huh?
y tiba2 lansi?
i got many buddies here
want me to pm them one by one izit...lol
...i've been on this thread for ages just that i've been bz with work lately so no time to show up on a regular basis
just coz u havent seen me around, doesnt mean im some random person pasting links around
check out the 1st page...my handle is there...no.55
what number are you?
dont randomly shoot off insults in the future
its not very polite k kiddo?...

p.s. guys...recent milage record: 13.87km/L!

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Added on August 5, 2010, 12:51 pmi suggest you get a strobe light to do this
incase you turn a little too much, wont have any way to get the angle back



i agree with you that you should change old hardened hoses
old hoses have the tendancy to fail and when one does fail (its not IF,...but rather WHEN ) and say you are cruising on the highway at 110kmh, in a minute or two your engine block temp will start to rise...a minute or so later, your engine will most likely seize
when this happens, you kill your pistons and your cylinders
possibly break a conrod or two and even bend your crank shaft
worst case scenario, u even crack your cylinder head and chip the block
so for a few bucks, you might as well change the hoses

but what tham said is also correct
there will be some crap on the metal parts when the hose is removed
when you go to buy your hoses, get some high temp silicone gasket maker (red silicone)
after you pull off the hoses, use a SMALL BRASS wire brush (its softer than steel brush) to brush the metal and clean off any gunk stuck on
u can use a flat screwdriver or testpen VERY GENTLY to pick of stubbourn bits
its only cast alloy and it scratches very easily
a bad scratch will result in a leak path which will only get worse
after its nice and clean, wipe it off with a dry cloth
next, get the hose you want to fix ready
smear some red silicone all around the metal (less than 1mm...just a thin layer) and for the full length
leave a bit more around last bit towards the tip (3 or 4mm?)
now put the hose on
the hose should push the excess silicone down (always remember to have your jubliee clips on the hose so you dont have to pull out the hose again)
once the hose is in place and you have check to see that the other end is in the right position (if not twist the hose a bit till its just right), tighten the jubliee clip to about 95%
wipe away any access silicone to make it neat
do this for all your tubes and then leave them for about 30minutes for the silicone to set
then go back and tighten the last 5% (its basically 1/8 of a turn)
the silicone should fill in all the pits and holes (if any) and let you have a good solid seal until your next change

never loosen the jubliee clips unless you have to, in which case you will have to clean it up with the brush etc again and reapply the silicone
if you forget to put in a jubliee clip and have to pull out the hose again, reapply the layer of silicone before refitting the tube

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Aug 5 2010, 02:24 PM

i get 11.8 - 12.4 normally
lately w careful driving get 13.87 lor

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Added on August 6, 2010, 11:48 pm
i am sorry...i m anti-iklan actually ......that why that not related in forum like some one promoting item in wrong place and wrong time......i have history in the past.at that time im 20 minutes after arguing with my girlfrind
...im so sorry 1 more time.....

[/quote]


no worries bro...apology accepted

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Added on August 7, 2010, 2:21 pmlarger engine does not mean worse efficiency
the 1.3 is actually underpowered
so we'll be driving not in the best power zone
translation: we'll have to press very hard to get pickup
result: lousy efficiency

then 1.8 would be the best if it can be found...1.5 aint that bad either

my record for 1.3 is 13.87km/L...but thats rare
usual is 11.8-12.5 or thereabouts

my dad's and bro's 1.5 can get about 14-15km/L without too much effort

i've driven a ford falcon 4.0L
that easily gets 12.5km/L...full booth, 4 persons in the car

the reason is with the more powerful cars, the power band starts lower down
so when we press lightly, already can get power so we wont press hard and just be dumping fuel into the carb for no reason

for best efficiency, a saga should have a 1.6 - 1.8L engine

but proton dumasses dont do that coz they are doing niche marketing
the saga must have a 1.3 so it doesnt compete with the waja
the waja must have a 1.6 so it doesnt compete with the perdana...and so forth
by right, a waja should have nothing less than a 1.8...2.0 would be nice
and a perdana should be running a 2.0 - 2.4L
efficiencies will be much better and the driving experience miles from what we are experiencing now

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Aug 7 2010, 02:21 PM

2011/2012

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Added on August 8, 2010, 11:30 pmif look at the back of the radiator, its at the bottom right i think
look for a wire going the bottom of the radiator
pull it out and check if its 1 or 2 pins
there are two types
get the japan one
its a bit hard to find but more reliable
less than rm30
the malaysian one is 10-15bucks
but not that good
its easily a DIY job all you need is an open end spanner that fits the sensor

its maybe a 10minute job at the most
advised to do it in the morning once the engine has cooled down totally
open the radiator cap to check that pressure is zero
THEN CLOSE THE CAP BACK FULLY as this will minimize fluid loss
know where the sensor is
pull out the wires when leaning over the top
it uses a plastic socket thinggy
get under the car and locate the sensor
get the spanner onto it and crack it lose
have the new sensor ready and make sure the gasket is on and the threads are clean
once the old sensor on the radiator is hand lose, it will start to drip a bit
remove the spanner and start to unscrew it...make sure you are holding it in place so that it doesnt fall off once the last thread is past
once its totally unscrewed, quickly remove it and stop the hole with your thumb
get the new sensor into place with your other hand and swap it into place from your thumb and screw it in
you will maybe lose 50ml of fluid
make sure you dont force the threads to avoid damaging them
screw the new sensor in until it is hand tight
use the spanner to tighten it maybe a 1/4 turn more...cukup rasa
then plug in the wire(s)
now open the radiator cap and top up the water as required
and you are done

no more than 10 minutes
(speaking from experience)

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Aug 8 2010, 11:30 PM

ini exchange program ni...good idea wor...swap parts with fellow members
no need buy new
each pay installation cost only
now, everybody can try
hehe

wife swap?...i think on one of those reality tv shows got d rite?...u go register lar...maybe the let u