fixd

dats mean, i cannot change from 10w-40 to 10w-30?

I am more worried about the 20 grade, because that's what my engine is exposed for long term.

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I quickly changed the engine oil, back to Liqui-Moly, tappet is quieter again. But I think I definitely have caused some wear from previous oil.

There is absolutely no problem changing from mineral to semi or to fully synthetic or the other way around.

If i recall correctly, he mentioned it was more than 100,000 km already.

not true.
if you're only +/- xw10 from manufacturer specifications, it should be ok and there should be no risk of engine harm/engine oil consumption (unless you got turbo/high rev or long distance for very long periods very frequently but that's a different story already)

also LM semi syn MOS2 is 10w, unless you're on the full synthetic?

also, regardless of good grade engine oil, one should service accordingly to car manufacturer/original specifications. eg: proton iswara is every 5k km, you put in rm300+ of full synthetic also, ideally you should oci at 5k km, not 10k or 20k km.

as the amount of engine oil capacity/oil sump plays a role in OCI period as well.
think of engine oil as water (filtered/longkang water as good/bad engine oil), and your engine/oil sump as a bucket. how much dirt (carbon/contaminants) your bucket can hold also depends on its size, while secondary factor would be the quality of your engine oil, obviously longkang water can hold shit worth of dirt because it is already dirty to begin with.

any review on JTX1000? Kancil 660 user here

actually i'm a noob when it comes to engine oil so any suggestion of brand since i've normally use the one Perodua gave.

Question....Castrol Magnatec 10/40 on a kelisa...Aye or Nay? Any better EO that I can probably give a try on?

Kenapa wo?
Hmmm...I get mixed feedback actually, some say use 10/40 cuz its better for your engine, but coming to the viscosity some say too thick for your engine. Some say 10/30 not good cuz it does not really take care of your car.

Urs is fully synthetic ma...Kelisa if use full syn wont be good cuz too light viscosity. If not Castrol, use LM ok ka? Or as like below Q8. But LM and Q8 quite exp rite? cuz I bought my Castrol mtec 95 buxx. Also if ure saying about flashpoint n viscosity, 10/40 seems higher compared to 15/40 except when the SuS is 100 f

Thin oil ma...haha, thts y I wanna ask for feedbacks oso. Cuz many mechanic say no need fully syn. Semi is more thn good, some more 10/40 is what they say la. I take good care of my engine. Just did some repairs on the engine leakage a few months back. 700 gone wei... but worth it la. Now its all good and I actually changed my EO to the magnatec. Very smooth sound. But FC a little bit high cuz the guy told me its quite thick.

Those who uses LM and voltronic before
Anyone here can say which is better?

because the one told me/recommend me say that LM just bought the formula and produce
while voltronic has a lab
and price surely voltronic more expensive

This is just my 2cent about the range of oil that we use for our car....when i was reading it on the internet... The lower value indicate the viscosity of the oil during cold and higher value is viscosity during high temperature...reason why they use for example 0W30...is during cold country, during cold start to protect the parts or when using a brand new engine where the piston are still virgin...so its tighter... But as tear and wear begin pistons gets looser and thats when the mechanic will recommend 10/15W30 oils...this is regardless any brand there are...

Just my opinion...do correct me if my info is wrong...