I think most of them are follow the API grade to produce the EO, just some of the brand you will feel better is because of their attitude and skill to produce the EO..... And advertisement also will make you feel better in some times.... Of course QC on the quality of the oil is also very important.. Still the last point, no matter what brand you use, if the content is the original of the brand, it will not harm your engine... of course you have to choose the right spec for your car.

Agree with u

based on my experience,

Most famous lubricant oil company are very strict with the used on base oil. even from same group of base oil, there are a large gap in term of quality of the finished product. That why some big company, sell the product at higher price to cover the cost of raw material (not talking about marketing, selling brand n etc).

just my 2 cent..

Anyone heard about shenzo 5w30n ????
Wat u all think about it???
Good ??
Price range???

Don't worry, engine produced after 1980's are mostly running on roller rocker arm, including G13B and G15B from the first generation Proton Saga....

I supposed VTW = Valve Train Wear, am I right?

According to American Petroleum Institute's (API) Engine Oil Licensing and Certification System,

- The Valve Train Wear, or known as average cam wear under engine Sequence IVA Test (ASTM D6891);

1) API SJ (for 2001 or older gasoline engine) and API SL (for 2004 and older gasoline engine) specify not more than 120 micron of wear, comparing with;

2) API SM (for 2010 or older gasoline engine) and API SN (current) specify not more than 90 micron of wear....

Even though newer API standards call for lower phosphorus content (anti wear agent) due to catalytic converter preservation, It does not allow more wear to take place, especially valve train wear.... With the help of new additive technology, API SN and SM must resist wear better than API SJ and SL which has higher content of phosphorus as anti wear agent...

For your infomation, current additive technology has enable the cam wear to be reduced down to 30 micron.

i knew it to produce SN grade, the cost is cheaper than SM grade ..
but among upgraded oil maker , selling price much higher than SM, fact the production cost is cheaper!
i still kept use SM grade despite the criteria of SN is better.
although SN control their VTW well below SM grade, but i keep observe on it. because i believe SN is develop for EU/USA car which are using roller cam compare to japanese flat cam 

in term of save fuel , regardless of city or highway,  i always 0W20. run for 10,000 km - 15,000 km.

but not to forget, energy conserving SN (GF-5) is better if compare to SM grade( GF-4 ). with same SAE grade

can anyone suggest me eo for myvi 1.3 80000 mileage  change. Looking for torco or liquid moly either ss/fs. Thanx

this Traxon got 4 litres bottle and a bucket of 20litres.....as far as i read on the technical datasheet, yes..support GL-4

sarjantulang

anyone used amoil 10-40?

???

given two oils

RM95 vtec lev Semi 5w-30  or RM120 Semi 10w-40
for Hcity vtec. daily drive. spirited driving, high rev. cold start

which wud u choose?

my perception is with the first. cuz 5w is a smoother oil than 10w, cheaper n  light weighted at -30.

my readings at internet has more or less aware me that we do not need -40 on reasons such as, we dont need thicker weight -40 to protect high rev. the high rev we do are not sustained over a long period of time but merely boost n whims that -30 is sufficiently can protect also.

secondly, when higher rev, n cause high temperature, we need thinner oil that can more fluid around the pistons so the heat transfer is more efficient than thicker oil.

and also the thinner oil will always have more favorable to thicker oil because 90% of engine wear n tear comes from cold start where friction is the most...not when it is run at operating temperature, 30 n 40 wud have been same which the oil does not thin up anyway. that said, it is better to go with 5w n 30 the generally thinner oil.  among other reason -30 over -40.

i asking that question for other opinion as im concern of this because i almost could not get over the debate 30 vs 40 myself.

The brand I am using now Magna release the Webiste www.magnagama.com, But only chinese version available now... Product which sold in chinese is available in the webiste, of course product datasheet also available too...

Any one is driving Toyota Vios, no matter old and new model, which Viscosity of oil is best suit for this car? Example that car already drive 100K KM and not suitable to use Fully any more, is that 10W40 SEMI better or 10W30 in SEMI is better?

Proton Saga FL 1.3 auto

brand: Shell
model:10w40 ( Semi Synthetic)
price:RM110 ( Service Centre)
feedback: Nothing special, Car become heavier after 3k KM.

Brand: Petronas
Model: 10w40 (Semi Synthetic)
Price : RM115 (Service Centre
Feedback: Engine sound louder, no power during pickup and FC getting high.

Brand : Castrol
Model: 10w 40 (Semi Synthetic)
Price: RM 80
Feedback: Same like shell

Brand : Caltex
Model: 10w40 (Semi Synthetic)
Price: RM104
Feedback: Engine is very peaceful, smoother. Pickup is sightly improved,  FC is remain same

Incoming service is trying to get
Brand : Engine Up
Model: 5w40 (Fully Synthetic)
Anyone try this brand before?  Hope can get a good result btw my car is already 23K KM.

But this Engine Up 5w40 is come with API SN, ILSAC GF5. So i just thinking to give it a try, even the price is high.. cheers

---

Added on December 3, 2012, 12:22 pm
http://www.engineup.com.my/products.htm here is the information of it. Since this brand is still new in Malaysia, not much shop can get this oil.

http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2602009
This oil ok?  Previously service my myvi using 5-40 liqui moly.  But cant afford it anymore...

I'm now using Sumo engine oil. 15/50. Dunno how yet.

But this Engine Up 5w40 is come with API SN, ILSAC GF5. So i just thinking to give it a try, even the price is high.. cheers

Noop, im not so sure about this. Needed to do the research again and again before confirmed to use. According my last reply is means that the website list is out of date cant take it as reference.

And somemore also no ppl can give a answer and confirmation about they get approval or not.   

Just forget about Engine Up here bro, i dun wan occur argument while topic is for sharing purpose... Thanks   

yeah...true sir.....this is the proof: Mix using of mineral, semi, fully synthetic



after 3 years ++ using HDEO and sometimes PCMO in my SAGA BLM...open it coz need to service the cover head....got minor leaking....open and snap...

sarjantulang

TBN is a bit on the low side, and i don't see HTHS numbers