So do I... Since on my learning, Diesel engine need TBN 6-8, because diesel content sulfer compare to Petrol... Diesel engine oil content enough additive TBN to balance the Sulfer in diesel oil but Petrol noneed it... If use Diesel engine oil in Petrol Engine, you will get more useless TBN and I think it will harm the Petrol Engine... Correct me if I am wrong.

You are using Diesel Engine Specified Engine oil for your car? You car is Diesel engine or Petrol Engine?

I think it is because it is a Multigrade Engine oil, so it need TBN content. Correct me if I am wrong.

Many of those people know nothing and never read the car manual either. So instead, I pick up the car manual and the manual said to use 10W30. Personally, I would rather trust the car manual than those people.

Assuming.....

Synthetic Base Oil last 100,000-km.

Additives last 10,000 km.

When do you change engine oil?

There is your answer as to which factor determines when to change engine oil

as salam,
either 5000km,10000km,15000km or even 20000km OCI, all are depend on what type of base oil been use by manufacturer.....the rule is simple....the pure the base oil, the better the oil retain it fresh property...

also depend from where is the additive package come from??the good the additive package, the better the engine oil..
last time using synthetic blend one, i manage to get 17000km....so i sending the oil for UOA(via my sifu)....and the result was unbelievable...the oil still can be use actually, the VI not degrade so much, the TBN also in good number, the viscosity/grade is not degrade so much....
what are your engine oil base oil purity?? 

sarjantulang

Here is real life fact.

In practically all real life situation, the lifespan of additives is almost ALWAYS much much shorter than Base Oil lifespan. In other word, the lifespan of Base Oil never comes into play when one determine OCI.

That is why one can actually recycle the Base Oil. Take the used engine oil and remove off all the impurities etc, you will still ended up with usable Base Oil. This is proof that Base Oil can last far far far longer than Additives.

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Added on August 14, 2012, 4:04 pm

If I am not mistaken, what they did is run UOA and then top up the required additives. Again proving additives has far more influence on when you need to change engine oil, not type of base oil. Of course we are not talking about Cap Ayam brand oil.

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Added on August 14, 2012, 4:06 pmsay

Not on Proton but on intercooled turbo charged diesel engine. Manual said 10,000-km but have occasionally went as far as 15,000-km (ya, engine was sluggish so really have to change) because no time to change. Engine still fine now at 200,000-km on odometer but to be fair, it's mainly for long distance driving. Of course using very good quality Mineral oil, no Cap Ayam brand.

That is why, based on our experience, we see no need for expensive Fully Synthetic. We strongly believe if one stick to manufacturer's OCI using good quality Mineral of correct grade/viscosity, there should be no problem. Not even the Protons. I don't know about the BMW or Ferrari because we never have those.

Does anyone use this oil, Fast Power Oil?

Fast Power Oil

See the demo to believe. Bumiputra maker. FC is better. Got power and smooth engine.

LUBRIZOL is quite common and most of the oil manufacture is using this company's additive... The Oil I am using now also using a lot of additive from LUBRIZOL.

hi buddies, wanna ask whether myvi engine (2009) can use 10W40 oil? tq

if perodua engine oil gold is 5W30, but not sure can buy from SC or not

amsoil good for BLM?got help preserve better fuel economy?

yup, but perodua oil only rm86, i think the brands u mentioned r more expensive right?

Assuming it's 5 liter pack, that translate to RM43 per liter.

On the other hand, the excellent Delo 400 15W40 works better in my car only cost RM11 per liter in 18 liter packing. I am a happy man.

i think is only 4 liter bottle..

Try delo 400 in 200 liter drum, you will see much better price

0W30 is not for high performance car la bro, on NA is most best.
high performance like force induction can't use start with 0W oil.

Any reason why?

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Added on August 23, 2012, 1:47 pm
haha. all belong to my boss.. XD.. 10W30 nowdays categorized as semi or mineral .. if sum1 come up 10W30 FS, he's the pioneer.

this is also one of marketing strategy in malaysia, or else you can't make any business.
i also can say that our malaysian is not so interesting to get more knowledge about engine oil

new japan car also flat teppet. but there is some other additive to reduce the valvetrain wear. of course ZDDP for flat teppet is essential. but API is more on EU. not for asian. but it's well known globally.

mine still stick on SM. no SN for me.

Ahh, got fren to talk to about progressive cavity and piston pumps

Mostly use PC pumps with a constant fluid barrier so that we may extract delicious life giving methane gas.

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Added on August 23, 2012, 9:53 pm

Not sure if there are online links to most of what I say.

Most of it was gleamed from discussions with boffins from the CEEFC, a few of my mates doing PhDs in ultralean combustion and hydrogen injected fuels and of course, experience from working with a lot of mechanical systems as my dayjob as an engineer. From pumps, grease, lubrication, fitting and programming, I do a little bit of everything.

Also the solution to all lubrication issues is super additive enhanced Krytox. Trust me this stuff is awesome. I use it for everything from firearms to door hinges. I sed they no make engine oil.

I think I already mentioned that the gerotor (PDP) oil pump due to its manufacturing tolerances may prefer a thickness of oil over others. But this generally depends on the design and many other considerations. A cheaper Gerotor with 4 teeth may need a significantly higher start up thickness to prevent premature wear than say a Nismo or Nitto oil pump with 12 teeth machined to 0.001" tolerance. I run a Tomei, so no issues

Plus during start up there is very little flow of oil into the turbo. At cold cranking temperature even at 0W, oil is far too thick to get into the journals, that's why all journals have an internal reservoir that keeps oil from the last start up in the journal. This holds the turbo enough till the oil is heated up enough to get in.

That's why turbos have a mechanism (either water based cooling or turbo timers) to ensure the oil doesn't "cake" due to heat so that the next start up will be smooth.

I could never understand why Proton say 10W30 is best for CFE engines. And not to use 5W30, 5W40, 5W50 which in my understanding, most likely to be Fully Synthetic. Anyone got an explanation for that?

To cut short the story. So it's correct to assume Proton/Lotus actually wanted 10w30 and not 5w30?

The higher %sulphated ash is better or lower?
Guys, can u plz help to clarify on this.

Thanks.