Given our temperatures in Malaysia, going to 0W-30 or 0W-40 or anything else is probably a waste. The larger the range of a given lubricant, the more polymer VIIs required to maintain that range, thus an oil change becomes more expensive. Plus going any thicker with a BorgWarner turbo of that size will lead to oil starvation of the turbo.

I'd definitely stay away from 5W40 and 5W50 for the Campro CFE. It's just the nature of the turbo charger and the oil channels. Anyone who's dumb enough to use those can pay out of their nose for a new journal bearing for all I care.

Because it can't get into the bearings. Try sucking up cement with a straw. It's not a question of synthetic or not, it's a question of raw centipoise. Essentially you can't get the oil between the Journal and the sleeve to the function of viscosity increasing surface tension and cohesion to level where it can't squeeze into the journals.

That and BECAUSE MAGIC!

I think I already mentioned that the gerotor (PDP) oil pump due to its manufacturing tolerances may prefer a thickness of oil over others. But this generally depends on the design and many other considerations. A cheaper Gerotor with 4 teeth may need a significantly higher start up thickness to prevent premature wear than say a Nismo or Nitto oil pump with 12 teeth machined to 0.001" tolerance. I run a Tomei, so no issues

Plus during start up there is very little flow of oil into the turbo. At cold cranking temperature even at 0W, oil is far too thick to get into the journals, that's why all journals have an internal reservoir that keeps oil from the last start up in the journal. This holds the turbo enough till the oil is heated up enough to get in.

That's why turbos have a mechanism (either water based cooling or turbo timers) to ensure the oil doesn't "cake" due to heat so that the next start up will be smooth.

Brother, he is not staying in Malaysia, he might not know how's our environment and how's our financial.....

thus nowdays FS become a trend. not so rely on ambient temp. 300V or Royal Purple that's far beyond malaysian budget. can go higher mileage since nowdays ppl getting more busier

]i know part of the story ..and was all happened during the engine R&D stage

Gearbox is using Gear Oil, not using Engine oil, normally Manual Gearbox using Grade 85W90. And change every 40000KM mileage.

Engine oil really can be use in Gear Box? I think the Viscosity is too thin for a gear box, and the additive which use to protect the gear box is not include in the engine oil... since those additive will make a lot of carbon while meet hot environment.... Better ask foremen regarding this.. Of course if the car manual book written that engine allow to be use, should be not a problem then.

after reading a few page..

either the EO is mineral or semi syn or fully syn. the different come from the base oil that were used.
The additive used to claims of API/ACEA n etc and also the SAE grade

I think most of them are follow the API grade to produce the EO, just some of the brand you will feel better is because of their attitude and skill to produce the EO..... And advertisement also will make you feel better in some times.... Of course QC on the quality of the oil is also very important.. Still the last point, no matter what brand you use, if the content is the original of the brand, it will not harm your engine... of course you have to choose the right spec for your car.

not sure will use 15w50 or not. Depends on situation.
If engine feels OK, I shall remain use 10w40.
If it becomes noisier and noisier, I'll change to 15w50 at once.

I don't get you.
Do you mean that 15w50 must be a fully syn oil ? or are you telling me better get fully syn instead of semi syn ?

AFAIK,

the oil i'm using meant to Extended Drain Interval....
by using good TBN number of EO + good additive package, it will clean your engine and runs your engine smoother...and plus with pure base oil, the oil freshness will last longer..

and also find a good oil filter that can last longer...

my last UOA with synthetic blend engine oil(after more than 15000km), it's still has around 40% of freshness oil and still can be use...so again, depend on what brand of oil you're using...

just my 34.5sen..

sarjantulang

hmm...so full syn is better than semi. one more thing. is it all true that Full syn can last longer (standard being 10k KM that people say) or is it just rumours?

 

Synthetic base oil makers and synthetic lubricants makers will be very sad reading your opinion....  

Actually, there are differences....

1) Temperature resistance (low VI): Regardless of how new/fresh the mineral oil in your engine, due to its nature of lower temperature resistance, it will provide less protection to engine moving parts...

2) Low saturation: Mineral base oil has higher content of volatile substances which are detrimental to the performance of the engine oil in terms of wear protection, oxidation resistance, corrosion control, shear stability and etc.....

In my opinion, shortening OCI for mineral oil might improve engine protection, but it would not be able to totally replicate engine protection at par with synthetic oil...

Caltex Delo 400 is formulated with ISOSYN base oil....

http://www.caltex.com/my/products-and-serv...ubricants/delo/

What is ISOSYN?

The iso-syn method you referred to is the patented refining process that is used by Chevron (Caltex) to produce its base oils. This process is a hydrocracking process that consists of the following steps

The first step in this process is atmospheric and
vacuum distillation.

The second step in the process is severe
Hydrocracking to remove the majority of
sulfur, nitrogen and polar compounds and
saturate most of the aromatic and naphthenic
compounds that may be present.

The next step is Hydroisomerization which
is also known as Isodewaxing.

The Isodewaxing process which is patented by
Chevron takes n-paraffins and other molecules
with waxy side chains and converts them
into isomerized branched paraffinic
molecules (isoparaffins).

The Isodewaxing process can also use wax produced
by solvent dewaxing as one of its feedstocks.

The third step is severe hydrofinishing which is
used to remove any remaining sulfur,
nitrogen, polar compounds and unsaturated
molecules.

The final step is atmospheric and vacuum distillation to produce the desired viscosity grades.

This process produces Group III UCBO base oils
that have viscosity indexes ranging from 120 to
over 140.

API Group III base oil is generally marketed as Synthetic....

Caltex Delo 400 might not be blended with 100% ISOSYN base oil but it is definitely not full Group I mineral oil, I would say it should be categorized as at least Semi -Synthetic....

It is known as oil consumption / evaporation, it is quite normal..... but a good quality engine oil will evaporate less than a lower quality one...

I am using fully synthetic multigrade gear oil (75W-140) for my Kancil gear box.
The seller said it can be use on any type of cars. So far after 3 months, everything is fine and smooth.

The front number 75 - means the oil has viscosity similar to a SAE70 single grade oil at room temperature.
and the back number 140 means - viscosity of SAE140 single grade oil at high temperature (100 degree Celsius)
even with the number SAE140, the oil's viscosity at high temperature is still lower than SAE70 at room temperature.
That's why it is the front number that determine the highest viscosity.
And the bigger the different between the 1st number and the 2nd number the better the quality of the gear oil.

So, gear oil with 75W-140 is a lot better than gear oil 80W-90
This is the fully synthetic gear oil I am using: (cost about RM120 per 2 liter )


Below is an example of a 80W-90 mineral gear oil:
(cost about RM25 per liter)

mainly because:
- less engine cranking
- more time for the alternator to charge the battery to reduce car battery load
- ideal engine operating temperature means better spark plug "automated" cleaning (too cold and it would have bad carbon fouling from your fuel/combustion wastes)

and if you're really that obsessed in engine protection, you'd probably already looked up enough relevant info yourself, and probably already using full synthetic boutique/performance branded engine oil that cost over rm250-300+ per 4 liters.