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 ~**Proton CPS Tribe V7**~, >Power That Means Business<

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sphiroth
post May 11 2010, 11:40 AM

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Let me list down all the upgrades I've done for future reference. brows.gif

Engine: K&N Drop-in Airfilter, Mythology LCP, Works ACP, Works AFPR, SAFC2, Kweng 4-2-1 header+muffler+bullet (ori piping)
Transmission: RACE Shortshift
Suspension: R3 suspension
Tyres & Wheel: Taiwan 16" + Yokohama A-Drive R1 205/50/16
Exterior: Skirting + diffuser

Attached Image
Attached Image

This post has been edited by sphiroth: May 11 2010, 03:19 PM
sphiroth
post May 11 2010, 01:22 PM

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QUOTE(ezwann @ May 11 2010, 11:53 AM)
You guys can check here

ULTRA RACING SAFETY ASPECT

". As you can see from the comparison photo, the geometry of the brackets hasn't compromised chassis as many sceptics thought it would"
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I think there must be a good reason why Japanese tuner (Cusco, Ralliart, Spoon, Mines etc) only produce 2 point strut bar. whistling.gif

QUOTE(ezwann @ May 11 2010, 12:05 PM)
you forgot kweng cap ayam extractor  cool.gif
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Editted. Thanks. laugh.gif
sphiroth
post May 11 2010, 02:11 PM

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QUOTE(zenwarlord @ May 11 2010, 01:55 PM)
When u wanna blacken ur radiator grille?
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Done that using CF sticker already. That not the latest picture. laugh.gif
sphiroth
post May 11 2010, 03:20 PM

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QUOTE(zenwarlord @ May 11 2010, 02:19 PM)
ahhh....i know u will do it, but never knows done before my asking  biggrin.gif
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Post updated with new picture... brows.gif
sphiroth
post May 11 2010, 05:47 PM

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QUOTE(jctasoga @ May 11 2010, 05:30 PM)
ever thought of putting straight 2 white racing stripes from top to bottom of car? like the ford tdci or ford mustangs. i think it will look awesome on our wajas.
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Have thought of it but too striking. Unless after putting the stripes whole car is coated with thin layer of black to make it less visible like this.

user posted image
sphiroth
post May 11 2010, 06:09 PM

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QUOTE(singchaii @ May 11 2010, 05:42 PM)
I get your points.. If you wanna try zenden, why don't get your try on c-tech? Ultra racing still got 2 point...

But on the Q3 you mentioned, I quite confuse.. If the car is in extreme collision, why we still need to protect the chasis?Izit we need to protect the passenger inside the cabin compare with the chasis? While the bar can use to save the impact going into the cabin. Furthermore, the bar hard to make the chasis to deform or twiss because the chasis is more hard 100 times compare with the bar. if the bar can be break under certain pressure impact, i believe it can twist also when the chasis is moving. So if the bar is twist, how can it improve the handling curing cornering?
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The 3 point is dangerous in frontal accident since the 3rd point which connected to the firewall will definitely intrude the cabin through the dashboard and hit the occupant.

The chassis are designed to flex a little for comfort and also avoid strained to the metal. Too much strained may cause something to break because of fatigue since its not designed for that.

Anyway, just follow what other international reputable tuner develop (2 point strut bar) and it should be fine.

sphiroth
post May 11 2010, 11:54 PM

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QUOTE(loong2020 @ May 11 2010, 10:43 PM)
shocking.gif ..im using 3point front & rear strut bars by UR.....should i take it off?...and by taking off the ride should be more smoother and not stiff rite??
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As long as you ok with it, just let it be. Different person got different preference. nod.gif
sphiroth
post May 11 2010, 11:56 PM

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QUOTE(loong2020 @ May 11 2010, 10:43 PM)
shocking.gif ..im using 3point front & rear strut bars by UR.....should i take it off?...and by taking off the ride should be more smoother and not stiff rite??
*
As long as you ok with it, just let it be. Different person got different preference. nod.gif


Added on May 11, 2010, 11:57 pm
QUOTE(loong2020 @ May 11 2010, 10:43 PM)
shocking.gif ..im using 3point front & rear strut bars by UR.....should i take it off?...and by taking off the ride should be more smoother and not stiff rite??
*
As long as you ok with it, just let it be. Different person got different preference. nod.gif

This post has been edited by sphiroth: May 11 2010, 11:57 PM
sphiroth
post May 12 2010, 09:27 AM

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QUOTE(voon25 @ May 12 2010, 12:21 AM)
guys..

Urs cps performs better after 3000km as stated in the manual book ?

Currently done only 300km, torque seems low. Car only move when RPM >1000, everthing seems 'tight'. Can't wait to rev after 1000km, but no time to drive........
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Just rev it as much as you want. I redline just after going out of the PE branch main gate. brows.gif
sphiroth
post May 12 2010, 12:24 PM

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QUOTE(kcng @ May 12 2010, 12:15 PM)
if it is the W208 CLK 2.0 N/A, then yes u have a chance...
anything higher then the 2.0 N/A, u will smell smoke straight away...

if it is the W209 CLK, sorry u will smell smoke straight away...
smile.gif

so which CLK are u talking about?
tongue.gif
i would assume its the w208 CLK 2.0 N/A.
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Another question is: is it a real CLK or just a wannabe... hmm.gif laugh.gif
sphiroth
post May 12 2010, 06:07 PM

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Tomorrow will go to speedworks to tune my car. whistling.gif
sphiroth
post May 12 2010, 06:19 PM

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QUOTE(singchaii @ May 12 2010, 06:14 PM)
haha.. Save the tune money, get e-manage then baru tune. XD
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Actually I want to dial my ACP and set the AFPR optimally also. After this, will take a break in modding for a while (until next year). nod.gif
sphiroth
post May 13 2010, 11:37 PM

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QUOTE(nabelon @ May 13 2010, 10:34 PM)
Hello cps brothers. I'm currently using SagaBLM. My wife is using Kancil 660. Due to some income increment, I'm thinking of selling of my wife's car and getting another vehicle.

In my mind is another small car, but somehow I believe that if I give my wife my BLM, maybe I could in turn get myself any of the CPS powered Proton excluding Exora.

My BLM is a manual one, top speed around 185kmh. Currently satisfied with the performance except that the NVH is lousy. Would upgrading to CPS fulfill my desire for speed + comfort ?
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brows.gif

sphiroth
post May 14 2010, 06:17 PM

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QUOTE(TripleJ104 @ May 14 2010, 09:01 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Power.... thumbup.gif  flex.gif  rclxms.gif

Your top speed?
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Still 180.

QUOTE(zenwarlord @ May 14 2010, 10:39 AM)
Done all the mod?
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This was before I dial in my cam pulley at Powerzone. Now my timing is retard by 4 degrees to pull the powerband to the high rev and hopefully the torque will not drop after 5.5k rpm. But unlucky for me, the dyno at Powerzone broke down so no dyno were done.
sphiroth
post May 15 2010, 11:18 PM

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QUOTE(Azuma-kun @ May 15 2010, 10:44 PM)
mana orang pigi? so quiet today
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Malam minggu la. Enjoy laugh.gif
sphiroth
post May 15 2010, 11:55 PM

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QUOTE(Azuma-kun @ May 15 2010, 11:32 PM)
Aku malam minggu duk rumah jer cry.gif
Sedih sial takde life doh.gif
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Tgk la F1, Liga Super dan FA Cup Final. thumbup.gif
sphiroth
post May 16 2010, 09:08 AM

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QUOTE(pearjar @ May 16 2010, 07:56 AM)
Lor.. Broke ler pulak.. So no new setting for AFR? sad.gif
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No. unsure.gif
sphiroth
post May 16 2010, 10:08 PM

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QUOTE(mrl @ May 16 2010, 08:56 PM)
bulk BOT??? i'm suggesting bulk MIVEC transplant also...  doh.gif laugh.gif
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Nothing beats the feeling when turbo kicks-in. brows.gif
sphiroth
post May 16 2010, 11:47 PM

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QUOTE(kobe10 @ May 16 2010, 11:19 PM)
Yeah Yeah!!! Bulk MIVEC transplant. Hahaha.. If just need to additional top up around 1 or 2 k after selling CPS, i will do that. If CPS on the street can sapu old style CLK, imagine what a mod mivec can do. OMG!!! must be dreaming!!!
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Mod NA is not cheap. Mod a variable lift system such as vtec and mivec is more even expensive. If you looking for power, turbo is the eay to go. More value (hp) for money. brows.gif
sphiroth
post May 17 2010, 11:02 AM

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Just done 300km+ highway drive with my cam timing retarded by 4 degrees. Now the 4-7k rpm has better acceleration without any noticeable loss at lower rpm (maybe because I seldom drive/cruise below 3.6k rpm).

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