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 The suiting thread v2

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kotmj
post Sep 11 2011, 01:58 AM

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too late


Added on September 11, 2011, 2:03 amactually the armholes are pretty high. they are not low.


Added on September 11, 2011, 2:09 amWow, the fitter in this vid is the best! I know it is an Indian shop and all, but this sort of first fitting many dream of and never get.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zLz1pkjxYys&feature=related

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 11 2011, 02:09 AM
kotmj
post Sep 11 2011, 07:17 PM

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QUOTE(dodoavnt @ Sep 11 2011, 04:13 AM)
Yes, I get the whole commercial thing.. but i'm asking if it's something you (or any pro suit-ers) would highly recommend?
*
I can obviously only recommend one RTW brand over another based on construction and materials. In this aspect Oxxford is best-in-industry.

Fit is of course very individual and nobody can recommend a brand's fit without intimately knowing your proportions and being very intimate with the brand's typical cut.
kotmj
post Sep 12 2011, 12:41 AM

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Ideal armhole height: One measures the armpit level with a measuring tape then add a certain amount. 2 cm is the minimum to add.

But the armhole is as much about geometry as about height. It needs to be scooped to clear the shoulder joint. Every jacket should have an armhole shape dictated by the customer's body.

Re: sleeve rotation. This is such common knowledge even otherwise clueless SF fan cheongs know this.

The weight of cloth is given in either ounces per square yard or grams per square meter. Super 100 or 150 or 200 refer to the diameter of the individual wool fiber that make up the cloth. Since there is not a single strand of wool in that jacket using Super whatever to describe it is quite embarrassing. One says "that is a 8 oz cloth" or "that is a heavy 12 oz linen" to describe the weight of cloth. Super whatever refers to how soft and fine the cloth feels, as in, "Dude, you should try sliding that Super 220 back and forth on your bare scrotum. The last time someone did that he spent 10 minutes in the fitting room and came out wiping the jacket with a tissue."
kotmj
post Sep 13 2011, 02:42 PM

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The jacket is too short by 1.5" all around. It is already very waisted, I would not suppress any further.

They actually managed to more or less clean up the sleeves.

The armholes are quite low.

If they lengthen the jacket it will actually turn out reasonably well. It will be a suit with considerable visual impact, though it will never be something a good tailor would be particularly proud of.


Added on September 13, 2011, 2:43 pm
QUOTE(MeToo @ Sep 13 2011, 02:32 PM)
Sure thing mate! Another critical pair of eye would be appreciated.

ps : um... is it that bad?!
*
All he wants to do is to grope you.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 13 2011, 02:43 PM
kotmj
post Sep 14 2011, 02:49 PM

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Something major is about to happen to the sartorial world...

(bumi bergempar)

...that's why it's raining so hard now ... the sign of rebirth...
kotmj
post Sep 15 2011, 12:07 AM

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something vaguely like that

will ask my public relations manager to make official press release when its official
kotmj
post Sep 15 2011, 07:22 PM

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put them in your wife's handbag
kotmj
post Sep 15 2011, 07:53 PM

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my phone is on discrete most of the time. i answer calls & sms' in batches when i have nothing to do.
kotmj
post Sep 15 2011, 11:40 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Sep 15 2011, 08:42 PM)
i have a mystery pocket for my phone. My keys are hung along the waistband by six unused suspender buttons. That way I can carry 6 bunches of keys in my pants.
*
That mystery pocket is the one on the inner waistband that hangs next to your cock and where you have to push the hp out as though you were scratching a crotch itch?


Added on September 16, 2011, 2:34 amSaadi Gadaffi, my new role model

That looks like a French suit
user posted image

Just so you know who the boss is
user posted image

I think Loro Piana
user posted image

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 16 2011, 02:34 AM
kotmj
post Sep 17 2011, 12:11 AM

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If any of you feel the earth shake even a little tomorrow you will know it is official.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 17 2011, 12:48 PM
kotmj
post Sep 17 2011, 12:50 PM

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It's official.

Look at the words below my avatar.
kotmj
post Sep 17 2011, 01:34 PM

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Aiyah, I suspected so much. One of these days I need to move to a more exclusive place to keep my distance from the lower classes...
kotmj
post Sep 17 2011, 05:30 PM

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That is the ciplak version of the City of Anggerik.

I bought another pair of Shozaburo to "pai sifu" next week when I start...

Attached Image

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 17 2011, 06:34 PM
kotmj
post Sep 17 2011, 08:07 PM

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It was actually a most interesting experience this morning. Those who want the full story have to suck me, but here is the teaser version:

I was led up a flight of stairs... then I entered a room not unlike what you see of WWChan except that this room has 20 industrial sewing machines. Lining two sides of the room were the workbenches. On the workbences were steam irons, and all manner of little hams and big hams and medium hams of all shapes.

The sifu said he shares the workshop with a partner of his, so most of the machines are used by the partner's side of the operation.

Another old sifu was drafting a pattern. There was a young woman (not that hot ~6.5) sewing. There was a young man (20 years old?) who is apprenticing full time, also sewing. There were 2 or 3 Banglas on the partner's side. The sifu said to show him TG#4. He was impressed.

I thought I would surprise the sifu by showing him my Gütermann gimp which is pretty close to Unobtanium, but he seemed decidedly unimpressed. He took out a mooncake box and in it were 4 spools of Gütermann gimp. Ma chau hai. He showed me needles -- the perfect ones. He said he stocked up on them on his last trip to London a few months back.

I thought I would impress him with my Shozaburo, but he uses exclusively Shozaburos himself and has 3 pairs. But they were all very old and worn away from too much sharpening.

I showed him the super canvas I bought in KL. He said it is junk. What? He brought me a jacket he is making for an upscale Manhattan tailor and asked me to feel the softness. He pointed to a humongous roll of canvas he said he imported himself.

I'm telling too much already. Must keep quiet. Trade secrets, etc.
kotmj
post Sep 17 2011, 08:33 PM

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I'd rather just take a pic of his buttonholes and make you weep.
kotmj
post Sep 19 2011, 12:26 AM

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--

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 19 2011, 08:10 AM
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post Sep 19 2011, 12:36 AM

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kotmj
post Sep 19 2011, 05:47 PM

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lei chau seong
kotmj
post Sep 20 2011, 02:39 PM

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Yes I will hire ravishingly beautiful girls (part-time college students) to service my customers in the shop. They will be dressed very tastefully (men's taste, not women's). Think Victoria's Secret.


Added on September 20, 2011, 3:06 pmI discovered a shop in KL that sells skins. Leather, but the whole piece. The price sounds quite reasonable too. They have several hundred types there. Thinking of making a leather holster for my Shozaburo.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 20 2011, 03:06 PM
kotmj
post Sep 21 2011, 10:26 PM

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Lokemui is coming to KL to do his internship, I wonder if anyone has warned him not to go out alone at night to 7/11 or wherever because of all the indonesian workers who go about in groups and who are very horny

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