I wonder what sort of misadventures Lokemui will have in KL. Looking forward to his stories.

Barathea is a tight twill weave. Not breathable, not stretchable. Choose something else or buy what shanecross bought from dugsdale.

I recommend you get 3.5 meters of this. It's a very good fresco.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-WOOL-WORSTED...=item519b16adaa

That SKM cloth is obviously high grade but who knows how it really is? That fresco OTOH I've seen up close in person.

Best choice would be just the jacket on skin. Preferably with hairy chest.

You should try RTW. Uniqlo, Zara, Topman and such.

Did you order the 8953?

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Added on September 29, 2011, 4:23 pm8937 & 8941 are both also interesting

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Added on September 29, 2011, 5:10 pmTime seems to be running out for terrorsquad. he may end up having to go this route...


This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 29 2011, 05:10 PM

I am very busy on saturdays, once upon a time i could still meet up for fitting sessions and for coffee and talk about ther semiconductor industry and dentistry but now I am a coatmaker's apprentice. I even have a wedding dinner to attend this saturday.

AL is not a great stylist. He's not even a particularly conscientious fitter. As I've written in my sticky, Iris would be the best. If you use AL you need to have looked at a thousand bespoke suits and have a clear idea of how a great suit should look like.

Remember to take pics and MeToo and others will provide feedback for you to bring to your tailor.

SF is full of people who think they know something when they know nothing. You need to be able to discern the valid comments from those that are nonsense.

minnis fresco is for masochists. you should feel the cloth before you do anything crazy like buy a length. there is no cloth coarser than it.

If you bring pictures of specific elements of a suit, let's say of a patch pocket, or a particular way of making the inside facing, or of lapel roll, then there is a chance he can replicate these features. If you show him a pic and want him to replicate the general impression of the suit, it will never work. If you show him something from GQ and he actually manages to replicate that idiocy, you will regret he was successful because the suit will not be wearable.

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Added on September 30, 2011, 12:11 pmThis is before we consider the fact that a suit is as much about feel as about looks. Pics cannot convey how a suit feels on the wearer.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Sep 30 2011, 12:11 PM

I'm still learning how to make pockets.

Actually, f*** that. I think I'll apply for sole distributorship of Vanda in Malaysia and Brunei.

Have to rush to a wedding, but here are two jackets of the same material by the same cutter. One was cut for the father and one for the son. This is the cheapest sort of make by my sifu.

Father


Son


The son's jacket is about the most agressive waist suppression most tailors cut. I personally prefer more.

What do you mean by "the lapels were not padded"?

You see a lapel being padded at 0:18 in this vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlX9pcBOqT0

All fully canvassed jackets have padded lapels. The father and sons jackets I posted above do not. No fused jackets have their lapels padded. Regardless of tailor or price. (Except mine due to special request.)

The unpadded lapel is soft and floppy. The padded lapel has a great deal of memory and always wants to snap back to its position close to the chest.

The whole idea of high armholes is to enable movement, not restrict it.

Pretty sure Wardrobe's lapels are not padded, i.e. not pad stitched. I think they use a fusible hair+rayon canvas. Wardrobe has pretty good lapel roll, from what I recollect. Hugo Boss has voluptuous roll but they are not padded either.

This is the real article:

That KFW is very good. The ALT is too wasp-like. Something between the KFW and ALT is the ideal waist supression.

The KFW does not have properly fitted sleeves. This is the cause of the bunching near the armpits. The balance though is perfect.

The pants are also not ideally fitted, but it isn't so bad. Needs to have back balance reduced.

"Puckering" is caused by dropped right shoulder and hips which jut out to one side. But it's rather minor here in the general scheme of things. Especially after all the bad cases we were asked to look at, the pics in the previous few pages are surprisingly good.

rellik needs shoulder extension and a roomier coat because his body is so thin relative to his head. the tailored jacket is the only garment with a structure, and is therefore the only one which can compensate a little for these things. should make use of that potential.

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Added on October 10, 2011, 7:40 pmand of course we all know kfw's droopy lapels are straight from the misty past. i find that charming. not on my own jackets but it is good to know that such things are still being made for others.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Oct 10 2011, 07:46 PM