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 The suiting thread v2

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kotmj
post Nov 12 2010, 10:56 PM

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Almost perfect, PG...

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kotmj
post Nov 13 2010, 06:59 PM

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Well if he says RM900 and is unwilling to reduce it even when you walk out of the shop it means that is his standard price.

Binwani is RM800 before you add extras like working cuffs etc. Unknown tailors generally want RM600-RM700.

Lord's is RM1200. Bespoked is around there too for wool, cheaper for poly mixes.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Nov 13 2010, 09:51 PM
kotmj
post Nov 13 2010, 09:52 PM

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I just walked into Granoff.

They had a fashion show some weeks past and the suits can be fingered by potential customers. I took one of these off the rack: A three piece with a pink linen shirt. I placed in on the counter and began inspecting it while engaging in conversation with the pretty young Malay girl (cool down, Tan Sri, no point changing tailors over such a matter).

The jacket was very convincingly made. I would say it is the best I've seen of all tailors (for a fused construction).

The armholes were high (as high as AL's). It was very waisted, in a way that I like: a sharp nip. Even at that waisting the jacket hung well, the sleeves hung gracefully.

The pick stitching is done quietly, no high tension in the thread. The lining is attached to the jacket entirely by machine sewing, no hand work there. The buttonholes are entirely machine sewn. They are identical to what lanatir took pics of, and lanatir was mistaken. Even the lady there said they were machine sewn.

The jacket has this very perfect, very regular look to it. Unlike AL's which has this pervasive organic-ness to it, where evevryhting seems to have been put together by hand (and with some haste), Granoff's jacket has a RTW quality about it. It was synthetically perfect.

But the jacket was rather stiff. The shoulder padding was not excessive.

They charge 1.2K if you bring your own cloth. I do not know if this includes extras like working cuffs. At this price, I would prefer them over Lord's.

Their shirts are factory made, probably the same factory as Lord's.
kotmj
post Nov 16 2010, 08:51 PM

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Wow f*** I finally get to see yfyf's face! So cute!

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Added on November 16, 2010, 8:56 pmf***. After so many years, so many saved pics of him.

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Added on November 16, 2010, 9:10 pmLokemui would you try to have your navy suit completed before I die? You still have some 60 years or so. Try to hurry.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Nov 16 2010, 09:10 PM
kotmj
post Nov 17 2010, 01:59 PM

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I think that is a lint remover.

Maomao's Liverano suit is incredible.
kotmj
post Nov 17 2010, 10:17 PM

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QUOTE(pinkrazr @ Nov 17 2010, 10:00 PM)
My fiance is looking for a tailor made suit for the wedding. One normal gray suit and one black tux.
We went to Bespoked today and they quoted about 2k for a suit. 

Apart from Bespoked, are there any more good tailors out there? I've read some ppl commenting about ALT, are they good?

And I have read some of the forumers here commenting about getting your own cloth would be much cheaper. But not sure what kind of material is good for a suit.

Care to give us some tips on how to choose a good tailor? and what to look out for?

TQ!
*
What do you think of this suit?

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This post has been edited by kotmj: Nov 17 2010, 10:19 PM
kotmj
post Nov 17 2010, 10:21 PM

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kotmj
post Nov 17 2010, 10:37 PM

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You should read this sticky on the front page written by this expert that everybody worships. There is a link there to an eBay shop (BritishFabrics) that sells English woolen cloths.

Jln TAR is very expensive and not very good. I no longer go there for anything.
kotmj
post Nov 17 2010, 10:53 PM

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What makes you think your feeling the materials will make any difference? When was the last time you touched wool? (Have you ever?)

Just choose something that conforms to your expectations on that eBay shop, post the link here and we shall see.

You can also try dropping by Granoff in The Gardens. They charge RM1.2K if you bring your own cloth. ALT charges RM900, but you are unlikely to get results like mine.
kotmj
post Nov 17 2010, 11:24 PM

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Few people know how to choose cloths. It is a very specific kind of skill, selecting cloths for classic men's suitings. It requires a vast amount of knowledge and experience.

You will probably end up with some polyester something with 3% cashmere fluff thrown in.
kotmj
post Nov 18 2010, 01:41 PM

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The jacket should definitely be less waisted in the back. The part at the lumbar curve should not collapse in. It should hang down vertically.

Talk to him about the divots in the sleeve heads. They should be smooth, not concave. He may have to increse the size of the sleeveheads.

Tell him to compensate for your left dropped shoulder such that the center back seam becomes plumb. He will resist, but you must insist.

Jacket can be 0.5" shorter.

Ask for another fitting.


Added on November 18, 2010, 1:43 pmTell him to make a horizontal pleat at the seat of the trousers. 0.5"-0.75". You have to call him otherwise the trousers will be done by the next fitting and nothing can be changed.


Added on November 18, 2010, 1:57 pmI would also lower the buttoning point 0.5"-0.75" to make it coincide with the waistline.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Nov 18 2010, 02:00 PM
kotmj
post Nov 18 2010, 08:46 PM

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Latest pink linen shirt.

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Swapped out the horn for gilt buttons...

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Added on November 18, 2010, 8:54 pm
QUOTE(netmatrix @ Nov 17 2010, 09:19 PM)
So u met the malay girl too eh? I think she is very cheerful and quite helpful. And Granoff made a good impression on me based on sales staff alone. Less can be said about some other shops.
*
Yes, very sweet girl. Lovely thing.


Added on November 18, 2010, 8:57 pm
QUOTE(shauno @ Nov 18 2010, 04:15 PM)
thanks alot! i mentioned the sleeve heads to himself, but he brushed it off as a WIP. will call him alter today to tell him about the changes. he also mentioned that my right shoulder drops more than the left and said he will fix that.. don't quite understand the trouser part though.. horizontal pleat?  rclxub.gif

also thought the sleeves are about 0.25" too long. you reckon?
*
Sleeves are perfect.

Difficult to explain trousers. Look at mine, especially the back of the legs. They should be smooth.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Nov 18 2010, 08:57 PM
kotmj
post Nov 19 2010, 01:35 PM

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i think shirt is alt standard spec. but cloth and thread are kotmj exclusives.


Added on November 19, 2010, 1:53 pm
QUOTE(beau @ Nov 18 2010, 10:35 PM)
Here's my two cents worth

1. Go for classics - there's nothing worse than wearing something fashionable which will provide material for mirth several years down the line when your off springs/relatives remark " what were you thinking when you were wearing that outrageous outfit eg John Travolta's 3 piece white suit in Saturday Night Fever "

2. I would suggest a single breasted charcoal grey suit in a notch lapel ( in 2 or 3 button configuration , depending on your fiance's height/built ) & a peak lapel single breasted dinner jacket in black or midnight blue , preferably with a grosgrain silk lapel

3. Buy your own fabric . Depending on your fiance's size it would be generally 4 to 5 metres per suit.
4. I am partial to British fabrics but am reliably informed that women prefer the feel of the Italian variety.
5. The main places to check out fabrics are as follows:-
    a) Binwani's / Silk Street
    b) Euromoda
    c) Jackal

I would suggest a Super 120's in 8/9 oz for the Grey suit for longevity & perhaps a Super 150 for the dinner jacket given the fact that it would only be worn occasionally . The key is to work within your budget & not to get impress with big brand names ( Zegna ) who spend on marketing & mark up their prices accordingly. It's best to avoid purchasing fabric on the web as a novice unless you have some knowledge of what you are buying. My personal experience with web vendors is mixed.

Please visit Styleforum to research on how to instruct your tailors. Malaysian (Asian) tailors require a great deal of guidance & unless you know the various tailoring nuances , the end result may not be desirable.

6. There are 3 tailors that get much attention with the LY forum members. I will list them along with their pros & cons of each based on my personal experiences as well as that of friends who have patronized them:-
a) Bespoked
    Pros- need little direction , consistent quality
    Cons- Expensive , charges for every little extra detail

b) Granoff
    Pros- Creative director open to suggestions , quality OK
    Cons- can sometimes add a little creative touches which were not requested

c) ALT
    Pros -Cheapest of the 3
    Cons- Can practise discriminatory pricing so need to act tough on price negotiations, require a lot of direction
    otherwise end results can be undesirable.

Another way to approach this is to buy the suits at the year end post Christmas sales & have the suits altered ( assuming your fiancé 's body shape isn't too far off from the standard stock size.

Good luck with your forthcoming nuptial festivities & let us know if you need more help with this.

Do visit Styleforum & 
6. I would look at doing some research on styleforum to get some idea on how to instruct
I admire your patience. But am pessimistic.

I bet you a hundred bucks she goes for a Chinese-made poly something with 3% cashmere lint thrown in. The reasoning behind this is complex, but I've seen enough of these cases.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Nov 19 2010, 01:53 PM
kotmj
post Nov 19 2010, 06:50 PM

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QUOTE(seyuripa @ Nov 19 2010, 04:52 PM)
Not sure this is the right place to ask my question,but I just wanna know that will it be too formal if I'm going to wear my suit and vest for my annual dinner tonight......
There will be alot pf professors attending the dinner and I do hope I can look good in front of them during dinner and if I'm wearing too formal compare to them/others ,I would feel kinda weird......
*
You can post a pic of you in your outfit and we will tell you.


Added on November 19, 2010, 7:35 pmNah, bonus pic.

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Added on November 20, 2010, 12:38 pmTogether with the Zegna shirtings were some Zegna suiting swatches.

This is a winter weight cloth, impervious to wind:
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This is a semi-breathable:
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This is the next best thing to being naked:
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This post has been edited by kotmj: Nov 20 2010, 12:38 PM
kotmj
post Nov 24 2010, 08:00 PM

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It doesn't look bad! However it appears to have a major flaw. The shoulder slope doesn't fit your body, and the part near the neck is unsupported by your body therefore it has collapsed. This is its major failing. I doubt this flaw is in your ALT suit.

The other non-optimal stuff are no big deal: the not-so-nice rear sleeves, the imperfect (but OK) back, the so-so trousers. But these were problems inherited from AL anyway.

I can see a lot of back-of-armscye drape so mobility is no problem.

Just get the shoulder slope right next time.

How do you know if a jacket is fully-canvassed?
kotmj
post Nov 24 2010, 10:01 PM

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QUOTE(deriku @ Nov 24 2010, 09:24 PM)
I noticed the slope problem too, it is far more obvious on my right shoulder than the left. I wonder if it's because of my dropped right shoulder. How does the tailor compensate for a dropped shoulder? Initially he wanted to make the shoulder padding thicker but I resisted.

There was an unfinished jacket (basted suit?) in the display window with visible hand stitchings, so I asked the owner how much it would cost to make one of those (due to my limited knowledge of chinese tailoring terms I told him 'suits that do not use glue'). That particular shop seems to offer a more personalized level of service compared to the fabric store tailors, I might try them when I get my own cloth.
*
user posted image

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This post has been edited by kotmj: Nov 26 2010, 10:39 PM
kotmj
post Nov 26 2010, 09:57 PM

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QUOTE(LiLFreaK @ Nov 26 2010, 02:26 PM)
waiting for end the year sale to get z zegna suit and sport coat hopefully smile.gif!

their price and quality are pretty bargain compared to Prada,Gucci and Emporio Armani..

Prada suits starts at 7k onwards (size 46 onwards for msia boutique), Gucci suits starts at 7k aswell , but I never see them in Malaysia boutique... they only carry sport coats.. which are great quality but priced at 7k-20k (also only comes in 1 size 48)

as for Emporio Armani they also comes in size 46 onwards only in Malaysia.. their 4k-5k david line and jude line suits are crap.. their only good suits are 6k-7k napoli line (canvassed) which i believe might aswell go for Prada ?

as for Z zegna suits and Sport coats at just 4k-5k (with that much money save i can get a prada shirt for 1.8k and a suit/sport coat or a discounted 3k giorgio armani shirts..)  ! but not sure wether they are made in Italy or not but the quality and fit are incredible.. but the material may not be top notch though (prolly reserved for their much more expensive higher line Ermenegildo Zegna and Zegna Couture..)

Z Zegna is Ermenegildo Zegna diffusion line to cather to young people ... slim cutting  and more fashion forward design much like Emporio Armani to Giorgio Armani

i should have checked this store earlier  cry.gif

they even have MTM specialist there.. but i dont have budget for MTM stuffs though!

it was a great experience there , the guy know what he was talking about , not just a sales person he does zegna MTM aswell .. I was very impressed when he can tell my size correctly without me telling him ! and he even know what type of suits that i like (fitting suits)

at the beginning i was torn between Prada or Gucci for my next suits, but at the moment i went and tried the suit in Z Zegna ! its clear what my choice is! (although Gucci stuffs are made by Ermenegildo Zegna but the difference is the price is clearly too steep.. but i can tell the Gucci sport coats have better finishing than Z Zegna material wise.. they have cooler buttons,cooler inside lining (i am not sure what is it called) and .. its GUCCI!! many celebs wear them  thumbup.gif
*
An "MTM specialist" is a contradiction of terms.

The guy's just another SPM dropout who doesn't know the first thing about anything. You must learn to judge people's competence better! It comes in very handy in life. You can hardly even find a single cutter in Malaysia who knows what he is doing, and that after they have been doing it for the past 30 years. How would a stupid guy who works in retail know anything about anything? Frankly, WTF does he know?

Tell you what: Take pics (or have pics taken by said retail idiot, the only thing they are adequate for) and post them here (or on SF) and we will tell you which fits you best. Do not take a single one of his advice!!! Not one!

Added on November 26, 2010, 10:14 pm
QUOTE(HaSY @ Nov 24 2010, 12:51 AM)
Does anyone still fancy combination of both mandarin suit and mandarin shirt?
*
Are you MeToo's wife?


Added on November 26, 2010, 10:37 pm
QUOTE(Tano @ Nov 26 2010, 02:17 PM)
I will be in Malaysia next march to get a suit made to bring back to Australia. Time is limited so i need to choose the right tailor.
What price does Bespoked charge for a fully canvassed 100% wool suit if they supply the materials and you dont know much about suits? ie. just a basic suit, i dont need surgeon cuffs etc.?

Also does he offer extra's, eg 2 pairs of pants or custom MTM work shirt?
*
If you have to ask, you cannot afford them.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Nov 26 2010, 10:37 PM
kotmj
post Nov 27 2010, 06:14 PM

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QUOTE(LiLFreaK @ Nov 27 2010, 12:01 AM)
i dunno from my experience buying in giorgio armani they dont even know what is canvassed or fused lol

anyway these guy said he can do specialize in MTM for zegna so yea.

i dont think all people working in boutiques are spm dropout , have u been to LV boutiques etc
*
One of my hobbies is making tailors squirm! I see a tailoring shop, I go in! I talk to the guy! I've talked to dozens of tailors, and some of them are real cutters i.e. they are the ones who draft the pattern and cut the cloth. Not even these people know enough about their jobs to qualify as "know a lot". In my field of work, "knowing a lot" means something quite different. If I knew as much as the tailors I talk to, I would never get a job (my job)!

An MTM specialist simply means he knows how to take your measurements. You can teach a chimpanzee to do that in 30 minutes.


Added on November 27, 2010, 6:21 pmJust came back from ALT. Damien was there.

The jacket was finished. It looked good, better than in the pics. AL corrected a bunch of stuff. The trousers were too slim though... the back of the legs were plastered against his skin. They will be let out.

I'm convinced woolen trousers should have pleats. They're just so much better with them.


Added on November 27, 2010, 6:24 pm
QUOTE(Cheenoo @ Nov 27 2010, 12:44 AM)
must be your shoes!
*
yes, must be the shoos

or maybe in the process of looking down she saw The Bulge

This post has been edited by kotmj: Nov 27 2010, 06:24 PM
kotmj
post Nov 28 2010, 12:50 PM

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Hah, I thought it would work.

But I'm not convinced you understand the concept behind the tie. It is a phallic symbol, the tie, and the reason of being of the collar pin is to prop up the knot (instead of letting it fall vertically). The top of the tie is supposed to look like a semi-errect d***. Google for the proper way to tie the tie, there's a technique involved.
kotmj
post Nov 28 2010, 03:29 PM

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I think I will tie all my ties like this in the future...

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