It is an ALT.

It has purpose-made holes in the collar to accomodate the pin. When I saw it I went WTF!

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Added on November 28, 2010, 3:40 pmHe was complaining he couldn't fit a tie in... so I said FIH + thin tie + tight knot.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Nov 28 2010, 03:40 PM

These were all procured locally. Less than RM50/length.


So was the pink linen fabric and the light blue linen fabric. They were less than RM40. All via The Cunning Plan.

You know the drill if you want the source

To learn of The Cunning Plan, you need to do The Drill.

I wear linens on Fridays to the office. Why are you so office-centric in your thinking? I wear linen shirts where others would wear polos or Tshirts. I do not iron them. Just wash, line dry, and wear. There is something very FU about an unironed linen shirt, it shows you're not timid.

I see these mature men walking about shopping malls in polos and "dress" polyester trousers and awful shoes. They would be better served wearing a bespoke linen shirt. So comfortable and so appropriate for casual wear and 3X more stylish than polos for those who are older (30s and above).

You will be missed.

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Added on November 28, 2010, 9:53 pmI almost never seen linen shirts being worn so I'm gonna just explain one situation where it shines.

Company trip to Bali or wherever. You're now flying home. Eveyone is to meet at the lobby after a morning on the beach/pool/breakfast buffet.

Poeple are wearing colourful Tshirts and shorts and Nike (+ white socks). All tropical and everything.

Then you enter the lobby in a light blue linen shirt, open necked with sleeves rolled up, white chinos, navy Canali belt and brown Church's.

Everybody dies.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Nov 28 2010, 09:53 PM

As always, you are right.

I suggest you establish a workers' union to secure yourselves the privilege to dress in a civilized manner. Threaten to go on strike unless your demands are met.

Well, here's me wearing my Mandarin jacket

Really really really liking this shoulder by Hardy Amies. I know now I like clean structured shoulders. Structured, but not excessively padded. So sweet. Unstructured shoulders should be reserved for tweed and linen jackets.

Have you actually seen the CTs? Because I have seen a few and they do not appear to me to be one twat better than any Renoma you can find at Parkson (in fact, Renoma may be better). The collars and cuffs of those I've seen were definitely fused. The cloth (of those I've seen) is probably China-made. Cheap. Nowhere near oak nut. The Tan Sri bought a few but they were unwearable for him without severe alterations. That's what I know about CTs. But they may have different ranges and the ones I saw may be bottom-drawer ones.

I've come to accept that my shirts will cost a lot. I can go back to using cheap cloth and a cheaper tailor (half the price of AL) but the very thought pushes me into clinical depression.

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Added on December 3, 2010, 1:03 amAlso, those CTs on sale will make you look like you have no sense of dress propriety. Unlike what many people think, only certain designs are appropriate for business. Those typically on sale definitely aren't.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Dec 3 2010, 01:03 AM

Every man needs at least one good suit. Get one, not two. I find it OK to have only one suit. But a suit is pointless unless it is very well cut. So one masterpiece of a suit.

I like to look well turned out everyday. I don't have highs and lows (except at home, before bed or something). Dependably well-dressed everyday. When I was an intern in Europe at a very large company, the CEO was coming for a visit from France. Eveybody dressed their best on that day, and I wore a shirt I though was good. But the intern next to me said, "You're really wearing the wrong shirt for such a day." I didn't agree with him then -- it was a good shirt! A Benetton!!! (Does he have any idea how much it cost?)

But now that I know more about clothes, I realize he was right. It fits me so badly.

People notice good shirts. And they notice bad shirts.

The urgency for a "custom made" shirt came to me some 2 years ago when I went for a job interview in a local family-owned business. The MD, who founded the company was talking and so on when his son came in. He was in his mid-twenties. I stood up to shake his hands, and at that moment I was stunned by the shirt he was wearing. A pale blue, so plain, yet it fitted him like no other shirt I've ever seen.

People notice good shirts. Everybody notices good shirts.

So, one masterpiece of a suit, several perfect shirts in conservative business patterns, three shoes from Northhampton (with one being a black oxford captoe), and several bespoke woolen trousers. That's the capsule collection for every working man.

I tot he was going to be your next sex fetish object...

Jackets are very different from trousers, almost always made by different persons. If the pants are done incredibly well, then I think you're dealing with a tailor of potential greatness. But the link betwwen pants and jacket is not strong.

How are you going to judge the fit and workmanship of the pants? The criteria are not obvious to the layperson. It is difficult to get pants to fit right. A jacket even more so. I've never actually met an accomplished Malaysian tailor.

Several orders of magnitude more elegant than the others...

Clearly, you should give Bespoked a call regarding delivery timelines.

I buy all my cloth online.

They charge you for breathing the air in their shop.

I brought a friend there to have a suit made. RM2200, their cloth.

The cloths you picked are really strange leh. Confirms my theory that picking cloths is a science. You shouldn't go higher than S120. Pick again.

There is just no way you're paying 1.5K, cloth provided. Those cloths are not even fit for wiping the floor with. They were so disgusting my friend went for more expensive stuff, and prices there start at 2.1K.

Anything at Binwani's or Jackals or whatever will be more expensive and worse than online.

I thought you said it was a disaster or something. I saw it in the shop and it looked very nice. AL's coatmaker knows how to shape a jacket.

I spent today drafting a pattern for my next suit. Took me 3 hours just for the body panels sans sleeves. Did it on tracing paper. Once I've perfected it I will bring it to you-know-who. It was easy peasy (as an elaborately trained design engineer, I am accustomed to much tougher things).

It looks like this:

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Added on December 7, 2010, 10:54 pmDrafting this pattern thought me a few things about the styling of a jacket. In this drafting system (from the 1950's), the width at the hips (looking from the front) is not determined by your pelvic bone. I mean, if a jacket is supposed to follow the contours of the body, that is the natural things to do, right?

No, the width at the hips is identical to the chest width!!! I was so surprised. But it makes sense. Hourglass figure. Top and bottom must be symmetrical. Another old tailoring secret discovered.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Dec 7 2010, 10:54 PM

Go for navy (no stripes) or mid-grey or charcoal. No stripes at all, anywhere. Herringbone weave is OK (again, no stripes).

Binwani's cheapest Italian (Italian cloth = cheap, English cloth = good) cheapshit is RM180/m during sales (RM220 without discount). Why would SE Asia be THE place to buy worsteds? When was the last time you saw a cloth mill here? What is the reasoning behind your assumption? Tell me!

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Added on December 8, 2010, 12:58 amOn top of that, if you go to the cloth shops you have to deal with that bunch of sleazy idiotic salespeople trying to ram cloth down your throat and up your anus and telling you to buy 6m when 2.7m would be sufficient. People who say plastic buttons are shell buttons. God I hate idiots like that.

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Added on December 8, 2010, 1:01 amNot to mention all the China cloth with Italian names they're trying to peddle.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Dec 8 2010, 01:01 AM

I wish you luck with her.

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Added on December 8, 2010, 1:11 amBecause if I do not impose that constraint I will have to filter through all his stripe choices. He obviously has no idea which stripes are appropriate for business and which will have you stared at.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Dec 8 2010, 01:15 AM

One of you should just go buy this.

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=212814

God, I'm so generous with my sources.