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 The suiting thread v2

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pasquinel
post Apr 7 2011, 07:42 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 7 2011, 06:53 PM)
I HAVE UPDATED MY SUTING STICKY!
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The future of Malaysian bespoke looks bleaker than ever. Perhaps it's time Deriku convinces his tailor in Beijing to make a KL stopover. Btw, Deriku, is your tailor Dave's? He certainly fits the bill; location, quality and cost-wise.
pasquinel
post Apr 7 2011, 10:51 PM

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QUOTE(deriku @ Apr 7 2011, 10:26 PM)
Location yes, quality perhaps. But I daresay the cost of my tailor is at least half that of Dave's. I have heard good things about Dave but being the poor expat I tend to check out the less glamorous and less costly options smile.gif
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Dave's suits start fr USD430 (information fr their website) which is pretty competitive actually. Does your tailor take online orders? Looks like I'll have to take the even less glamorous and less costly option and order online )P It's a huge leap of faith though cos so many things can go wrong with self-measurement.

pasquinel
post Apr 8 2011, 10:30 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Apr 8 2011, 09:34 AM)
Look at a thousand bespoke suits.

It is not a leap of faith. It is a leap off a building.

You lack the most basic understanding of the process.


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I was talking about online suit orders being a leap of faith. Get off your high horse, there is no need for insults here. We are all on this forum to discuss and learn about the suiting experience.
pasquinel
post Apr 8 2011, 11:19 AM

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Not everyone can afford to fly to Naples or Beijing.

Granted, online orders are a hit and miss as witnessed on the many threads on SF. But then again, so is Malaysian tailoring.

So, what does a Malaysian guy have to do get a nice suit? Our options dreadfully limited.
pasquinel
post Apr 8 2011, 07:39 PM

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QUOTE(stylophile @ Apr 8 2011, 02:27 PM)
I would rather make a suit with a rubbish tailor here than to order one online. The China tailor is just a good tailor, not a magician.

Although, if you do go against everyone's advise and order it online, I would be very interested in the results.
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Ordering online is only one of the options that I'm considering. Though most of the reputable tailors offer money back guarantees. The other option is go to a tailor that I've identified in a neighboring country when I'm on a work stopover, get measured and fitted and have them courier the finished suit.
pasquinel
post Apr 9 2011, 07:02 PM

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QUOTE(Ad Hominem @ Apr 8 2011, 11:32 PM)
Which mill makes these summer kid mohair + wool fabrics (sold by Howard and Karl)? Most of these are 'makerless', although any Yorkshire fabric is most likely to trump everything else at the same price point...

Would these fabrics be noticeably better than say Cape Breeze (Dugdale's being most likely the best bang for buck choice).


Added on April 8, 2011, 11:59 pm

The tailoring scene in Malaysia isn't that bad - the problem is, you must know what you want, and be able to put it across.

There are many tailors in KL that cut and fit you themselves, BUT you have to understand that these guys have a sack suit as their 'house cut'.

Find an honest tailor, who will stand by their work (and willing to go the extra mile during fittings), then make at least 2 suits (and build a relationship!)- by the second one, they should be able to 'get' your pattern, and make you a great fitting, SF approved suit. And all for less than RM 2K! If you wish to get full canvassing, then of course you will have to commission the first few 'test' pieces with a tailor who knows how to make one - so far only ALT, unless kotmj shares his sources  biggrin.gif

The key here is not to expect 'perfection' from the word go. If at first you dont succeed, try, try again  tongue.gif
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Havent written off the the local tailors yet. But building a relationship with Bespoked does not come cheap. They do full canvassing as well for an extra rm500.
And that's not even taking into account working cuffs yet.

Feel like exploring in the interim.
pasquinel
post Apr 11 2011, 09:24 PM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Apr 11 2011, 11:45 AM)
Wardrobe, full canvassing +500RM. Working cuffs free, infact nearly all options, no extra charges so far.
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Suits on their website look good. Are they as pricey as bespoked?
pasquinel
post May 2 2011, 12:37 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 1 2011, 11:22 PM)
Dude! You have to keep it secret!!

If the forum finds out his price will go up 70% and lead time will triple.


Added on May 1, 2011, 11:40 pmAnd where did you think AL learnt all his English terms from? You? Meh.
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Us forummers rarely get a good suit out cos there are not many good tailors around. We post it our commissioned suits on this forum and get criticized kau-kau by the experienced bespeakers. But that's all well and good, cos that way we learn to commission better suits.

But when a good tailor appears on the radar all you guys who are so quick to criticise guard it so jealously like you just found the holy grail.
Meanwhile, the world goes on thinking we don't have decent tailors in this country.

Come on, give us a break. Or better yet, give this newfound tailor a break. His shop looks like it's falling apart, he obviously needs our business. Don't let 3 generations of tailoring heritage fade into obscurity.

This post has been edited by pasquinel: May 2 2011, 09:57 AM
pasquinel
post May 2 2011, 03:23 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 2 2011, 02:50 PM)
Dude, you want to go there with me someday? You go first, I see how.


Added on May 2, 2011, 2:55 pm
I understand that some people are born obnoxious. What I forgot about tailoring is more than you ever knew about it.


Added on May 2, 2011, 3:11 pm
Where did you learn to write like that?

There is a big difference between doing full canvassing and being a good tailor.

A truly great tailor is a truly great fitter. Fit ueber alles, fit above all else. An exquisitely fitted fused number will trump any fully canvassed number exhibiting glaring fitting faults.

Unfortunately, fit is complicated. Intellectually taxing, even.

I will eventually reveal this tailor anyway as with MBT. These tailors all deserve more business than they are getting. Besides, I hate shops like Bespoked and Granoff and Lord's. There is not a single shred of authenticity or tradition in shops like these. Price is high and work is mediocre. Anything that diverts customers away from them is fine by me.
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+1
pasquinel
post May 3 2011, 05:21 PM

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So who's MBT already?
pasquinel
post May 3 2011, 06:08 PM

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Yes Stylo, I shall be patient. Kudos to the random dudes for the revelation smile.gif

I can only imagine what other hidden gems lay out there waiting to be revealed or re-discovered.

pasquinel
post May 4 2011, 12:19 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 4 2011, 11:37 AM)
the capitalist gets a lot of everything.

alright, in the interest of the sartorial salvation of my landsmen, i shall put here a strong clue as to MBT's identity. No doubt there is someone who can identify him from the way he tacks buttons, or manipulates the sewing machine...

user posted image


Added on May 4, 2011, 11:45 amCan some overly smart alec (Inc. 100, etc) tell me what flaw is apparent in this jacket?

user posted image
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The lapels end too far down the front, parallel to the pockets. Throws off the proportion of the jacket.
pasquinel
post May 9 2011, 05:26 PM

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QUOTE(Ad Hominem @ May 8 2011, 11:59 PM)
Has anyone commissioned a jacket or suit from this new tailor Kwong Fook Wing yet, or going for a fitting?
I want to see how the jacket hangs from the shoulders, the fit, the silhouette.
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Yup. Should be fitting sometime this week.
pasquinel
post May 10 2011, 06:35 PM

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QUOTE(h11g @ May 9 2011, 09:55 PM)
wow you are fast~! anyways how much did the new tailor charge you to commission a suit?
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I wanted to drop by to survey the place, and have a look at some of his finished suits. There weren't many, maybe around 4. They looked like they were made for some middle-aged, upper management types. He said the rest had been sent for drycleaning. But my curiosity got the better of me, I wanted to know what this 3rd generation tailor could do for me. I'm impulsive that way.

My curiosity cost me 1.5k.

This post has been edited by pasquinel: May 10 2011, 09:09 PM
pasquinel
post May 11 2011, 05:49 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 11 2011, 11:33 AM)
Must have been an inexpensive cloth.

The whole suit-wearing community is waiting with bated breath for pics of your new suit.

Did you have any particular request or will it be in his house cut?
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Yup, it was an unbranded English 180s wool fabric. I asked for open quarters (Mr.Kwong calls it cut-away). I didn't quite take to the curved lapels that I saw on the other suit jackets and asked him for straight ones.

I didn't specify anything else beyond that as I'm just as curious to see what he'd recommend. The rest of the details ie. pockets, lining etc. he said can be determined on the first fitting.

This post has been edited by pasquinel: May 11 2011, 06:02 PM
pasquinel
post May 18 2011, 06:32 PM

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Alright gentlemen, the moment we've all been waiting for. Called Mr.Kwong this morning after waiting for close to 2 weeks for his call and he asked me to come in for the first fitting. He'd been busy getting the King's robes ready for his birthday.

Please excuse the pix. Mr.Kwong's hands are steady only when it comes to tailoring and not photography. This was the only pix I could salvage.

Attached Image


Some of the things he'll still be fixing:

- Quarters will be open and curved.
- Shoulders won't jut out this way, they'll be more natural.
- Jacket will be more waisted.
- Right sleeve to be lengthened slightly.

There'll be 2 more fittings before the finished suit. Will try to post pix of the suit in entirety the next time.

This post has been edited by pasquinel: May 18 2011, 10:47 PM
pasquinel
post May 19 2011, 10:20 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 19 2011, 12:11 AM)
Looks promising


Added on May 19, 2011, 12:22 amThough again you picked a really thin fabric. Thin fabrics are no good.
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Yup, I was kinda sceptical about the thickness of the fabric but Mr.Kwong said it's be okay. Guess I shouldn't always just take the tailor's advice when it comes to the fabric.
They all seem to be pushing me the thin fabrics.


Added on May 19, 2011, 10:24 am
QUOTE(Cheenoo @ May 19 2011, 01:02 AM)
Definitely will be much better than your previous suit. What colour is that btw? Navy? Did he decide on the gorge height?

On a separate note, I am lusting for a particular Uniqlo jacket. But I can't think of an instance when I can wear it. Even an SC here is widely considered to be overdressed.
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It's a light grey fabric. He decided on the gorge height.



This post has been edited by pasquinel: May 19 2011, 10:24 AM
pasquinel
post May 20 2011, 10:42 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ May 19 2011, 01:56 PM)
Looks like a dated cut. I would tell him to open up the shoulder seam, bring up and recut the gorge and lower the button stance.
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Mentioned the sleeves to him on the first fitting. Also mentioned the seams along the length of the sleeve are coming out to the front of the sleeve.
He said he would take it all apart and that the first fitting was to see how the whole thing draped.

The overall jacket is a bit sack-like at the moment. Let's see what can be done with the gorge and button stance once the sack fits a little better.
Could you elaborate on the re-cutting of the gorge?
pasquinel
post May 21 2011, 05:50 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ May 21 2011, 12:58 PM)
Do nothing of the sort. Just say you want a shapely jacket that emphasizes the chest and waist. A clean back, and enough "lai foo ying" at the rear armsyce for upper body range of motion.
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Sounds like sound advice.
pasquinel
post Jun 4 2011, 06:24 PM

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QUOTE(The Diplomat @ Jun 2 2011, 09:55 AM)
I will ask him and let you know.


Added on June 3, 2011, 8:01 pm

So went down again today. He said his fabric was 2x2 ply. I ended up going with the navy herringbone super 120s. Though I'm not an expert, his fabric felt quite coarse for 120s pure wool. He claimed it was, regardless I think this will be a good test run and then i'll have the cache to return with my own fabric.

His canvassing material felt a bit thick and coarse, but i'm holding out that it will increase the life of he jacket. Forgot to ask if he'd do removable buttons.

First fitting is scheduled for 10 days. Pasquale - your light gray jacket was sitting waiting for you.
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Went in for the second fitting today. Suit's coming along quite nicely. Photos didn't turn out too nicely though, profile and back pix were ok but frontal pix were taken from too low an angle to be able to show the correct proportion of the suit jacket. So will take some new shots when I go in next week to pick up a suit jacket I dropped off to have the sleeves shortened.

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