
Tools: Gundam spray can + mechanical pencil + tamiya weathering tool + mr. color semi gloss topcoat.
This post has been edited by Vorador: Apr 9 2012, 01:41 AM
Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, v3
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Apr 9 2012, 01:39 AM
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#21
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3,494 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Nosgoth |
A little paint job
![]() Tools: Gundam spray can + mechanical pencil + tamiya weathering tool + mr. color semi gloss topcoat. This post has been edited by Vorador: Apr 9 2012, 01:41 AM |
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Apr 9 2012, 01:38 PM
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#22
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QUOTE(ascentic @ Apr 9 2012, 10:32 AM) Is it good to use bro? hmm.. ACE hardware eh.. ok I go hunt next weekend hm... didn't take much photos on this, in fact, already finished the all the white color parts for this kit. May be I can record down what I did in the blue color component and post it here Added on April 9, 2012, 10:38 am Nice Cheers.. |
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Apr 9 2012, 02:59 PM
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#23
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QUOTE(yuyuyu @ Apr 9 2012, 02:34 PM) Hi there, just some sharing here...can share how you guys do the candy layer? do you guys do it part by part? spray all sides at once or...? and the approx distance when spraying... or some other tip and tricks. I've tried sparkling silver -> candy green but doesnt quite work to metallic effect because i think the candy layer too thick... because i cant get the same even layer thus tried spray too many layer to cover... ;( However it turns out a dark clear green layer which is still okay (on zaku2 green body) PS: i tried spraying at a distance initially but the paint kind of "separate" (sort of like polka dot). Do i need to spray longer at distance? - Hold the nozzle/ can around 30cms from your target. - Spray no more than 2 seconds per round. - Be patient, wait until it completely dry before next round of spraying. - Repeat it for few times, until the color are painted evenly on surface. Note: - The color might not looks good for first round, but after several times should be ok. - Never spray for very long (like more than 5 seconds) in close distance in 1 short, this will result in thick color layer and looks ugly. - Should you use protection coat, avoid doing so in rainy day. (Or else frosting effect might drive you mad!) All the best in gunpla! |
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Apr 9 2012, 04:39 PM
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#24
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QUOTE(yuyuyu @ Apr 9 2012, 03:43 PM) Do you do it part by part? i'm not using airbrush, hence spraying part by part is extremely wasting to the expensive spray can, esp gundam color spray!what i usually do is, i cut the part out and polish nubmarks etc, then use blutack stil back to sprue (if i want it to be other color i will stick on other sprue). After that i will spray paint, start from north, then east, south and west (and bottom if required) so all direction will be sprayed. I have no problem with other color, just that candy color still couldnt get the effect right. so what I do is place all the components properly on a piece of large paper, then spray all over it. and yes, 4 direction. tonight back home will post some picture |
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Apr 9 2012, 09:01 PM
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Apr 9 2012, 09:25 PM
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#26
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QUOTE(mf_yamato @ Apr 9 2012, 09:20 PM) i'm doing like that before but there will be sometime u need to color the underside of it... okie... ... btw should I invest an air brush? spraying like this really waste lots of paint... ...that's why i use those lidi lidi...huhuhu that also cheap one...for a few hundred stick wont cost u rm10.... |
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Apr 10 2012, 12:21 AM
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#27
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QUOTE(z3r0717 @ Apr 9 2012, 10:47 PM) If you love this hobby and want to achieve nicer paint job with more control and will yourself painting often... i think u means the money I spent for all the spray can is enough for a compressor + air brush + few cans of color...? (reason is, I had spent so much for spray can, included those wrong color bought... ... then what's stopping you? i dont see you have a budget problem u know, my friend was advising me an exhaust fan/ pipe with airbrush or else will mess up entire room... ... |
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Apr 11 2012, 12:05 AM
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#28
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QUOTE(z3r0717 @ Apr 10 2012, 10:08 AM) yes and also i feel that you are capable as well. haha thx for the comment on my skill. btw will need to learn everything form 0... since I had invested all my skill on weathering tool, and brush paint...The first MG i painted, i bought mr.hobby spray cans. The amount of money i used is more expensive than the kit already, and i was like wtf.... You definitely need an spray booth(with exhaust fan) if spraying indoor.. The fumes are actually poisonness if you smell too much, it ain't good for your health. eh may I check, is using air brush much more time consuming? |
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Apr 11 2012, 07:17 PM
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#29
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use the same color and spray 1 very very thin layer on it
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Apr 11 2012, 11:50 PM
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#30
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QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Apr 11 2012, 07:23 PM) use cotton bud soaked in hobby thinner(lacquer type) and slowly apply on surface.. do u means dip the top coat can in warm water a while before stop coat work?the reason of frosting because the top coat can in low temperature or you spray on rainy day.. solution : put it in warm water about 2-3 min before you spray the kit hope this help.. im also experienced this problem when i first time do top coat the gunpla will this help even if we do the top cat in rainy day? |
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Apr 13 2012, 12:34 AM
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#31
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QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Apr 12 2012, 01:08 AM) QUOTE(z3r0717 @ Apr 12 2012, 09:39 AM) it's best not to spray on a rainy day... oh yeah, luv this tips, can't wait to continue my build this weekend! (next week traveling for whole week, so will be long delay... yes, like what nazrul90 said, dip it in a warm water for like 5mins and shake well before spraying it. |
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May 2 2012, 11:20 PM
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#32
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QUOTE(nazrul90 @ May 1 2012, 06:05 PM) quite normal de. in fact spraying top coat too thick, or too many layers might coz the color become lighter. But most of the time the color fade is due to frosting. however, sometime I do full use this color fade effect to lighten my post shading in case I accidentally apply too dark color on it. (Note: applicable to white color part only) |
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May 3 2012, 02:02 PM
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#33
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QUOTE(gunpla student @ May 3 2012, 03:17 AM) What panel liner did you use bro? dip ur water decal into water, then drop a bit of mark settler on the surface, transfer your decal onto it, adjust until the position is right, then use a cotton bud to dry it.Added on May 3, 2012, 5:15 amhi guys, would like to know how to apply mr mark setter and softener? beware, once it's dry will be VERY HARD to remove, and often left some mark on ur kit afterward. But by using mark settler, the effect is very good, make ur decal like printed on surface instead of stick on it just use mark settler is enough, it got both softener and sticking effect. (atleast the cover said so :S) |
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May 3 2012, 02:54 PM
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#34
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QUOTE(gunpla student @ May 3 2012, 02:07 PM) I see, I thought applying the softener on the surface of the decals would make it softer. totally no affect on your kit's surface. so no worry to use it after you painted ur gunpla issit top coat it glossy before applying water decals would differ significantly? But dip a bit onto the decal's surface after you applied it also a good idea, to 'soften' more for the decal. (according to some youtube video) just ensure the decal wont shift position afterward. (or else is a PAIN to correct it) btw I'm using mr.hobby's mark settler. |
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May 3 2012, 08:55 PM
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Oct 16 2012, 02:15 PM
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QUOTE(ascentic @ Oct 16 2012, 11:21 AM) Just wanna share something Thanks for sharing! I always frustrated by the bad cutting mark, coz need to sand it afterward, not to mention how it might screw the transparent componentNew Cutter from Japan ~ maybe.. I don't read Japanese.. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « .... wonder how much is it. crap... it says "limited amount, only available in that particular shop!" This post has been edited by Vorador: Oct 16 2012, 02:17 PM |
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Oct 16 2012, 03:26 PM
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#37
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