the reason why i don't recommend that method is because yes once you paint one side then you can flip the parts BUT there is the a risk where when you flip, the painted part's paint might come off due to the double side tape if you're careful.
The best is spray one by one rather than all at once. Yes, you can spray multiple parts depending on the parts then you can spray 2-3 together.

It's a workshop where "us" modellers gather and do model kits or just hang out. The shop also sell tools and some kits, so it's much convenient for everyone who lives nearby. I don't mind giving you some fundamental skills as i'm teaching one of my friend. Do let me know.

Yeap, this is the one

Yes.. we have a bunch of usuals there. Once you hang out with us most of the time then you won't be too shy.

i only go if i need to airbrush. but usually everyday they will be more ppl.
I don't suggest you to go today as Chinese having family dinner so most likely many won't attend tonight.
Oh yea they open 7.30-10.30pm(mon-fri) , for sat it's 12-5.30PM

Because you use tapes so there is a risk of it peeling the paints. Unless you use masking tapes(tamiya) but able to hold small parts.
No matter what before spraying colors, always top coat.

I don't mind giving you guys fundamental tips/skill at icw if you guys meet up together. I can share my knowledge one shot.

I seldom go on weekends. You adjust the time with me tru pm

Too bad.
Top coat is usually the last step or before you do decaling(optional)

oh sorry for the confusion..
what i meant was before you paint, must PRIME.
yes.. always prime first.

Here's a very useful Link

i think you totally misunderstood.
Reason why we prime it is because..
Every part we'll sand it. Why? because once you cut them our from the runners, they will have nib marks. We sand to get rid of the nib marks.
But once we sand, we leave light/heavy scratches on the parts therefore we need to prime.
Prime/surfacer's purpose is to cover the scratches(not the heavy ones) and also make the paint stick "better".
so for us modelers, we prime every single parts except transparent parts because we want to paint it.

Why not paint the white part when already planned to paint other parts.
Top coat does not help cover scratches. It only helps protect the paints and give a nice finishing.

I understand as this hobby requires $$ when starting up.

You're not suppose to use white primer as white paint but if you can live with it then it's up to you. White primer finishing is not the same as white paints.

i am assuming you're gonna use everything spray cans to spray your kit therefore the $$ load. I've been there before.
Think about it, I used spray cans to sprayed my MG strike freedom. The kit cost me RM179(few years back) and the spray cans alone already cost me RM200+(mr hobby + tamiya). So it was not worth it unless you use industrial spray cans like others mentioned.

Think about it thoroughly, if you think you are gonna be serious in this hobby why not save the money and get an air brush set like i did. The starting cost might be "painful" but long term wise, it's a good investment. It may take you 400-600(basic set) of air brush but paints cost you like RM8-10 per bottle. 1 White bottle can spray 2-3 MGs.

I hope my long post doesn't bore you and able to help you. I know a guy in Sarawak or Sabah brings in gunpla tools and stuff so at least you won't have to worry about shipping cost so much.

One question, why do you need compound? do you know what it's purpose?

hmm.. yes, some modellers do use compound for the clear parts but rarely for gundam. Usually air craft modeller will use compound on their cockpit window to make it smooth or get rid small scratches. Car modellers will need compound to make their car shining and "reflective". As for your case, i don't see why you need compound for clear parts.
I usually just leave them as it is OR unless i want to color the clear parts then i will use clear paints.

I can understand your situation as a student. So instead of piling up kits, save the $$ for air brush as kits will never go out of stock(unless limited). I've stop buying gundams for a year or so, buying more paints.

1. After snap fitting, it's up to you whether you wanna topcoat it or not. Top coat as i said is just to give a nice finishing(gloss, semi-gloss, flat) but if you plan to paint the same kit in the future then don't top coat it.

2. Primer/surfacers do in a bottle for air brush use. 1 bottle of primer can prime up to 4-5 MG or more and 1 bottle cost about RM15-20.

alright...
yes, you are right...
usually i don't sand the transparent parts because they are a hassle. i just cut as clean as i could or just sand a little on the nib mark and hope it isn't obvious.

hmm... i would suggest you a japanese technique for newbies.
Get a dengeki hobby, any issue.. they usually promote the certain kit(new) for the magazine. they will paint the whole kit for the first few pages. the next few pages are intended for those who do not own air brush. some touch up tips and top coat to make the kit look good as if it was painted.
You should give it a go. Try searching on the web for such tips.

should look like this

it would be better if you could find the kit you're doing on that issue

This post has been edited by z3r0717: Dec 23 2012, 03:26 PM

1. ver. ka means it's redesign or designed by Katoki(a japanese gundam designer)
2. the modeller highlighted the red parts because he wants to cut it off or sand it for modding purposes

appreciate it bro. lol

If you plan to paint the kit, always pre-assemble. Make the parts looser so you can take out in the future.
Either making the hole slightly bigger OR cut the male peg 45 degrees. Test them whether they are still tight anot.

Raive93,
Go check this website out, most of your questions can be answered here and some even with Video
http://gamerabaenre.com/?page_id=1202

I do understand you are starting this new hobby and you are curious about all of it so was i when i began.
I was told before without even trying yet asking too many questions might not help you. You need to experience it first to understand.

The old masking sol sux but the new one is just nice. I've never heard of the masking sol ruining the paint unless the person did some wrong steps.
After using the masking sol and paint your kit, try not to leave it for one day, it may harden therefore ruining the paint(maybe). I have never apply clear coat(gloss) just for masking sol. Even other modellers that i know do not have this problem.
masking tape once it dries, use tweezer or tooth pick to slowly peel it out.


1. Gaia and Mr color are lacquer base. Both can be mix. Both primers can be used. Lacquer does not harm ABS, as far as i know enamel does. Enamel will weaken it and make it brittle. Primer does not harm any parts of your kit.

2. i think this is for shading. Usually shading 1st layer is dark tone then only lighter tone to achieve the shading effect(AB only). If you use AB, lighter color can be covered over darker color if you spray it properly.

3. Try Agent man in pain(forgot the proper nickname). He is from sarawak or sabah(forgot) OR order online from Tkting

Raive93
1. If you read the comments, most of them didn't encounter the problem and everyone prime first. the guy who had the problem didn't prime.
2. pre shading cannot be achieve by hand painting but there's another method which is like light "weathering". Let's not get into that first. Master your fundamentals first.
3. In that case, order online. Save your trouble.

i'm refering to sol R, sol Neo is the old formula.. both are the same, one is old formula, one is new.. sol R is a new formula and so much better to use.

This post has been edited by z3r0717: Jan 17 2013, 10:19 AM

I assume you are using industrial spray can. This is from my experience using spray can(industrial), I was nvr able to get it right even with proper masking and all, the reason is industrial spray cans has a very high air pressure therefore the paint is thick & wet. While it is thick and wet, it's easy for it to go "under" the masking tape causing an unsatisfied result. I always get this if i use industrial and it also leaves a noticeable layer if you have 2 colors on a part. Unless you're able to spray a very thin layer but that would be very wasteful for a spray can.
Just my 2 cents and hope you get what i meant

to mask curvy area, either you cut according to shape or cut into smaller piece and form the shape.
Test it on a part before doing it. Curvy parts are tricky which is why need more practice.
Sometimes i do like this and it depends on the part. IF the parts has a deep gap line(panel line), put the wide(bigger) masking tape on top of it, use a very sharp blade(pen knife like ofla preferred) also cut through following the gap line following the shape. Of course not too hard until you scratch the part, adjust your strength by just cutting the masking tape only.

NO... cannot..
Mr hobby thinners are for lacquer not acrylics.
Try checking with tkting(forumer) here got stock anot

no, it's fake

mr hobby do has acrylic products but most places sell their lacquer products