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> Display Calibration Fundamentals : My Take, Display Calibration

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TSanfieldude
post Mar 23 2010, 08:12 AM, updated 3y ago

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A Beginner’s Guide to Display Calibration

This guide is work in progress. I will update with pictures as time goes by, please be patient.

What is Calibration?

Calibrate - To check, adjust, or determine by comparison with a standard (the graduations of a quantitative measuring instrument)

Calibration - The act or process of calibrating or the state of being calibrated.

Display calibration is centred on calibration of your display to standards.

Movie studios/directors adhere to standards when mastering movies/films.

One key feature of the standards for movies (colour) is the white point. The reference white point is defined as D65 for both North American and European standards. The white point refers to an x,y coordinate of 0.3127, 0.329 in the CIE Chromacity chart. CIE(Commission Internationale de l’Eclairage) is the international body responsible for the measurement of color.

6500K however, is a measure of the correlated colour temperature (CCT) of the white. Where D65 specifically targets a white point, the colour temperature is slightly misleading. It is possible to have a white that is 6500K in colour temperature (as it depends on whether the red and the blue channels primarily) but not hitting D65 white. For all practical purposes, D65 is a better representation of calibrating to a standard as if you do hit the 0.3127, 0.329, you automatically hit 6500K CCT.

The different standards that are available out there are:
· ITU-R Recommendation BT.709 (“Rec. 709”) – the standard for both North American and European high definition television - HD
· ITU-R Recommendation BT.601 (“Rec. 601”) and SMPTE-C – the standard for NTSC 480i/60Hz standard definition television (SMPTE-C has supplanted Rec. 601), and
· PAL/SECAM – the standard defined by the European Broadcasting Union (EBU) for 576i/50Hz standard definition television.

Once a display is calibrated to these standards (or as close to these standards as your display will allow) you do not need to wonder if the picture is accurate and tweak your settings for every movie. If your post calibration results are good, the pictures that you are viewing are as close to what the director intended for you to see.

This post has been edited by anfieldude: May 10 2010, 02:03 PM
TSanfieldude
post Mar 23 2010, 08:13 AM

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Key Components/Terminology

1. Brightness
2. Contrast
3. Sharpness
4. Colour (Hue, Saturation, Lightness)
5. Tint
6. Greyscale
7. Gamma


In order to carry out basic calibration, you would need a test disc and preferably colorimeter/spectrophotometer/lightmeter & calibration software.

Test Patterns
Test patterns or test discs are needed for you to set some of the basic stuff even without a meter. I would recommend the free AVSHD709 (for HD sources, Blu Ray and Media Players) or TomHuffmans free NTSC DVD test patterns. You can also purchase the GetGray test disc (available in PAL and NTSC), DVE HD Basic Calibration Blu Ray/DVD or the fantastic Spears and Munsil HD Benchmark

We will discuss the most basic component of display calibration, one that can be done without any meters (most of the time)

Setting Brightness
Brightness is actually the setting of the black level that for me is the basis of a proper calibration. My preference on the test pattern on setting brightness would be the brightness (PLUGE Low– Picture Line Up GEnerator) pattern on S&M Test Disc. However, since most of you would not be buying the test discs all the explanation would be based on AVSHD709 free test disc. Pull up the Basic Settings, 1st pattern (called brightness and contrast). On this pattern you will see flashing bars labeled 1-25 against a video black of 16. First check that you cannot see all the way down to the label of below 5. If you do these bars flashing, you need to check the settings of you Blu Ray player or your display. What is probably happening is that you are sending a RGB Full signal (also lookout if your display has a setting for 0 IRE, 7.5IRE, select 7.5IRE for the correct setup). For all BD or DVD material, it is based on a video level setting of 16 and above. This is the 1st setting you need to check. Once you select the correct output from your player (typically most players have an Auto setting, this setting normally sets to YCbCr it depends on the EDID that your display is sending out), you are ready to set the brightness. It is better to set the brightness in a dark environment. Turn up the brightness until you can see the bars below 16 flash. Then turn it down until 17 can barely be seen. Now go to the next pattern. The next pattern is brightness and a contrast pattern together. For displays that have different outputs based on dark/bright content in the same screen (plasmas, crt) check your brightness setting that you set earlier. Same method used here, in this case see if you can get at least 19 and above flashing and the 16 and below not flashing. The correct brightness setting is the higher one from pattern 1 and 2. ie, if using the 1st pattern you got a brightness of +1, and on the 2nd pattern you got a brightness of +2 then , use +2.

This post has been edited by anfieldude: Apr 8 2010, 03:12 PM
TSanfieldude
post Mar 23 2010, 08:13 AM

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Setting Contrast.
Setting of contrast on a digital display without meters is difficult, as most digital displays do not clip white levels above digital white of 235. Pull up the contrast setting pattern on the AVS HD709, 3rd pattern on the basic setting page. You should be able to see as many bars as possible above 235. If you do not see anything above 230 then your set is clipping whites. Else adjust contrast up/down to show as many bars above 235 as possible. Most digital displays will show quite a bit above 235. Another thing to look out for is if the contrast is set too high, the whites start to look reddish, bluish or greenish. In this case, you need to set contrast in tandem with another pattern. In the Misc Patterns, go to the RGB High Clipping. This is essentially a clipping of the individual RGB channels that make up white. The problem with turning up contrast too high is that some of the individual channels get clipped. This in turn, makes the white either too green, red or blue. Turn down contrast until the all channels clip at about the same level.

If there does not seem to be any clipping at all for white, red, green & blue channels (highly unlikely as all digital displays will clip one channel or another), set contrast using a 100% white window (from either Calman window patterns or HCFR window patterns) to the level that pleases you eyes and is not uncomfortable.

Setting Colour/Tint
I am not going to go into this as unless you have a filter it is impossible to set this by eye. Even with a filter, the best way to set colour is to use a meter. I will add this if there is a need for this. I will explain this later as it is a complex matter.

Setting Sharpness
Setting sharpness is pretty subjective. Using the sharpness setting and the sharpness test patterns, play around with the sharpness settings to get as sharp a picture as you can while looking for halos or white edges near the black lines. Also look out for moiré and lines that seem to merge. Also, select the picture mode that reduces the artifacts. All displays have various modes, ie, dot by dot, just scan, full, wide etc. In most cases, dot by dot is the one that normally has zero over scan. Play around with them to see which one gives you the least artifacts with the sharpness setting. The Spears and Munsil disc has a better pattern to set sharpness and I have tested it with various displays. The adjustments you make in the display responds well to what you see in the test pattern that makes setting sharpness easier.

That about covers the basic settings that you can carry out without a proper meter. In order to carry out a complete calibration, you need to have a meter and complete the calibration of greyscale, gamma and colour.


This post has been edited by anfieldude: Mar 23 2010, 08:21 AM
TSanfieldude
post Mar 23 2010, 08:14 AM

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The next few areas require the use of a colorimeter or a spectrophotometer to set correctly. I will explain these briefly for now and add more detail when I get the time to complete the documentation

Greyscale
Greyscale is the calibration of the shades of white. White is the basis of colours, greyscale calibration is done to set the white shades correctly. Typically, the display controls that calibrate greyscale are labeled as white balance and have Red/Green/Blue bias/cut/gain/offset/high/low. They control the individual RGB channels that make up white.

Gamma
Gamma is a luminance measurement. This is a measurement or parameter that controls the light levels are different input levels. Setting gamma correctly is essential to the “3D” pop that people look for in a digital display. Gamma is commonly targeted by calibrators range from 2.2 – 2.5 but this depends purely on your viewing environment. Lower gamma is normally selected for high ambient light surroundings and higher gamma is for darker environments. I find targeting a gamma of 2.35 is best for semi dark environments and 2.15 for bright environments. In a dark room, a set that tracks gamma correctly at 2.35 with good black levels will produce an image that is very 3D, especially if the set also tracks good greyscale.


This post has been edited by anfieldude: Mar 23 2010, 08:23 AM
TSanfieldude
post Mar 23 2010, 08:15 AM

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Colour/Tint
Colour is a whole new can of worms. There are set colour points in the CIE chart for each colour. Red, Green and Blue are the primary colours and Cyan, Magenta and Yellow are the secondary colours. To do a proper calibration of Colour using a Colour Management System would require the use of a Spectrophotometer (colorimeters are okay as well, its just that the spectros are supposedly better in them). Each colour has its own theoretical Hue, Saturation and Lightness. The Hue and the Saturation are represented in the CIE Chart that I described earlier. A display with a good CMS would typically have independent controls to move all of the above.

The Colour controls on the different sets behave differently. On some sets, the colour control effects saturation and on others they only control lightness.

The Tint controls normally just rotate the secondary colours, however, it depends on the implementation of the display.

Saturation is a measure of how far away from the white point in the CIE chart is the particular colour. If the colour is over-saturated, it means that it is further away from the white and as such seems richer.

When hue is off, the colour seems to resemble more of a another colour rather than itself. Eg, Cyan’s hue seems to be shifted towards green instead of blue, meaning that the cyan seems to have more green than blue.

Lightness is a measure of how bright the colour is. It is possible for a colour to have accurate hue and saturation but because the lightness it wrong, it seems too bright.

All these parameters are those that are needed to be right in order for the colours to be correctly decoded accurately. I have seen numerous displays that have no controls for a CMS and the basic colour and tint just do not do much. Then, there are some displays that have all the controls you can imagine. I hope in the future all display manufacturers provide a full 3D CMS that the consumer can use to fine tune his display.


This post has been edited by anfieldude: Mar 23 2010, 08:25 AM
TSanfieldude
post Mar 23 2010, 08:18 AM

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The one thing that has happened in the past couple of years is the emergence of affordable home theater enthusiasts calibration packages that allow more and more people to calibrate displays. Along with this, the masses are adopting and understanding that calibration actually improves the overall home theater experience and adds to the excitement. With a properly calibrated set, you do not need to wonder if the pictures you are viewing are off and you can enjoy the movie more.

The choice is yours, you can either become and enthusiast and buy your own calibration software/hardware, or you can hire someone to do it for you so that you do not need to invest into this area.

I have been using Calman software for the past few years to calibrate displays of family and friends. I have been very happy with the support I have gotten from the team. The link is provided below and they ship to Malaysia.

SpectraCal Website

Another newcomer to the enthusiast and professional calibration arena is Chromapure. Their software is slightly different and their up and coming in the industry.

Chromapure

These are the 2 affordable solutions I know out in the market.

I have used Calman for a couple of years and have been following their growth for some time. The enthusiasts are lucky to have affordable solutions for home calibration with both of these players in the market.

This post has been edited by anfieldude: Mar 28 2010, 04:19 PM
zerorulez
post Mar 23 2010, 08:26 AM

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cool... finally the thread we've been longing for... nice work from calibration guru anfiel... notworthy.gif notworthy.gif
low98944
post Mar 23 2010, 08:30 AM

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Fianlly, guru give lesson to all of us. rclxm9.gif notworthy.gif
jimmyteng18
post Mar 23 2010, 08:39 AM

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Nice write-up, guru. Thks for the effort.
chewkl
post Mar 23 2010, 09:08 AM

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Mods please sticky this. thumbup.gif
serendipity168
post Mar 23 2010, 11:50 AM

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Thanks for sharing cheers.gif
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post Mar 23 2010, 11:58 AM

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TQ boss
dirtrun
post Mar 23 2010, 12:11 PM

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Hi..

To those who are reading tis thrd n hv no inkling wat he is talkin abt .. I d suggest Pm bro A and ask nicely so he ll calibrate ur display for you..

Kudos to bro A
D
echoesian
post Mar 23 2010, 01:28 PM

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Thanks for your efforts bro...
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post Mar 23 2010, 01:35 PM

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goodjob
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post Mar 23 2010, 03:23 PM

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master of display calibration gives lesson here...ya pls sticky it...
TSanfieldude
post Mar 23 2010, 06:03 PM

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Please give me some time to improve on this thread. I will be doing bit by bit. Also if there are any questions, pls ask here and I will answer and improve on the thread documentation for ease of understanding.
junwei
post Mar 23 2010, 08:59 PM

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nice work bro and thanks for the introduction to start me up on calman calibration through the phone.


QUOTE(anfieldude @ Mar 23 2010, 06:03 PM)
Please give me some time to improve on this thread. I will be doing bit by bit. Also if there are any questions, pls ask here and I will answer and improve on the thread documentation for ease of understanding.
*
gocitygo
post Mar 23 2010, 09:14 PM

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anfield, respect notworthy.gif
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post Mar 24 2010, 02:13 AM

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pinned on top!! good sharing! biggrin.gif
geforce1999
post Mar 24 2010, 09:06 AM

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Good learning from display guru here notworthy.gif
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post Mar 24 2010, 02:19 PM

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good stuff here! although i don't quite understand everything teacher Anfiel is saying.... teacher.. you mind helping me tune my 428XG? smile.gif
TSanfieldude
post Mar 28 2010, 12:10 PM

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One question that keeps coming up is :

My picture looks good already. Will I see the benefits of calibration?

My answer is:

Calibration of the display is the same as tuning of your car. When u tune ur car correctly, you will get the best of the petrol consumption that the car is capable of. You also unlock the full power capabilities of your car. Sometimes when change ur oil filter and new engine oil, as u drive ur car out of the service centre, ur car is response is smooth and u admire ur car more. However, on another note, there are people who could not care less, they look at the car as a vehicle to take u from point A to point B, occasionally complaining about mileage and sometimes annoyed about the lack of power while driving. However, they could not care less about how it performs. So there are different kinds of people and they are sensitive to diffferent things.

The same applies to display calibration. Calibrating ur display brings the best out of display that it is capable of producing. In most cases, it helps to save electricity consumption as u calibrate the display to the optimum based on ur environment. When a display is properly calibrated (this depends on different display capabilities, u cannot compare a Ferrari to a local car, same applies to displays), u get proper flesh tones, u do not need to wonder if the director purposely skewed the hues of the colours or not, since ur display is calibrated to HD standards. U then get the best of ur display.

Can it be seen by ur eyes? If u look and pay attention, of course it can, same like when u get ur car tuned.

Some people choose to ignore it. Some don't. It's ur choice.


gocitygo
post Mar 28 2010, 12:57 PM

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Anfield, I'm using Xrite i1 with ColorHCFR on my projector. While doing greyscale calibration, I found out the Red too high in the original setting. I have to adjust the Red and Blue (RGB Gain/Offset) to get the 6500K target. The RGB post calibration looks OK but the Gamma is about 1.9 instead target 2.2. Is there anything missing here? notworthy.gif

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TSanfieldude
post Mar 28 2010, 04:01 PM

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QUOTE(gocitygo @ Mar 28 2010, 12:57 PM)
Anfield, I'm using Xrite i1 with ColorHCFR on my projector.  While doing greyscale calibration, I found out the Red too high in the original setting.  I have to adjust the Red and Blue (RGB Gain/Offset) to get the 6500K target.  The RGB post calibration looks OK but the Gamma is about 1.9 instead target 2.2.  Is there anything missing here?  notworthy.gif

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gocitygo,

What picture mode did u start with on the optoma? What gamma did u select?

I believe ur initial gamma that u selected was averaging 1.8 to start. I think u either choose Cinema or PC gamma. I believe Cinema starts at 2.35 and PC is closer to 2.2.

Check and let me know and I will help u with it.

I have calibrated a HD65 b4 and could easily track a gamma of 2.35 for a dark room.
gocitygo
post Mar 28 2010, 04:16 PM

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Thanks for grand sifu help.

Original setting:
display mode = cinema
degamma = film

New setting;
display mode = cinema
degamma = video

Is that always tunes with R/B instead of G (RGB gains/offset) in greyscale calibration? In my case, I cutdown R gain a lots (-22). Not sure it will cause the color composition to off red? I'm not able to do Color calibration due to HD-65 limitation of CMS.
TSanfieldude
post Mar 28 2010, 04:25 PM

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QUOTE(gocitygo @ Mar 28 2010, 04:16 PM)
Thanks for grand sifu help. 

Original setting:
display mode = cinema
degamma = film

New setting;
display mode = cinema
degamma = video

Is that always tunes with R/B instead of G (RGB gains/offset) in greyscale calibration?  In my case, I cutdown R gain a lots (-22).  Not sure it will cause the color composition to off red?  I'm not able to do Color calibration due to HD-65 limitation of CMS.
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gocitygo,

I believe I used cinema and film as well. Try PC in gamma and it should be better.

Is this a i2 display lt?

There are 2 trains of thought on what is the best way to achieve D65. I normally follow the "not touching green" camp but occasionally I add +1/-1 to green to improve on the cals.

U can try adding green as well.

What is the life of ur lamp? Are u using eco mode?

Can u refresh my memory on what other display modes were there?
gocitygo
post Mar 28 2010, 04:42 PM

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The lamp is about 200hrs (STD mode). Yes, I'm using i1 Display LT, the affordable version smile.gif

Display mode = Cinema/Bright/Photo/TV/User.

Degamma = Film/Video/Graphic/PC. I tried Film before but giving unstable D65 across IRE. Will try PC mode as you suggest.

BTW, I set ZERO both Brilliant Color & True Vivid setting. Image AI = Off and Color Temp = Medium.

This post has been edited by gocitygo: Mar 28 2010, 04:46 PM
TSanfieldude
post Mar 28 2010, 05:16 PM

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QUOTE(gocitygo @ Mar 28 2010, 04:42 PM)
The lamp is about 200hrs (STD mode).  Yes, I'm using i1 Display LT, the affordable version smile.gif

Display mode = Cinema/Bright/Photo/TV/User.

Degamma = Film/Video/Graphic/PC.  I tried Film before but giving unstable D65 across IRE.  Will try PC mode as you suggest.

BTW, I set ZERO both Brilliant Color & True Vivid setting.  Image AI = Off and Color Temp = Medium.
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Another thing to try would be colour temperature low as it would be more red to start with.
pierreye
post Mar 28 2010, 05:24 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Mar 28 2010, 04:25 PM)
gocitygo,

I believe I used cinema and film as well. Try PC in gamma and it should be better.

Is this a i2 display lt?

There are 2 trains of thought on what is the best way to achieve D65. I normally follow the "not touching green" camp but occasionally I add +1/-1 to green to improve on the cals.

U can try adding green as well.

What is the life of ur lamp? Are u using eco mode?

Can u refresh my memory on what other display modes were there?
*
Just my 2 cents, normally I'll try to find out the display deficiency in which color. That would be your cap. For example, majority of the UHP lamp is red deficient. You will see that it will run out of red when approaching 100% White. In this case as an example, if +512 is the highest number, I'll cap red at +512 and adjust Green and Blue to match D65. This would ensure you have the smoothest D65 greyscale tracking. Another option is just ignore the red deficiency issue as long as 90% white is D65. This is to get good greyscale up to 90% white but give you a bit more brightness at 100% white (You seldom have movies with lots of 100% white on screen).

This post has been edited by pierreye: Mar 28 2010, 05:26 PM
gocitygo
post Mar 28 2010, 05:26 PM

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Would give that a try. Thanks. icon_rolleyes.gif

Anyone else doing own calibration? It is a good platform to exchange idea thumbup.gif
yltan
post Mar 28 2010, 08:21 PM

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QUOTE(gocitygo @ Mar 28 2010, 05:26 PM)
Would give that a try.  Thanks.  icon_rolleyes.gif

Anyone else doing own calibration?  It is a good platform to exchange idea  thumbup.gif
*
Planning to start calibrate my projector using the DVE Essential soon.

Maybe gocitygo can share how you do your calibration using Xrite i1.
TSanfieldude
post Mar 28 2010, 09:16 PM

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QUOTE(pierreye @ Mar 28 2010, 05:24 PM)
Just my 2 cents, normally I'll try to find out the display deficiency in which color. That would be your cap. For example, majority of the UHP lamp is red deficient. You will see that it will run out of red when approaching 100% White. In this case as an example, if +512 is the highest number, I'll cap red at +512 and adjust Green and Blue to match D65. This would ensure you have the smoothest D65 greyscale tracking. Another option is just ignore the red deficiency issue as long as 90% white is D65. This is to get good greyscale up to 90% white but give you a bit more brightness at 100% white (You seldom have movies with lots of 100% white on screen).
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If u r running out of any particular colour, u r probably clipping that channel. The easiest way to fix that would be to reduce contrast until u stop clipping. Of course, if that is reducing ur luminance too much, then u need to compromise. I agree with you that I would compromise on the higher end rather than the mid and low end.
chewkl
post Apr 1 2010, 09:46 AM

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Bro Anfieldude, what do U think about the new Panny S2 calibrated results on the 2nd post here?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1232441
TSanfieldude
post Apr 1 2010, 01:29 PM

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QUOTE(chewkl @ Apr 1 2010, 09:46 AM)
Bro Anfieldude, what do U think about the new Panny S2 calibrated results on the 2nd post here?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1232441
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Slightly better than last year. However, the gamma is the same and that is a major issue in my book. Colour decoding slightly better, greyscale slightly better. Green cast still there and needs calibration to remove.
chewkl
post Apr 1 2010, 02:12 PM

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Thanks bro. Will be waiting for Sammy's 2010 plasma panel then. biggrin.gif
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post Apr 1 2010, 03:48 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Mar 28 2010, 12:10 PM)
One question that keeps coming up is :

My picture looks good already. Will I see the benefits of calibration?
*
To add to anfield's post, it is definitely possible to see the benefits of calibration. If your display is off in the first place, the difference can be quite apparent. Or if you have a large display, again more apparent.

Anfield was kind enough to help calibrate my projector and I could start seeing the difference even though the optimal potential of the projector had not been reached yet.
TSanfieldude
post Apr 1 2010, 04:06 PM

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QUOTE(chewkl @ Apr 1 2010, 02:12 PM)
Thanks bro. Will be waiting for Sammy's 2010 plasma panel then. biggrin.gif
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I hope u find what u r looking for. Just remember, there is no perfect display. All have their strengths and weaknesses.
chewkl
post Apr 1 2010, 04:13 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Apr 1 2010, 04:06 PM)
I hope u find what u r looking for. Just remember, there is no perfect display. All have their strengths and weaknesses.
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With all due respect, U are wrong bro. KRP is perfect to me, just that I can't afford it. cry.gif
dirtrun
post Apr 1 2010, 05:28 PM

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QUOTE(yltan @ Mar 28 2010, 08:21 PM)
Planning to start calibrate my projector using the DVE Essential soon.

Maybe gocitygo can share how you do your calibration using Xrite i1.
*

Hmmnn..

I tink those using DVE n Avia calibration discs are jus touchin de surface here.. Bro A here uses much more advanced ways to calibrate..
Not tat I m knockin those 2 sofware.. I use them myself..

One gud pt - will I see a difference after calibration.. I guess it also depends how far u hv gone into tis hobby.. the further in u r then u tend to look for problms instead of luking at de big picture .. anal, maybe but its true.. fortunately for me .. I m so blur tat I dont see much deficiencies in my peasant system la..

Kekeke tongue.gif
D


Added on April 1, 2010, 5:28 pm
QUOTE(chewkl @ Apr 1 2010, 04:13 PM)
With all due respect, U are wrong bro. KRP is perfect to me, just that I can't afford it. cry.gif
*
Haha..

Pure case of YMMV.. woh..

This post has been edited by dirtrun: Apr 1 2010, 05:28 PM
TSanfieldude
post Apr 1 2010, 05:32 PM

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QUOTE(chewkl @ Apr 1 2010, 04:13 PM)
With all due respect, U are wrong bro. KRP is perfect to me, just that I can't afford it. cry.gif
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The KRP also has its flaws...
chewkl
post Apr 2 2010, 08:34 AM

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I guess it is as close as it can get to perfect, at least for a couple of years more before the other players catch up and exceed it. smile.gif
pierreye
post Apr 2 2010, 10:48 AM

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If you look for perfect display, it must have the following ingredient.

1. Meet or exceed 100% for CIE gamut.
2. 11 point gamma correction.
3. greyscale colour temperature control (RGB gain/cut)
4. full working 3D CMS.
5. Very low black level.

Then with a good probe, you can adjust it to the BT.709 colorspace standard. Unless you are still watching DVD, you need to recheck BT.601 colorspace too.

This post has been edited by pierreye: Apr 2 2010, 11:05 AM
yltan
post Apr 2 2010, 11:48 AM

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[quote=dirtrun,Apr 1 2010, 05:28 PM]
Hmmnn..

I tink those using DVE n Avia calibration discs are jus touchin de surface here.. Bro A here uses much more advanced ways to calibrate..
Not tat I m knockin those 2 sofware.. I use them myself..

That is what I have. But you need to have the filter for DVE. Maybe Anfield can help do calibrate for my projector?
dirtrun
post Apr 2 2010, 12:14 PM

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QUOTE(yltan @ Apr 2 2010, 11:48 AM)
That is what I have. But you need to have the filter for DVE. Maybe Anfield can help do calibrate for my projector?
*

Pm.. him ..

He is veri accomodatin..

On de filters.. U mean DVE dont include de filters?? My Ovations Avia includes tis in de pckg.. thou' its only d plastic colored tingy..

D

pierreye
post Apr 2 2010, 04:12 PM

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If your projector had blue only mode (which turn off red and green) then you don't need the filter. Even the tint/color control is not accurate based on the Calman reading. If you have CMS, just leave tint/color at default. It's very easy to screw up the color using tint/saturation control.
TSanfieldude
post Apr 2 2010, 04:39 PM

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QUOTE(pierreye @ Apr 2 2010, 04:12 PM)
If your projector had  blue only mode (which turn off red and green) then you don't need the filter. Even the tint/color  control is not accurate based on the Calman reading. If you have CMS, just leave tint/color at default. It's very easy to screw up the color using tint/saturation control.
*
My personal opinion is that for getting colours right, u need a meter (preferably a spectro). Also a working CMS is a must, else the display must track Rec 709 accurately. But a 3D CMS is the way to go.
formalin
post Apr 9 2010, 02:12 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Apr 1 2010, 05:32 PM)
The KRP also has its flaws...
*
Bro anfieldude,

It is possible to post the best possible setting for KRP-500A ?? icon_question.gif

This post has been edited by formalin: Apr 9 2010, 02:13 PM
TSanfieldude
post Apr 9 2010, 03:08 PM

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QUOTE(formalin @ Apr 9 2010, 02:12 PM)
Bro anfieldude,

It is possible to post the best possible setting for KRP-500A ??  icon_question.gif
*
I don't have a KRP-500A to do that.
asherteoh
post Apr 9 2010, 08:44 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Apr 9 2010, 03:08 PM)
I don't have a KRP-500A to do that.
*
he has 600M tongue.gif
opjust
post Apr 16 2010, 07:11 PM

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anyone has callibrate toshiba zv?
TSanfieldude
post Apr 21 2010, 09:11 PM

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All,

Do let me know what other stuff you would like me to cover in Display Calibration or anything related to something that is not brand or technology specific. I will try to put more details in the 1st page. If there is enuf interest, I don't mind adding a step by step calibration guide to use a meter to calibrate. However, there are others that do it well.
junwei
post Apr 24 2010, 11:03 PM

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Bro anfieldude can setup a team to train video calibration in Penang and those interested can fly there, pay a fee n attend the course n share ideas together. and if anfieldude doesn't wanna to collect the fee, we can donate it to charity :)hehe


Added on April 24, 2010, 11:09 pmFrom what I've read so far in this thread, people who is interested and have technical knowledge will probably understand at least 60% and above of what is mentioned here.

The rest are probably scratching their heads trying to figure out what those terms (d65,rec 709, +512, 3D CMS, etc).

Maybe do a simple definitions on what these terms and meanings are.
like, why we need to get D65 and what it means, etc tongue.gif

Then everyone will understand further.


This post has been edited by junwei: Apr 24 2010, 11:09 PM
TSanfieldude
post Apr 27 2010, 06:02 PM

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QUOTE(junwei @ Apr 24 2010, 11:03 PM)
Bro anfieldude can setup a team to train video calibration in Penang and those interested can fly there, pay a fee n attend the course n share ideas together. and if anfieldude doesn't wanna to collect the fee, we can donate it to charity :)hehe


Added on April 24, 2010, 11:09 pmFrom what I've read so far in this thread, people who is interested and have technical knowledge will probably understand at least 60% and above of what is mentioned here.

The rest are probably scratching their heads trying to figure out what those terms (d65,rec 709, +512, 3D CMS, etc).

Maybe do a simple definitions on what these terms and meanings are.
like, why we need to get D65 and what it means, etc tongue.gif

Then everyone will understand further.
*
Thanks for the suggestion. I will update the material when I get the chance.
Alias
post Apr 28 2010, 10:02 PM

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anfielddude,
apart from the sizes (600m & 500a), is there any more difference in terms of specs and hardware between those two?
TSanfieldude
post Apr 29 2010, 11:42 AM

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QUOTE(Alias @ Apr 28 2010, 10:02 PM)
anfielddude,
apart from the sizes (600m & 500a), is there any more difference in terms of specs and hardware between those two?
*
I posted the reply in the Pioneer Thread. See link below.

Link to Pioneer Thread

This post has been edited by anfieldude: Apr 29 2010, 11:44 AM
gocitygo
post May 2 2010, 09:45 AM

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-edit-

This post has been edited by gocitygo: May 2 2010, 09:47 AM
gocitygo
post May 2 2010, 10:20 AM

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Anfield & Gang, my first calibration on 508XG. Any suggesting for further improvement is most welcome. notworthy.gif

At first, I was surprise to see the Gamma curve shocking.gif , too good to be true on the original setting. Until I realized the RGB and Color Temp were quite off.

The whole calibration process took so long (~3 hrs) for newbie like me. At one hand look for how-to procedures and on other the hand try to familiarize the software. But the whole learning process is fun and rewarding. Better do it at late night so that no one is ka-ka-chau-chau. I really recommend AV enthusiasts to try on this, either DIY or pay professional calibrators to do it. Imaging the significant improvement you can get from the existing hardwares just with a small price to invest versus your HT investment cost. Now, I'm realize for almost 30yrs, I am looking at something off the standard laugh.gif

On the CIE curves, I found the R & G points slightly off from target. Already tried on the CMS setting and still cannot get the (x,y) on the dot. Any suggestion?

Attached Image

Attached Image

Attached Image

Attached Image

Attached Image

Note:
a) Meter: Xrite i1 display LT.
b) Software: Color HCFR, Color space standard: HDTV-REC 709
c) Test disc: AVS HD 709
d) Left graph with original settings and right graph with new settings.


This post has been edited by gocitygo: May 2 2010, 11:47 AM
TSanfieldude
post May 2 2010, 11:16 AM

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QUOTE(gocitygo @ May 2 2010, 10:20 AM)
Anfield & Gang,  my first calibration on 508XG. Any suggesting for further improvement is most welcome.  notworthy.gif

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
gocitygo,

Pls post the .chc file so I can take a look a the data.

I suppose u calibrated in Colour Space 2 and the 1st graph is with Colour Space 1.

For the Pio's I would not touch the CMS more than +/- 2 clicks as it effects greyscale quite badly. I suspect there is some clipping but let me take a look a the chc file bfore I comment.

gocitygo
post May 2 2010, 11:39 AM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ May 2 2010, 11:16 AM)
gocitygo,

Pls post the .chc file so I can take a look a the data.

I suppose u calibrated in Colour Space 2 and the 1st graph is with Colour Space 1.

For the Pio's I would not touch the CMS more than +/- 2 clicks as it effects greyscale quite badly. I suspect there is some clipping but let me take a look a the chc file bfore I comment.
*
Wow, you are keng chau. Yes, the original with Color Space 1 and the new with Color Space 2. I found out the Color Space 1 too much Red and need to cut a lots during Grayscale calibration.

If don't adjust the CMS too much, how to get the (x,y) for the Primary & Secondary colors?

Attached is the chc files. Thanks

This post has been edited by gocitygo: May 2 2010, 11:56 AM


Attached File(s)
Attached File  508XG.zip ( 5.25k ) Number of downloads: 49
TSanfieldude
post May 2 2010, 01:42 PM

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QUOTE(gocitygo @ May 2 2010, 11:39 AM)
Wow, you are keng chau.  Yes, the original with Color Space 1 and the new with Color Space 2. I found out the Color Space 1 too much Red and need to cut a lots during Grayscale calibration.

If don't adjust the CMS too much, how to get the (x,y) for the Primary & Secondary colors?

Attached is the chc files.  Thanks
*
gocitygo,

1stly, the red point on ur CIE chart is not accurate as u used the Display i1LT. This is a known issue. Also ur green point is also not accurate. Selecting colour space 2 on the 8G actually gets ur primaries almost spot on. So the CMS is unnecessary.

Also, I think u can decrease the Red High by one click and try to improve ur greyscale. At the moment, there is an excess of red by a bit.

However, I would not do too much as it might be off due to the meter and not the actual. After the calibration, did u pull up a greycale ramp and confirm that there is not red tint/blue tint in the grey? Also pls do pm me ur final greyscale numbers (rgb gain/offset). I suspect that the meter might be reading red too low and u might be boosting too much. There is a known problem with the display i1lt with the Kuros due to PWM and it normally either reads red or green channels wrongly.

Either way, ur methods seem correct. Good start.

On the primary and secondaries, I believe u used 100% colours instead of 75% colours. 75% might be better as to not allow the APL to kick in on the plasmas.
gocitygo
post May 2 2010, 04:34 PM

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Bro Anfield, thanks for the sharing.


TSanfieldude
post May 2 2010, 08:07 PM

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QUOTE(gocitygo @ May 2 2010, 04:34 PM)
Bro Anfield, thanks for the sharing.
*
gocitygo,

My pleasure. Also when u start getting more advance, the Calman software is much better than HCFR in the options for the charts and some dynamic charts that help calibration quite a bit.
ameenskywalker
post May 4 2010, 01:26 AM

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quick question... where do i get all these calibration BD like DVE HD Basics ?
TSanfieldude
post May 4 2010, 05:16 PM

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QUOTE(ameenskywalker @ May 4 2010, 01:26 AM)
quick question... where do i get all these calibration BD like DVE HD Basics ?
*
Amazon is a good place to start. I have seen it in some AV shops but it is expensive. Maybe u can get one of the forumers who frequently sells BDs to bring it for u.

PM arj, mpwy among others.
madmoz
post May 7 2010, 05:32 PM

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i am terrible at this kinda thing... i wonder how much will it cost to have someone calibrate my sony klv40v550 for me?
TSanfieldude
post May 10 2010, 08:36 AM

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QUOTE(madmoz @ May 7 2010, 05:32 PM)
i am terrible at this kinda thing... i wonder how much will it cost to have someone calibrate my sony klv40v550 for me?
*
Pls PM me for further details.
ediaikau
post Jun 1 2010, 11:46 PM

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anfieldude sifu, i own a tosh 42 rv600e, how much does it cost to calibrate it? any cheaper alternatives?
TSanfieldude
post Jun 2 2010, 10:05 AM

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QUOTE(ediaikau @ Jun 1 2010, 11:46 PM)
anfieldude sifu, i own a tosh 42 rv600e, how much does it cost to calibrate it? any cheaper alternatives?
*
Pls PM with details and we can discuss there.
darenlks
post Jun 7 2010, 01:04 PM

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Anfieldude,

Uploaded the printscreens on my calibration result for my ZV. Click spoiler to view. Pls let me know any improvement needed based on the result smile.gif

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Edit : Added Color Data images and uploaded .chc files Attached File  ZV600E.zip ( 7.65k ) Number of downloads: 28


Actually I've started my calibration using Moive mode (This mode has the lowest brightness pre-set amongst all other modes available in this tv) but the end result is the picture is quite dark and can't bear with it after few hours watching, so I've done another round of calibration using Standard mode instead and found it much better to suit my room environment

This post has been edited by darenlks: Jun 7 2010, 01:49 PM
TSanfieldude
post Jun 7 2010, 01:09 PM

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QUOTE(darenlks @ Jun 7 2010, 01:04 PM)
Anfieldude,

Uploaded the printscreens on my calibration result for my ZV. Click spoiler to view. Pls let me know any improvement needed based on the result  smile.gif 

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Actually I've started my calibration using Moive mode (This mode has the lowest brightness pre-set amongst all other modes available in this tv) but the end result is the picture is quite dark and can't bear with it after few hours watching, so I've done another round of calibration using Standard mode instead and found it much better to suit my room environment
*
daren,

Post the .chc file as it would be easier for me to load the data and look at it on with HCFR.
TSanfieldude
post Jun 7 2010, 01:12 PM

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QUOTE(darenlks @ Jun 7 2010, 01:04 PM)
Anfieldude,

Uploaded the printscreens on my calibration result for my ZV. Click spoiler to view. Pls let me know any improvement needed based on the result  smile.gif 

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Actually I've started my calibration using Moive mode (This mode has the lowest brightness pre-set amongst all other modes available in this tv) but the end result is the picture is quite dark and can't bear with it after few hours watching, so I've done another round of calibration using Standard mode instead and found it much better to suit my room environment
*
Daren,

Are these results for Standard Mode? Or Movie Mode?

The greyscale looks pretty good. There does not seem to be any data in the CIE chart. Did u do the colours?
darenlks
post Jun 7 2010, 01:34 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Jun 7 2010, 01:12 PM)
Daren,

Are these results for Standard Mode? Or Movie Mode?

The greyscale looks pretty good. There does not seem to be any data in the CIE chart. Did u do the colours?
*
These results using Standard Mode. The result for Movie mode is qutie similar just that it has much lower contrast but with Gamma value set to -8 in my tv setting while Standard mode is set to -9 while maintaining higher contrast and backlight level to get close to 2.2 gamma.

ehh...how to upload the .chc files ? hmm.gif

Edit : Found the option to upload files blush.gif

This post has been edited by darenlks: Jun 7 2010, 01:42 PM
TSanfieldude
post Jun 7 2010, 01:39 PM

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QUOTE(darenlks @ Jun 7 2010, 01:34 PM)
These results using Standard Mode. The result for Movie mode is qutie similar just that it has much lower contrast but with Gamma value set to -8 in my tv setting while Standard mode is set to -9 while maintaining higher contrast and backlight level to get close to 2.2 gamma.

ehh...how to upload the .chc files ?  hmm.gif
*
U shd be able to just upload a file in the attachment portion.
darenlks
post Jun 7 2010, 01:44 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Jun 7 2010, 01:39 PM)
U shd be able to just upload a file in the attachment portion.
*
Yup, found it. Didn't scroll to the bottom enough to see the option tongue.gif

I've also included the calibration result using Movie mode in the zip file
TSanfieldude
post Jun 7 2010, 03:30 PM

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QUOTE(darenlks @ Jun 7 2010, 01:44 PM)
Yup, found it. Didn't scroll to the bottom enough to see the option  tongue.gif

I've also included the calibration result using Movie mode in the zip file
*
daren,

The last test u shd do is the saturation shift and luminance shift test. This shd be the measures "saturation" section. This will tell if the mode u hv selected is linear at all colour saturation.

But your results are very good. All in all the display behaves quite well. Black levels are pretty decent. Greyscale tracks very well. The 10% and 20% have a blue tinge, but it is impossible to remove without messing up the greyscale.

Did u do the colours at 100% patterns? It looks like u did at 100%. I would advise u to redo it at 75% brightness to see if it is also tracking well. It is better to do the colours at 75% brightness as it is more representative of the actual real world colour luminance. Also HCFR does not show the colour luminance charts accuracy. Did u change anything after ur greyscale calibration on contrast? This is becoz, if u look at ur 100% white during the colour calibration it is almost 30cd/m2 higher than during greyscale. Anyway, based on ur colour calibration, ur red and green luminance (Brightness) needs to be boosted by almost 1%. Ur blue luminance is too high and needs to be reduced. Ur yellow and cyan luminances are way too low and ur magenta is too high. Since u hv a cms, I would suggest to bring this down. The targets for the luminance for hd colour space for red, green, blue, yellow, cyan, magenta is 21.2%, 71.5%, 7.21%, 78.7%, 28.5% and 92.8%. Ur hue for the secondaries are pretty good, the blue and green saturations are off and I doubt u can do anything about them. But I suggest u get the brightness corrected for each colour. Right now ur colour luminances are imbalanced. With the CMS u shd be able to dial it in. This is one of the drawbacks of the HCFR software that does not show the third dimension in the CIE chart.

But kudos on ur 1st calibration. The set seems to track gamma and greyscale very well and is aplus. The colour needs to be further refined.
gocitygo
post Jun 7 2010, 07:54 PM

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QUOTE(darenlks @ Jun 7 2010, 01:04 PM)
Anfieldude,

Uploaded the printscreens on my calibration result for my ZV. Click spoiler to view. Pls let me know any improvement needed based on the result   smile.gif 

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Edit : Added Color Data images and uploaded .chc files Attached File  ZV600E.zip ( 7.65k ) Number of downloads: 28


Actually I've started my calibration using Moive mode (This mode has the lowest brightness pre-set amongst all other modes available in this tv) but the end result is the picture is quite dark and can't bear with it after few hours watching, so I've done another round of calibration using Standard mode instead and found it much better to suit my room environment
*
Welcome to the club rclxms.gif . Great to see more kaki into DIY Cal.

Be ready to poison by master Anfield.... he he

What meter you are using?

This post has been edited by gocitygo: Jun 7 2010, 09:42 PM
darenlks
post Jun 7 2010, 08:47 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Jun 7 2010, 03:30 PM)
daren,

The last test u shd do is the saturation shift and luminance shift test.  This shd be the measures "saturation" section. This will tell if the mode u hv selected is linear at all colour saturation.

But your results are very good. All in all the display behaves quite well. Black levels are pretty decent. Greyscale tracks very well. The 10% and 20% have a blue tinge, but it is impossible to remove without messing up the greyscale.

Did u do the colours at 100% patterns? It looks like u did at 100%. I would advise u to redo it at 75% brightness to see if it is also tracking well. It is better to do the colours at 75% brightness as it is more representative of the actual real world colour luminance. Also HCFR does not show the colour luminance charts accuracy. Did u change anything after ur greyscale calibration on contrast? This is becoz, if u look at ur 100% white during the colour calibration it is almost 30cd/m2 higher than during greyscale. Anyway, based on ur colour calibration, ur red and green luminance (Brightness) needs to be boosted by almost 1%. Ur blue luminance is too high and needs to be reduced. Ur yellow and cyan luminances are way too low and ur magenta is too high. Since u hv a cms, I would suggest to bring this down. The targets for the luminance for hd colour space for red, green, blue, yellow, cyan, magenta is 21.2%, 71.5%, 7.21%, 78.7%, 28.5% and 92.8%.  Ur hue for the secondaries are pretty good, the blue and green saturations are off and I doubt u can do anything about them. But I suggest u get the brightness corrected for each colour. Right now ur colour luminances are imbalanced. With the CMS u shd be able to dial it in. This is one of the drawbacks of the HCFR software that does not show the third dimension in the CIE chart.

But kudos on ur 1st calibration. The set seems to track gamma and greyscale very well and is aplus. The colour needs to be further refined.
*
Spot on bro. I followed the dummy guide which asked me to skip the rest and straight to the 100% saturation patterns. Will redo it at 75% as advised.

The contrast was set before greyscale calibration so the only changes I could think of was that I did tweak around the Color setting in my tv user menu during RGB colors adjustment but decreased it back later to the original setting. Then I proceed to do the Tint control adjustment but didn't manage to get the balanced adjustment amongst Cyan, Magenta and Yellow as not able to get all of their color coordinates close to the desired values. I then proceed to measure all the primary and secondary colors by adjusting the Hue, Saturation and Brightness values in CMS, aiming to get all colors below 10 of deltaE. This was where I could see both Blue and Magenta are above 10 and the rest are good at 4-7 range. The problematic was the Blue, its reading even reached 20 ! By continuous adjusting the both colors in CMS, finally managed to keep them below 10 of deltaE. The adjustment was done pretty much based on the deltaE values as my guide sweat.gif. Will have to spend more time adjusting each color.

Btw, the luminance % of hd color space you mentioned, are they based on the 100% or 75% White luminance since you advise to redo it at 75% ?


Added on June 7, 2010, 8:49 pm
QUOTE(gocitygo @ Jun 7 2010, 07:54 PM)
Welcome to the club  rclxms.gif .  Great to me more kaki into DIY Cal.

Be ready to poison by master Anfield.... he he

What meter you are using?
*
Follow your footstep, i2display lt icon_rolleyes.gif

This post has been edited by darenlks: Jun 7 2010, 08:49 PM
TSanfieldude
post Jun 7 2010, 09:39 PM

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QUOTE(darenlks @ Jun 7 2010, 08:47 PM)
Spot on bro. I followed the dummy guide which asked me to skip the rest and straight to the 100% saturation patterns. Will redo it at 75% as advised.

The contrast was set before greyscale calibration so the only changes I could think of was that I did tweak around the Color setting in my tv user menu during RGB colors adjustment but decreased it back later to the original setting. Then I proceed to do the Tint control adjustment but didn't manage to get the balanced adjustment amongst Cyan, Magenta and Yellow as not able to get all of their color coordinates close to the desired values. I then proceed to measure all the primary and secondary colors by adjusting the Hue, Saturation and Brightness values in CMS, aiming to get all colors below 10 of deltaE. This was where I could see both Blue and Magenta are above 10 and the rest are good at 4-7 range. The problematic was the Blue, its reading even reached 20 ! By continuous adjusting the both colors in CMS, finally managed to keep them below 10 of deltaE. The adjustment was done pretty much based on the deltaE values as my guide sweat.gif. Will have to spend more time adjusting each color.

Btw, the luminance % of hd color space you mentioned, are they based on the 100% or 75% White luminance since you advise to redo it at 75% ?


Added on June 7, 2010, 8:49 pm

Follow your footstep, i2display lt  icon_rolleyes.gif
*
daren,

It does not matter whether its 100% or 75% as long as the corresponding white pattern is the same value. However, there are some displays that will show different results between them. A good set shd not, but many sets do. So my suggestion is to use 75% patterns as it will a better reflection of what u will display most of the time. U do not need to use the colour and tint settings since ur set has a full cms. The one thing that I told u about is the Y value of the colours. This is the brightness control on ur CMS for each colour. HCFR does not ever show it on any chart but use the % I showed u earlier and change the brightness of each colour until u achieve the % for each one. The math is simple Y of the colour/Y of white at the same brightness. If a colour in the beginning is already inside the triangle, it means that the colour is undersaturated. There is no way to oversaturate it ever, so select a mode that starts outside the CIE triangle to bring it in.

The actual Delta E that shd be used for colour is 1994 DeltaE. However, HCFR uses Delta E UV which is not accurate for colour as it does not take into consideration the Y value. My suggestion is to get ur hands wet with HCFR then move on to Chromapure or Calman and then u can get a better representation of the calibration results.

Then do the saturation charts as that is an important indicator on what happens at lower saturations. If u find that u are getting bad shifts in saturation and luminance at different saturations, u might need to stop using the CMS as it does more harm than good.
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post Jun 8 2010, 12:11 AM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Jun 7 2010, 09:39 PM)
daren,

It does not matter whether its 100% or 75% as long as the corresponding white pattern is the same value. However, there are some displays that will show different results between them. A good set shd not, but many sets do. So my suggestion is to use 75% patterns as it will a better reflection of what u will display most of the time. U do not need to use the colour and tint settings since ur set has a full cms. The one thing that I told u about is the Y value of the colours. This is the brightness control on ur CMS for each colour. HCFR does not ever show it on any chart but use the % I showed u earlier and change the brightness of each colour until u achieve the % for each one. The math is simple Y of the colour/Y of white at the same brightness. If a colour in the beginning is already inside the triangle, it means that the colour is undersaturated. There is no way to oversaturate it ever, so select a mode that starts outside the CIE triangle to bring it in.

The actual Delta E that shd be used for colour is 1994 DeltaE. However, HCFR uses Delta E UV which is not accurate for colour as it does not take into consideration the Y value. My suggestion is to get ur hands wet with HCFR then move on to Chromapure or Calman and then u can get a better representation of the calibration results.

Then do the saturation charts as that is an important indicator on what happens at lower saturations. If u find that u are getting bad shifts in saturation and luminance at different saturations, u might need to stop using the CMS as it does more harm than good.
*
Thanks. Now I understand better what you meant. This is helpful for my next calibration on CMS smile.gif
TSanfieldude
post Jun 9 2010, 10:06 AM

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QUOTE(darenlks @ Jun 8 2010, 12:11 AM)
Thanks. Now I understand better what you meant. This is helpful for my next calibration on CMS  smile.gif
*
Post the charts when u get round to checking it again. Also the saturation charts. U might find that playing with the CMS might not be a good idea or the initial colour mode u selected was not linear at all saturations. That does more harm than actually having a good post calibrated chart.
dynamike
post Jun 16 2010, 09:59 AM

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Hi to all. Ive just bought a Panasonic 42x28k yesterday...Can anyone care to share display setting or charts for the plasma after break in? Only as a guide...Ive dont have the gadgets,cant play with it. Thank you.
cslee007
post Jun 30 2010, 11:11 AM

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Hi, sifus.

I had bought Panasonic plasma TH-P42X10k, a HD ready with 1024 x 768 pixels.
Applicable scanning format:
525 (480)/60i
525 (480)/60P
625 (576)/50i
625 (576)/50P
750 (720)/60P
1125 (1080)/50i
1125 (1080)/60i
1125 (1080)/24P (HDMI only)
1125 (1080)/50P (HDMI only)
1125 (1080)/60P (HDMI only)

I had connected Philips DVD player dvp3126k with component cable to the plasma. The displays only show 576i. Am I supposed to get 576i or better display of 720 or 1080?
Or am I messing up with the setting?

Btw, what is 50i & 50P?

TSanfieldude
post Jun 30 2010, 02:29 PM

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QUOTE(cslee007 @ Jun 30 2010, 11:11 AM)
Hi, sifus.

I had bought Panasonic plasma TH-P42X10k, a HD ready with 1024 x 768 pixels.
Applicable scanning format:
525 (480)/60i
525 (480)/60P
625 (576)/50i
625 (576)/50P
750 (720)/60P
1125 (1080)/50i
1125 (1080)/60i
1125 (1080)/24P (HDMI only)
1125 (1080)/50P (HDMI only)
1125 (1080)/60P (HDMI only)

I had connected Philips DVD player dvp3126k with component cable to the plasma. The displays only show 576i. Am I supposed to get 576i or better display of 720 or 1080?
Or am I messing up with the setting?

Btw, what is 50i & 50P?
*
Does ur DVD upscale thru component? Else, choose from 576i or 576p on ur DVD player and see which looks better to ur eyes.

Some players do not upscale thru component so ur choices are only 576i/p.

Some players upscale thru HDMI, try if u hv and see which looks better to ur eyes. Whatever u display receives will be scaled by its internal chip to 1024 X 768.

Again, upscaling is not the same as actually having an HD source.
TSanfieldude
post Jul 16 2010, 02:04 PM

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All,

Spectracal is currently carrying a special on the I1 Display2 for a price of USD49 for the meter alone. For those, who do not want the software and want to use HCFR then this is a good time to buy as it is really cheap. I would adivse to buy it with Calman software, as Calman V4.0 is really good and easy to use however, if u do not want the USD49 is really a good price. Its a good way to start calibrating ur display.

This post has been edited by anfieldude: Jul 16 2010, 02:07 PM
chewkl
post Jul 16 2010, 02:21 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Jul 16 2010, 02:04 PM)
All,

Spectracal is currently carrying a special on the I1 Display2 for a price of USD49 for the meter alone. For those, who do not want the software and want to use HCFR then this is a good time to buy as it is really cheap. I would adivse to buy it with Calman software, as Calman V4.0 is really good and easy to use however, if u do not want the USD49 is really a good price. Its a good way to start calibrating ur display.
*
Where can it be had for USD49?
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post Jul 16 2010, 02:59 PM

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QUOTE(chewkl @ Jul 16 2010, 02:21 PM)
Where can it be had for USD49?
*
Spectracal Store

I have attached a link above. Pls remember that this is a colorimeter.
chewkl
post Jul 16 2010, 03:05 PM

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Thanks bro.

Item total:$49.00
Shipping to Malaysia:$195.00
Total:$244.00 USD

sweat.gif


TSanfieldude
post Jul 16 2010, 03:13 PM

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QUOTE(chewkl @ Jul 16 2010, 03:05 PM)
Thanks bro.

Item total:$49.00
Shipping to Malaysia:$195.00
Total:$244.00 USD

sweat.gif
*
Something does not add up. Contact them by email and ask them to use USPS shipping. I have bought stuff from them before (lots of stuff) shipping was never that much even with more things.

Edit: I will contact them and update what is going on here. Somethind is wrong.

This post has been edited by anfieldude: Jul 16 2010, 03:15 PM
kyap
post Jul 16 2010, 03:24 PM

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I would like to get one also but the shipping is $199.00 to Malaysia..........
TSanfieldude
post Jul 16 2010, 03:30 PM

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QUOTE(kyap @ Jul 16 2010, 03:24 PM)
I would like to get one also but the shipping is $199.00 to Malaysia..........
*
I will check and post here on the response.
KronenZerg
post Jul 16 2010, 11:56 PM

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Izzit necessary to calibrate all LCD or Plasma tv sets? If so, how frequent ..
Sorry for asking cos i am new n intend to buy a plasma tv.

No offence .. i am didnt know we have calibrate it cos most of the tvs comes calibrated.
Of cos, the contrast, lighting etc .. is can be determine by one eyesight ...

Nvrtheless .. thanks for guide, anfielddude ..
TSanfieldude
post Jul 17 2010, 07:43 AM

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QUOTE(chewkl @ Jul 16 2010, 03:05 PM)
Thanks bro.

Item total:$49.00
Shipping to Malaysia:$195.00
Total:$244.00 USD

sweat.gif
*
All,

Spectracal has corrected its mistake. The mistake was due to a weight mistake that someone made in the website. The shipping charges are now USD65. However, I would urge those interested to send them an email as they can also ship via USPS international shipping which is cheaper (That shd be about USD40). I think it is the lowest u can get. Alternatively, u can get someone to bring in from US (by shipping to a local US address or Vpost).

Hope it works out.
ar188
post Jul 19 2010, 10:53 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Jul 17 2010, 07:43 AM)
All,

Spectracal has corrected its mistake. The mistake was due to a weight mistake that someone made in the website. The shipping charges are now USD65. However, I would urge those interested to send them an email as they can also ship via USPS international shipping which is cheaper (That shd be about USD40). I think it is the lowest u can get. Alternatively, u can get someone to bring in from US (by shipping to a local US address or Vpost).

Hope it works out.
*
or 2-3 fella tumpang.. like how you buy BDs from us.. (instead of only one piece)
jchong
post Jul 20 2010, 10:14 AM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Jul 17 2010, 07:43 AM)
All,

Spectracal has corrected its mistake. The mistake was due to a weight mistake that someone made in the website. The shipping charges are now USD65. However, I would urge those interested to send them an email as they can also ship via USPS international shipping which is cheaper (That shd be about USD40). I think it is the lowest u can get. Alternatively, u can get someone to bring in from US (by shipping to a local US address or Vpost).

Hope it works out.
*
I just checked my bill, last time when I bought the Display2 from them. USPS shipping was USD$35.
TSanfieldude
post Jul 20 2010, 11:05 AM

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QUOTE(jchong @ Jul 20 2010, 10:14 AM)
I just checked my bill, last time when I bought the Display2 from them. USPS shipping was USD$35.
*
Sounds about right. So for all of u who are interested in doing ur own calibration, I would urge u to send an email to SC and ask them to prepare a custom quote for cheaper shipping option.

chewkl
post Jul 20 2010, 11:08 AM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Jul 20 2010, 11:05 AM)
Sounds about right. So for all of u who are interested in doing ur own calibration, I would urge u to send an email to SC and ask them to prepare a custom quote for cheaper shipping option.
*
Bro, remember to write and email to them as well for U know what. I might be leaving earlier then expected and will have more days...
helob
post Jul 20 2010, 02:44 PM

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QUOTE(ar188 @ Jul 19 2010, 10:53 PM)
or 2-3 fella tumpang.. like how you buy BDs from us.. (instead of only one piece)
*
Excellent suggestion.
Since the instrument is going to be used infrequently, why don't we share out a few and have them circular around?
Any copy right legality on circulation?


TSanfieldude
post Jul 20 2010, 03:32 PM

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QUOTE(helob @ Jul 20 2010, 02:44 PM)
Excellent suggestion.
Since the instrument is going to be used infrequently, why don't we share out a few and have them circular around?
Any copy right legality on circulation?
*
Sounds great, but remember that this is a colorimeter and it uses filters internally to mimic the eye. So in essence, it degrades with time and humidity. I would ensure that it is kept well in a cool place and handled with care. Of course, if u could profile it against a spectro that would help.

No copyright of the instrument. The software is licensed to an individual (Calman) and is pretty good. However, if u r using the freeware HCFR then there shd be no issue.
Fusion
post Jul 21 2010, 02:49 PM

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i have a unit of Spyder 3 pro and recently i manage to get a copy of the spyder 3 TV to calibrate my LCD. After calibration, the picture has improved but i find that the software is very simple and hardly even touched other setting such as Tint. Will the Calman be an improvement if compares to the Spyder 3 TV?

after calibration, i realized that different source has a different video quality. after calibrating the DVD player, do i have to calibrate another setting for my media player as well? When i ran the color chart for the media player, the setting is very different from my DVD player.....
TSanfieldude
post Jul 22 2010, 07:48 AM

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QUOTE(Fusion @ Jul 21 2010, 02:49 PM)
i have a unit of Spyder 3 pro and recently i manage to get a copy of the spyder 3 TV to calibrate my LCD. After calibration, the picture has improved but i find that the software is very simple and hardly even touched other setting such as Tint. Will the Calman be an improvement if compares to the Spyder 3 TV?

after calibration, i realized that different source has a different video quality. after calibrating the DVD player, do i have to calibrate another setting for my media player as well? When i ran the color chart for the media player, the setting is very different from my DVD player.....
*
The softwares provided with the Spyder TV is limited. Calman will allow more options. However, it is not automatic. U would need to to each portion while reading what comes out of ur meter. Greyscale, cms can all be done with calman.

Each source does have different outputs. However, the white point for both SD and HD is the same. What media player was that?
Fusion
post Jul 31 2010, 10:31 AM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Jul 22 2010, 07:48 AM)
The softwares provided with the Spyder TV is limited. Calman will allow more options. However, it is not automatic. U would need to to each portion while reading what comes out of ur meter. Greyscale, cms can all be done with calman.

Each source does have different outputs. However, the white point for both SD and HD is the same. What media player was that?
*
i am currently using the DVico 4100 media player and a pioneer DVD player...as for my LCD, its an old Samsung model...Samsung LA37S81BX/SHI 37" LCD TV....there is not much adjustment that can be done on the TV and after adjusting the brightness n contrast, the Black Level is nicer but i lose out a lot of detail on darker images. when i get the detail, the black looks more like grey than black....its kind of frustrating.....


TSanfieldude
post Jul 31 2010, 11:07 AM

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QUOTE(Fusion @ Jul 31 2010, 10:31 AM)
i am currently using the DVico 4100 media player and a pioneer DVD player...as for my LCD, its an old Samsung model...Samsung LA37S81BX/SHI 37" LCD TV....there is not much adjustment that can be done on the TV and after adjusting the brightness n contrast, the Black Level is nicer but i lose out a lot of detail on darker images. when i get the detail, the black looks more like grey than black....its kind of frustrating.....
*
I am pretty sure Samsung has greyscale adjustments in the service menu.

Use the MP4 files from AVSHD709 to adjust brightness and contrast correctly. Do u hv a gamma adjustment? Set gamma appropriately for better shadow details. Make sure there is not black crush.
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post Aug 3 2010, 10:59 AM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Jul 31 2010, 11:07 AM)
I am pretty sure Samsung has greyscale adjustments in the service menu.

Use the MP4 files from AVSHD709 to adjust brightness and contrast correctly. Do u hv a gamma adjustment? Set gamma appropriately for better shadow details. Make sure there is not black crush.
*
Hi Anfieldude

I am very curious to know:

1) if color temperature affects your gamma target ie D65 say 2.4 gamma and D90 is 2.2 gamma??

2) There has been debate on AVS on target gamma. What is your target gamma for CRT (Is it the magical 2.2?) and modern HDTV like plasma?

Thanks for the teaching lesson smile.gif

This post has been edited by specuvestor: Aug 3 2010, 11:21 AM
TSanfieldude
post Aug 3 2010, 03:32 PM

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QUOTE(specuvestor @ Aug 3 2010, 10:59 AM)
Hi Anfieldude

I am very curious to know:

1) if color temperature affects your gamma target ie D65 say 2.4 gamma and D90 is 2.2 gamma??

2) There has been debate on AVS on target gamma. What is your target gamma for CRT (Is it the magical 2.2?) and modern HDTV like plasma?

Thanks for the teaching lesson smile.gif
*
1. Not that I hv seen. HD target for white point is D65. x 0.3127, y 0.33. If u hit this target , the colour temperature is also met. Gamma and colour temperature are not related. Gamma is luminance of each white point at different IRE. In other words, its the Y. (x,y, Y) As you can see, x,y are the white points, where the control of Y is really gamma.

2. I hv not calibrated any CRTs lately, but most of them hit a gamma of 2.5 I believe becoz of the nature of the CRT.

My own targets for modern HDTVs are for daytime viewing and a 100% IRE white of ~50ft/L - 2.15 (if possible), for nighttime viewing, 100% white of ~ 35ft/L and gamma of 2.35.


asherteoh
post Aug 4 2010, 06:25 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Aug 3 2010, 03:32 PM)
1. Not that I hv seen. HD target for white point is D65. x 0.3127, y 0.33. If u hit this target , the colour temperature is also met. Gamma and colour temperature are not related. Gamma is luminance of each white point at different IRE. In other words, its the Y. (x,y, Y) As you can see, x,y are the white points, where the control of Y is really gamma.

2. I hv not calibrated any CRTs lately, but most of them hit a gamma of 2.5 I believe becoz of the nature of the CRT.

My own targets for modern HDTVs are for daytime viewing and a 100% IRE white of ~50ft/L - 2.15 (if possible), for nighttime viewing, 100% white of ~ 35ft/L and gamma of 2.35.
*
bro... just remembered this. can u send me plasma's my calman reports? just want to check on something. thanks
TSanfieldude
post Aug 4 2010, 11:12 PM

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QUOTE(asherteoh @ Aug 4 2010, 06:25 PM)
bro... just remembered this. can u send me plasma's my calman reports? just want to check on something. thanks
*
Ok. Will contact u.

BTW on ur display day setting was 40ft/L (thats the max for the set without clipping gamma 2.2) and night was 33ft/L (gamma 2.28)...
senoqc
post Aug 5 2010, 10:19 PM

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hx bro...
since i was a noob.. plis somebody twll me the best setting on tv to match with ps3.. btw i'm using panasonic 42" u29 fullhd... plisss
specuvestor
post Aug 6 2010, 05:06 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Aug 3 2010, 03:17 PM)
specuvestor,

NTSC based DVDs are 60i, PAL based are 50i.

Some displays or video processors can rebuild the 24p info from these sources via pulldown or algorithms to undo the PAL speedup.

There are no native 24p content DVDs out there.

NTSC is based on SMPTE C and PAL is PAL colour space.
*
Hi Anfieldude

In order for my pio 508xg to inverse telecine from 480/60i or 576/50i, does it need to ALWAYS receive an interlaced signal? In other words if I output as 480p or 576p does the TV still able to do 24fps or are some flags removed from the i/p conversion that the TV will not be able to recognise the movie source?

Thanks in advance
TSanfieldude
post Aug 7 2010, 08:00 AM

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QUOTE(specuvestor @ Aug 6 2010, 05:06 PM)
Hi Anfieldude

In order for my pio 508xg to inverse telecine from 480/60i or 576/50i, does it need to ALWAYS receive an interlaced signal? In other words if I output as 480p or 576p does the TV still able to do 24fps or are some flags removed from the i/p conversion that the TV will not be able to recognise the movie source?

Thanks in advance
*

Specuvestor,

The pio refreshes when set to Pure Cinema Advance at it receives a 480i/60, 480p/60, 720p/60, 1080i/60. If the flags are correct it will recreate. It does not recreate if it receives a 576i/p signal.

However, I would need to build a probe to confirm this in actual. This is based on info and my observation.
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post Aug 7 2010, 12:14 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Aug 4 2010, 11:12 PM)
Ok. Will contact u.

BTW on ur display day setting was 40ft/L (thats the max for the set without clipping gamma 2.2) and night was 33ft/L (gamma 2.28)...
*
cool.... i checked my mail but still no report from u. do send me the report when u're free
paskal
post Oct 5 2010, 02:17 PM

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guys, think i'll be buying the X-Rite i1Display 2 Colorimeter from SpectraCal.
the price is still USD49.

anyone else wanna join?
we could share the shipping costs. this would be a fun experience to learn display calibration.
TSanfieldude
post Oct 5 2010, 02:27 PM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Oct 5 2010, 02:17 PM)
guys, think i'll be buying the X-Rite i1Display 2 Colorimeter from SpectraCal.
the price is still USD49.

anyone else wanna join?
we could share the shipping costs. this would be a fun experience to learn display calibration.
*
Paskal, the offer of Display 2 is only for existing customers or calman users. They will gladly sell it with the home edition software at usd248. If u do not want the software, ur best bet would be to get the meter from amazon or b&h photo and using hcfr. If u need any advice during calibration , post here and I will gladly help.
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post Oct 5 2010, 06:15 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Oct 5 2010, 02:27 PM)
Paskal, the offer of Display 2 is only for existing customers or calman users. They will gladly sell it with the home edition software at usd248. If u do not want the software, ur best bet would be to get the meter from amazon or b&h photo and using hcfr. If u need any advice during calibration , post here and I will gladly help.
*
i could checkout the display 2 alone without any other product. requested a quote from them with shipping using USPS. waiting for their clarification and pricing. hopefully they're able to sell it at USD49 hehe
TSanfieldude
post Oct 5 2010, 07:29 PM

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QUOTE(paskal @ Oct 5 2010, 06:15 PM)
i could checkout the display 2 alone without any other product. requested a quote from them with shipping using USPS. waiting for their clarification and pricing. hopefully they're able to sell it at USD49 hehe
*
Good for you. Hope it works out.
yltan
post Nov 18 2010, 11:56 AM

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Looking to calibrate my displays. Anyone care to do the services at Shah Alam?
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post Nov 26 2010, 09:33 PM

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thanks for sharing the good info!!
Optiplex330
post Dec 31 2010, 08:44 AM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Mar 23 2010, 08:13 AM)


Setting Brightness
Brightness is actually the setting of the black level that for me is the basis of a proper calibration. My preference on the test pattern on setting brightness would be the brightness (PLUGE Low– Picture Line Up GEnerator) pattern on S&M Test Disc. However, since most of you would not be buying the test discs all the explanation would be based on AVSHD709 free test disc. Pull up the Basic Settings, 1st pattern (called brightness and contrast). On this pattern you will see flashing bars labeled 1-25 against a video black of 16. First check that you cannot see all the way down to the label of below 5.  If you do these bars flashing, you need to check the settings of you Blu Ray player or your display. What is probably happening is that you are sending a RGB Full signal (also lookout if your display has a setting for 0 IRE, 7.5IRE, select 7.5IRE for the correct setup). For all BD or DVD material, it is based on a video level setting of 16 and above. This is the 1st setting you need to check. Once you select the correct output from your player (typically most players have an Auto setting, this setting normally sets to YCbCr it depends on the EDID that your display is sending out), you are ready to set the brightness. It is better to set the brightness in a dark environment. Turn up the brightness until you can see the bars below 16 flash. Then turn it down until 17 can barely be seen. Now go to the next pattern. The next pattern is brightness and a contrast pattern together. For displays that have different outputs based on dark/bright content in the same screen (plasmas, crt) check your brightness setting that you set earlier. Same method used here, in this case see if you can get at least 19 and above flashing and the 16 and below not flashing. The correct brightness setting is the higher one from pattern 1 and 2. ie, if using the 1st pattern you got a brightness of +1, and on the 2nd pattern you got a brightness of +2 then , use +2.
*
Hi
I tried 2 different calibration pattern including this one and gotten the same result with Brightness set at +2 (with this one pattern, the "17" is barely flashing).

But every time I looked at movies with lots of dark scene, the picture has some sort of whitish powdery look indicating Brightness being too high. I have to set it at -2 for me to be happy with it.

So in essence, the pattern tells me to set at +2 but in real life, I prefer the picture quality of -2. Or may be I am using the pattern wrong?

TSanfieldude
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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Dec 31 2010, 08:44 AM)
Hi
I tried 2 different calibration pattern including this one and gotten the same result with Brightness set at +2 (with this one pattern, the "17" is barely flashing).

But every time I looked at movies with lots of dark scene, the picture has some sort of whitish powdery look indicating Brightness being too high. I have to set it at -2 for me to be happy with it.

So in essence, the pattern tells me to set at +2 but in real life, I prefer the picture quality of -2. Or may be I am using the pattern wrong?
*
Are u adjusting it at the same environment as u r watching it? I believe u use the panny u series that does not hv great black levels? What mode r u using? R u adjusting and watching in a dark room? When set to -2 what do u see on the test patterns?
Optiplex330
post Dec 31 2010, 09:03 AM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Dec 31 2010, 08:57 AM)
Are u adjusting it at the same environment as u r watching it? I believe u use the panny u series that does not hv great black levels? What mode r u using? R u adjusting and watching in a dark room? When set to -2 what do u see on the test patterns?
*
Yes, I tried to do calibration on my 50U using the pattern in the same environment that I am watching aka lighting level. The mode is "Normal". Since I find the picture better with -2, I have not bother to go back to see the pattern.

As you know the 50U have very reflective screen so like you once mentioned, I switched off all the light and switched on a small light behind the TV and the picture quality turns from "good" to "wow". Thanks.

TSanfieldude
post Dec 31 2010, 09:13 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Dec 31 2010, 09:03 AM)
Yes, I tried to do calibration on my 50U using the pattern in the same environment that I am watching aka lighting level. The mode is "Normal". Since I find the picture better with -2, I have not bother to go back to see the pattern.

As you know the 50U have very reflective screen so like you once mentioned, I switched off all the light and switched on a small light behind the TV and the picture quality turns from "good" to "wow". Thanks.
*
The downside to what u r doing is is black crush and leads to loss of shadow detail. There a couple of reasons why u r seeing what u r seeing. The gamma in normal mode is funky and does not track well. To start with the gamma is best tracked in cinema mode. Even then it only tracks at 1.9 or so which is bright. I believe true cinema might be slightly better at about 1.9+. Also it is most likely that the u series is coming out of black too fast. There is a setting in the service menu to improve this but shd only be done by someone who knows what they r doing and with a proper meter that can read low light levels. Anyway, I will check on this if I can this weekend. What u hv done is essentially to compromise shadow details for black levels.What u essentially get is compressed dynamic range.

This post has been edited by anfieldude: Dec 31 2010, 09:22 AM
Optiplex330
post Dec 31 2010, 09:17 AM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Dec 31 2010, 09:13 AM)
The downside to what u r doing is is black crush and leads to loss of shadow detail. There a couple of reasons why u r seeing what u r seeing. The gamma in normal mode is funky and does not track well. To start with the gamma is best tracked in cinema mode. Even then it only tracks at 1.9 or so which is bright. I believe true cinema might be slightly better at about 1.9+. Also it is most likely that the u series is coming out of black too fast. There is a setting in the service menu to improve this but shd only be done by someone who knows what they r doing and with a proper meter that can read low light levels. Anyway, I will check on this if I can this weekend. What u hv done is essentially to compromise black levels for shadow details.
*
May i ask what do you mean by "coming out of black too fast"?. I break-in my set using the color slides so should have about 200 hrs on the U by now.

And are you suggesting I should set mode to "true cinema" instead?

Thanks.

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Dec 31 2010, 09:18 AM
TSanfieldude
post Dec 31 2010, 09:25 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Dec 31 2010, 09:17 AM)
May i ask what do you mean by "coming out of black too fast"?. I break-in my set using the color slides so should have about 200 hrs on the U by now.

And are you suggesting I should set mode to "true cinema" instead?

Thanks.
*
That statement is with regards to how the gamma curve is at just above black.
Cinema with warm colour temp or true cinema are more accurate.
Optiplex330
post Jan 2 2011, 09:56 AM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Dec 31 2010, 08:44 AM)
Hi
I tried 2 different BRIGHTNESS calibration pattern including this one and gotten the same result with Brightness set at +2 (with this one pattern, the "17" is barely flashing).

But every time I looked at movies with lots of dark scene, the picture has some sort of whitish powdery look indicating Brightness being too high. I have to set it at -2 for me to be happy with it.

So in essence, the pattern tells me to set at +2 but in real life, I prefer the picture quality of -2. Or may be I am using the pattern wrong?
*
I took your advise and tried it out with True Cinema mode. Yes, you are right. The test pattern seems to indicate +2 and actual watching movies seems to indicate 0 (which is better than the previous -2). Still a novice and experimenting. Thanks

I was wondering, if I set Contrast to the maximum, will I be able to have see more details in shadow?





TSanfieldude
post Jan 2 2011, 02:14 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Jan 2 2011, 09:56 AM)
I took your advise and tried it out with True Cinema mode. Yes, you are right. The test pattern seems to indicate +2 and actual watching movies seems to indicate 0 (which is better than the previous -2). Still a novice and experimenting. Thanks

I was wondering, if I set Contrast to the maximum, will I be able to have see more details in shadow?
*
If u set contrast too high, as I explained in the 1st post you will then start crushing whites. U will then start losing details in the bright areas.
bijan
post Jan 17 2011, 03:17 PM

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hello sifus... wanna ask, I've been struggling to calibrate my hdtv.. i have read this guide and several ones on the net and the picture calibrated in my hdtv is not good enough... since I dun trust my eyes to correctly calibrate I've thinking to buy a colormeter (spyder 2 / spyder 3) and used it with hcfr.. is this an easy task ? have anyone try this?
klimal
post Jan 17 2011, 06:11 PM

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QUOTE(bijan @ Jan 17 2011, 03:17 PM)
hello sifus... wanna ask, I've been struggling to calibrate my hdtv.. i have read this guide and several ones on the net and the picture calibrated in my hdtv is not good enough... since I dun trust my eyes to correctly calibrate I've thinking to buy a colormeter (spyder 2 / spyder 3) and used it with hcfr.. is this an easy task ? have anyone try this?
*
It is not a simple task.
Get it done the correct way.
Anfieldude did it for me when he came down to KL and it made a BIG difference. rclxms.gif
TSanfieldude
post Jan 17 2011, 06:52 PM

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QUOTE(bijan @ Jan 17 2011, 03:17 PM)
hello sifus... wanna ask, I've been struggling to calibrate my hdtv.. i have read this guide and several ones on the net and the picture calibrated in my hdtv is not good enough... since I dun trust my eyes to correctly calibrate I've thinking to buy a colormeter (spyder 2 / spyder 3) and used it with hcfr.. is this an easy task ? have anyone try this?
*
If u want to go DIY, don't get the spyder unless u're using an LCD. I would advise the i2display LT as a minimum. There are better probes than that.
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post Jan 18 2011, 10:39 AM

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thanks anfieldude & klimal, yeah I'm using LCD and spyder is one of the chepest out there or at least what I have found.

Anyhow just wanted to share a link which I find useful, maybe you guys have known this link

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

thinking of trying the guide on think link and see how it goes. smile.gif
TSanfieldude
post Jan 18 2011, 10:51 AM

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QUOTE(bijan @ Jan 18 2011, 10:39 AM)
thanks anfieldude & klimal, yeah I'm using LCD and spyder is one of the chepest out there or at least what I have found.

Anyhow just wanted to share a link which I find useful, maybe you guys have known this link

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

thinking of trying the guide on think link and see how it goes. smile.gif
*
Thats a good site to start. If u hv not bought a spyder I wld advise to get the i2 display as the spyders are inaccurate , sometimes u get lucky sometimes not.
bijan
post Jan 18 2011, 11:17 AM

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noted..thanks for the advice anfieldude smile.gif
specuvestor
post Feb 7 2011, 04:15 PM

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Hi Anfieldude

Does RGB input into a TV gets gamma corrected as well?? or are all source gamma corrected including 709 spec?

So color space are all gamma corrected?? To what gamma then??

Any reason why we bother to gamma correct the source nowadays when we are going digital?

Thanks!!

This post has been edited by specuvestor: Feb 7 2011, 04:16 PM
TSanfieldude
post Feb 8 2011, 03:40 PM

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QUOTE(specuvestor @ Feb 7 2011, 04:15 PM)
Hi Anfieldude

Does RGB input into a TV gets gamma corrected as well?? or are all source gamma corrected including 709 spec?

So color space are all gamma corrected?? To what gamma then??

Any reason why we bother to gamma correct the source nowadays when we are going digital?

Thanks!!
*
spec,

The gamma correction at source (I am using this term as at the studios during mastering/camera) is a little complex. I have been reading and trying to get my head around this using Poynton's material and think I understand it but its a little difficult to put it in words at the moment.

The exact number of gamma correction is up in the air though 2.2 and 2.35 (as final gamma to be viewed from our displays) gets tossed up quite a bit. The problem is the confusion comes as the studios/mastering houses move from reference CRTs to reference LCDs etc.

I think since film stock is what is used for filming final correction is necessary taking into account that it is finally going to viewed by displays that the commoner uses. This is also due to different cameras being used etc. Everything shd be gamma corrected.

I will try to write up something on this soon.

However, in my opinion whenever I calibrate a display I find that somewhere between 2.2 - 2.35 is ok for dimly lit environment (this depends on the viewing environment and the peak white) and for brightly lit areas even as low as 2 is ok.

This post has been edited by anfieldude: Feb 8 2011, 05:50 PM
specuvestor
post Feb 8 2011, 04:10 PM

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ya gamma really toughest subject.

What I cannot understand is that it was perfect for CRT and perfect for analog compression

But like you say now using HDTV and all digital. Why still gamma correct at source?? Might as well send an uncorrected image and end user adjust the native picture depending on room lighting

Am wondering if there is any benefit for gamma corrected at source nowadays or it is just a legacy thingy

So all color space are gamma corrected???
TSanfieldude
post Feb 8 2011, 05:55 PM

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QUOTE(specuvestor @ Feb 8 2011, 04:10 PM)
ya gamma really toughest subject.

What I cannot understand is that it was perfect for CRT and perfect for analog compression

But like you say now using HDTV and all digital. Why still gamma correct at source?? Might as well send an uncorrected image and end user adjust the native picture depending on room lighting

Am wondering if there is any benefit for gamma corrected at source nowadays or it is just a legacy thingy

So all color space are gamma corrected???
*
I believe its a mix of both. Legacy for sure as overhauling from the cameras to the studios is a painful thing.

Another is I also do not believe that the modern hdtvs are really fully digital (when it comes to light intesity vs voltage) anyway. I have seen some data published by EEtimes that indicates that TFT LCD panels are not totally digital in response and are somewhat similar to the CRTs albeit without a 2.5 function as CRT has.

So I think in order to keep things simple, it would be easier for everyone to agree on a standard gamma correction at source tailored at correcting the natural response of the CRT (so in essence, built in correction at cameras and further correction if necessary at the studios) rather than changing everything to a linear response that is expected (but not practical) by digital hdtvs.
podrunner
post Feb 8 2011, 06:09 PM

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My needs are simple.....I just need Anfieldude to fly to Kuching with his Calman kit.
specuvestor
post Feb 8 2011, 06:51 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Feb 8 2011, 05:55 PM)
So I think in order to keep things simple, it would be easier for everyone to agree on a standard gamma correction at source tailored at correcting the natural response of the CRT (so in essence, built in correction at cameras and further correction if necessary at the studios) rather than changing everything to a linear response that is expected (but not practical) by digital hdtvs.
I thought the gamma correction is standardised at source to be 2.1 (if I remember correctly??) for light emittance nature of CRT?

why is linear response not practical??

QUOTE(podrunner @ Feb 8 2011, 06:09 PM)
My needs are simple.....I just need Anfieldude to fly to Kuching with his Calman kit.
solution simple also: just fly him there laugh.gif

This post has been edited by specuvestor: Feb 8 2011, 06:53 PM
TSanfieldude
post Feb 8 2011, 07:16 PM

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QUOTE(specuvestor @ Feb 8 2011, 06:51 PM)
I thought the gamma correction is standardised at source to be 2.1 (if I remember correctly??) for light emittance nature of CRT?

why is linear response not practical??
solution simple also: just fly him there  laugh.gif
*
Due to the nature of the the need to convert from digital to analogue (ie signal to actual voltage adjustment), there will be losses and natural tendencies of real world stuff to not adhere to a straight line. Of course, this is improving by day, but a lot of the stuff is still analogue.

Gamma correction is normally an inverse of function that a CRT with a fudge factor mostly due to NTSC encoding reasons (so in essence the correction is more like 1/2.2 vs 1/2.5. There is also a linear section near black that needs further correction, so yeah, its a little complicated.

The maths and physics behind video/imaging systems is very intriguing. Spending time understanding the equations is a lot of fun. Literature by Charles Poynton and Bruce Lindbloom are really a must for anyone interested in the science of video/imaging.
specuvestor
post Feb 9 2011, 02:35 PM

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ok thanks I only read Poynton... will check out Lindbloom
TSanfieldude
post Feb 9 2011, 03:14 PM

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QUOTE(specuvestor @ Feb 9 2011, 02:35 PM)
ok thanks I only read Poynton... will check out Lindbloom
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Lindbloom deals mostly with the mathematical portion.
TTOO
post Feb 10 2011, 09:40 PM

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Hi Anfieldude,

I calibrated the Brightness/Contrast of my Panasonic AE300 projector using AVSHD basic patterns as advised and is so far very happy with the picture quality. Source is my new Samsung BD-C5500 connected via component output.

Have not attempted to set Color/Tint as I do not have any filter or meter. Is there any other adjustments that you will recommend that I can do by eye?

This post has been edited by TTOO: Feb 10 2011, 09:41 PM
TSanfieldude
post Feb 11 2011, 10:07 AM

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QUOTE(TTOO @ Feb 10 2011, 09:40 PM)
Hi Anfieldude,

I calibrated the Brightness/Contrast of my Panasonic AE300 projector using AVSHD basic patterns as advised and is so far very happy with the picture quality. Source is my new Samsung BD-C5500 connected via component output.

Have not attempted to set Color/Tint as I do not have any filter or meter. Is there any other adjustments that you will recommend that I can do by eye?
*
Not really. I guess the only other one could be sharpness.
TTOO
post Feb 11 2011, 11:08 AM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Feb 11 2011, 10:07 AM)
Not really. I guess the only other one could be sharpness.
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Yes... did that too. Thanks for sharing.
TSanfieldude
post Feb 16 2011, 10:36 AM

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QUOTE(TTOO @ Feb 11 2011, 11:08 AM)
Yes... did that too. Thanks for sharing.
*
There's only that much that can be done without a meter, but doing the basics by itself improves quite a bit.
Boy96
post Feb 28 2011, 10:19 PM

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Need to recalibrate my LG 42LX6500

the blacks are sooo gray... I dunno why...
kelvyn
post Mar 24 2011, 02:08 PM

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Sorry for this noob question.

Does LCD TV need to perform calibrations?
If yes, then how to go about doing this?
TSanfieldude
post Mar 24 2011, 02:30 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Mar 24 2011, 02:08 PM)
Sorry for this noob question.

Does LCD TV need to perform calibrations?
If yes, then how to go about doing this?
*
All displays benefit from calibration. It sets the display to its optimum to play back content as close as possible to the targets that they were mastered to for viewing.

If u read the 1st page, there are a few ways to do it.

U can do basic calibration by following the steps outlined there.

Of course, there is only so much you can do with a test disc and eyes.

To carry out advanced calibration (greyscale, gamma, colour points etc), u would need to invest in a colorimeter or spectrophotometer to do it. Or u could hire someone to do it for u....


Added on March 24, 2011, 2:35 pm
QUOTE(Boy96 @ Feb 28 2011, 10:19 PM)
Need to recalibrate my LG 42LX6500

the blacks are sooo gray... I dunno why...
*
Boys96,

Have u set the brightness correctly as I outlined in post 1?

Do blacks become grey in dim environment or even bright environment?

Is the display screen a matte screen or a glossy screen?

Is light hitting the display when it happens?

Is it only in 3D mode?

This post has been edited by anfieldude: Mar 24 2011, 02:35 PM
ahmadkhairil
post Apr 11 2011, 11:05 AM

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where can i source the xrite i1 locally especially in penang?

there's a few company listed in xrite in klang valley only
TSanfieldude
post Apr 11 2011, 11:24 AM

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QUOTE(ahmadkhairil @ Apr 11 2011, 11:05 AM)
where can i source the xrite i1 locally especially in penang?

there's a few company listed in xrite in klang valley only
*
Are u looking for the eye One Pro or the i2 display lite?

The distributors in Klang don't really carry too many spectros.


bad2928
post Apr 11 2011, 12:26 PM

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is it a warm color temperature is the correct than natural?i dont understand my most of calibrated hdtv use that setting,it look yellowish to me

sorry for noob question......
TSanfieldude
post Apr 11 2011, 01:09 PM

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QUOTE(bad2928 @ Apr 11 2011, 12:26 PM)
is it a warm color temperature is the correct than natural?i dont understand my most of calibrated hdtv use that setting,it look yellowish to me

sorry for noob question......
*
Warm "normally" comes closest to D65 white. However, the white balance settings (RGB gain/cuts) also need to be set. This can only be done correctly with a meter.

D65 white tends to look different than "blue" whites that most people tend to think is correct.

D65 is the white point that movies are mastered to.
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post Apr 11 2011, 01:25 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Apr 11 2011, 01:09 PM)
Warm "normally" comes closest to D65 white. However, the white balance settings (RGB gain/cuts) also need to be set. This can only be done correctly with a meter.

D65 white tends to look different than "blue" whites that most people tend to think is correct.

D65 is the white point that movies are mastered to.
*
thanks,now i understand why.
ahmadkhairil
post Apr 11 2011, 03:24 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Apr 11 2011, 11:24 AM)
Are u looking for the eye One Pro or the i2 display lite?

The distributors in Klang don't really carry too many spectros.
*
Something for diy/home use, i2 display lite i suppose, and also colour checker passport, my passion are movie, gaming wit a bit of photoshop
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post Apr 11 2011, 03:54 PM

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QUOTE(ahmadkhairil @ Apr 11 2011, 03:24 PM)
Something for diy/home use, i2 display lite i suppose, and also colour checker passport, my passion are movie, gaming wit a bit of photoshop
*
Ok. I know some photo shops in Komtar carry the Spyder. I would advise against it. My advise would be to either google Calman or Chromapure to buy a bundle of the meter and the software. U could also get the meter from B&H photo or Amazon in the US and use the free HCFR. Both Spectracal (Calman) and Chromapure ships to Malaysia. Most likely tax for colorimeter is 10%. Let me know if u need my help.

I also remember seeing the i2 display lite once in komtar photo shop but the last time I went it was not there anymore. It was extremely expensive compared to US.

Colour checker, I'm not familiar and experienced with as I am more into displays an not into photography/photo related. The targets might be different.
ahmadkhairil
post Apr 11 2011, 04:32 PM

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The $49 offer for the colorimeter u mentioned in the thread earlier is it still ongoing? How limited is hcfr compared wit calman in ur experience
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post Apr 11 2011, 05:57 PM

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QUOTE(ahmadkhairil @ Apr 11 2011, 04:32 PM)
The $49 offer for the colorimeter u mentioned in the thread earlier is it still ongoing? How limited is hcfr compared wit calman in ur experience
*
No more. It was only for existing Calman users anyway. HCFR works fine for a diy. The support for meters is limited and there is not much customization u can do. Chromapure and Calman are much better in that regards. But it does what its intended to do.
Kiding
post May 9 2011, 12:09 AM

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Just bought the X-rite i1Display LT from amazon, then spend four hours to learn how to use colorHCFR for my Optoma HD20 projector

Below is the result

Luminance (Before Calibration)

user posted image

Luminance (After Calibration)

user posted image

Gamma (Before Calibration)

user posted image

Gamma (After Calibration)

user posted image

RGB (Before Calibration)

user posted image


RGB (After Calibration)

user posted image

Color Temperature (Before Calibration)

user posted image


Color Temperature (After Calibration)

user posted image





I'm quite satisfy with the RGB and Color Temperature calibrated result, but the gamma is not that good, I tried few ways to make it flat such as changing the gamma curve and offset, make a few tries and I still unable to get it flat at above 70% grey, I wonder how to adjust the HD20 parameters to get it right rclxub.gif



TSanfieldude
post May 9 2011, 12:16 AM

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QUOTE(Kiding @ May 9 2011, 12:09 AM)
Just bought the X-rite i1Display LT from amazon, then spend four hours to learn how to use colorHCFR for my Optoma HD20 projector

Below is the result

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

I'm quite satisfy with the RGB and Color Temperature calibrated result, but the gamma is not that good, I tried few ways to make it flat such as changing the gamma curve and offset, make a few tries and I still unable to get it flat at above 70% grey, I wonder how to adjust the HD20 parameters to get it right  rclxub.gif
*
Kiding,

U r seeing clipping in the high IREs. Its typical if u r running contrast too high. Pls try reducing contrast until the gamma at the 90% stops clipping.

Pls send me the HCFR files and I will take a look as well.
Kiding
post May 9 2011, 11:35 AM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ May 9 2011, 12:16 AM)
Kiding,

U r seeing clipping in the high IREs. Its typical if u r running contrast too high. Pls try reducing contrast until the gamma at the 90% stops clipping.

Pls send me the HCFR files and I will take a look as well.
*
Okay, thanks for the suggestion, I will try to correct tonight.

Below is the HCFR files, please have a look.

Attached File  aftercalibrate.zip ( 8.02k ) Number of downloads: 18

TSanfieldude
post May 9 2011, 02:43 PM

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QUOTE(Kiding @ May 9 2011, 11:35 AM)
Okay, thanks for the suggestion, I will try to correct tonight.

Below is the HCFR files, please have a look.

Attached File  aftercalibrate.zip ( 8.02k ) Number of downloads: 18

*
Will spend some time later to review the data.

There are various gamma options on the Optoma. I believe Cinema was almost 2.5 and PC was close to 2.2 the last time I calibrated one. Reducing contrast shd elimnate the clipping.
Kiding
post May 10 2011, 12:14 AM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ May 9 2011, 02:43 PM)
Will spend some time later to review the data.

There are various gamma options on the Optoma. I believe Cinema was almost 2.5 and PC was close to 2.2 the last time I calibrated one. Reducing contrast shd elimnate the clipping.
*
After lower my contrast and change the gamma curve type to 1, the gamma chart is better now, but at above 70% grey, the value is now shoot up sweat.gif Luminance chart also get improved, only the RGB has slightly higher delta value. take another one and half hours to calibrate yawn.gif Will further calibrate the RGB next time when free.

Anyway, thanks for the advice. below charts are the result of second calibration

Gamma Chart

user posted image

Luminance Chart

user posted image

Attached File  after2.zip ( 4.21k ) Number of downloads: 9

TSanfieldude
post May 10 2011, 06:00 PM

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QUOTE(Kiding @ May 10 2011, 12:14 AM)
After lower my contrast and change the gamma curve type to 1, the gamma chart is better now, but at above 70% grey, the value is now shoot up  sweat.gif Luminance chart also get improved, only the RGB has slightly higher delta value. take another one and half hours to calibrate  yawn.gif Will further calibrate the RGB next time when free.

Anyway, thanks for the advice. below charts are the result of second calibration

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Attached File  after2.zip ( 4.21k ) Number of downloads: 9

*
Looks much better now. U might be able to push up contrast 1 notch though.

Do post ur HCFR files as well.

Did u do the gamut? While it does not have a CMS, u still need to set colour and tint correctly. This will effect gresycale sometimes if u hv to make big changes. Let me know if u need assistance.
Kiding
post May 11 2011, 09:44 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ May 10 2011, 06:00 PM)
Looks much better now. U might be able to push up contrast 1 notch though.

Do post ur HCFR files as well.

Did u do the gamut? While it does not have a CMS, u still need to set colour and tint correctly. This will effect gresycale sometimes if u hv to make big changes. Let me know if u need assistance.
*
The HCFG file is attached as after2.zip, you may download it.

I didn't run the advanced color management, too tired to do it, my SVS sub will come in this weekend laugh.gif and then need to run the REW too sweat.gif probably will do it when have more free time.
TSanfieldude
post May 15 2011, 12:08 PM

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QUOTE(Kiding @ May 11 2011, 09:44 PM)
The HCFG file is attached as after2.zip, you may download it.

I didn't run the advanced color management, too tired to do it, my SVS sub will come in this weekend  laugh.gif and then need to run the REW too  sweat.gif  probably will do it when have more free time.
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Post it when u get around to it. Sometimes after adjustments in the colour and tint, the greyscale is altered.


This post has been edited by anfieldude: May 22 2011, 02:02 PM
Mickey C
post May 28 2011, 06:41 PM

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I used HDTV Calibration Wizard to calibrate my Plasma HDTV.
Result very good...
DannyOP
post Jun 4 2011, 07:39 PM

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Where to get the wizard?
TSanfieldude
post Jun 4 2011, 08:00 PM

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QUOTE(DannyOP @ Jun 4 2011, 07:39 PM)
Where to get the wizard?
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Danny if u r looking for a disc, try the Spears and Munsil or DVE. They might be easier. Disney World of Wonders disc is also not too bad.
ahmadkhairil
post Jun 4 2011, 08:39 PM

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@anfieldude
is it necessary to calibrate for every av input?

Do you calibrate seperately for sd/hd source
TSanfieldude
post Jun 4 2011, 11:08 PM

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QUOTE(ahmadkhairil @ Jun 4 2011, 08:39 PM)
@anfieldude
is it necessary to calibrate for every av input?

Do you calibrate seperately for sd/hd source
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Yes.

HD colour space and SD colour spaces are different for one. The other point is that displays refresh different signals at different refresh rates. Most of the times, that changes the greyscale and colour points,
waihoe
post Jun 10 2011, 02:37 PM

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@anfieldude,

Hi,
After following your many posts on various threads on this forum (many thanks for all the info & experience), i've decided i''ll need to invest on Calman.

I have some question from which you might know the answer to.

- Does i1Display2 support projectors?
- Which pattern disc should i go for? DVE HD or Spears & Munsil? (i have the DVD version of DVE)
- How big of a difference are there between different Colorimeter? (ie, i1Display2 to X2 to DTP-94 to ...) <- i know this would be a bit difficult to answer as i myself don't know how/what i'll be using it yet.

For sure i'll be using it for PC (currently borrows Spyder3 Elite to calibrate) and for a flat panel (have not bought one but eyeing for 50VT20 or possibly 50VT30) but also looking into the possibility of using projection.

Thanks in advance for any questions answered. I truly will appreciate your knowledge and experience.

I also gathering you perform on-site calibration too. (PM me for details?)

Cheers!
WH.
TSanfieldude
post Jun 11 2011, 01:53 AM

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QUOTE(waihoe @ Jun 10 2011, 02:37 PM)
@anfieldude,

Hi,
After following your many posts on various threads on this forum (many thanks for all the info & experience), i've decided i''ll need to invest on Calman.

I have some question from which you might know the answer to.

- Does i1Display2 support projectors?
- Which pattern disc should i go for? DVE HD or Spears & Munsil? (i have the DVD version of DVE)
- How big of a difference are there between different Colorimeter? (ie, i1Display2 to X2 to DTP-94 to ...)  <- i know this would be a bit difficult to answer as i myself don't know how/what i'll be using it yet.

For sure i'll be using it for PC (currently borrows Spyder3 Elite to calibrate) and for a flat panel (have not bought one but eyeing for 50VT20 or possibly 50VT30) but also looking into the possibility of using projection.

Thanks in advance for any questions answered. I truly will appreciate your knowledge and experience.

I also gathering you perform on-site calibration too. (PM me for details?)

Cheers!
WH.
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1. The i1 display 2 is a colorimeter. It supports projectors, plasmas and lcds.
2. Both the DVE and S&M do not have all the necessary test patterns to calibrate the displays (the DVE has most but some of them are full screen that is not really suitable for plasmas and pjs). U could get the free AVS HD 709 disc.
3. With higher price normally comes better build or quality.

That said, all colorimeters drift with time. The cheaper ones might drift faster. The spectros are much better for this. Also colorimeters tend not to read colours that accurately (even the high end ones). The higher end colorimeters (K-10. C5E) have onboard storage so it can be recalibrated. The X2 or the DTP-94 do not but Calman has tables in the software that they can store offsets after they recalibrate the meter.

I will PM on calibration details in a PM.

This post has been edited by anfieldude: Jun 11 2011, 01:55 AM
waihoe
post Jun 16 2011, 11:45 AM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Jun 11 2011, 01:53 AM)
1. The i1 display 2 is a colorimeter. It supports projectors, plasmas and lcds.
2. Both the DVE and S&M do not have all the necessary test patterns to calibrate the displays (the DVE has most but some of them are full screen that is not really suitable for plasmas and pjs). U could get the free AVS HD 709 disc.
3. With higher price normally comes better build or quality.

That said, all colorimeters drift with time. The cheaper ones might drift faster. The spectros are much better for this.  Also colorimeters tend not to read colours that accurately (even the high end ones). The higher end colorimeters (K-10. C5E) have onboard storage so it can be recalibrated. The X2 or the DTP-94 do not but Calman has tables in the software that they can store offsets after they recalibrate the meter.

I will PM on calibration details in a PM.
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Anfieldude,

Thanks for your replies. Will take note of what you've said. thumbup.gif
I went to look at the 50VT20K again last night and look pretty set on getting that.

Still awaiting for your PM... whistling.gif
TSanfieldude
post Jun 30 2011, 04:42 PM

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I recently completed the THX Video Calibration Certification. Will write more of the experience in the days to come.
Kiding
post Jun 30 2011, 06:14 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Jun 30 2011, 04:42 PM)
I recently completed the THX Video Calibration Certification. Will write more of the experience in the days to come.
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Congratulation, sifu rclxms.gif rclxms.gif rclxms.gif
htkaki
post Jul 3 2011, 11:06 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Jun 30 2011, 04:42 PM)
I recently completed the THX Video Calibration Certification. Will write more of the experience in the days to come.
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Congrats!! rclxms.gif thumbup.gif
geforce1999
post Jul 4 2011, 11:13 AM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Jun 30 2011, 04:42 PM)
I recently completed the THX Video Calibration Certification. Will write more of the experience in the days to come.
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Congrats. Will need your assistance after I upgrade my projector a couple years later notworthy.gif
DannyOP
post Jul 4 2011, 07:39 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Jun 30 2011, 04:42 PM)
I recently completed the THX Video Calibration Certification. Will write more of the experience in the days to come.
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Congrats! Can I book your time once my projector is in?
TSanfieldude
post Jul 5 2011, 08:19 PM

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QUOTE(DannyOP @ Jul 4 2011, 07:39 PM)
Congrats! Can I book your time once my projector is in?
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Sure give me a call when its in.
pierreye
post Jul 6 2011, 12:55 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Jun 30 2011, 04:42 PM)
I recently completed the THX Video Calibration Certification. Will write more of the experience in the days to come.
*
Wow bro. I didn't know you are so extreme into video calibration. Anyway, congrats on the certification. I think kind of hard to get anyone certified in THX Video Calibration in Penang. I previously met a self proclaim THX certified calibrator but when I see him setting up the video projector, I really doubt he know how to set even the basic contrast and brightness setting as he just eye ball it using movie material. Not even a simple test pattern to set the correct video level blink.gif .

Anyway, hope you can share with us some tips for self learn calibrator. The calibration that I always struggle is CMS. Need lots of iteration between CMS and greyscale to nail it perfectly.
TSanfieldude
post Jul 6 2011, 01:38 PM

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QUOTE(pierreye @ Jul 6 2011, 12:55 PM)
Wow bro. I didn't know you are so extreme into video calibration. Anyway, congrats on the certification. I think kind of hard to get anyone certified in THX Video Calibration in Penang. I previously met a self proclaim THX certified calibrator but when I see him setting up the video projector, I really doubt he know how to set even the basic contrast and brightness setting as he just eye ball it using movie material. Not even a simple test pattern to set the correct video level  blink.gif .

Anyway, hope you can share with us some tips for self learn calibrator. The calibration that I always struggle is CMS. Need lots of iteration between CMS and greyscale to nail it perfectly.
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No problem pierreye. CMS was also discussed in depth during the training.

As far as I know, there is no THX certified professional (home theater or video calibration) in Penang. There are some THX Certified Professional (Home Theater I & II) in KL which is not for video. THX Certified Professional Video Calibration, I believe I am the 1st in Malaysia, Singapore. There is a chap in Thailand that is THX Certified Video Professional before me. The THX website shd be updated in about a month that shd show my status in Penang.
Docan
post Jul 12 2011, 11:37 AM

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When you coming??
TSanfieldude
post Jul 12 2011, 06:05 PM

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QUOTE(Docan @ Jul 12 2011, 11:37 AM)
When you coming??
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PM Sent.
terranova
post Jul 18 2011, 11:14 AM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Jun 30 2011, 04:42 PM)
I recently completed the THX Video Calibration Certification. Will write more of the experience in the days to come.
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Haven't been following the forums lately. Congrats bro! ISF next?