U shd be able to. Select true cinema and calibrate cinema in service menu. They r the same template.

Doc, if ur willing spend the time and money u can do a good job calibrating displays. I would get a proper spectro and a good colorimeter if u r planning to calibrate projectors. Let me know if u need help with software/hardware options and any other advice regarding calibrations.

The i1 Display2 /LT is a entry colorimeter and will work for a start. U can use it with the freeware HCFR.

I would ask that you also check out X-Rite's new i1 Display 3 that is much better but not supported by HCFR. Still, they are both colorimeters and will degrade with time and since they use filters to work, might not be accurate for Colour Management Work.

If u go with Chromapure/Calman, they support more meters and u can profile the colorimeter with a spectro (since u only use it for ur projector, it will work for longer time). I can setup the profile with my spectro, but would need to get temp licenses from Calman to support that. But they meters cost more and the software is not free.

It might not work due to similar driver used for both devices. We can try though. The easier way would be to take a read with my i1 pro then urs and note the differences. Mine was recertified but it did not need recalibration. We can plan on something next week if ur around. Recertification is usd175.

This post has been edited by anfieldude: Aug 26 2011, 11:08 PM

Hope u r enjoying ur THX calibrated display!

Docan,
ISF and THX standards are the same as they all meet the relevant specs. In the case of yonggoh, there is a request to submit calibration to thx for the plaque and letter. THX and ISF are the 2 official bodies that are kinda of the bodies that are championing the cause to educate the mass market in the necessities and benefits of calibration. In my case I am certified by both bodies, so rest assured it meets both the bodies requirements.

Will be in town this week. We'll discuss on pm.

This post has been edited by anfieldude: Oct 5 2011, 03:04 PM

I normally use casino royale to test the accuracy of the calibration. In this case as it was a dune with no bd drive. We tested using other scenes.

pierreye,

Will test the internal patterns vs my VideoForge, but I recall someone else doing it and confirming that they match.

Also the good thing is that the Lumagen has the necessary saturation patterns and if u r using it with Chromapure then u call do the saturation stability charts as well.

Its a very powerful VideoProcessor and the scaling/deinterlacing is really second to none. I will review it in detail when I hv the time.

Blastomuss/ape, both ur pjs were about the same....Grey screen and in the case of blastomuss the size caused it as well.

Doc,

Post calibrated pjs rarely give high brightness. Some DLPs do give up to 15-17ft/L but they are normally high gain screens. The larger the screen the lower the brightness. The actual brightness also depends on the distance from the screen.

The highest white window/field I hv measured is about 15ft/L from the new X3/RS40. The numbers I typically get post calibration are anywhere between 3ft/L to a 15ft/L.

The darker the room the better the picture looks like. Also remember that a large screen with decent brightness always seems brighter to a smaller screen that is almost 10times brighter. This i because the size effect and the amount of light it illuminates on the screen.

Cool.

I prefered the granularity of the controls in the Lumagen but I believe the new version of Calman is supposed to offer the fine controls as well. It tends to overshoot if u move the interactive too much. But its controls are out of this world. For those with coarse 2 point systems for greyscale and and non working CMS, this solves a lot of problems.

Same as u.

No problem. Curved screen huh. Not done to many of those. But its the same.

pierreye,

Its a known issue. That is one of the reasons I profile the K-10 to the i1Pro before the temperature drift occurs and then use the K-10 going forward. I hv done tests on plasmas with the i1Pro on the plasma vs off the plasma. Also a freshly dark level calibrated reading vs a non fresh dark level calibrated one. I also did some repeatibility measurements before on a i1Pro left on plasma for extended periods of time. There were differences in the readings but more in the low end where it is reaching the capability of the i1Pro. The high end is pretty decent but as u know the i1Pro does fluctuate a little as well even in the high end. While the errors are still within 1-2 DE its still annoying. I believe it is due to the nature of refresh of the plasmas (or the LCDs, LED backit LCDs) that gives slightly different readings.

The low end below about 5ft/L starts to jump more and is more accurate after a fresh dark cal.

On my plasma, I did not see too much drift with extended heat as long as I did regular recals. So nowadays, I profile quickly then just check once in a while the profiled K-10 vs the i1Pro. The K-10 checks the refresh rates all the time and the readings are almost always the same meaning the repeatibility is fantastically accurate in both the bright and dark areas.

I also know that the FOV issue is a real issue on the OEM idisplay and the i1pro more so for DLPs, so watch out. There is a UHP sync mode that is better, but I am not sure if it is available during profiling. Another LYN member is working thru some problems on this.

Since u r getting a colorimeter, I would not worry so much for now.

Also, on the i1pro the drifts in colour at 75% and 100% are almost neglible even without the dark cal.

I hope to compare the accuracy of the i1pro vs the jeti 1211 when I get the 1211, but I think the difference will be minimal but the jeti will return extremely repeatable results as it aslo checks and locks the refresh rate before each read. Also the jeti does an internal black read before each read.

Does the abl also kick in for the test patterns from the lumagen. It has 3sizes if I recall. The I shd be able to try the smallest size. The selection shd be under hardware on the left. If not we need to try it on my pattern generator. Is this on the py800?

This post has been edited by anfieldude: Oct 18 2011, 10:02 AM

What was the peak luminance you are getting with the contrast set at 80? The VT20/V20 could easily hit 38ft/L (with decent gamma at 2.2, dips at 10%), so could the U20. The U30 i did could not hit more than 30ft/l even when I cranked up contrast. It does not clip WTW so that made some changes which I believe is due to energy star requirements.

We could use very small windows that will not trigger ABL. The ABL on the pannys are a little aggresive. More so for the 2011 sets. The Kuros are slightly better especially the 42" and the 50". The 60" are better than most sets except the 42 and 50in.

Will have to watch for that the next time when I do a panny (10% window). Good to know that the OEMiD is a pretty good meter. Also looks like u r getting the hang of the Lumagen now...

Doc,

Its true. Again, its important to know that most screens do not have as high a gain as advertised. The Best mode with lamp high, is almost always red deficient so in real life the image is tinted green/blue.

10ft/L in a light controlled room is very bright. Remember its 10ft/L on a big screen. It will seem much brighter than 30ft/L on a small screen. The larger the space it illuminates the brigher the image seems.

Most of pjs I calibrate come anywhere between 3-14ft/L. The brightest post calibration so far has been the JVC coming in at around 15ft/L. Pierreye's BenQ comes in slightly higher.

Also take note that since I have the K-10 that is capable of reading low light levels accurately, I did not adjust the K-10 to ensure I was hitting peak light output, more so I adjusted to mimic how ur eye would see it.

By adjusting the angle and working on getting the highest peak output seen by the meter, I could easily have gotten about 20-30% higher.

This post has been edited by anfieldude: Oct 27 2011, 09:53 PM

If u want to carry out a complete calibration of your display for greyscale, gamma and colours u would need the tools. If u want to set the basic settings, u can download or get the basic test discs and set brightness, contrast, sharpness by eye.

PC monitors can also be calibrated, running the series of colours without a meter to read is not calibration.