The softwares provided with the Spyder TV is limited. Calman will allow more options. However, it is not automatic. U would need to to each portion while reading what comes out of ur meter. Greyscale, cms can all be done with calman.

Each source does have different outputs. However, the white point for both SD and HD is the same. What media player was that?

I am pretty sure Samsung has greyscale adjustments in the service menu.

Use the MP4 files from AVSHD709 to adjust brightness and contrast correctly. Do u hv a gamma adjustment? Set gamma appropriately for better shadow details. Make sure there is not black crush.

1. Not that I hv seen. HD target for white point is D65. x 0.3127, y 0.33. If u hit this target , the colour temperature is also met. Gamma and colour temperature are not related. Gamma is luminance of each white point at different IRE. In other words, its the Y. (x,y, Y) As you can see, x,y are the white points, where the control of Y is really gamma.

2. I hv not calibrated any CRTs lately, but most of them hit a gamma of 2.5 I believe becoz of the nature of the CRT.

My own targets for modern HDTVs are for daytime viewing and a 100% IRE white of ~50ft/L - 2.15 (if possible), for nighttime viewing, 100% white of ~ 35ft/L and gamma of 2.35.

Ok. Will contact u.

BTW on ur display day setting was 40ft/L (thats the max for the set without clipping gamma 2.2) and night was 33ft/L (gamma 2.28)...

Specuvestor,

The pio refreshes when set to Pure Cinema Advance at it receives a 480i/60, 480p/60, 720p/60, 1080i/60. If the flags are correct it will recreate. It does not recreate if it receives a 576i/p signal.

However, I would need to build a probe to confirm this in actual. This is based on info and my observation.

Paskal, the offer of Display 2 is only for existing customers or calman users. They will gladly sell it with the home edition software at usd248. If u do not want the software, ur best bet would be to get the meter from amazon or b&h photo and using hcfr. If u need any advice during calibration , post here and I will gladly help.

Good for you. Hope it works out.

Are u adjusting it at the same environment as u r watching it? I believe u use the panny u series that does not hv great black levels? What mode r u using? R u adjusting and watching in a dark room? When set to -2 what do u see on the test patterns?

The downside to what u r doing is is black crush and leads to loss of shadow detail. There a couple of reasons why u r seeing what u r seeing. The gamma in normal mode is funky and does not track well. To start with the gamma is best tracked in cinema mode. Even then it only tracks at 1.9 or so which is bright. I believe true cinema might be slightly better at about 1.9+. Also it is most likely that the u series is coming out of black too fast. There is a setting in the service menu to improve this but shd only be done by someone who knows what they r doing and with a proper meter that can read low light levels. Anyway, I will check on this if I can this weekend. What u hv done is essentially to compromise shadow details for black levels.What u essentially get is compressed dynamic range.

This post has been edited by anfieldude: Dec 31 2010, 09:22 AM

That statement is with regards to how the gamma curve is at just above black.
Cinema with warm colour temp or true cinema are more accurate.

If u set contrast too high, as I explained in the 1st post you will then start crushing whites. U will then start losing details in the bright areas.

If u want to go DIY, don't get the spyder unless u're using an LCD. I would advise the i2display LT as a minimum. There are better probes than that.

Thats a good site to start. If u hv not bought a spyder I wld advise to get the i2 display as the spyders are inaccurate , sometimes u get lucky sometimes not.

spec,

The gamma correction at source (I am using this term as at the studios during mastering/camera) is a little complex. I have been reading and trying to get my head around this using Poynton's material and think I understand it but its a little difficult to put it in words at the moment.

The exact number of gamma correction is up in the air though 2.2 and 2.35 (as final gamma to be viewed from our displays) gets tossed up quite a bit. The problem is the confusion comes as the studios/mastering houses move from reference CRTs to reference LCDs etc.

I think since film stock is what is used for filming final correction is necessary taking into account that it is finally going to viewed by displays that the commoner uses. This is also due to different cameras being used etc. Everything shd be gamma corrected.

I will try to write up something on this soon.

However, in my opinion whenever I calibrate a display I find that somewhere between 2.2 - 2.35 is ok for dimly lit environment (this depends on the viewing environment and the peak white) and for brightly lit areas even as low as 2 is ok.

This post has been edited by anfieldude: Feb 8 2011, 05:50 PM

I believe its a mix of both. Legacy for sure as overhauling from the cameras to the studios is a painful thing.

Another is I also do not believe that the modern hdtvs are really fully digital (when it comes to light intesity vs voltage) anyway. I have seen some data published by EEtimes that indicates that TFT LCD panels are not totally digital in response and are somewhat similar to the CRTs albeit without a 2.5 function as CRT has.

So I think in order to keep things simple, it would be easier for everyone to agree on a standard gamma correction at source tailored at correcting the natural response of the CRT (so in essence, built in correction at cameras and further correction if necessary at the studios) rather than changing everything to a linear response that is expected (but not practical) by digital hdtvs.

Due to the nature of the the need to convert from digital to analogue (ie signal to actual voltage adjustment), there will be losses and natural tendencies of real world stuff to not adhere to a straight line. Of course, this is improving by day, but a lot of the stuff is still analogue.

Gamma correction is normally an inverse of function that a CRT with a fudge factor mostly due to NTSC encoding reasons (so in essence the correction is more like 1/2.2 vs 1/2.5. There is also a linear section near black that needs further correction, so yeah, its a little complicated.

The maths and physics behind video/imaging systems is very intriguing. Spending time understanding the equations is a lot of fun. Literature by Charles Poynton and Bruce Lindbloom are really a must for anyone interested in the science of video/imaging.

Lindbloom deals mostly with the mathematical portion.

Not really. I guess the only other one could be sharpness.

There's only that much that can be done without a meter, but doing the basics by itself improves quite a bit.

All displays benefit from calibration. It sets the display to its optimum to play back content as close as possible to the targets that they were mastered to for viewing.

If u read the 1st page, there are a few ways to do it.

U can do basic calibration by following the steps outlined there.

Of course, there is only so much you can do with a test disc and eyes.

To carry out advanced calibration (greyscale, gamma, colour points etc), u would need to invest in a colorimeter or spectrophotometer to do it. Or u could hire someone to do it for u....

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Added on March 24, 2011, 2:35 pmBoys96,

Have u set the brightness correctly as I outlined in post 1?

Do blacks become grey in dim environment or even bright environment?

Is the display screen a matte screen or a glossy screen?

Is light hitting the display when it happens?

Is it only in 3D mode?

This post has been edited by anfieldude: Mar 24 2011, 02:35 PM