Pls PM me for calibration requests. I would like to talk about the technical aspects on this thread so that it does not violate forum rules.

Screen choice is very important in a projector system. Room setup is also very important. They r using a stewart screen and the room is pitch black.

This post has been edited by anfieldude: Nov 22 2011, 01:27 PM

Not sure what you mean. Calibration software is something that tells you what the meter that you use read.

For HD content mastered for Blu Ray/Home Use, there are set black/white levels, white points and the Red/Green/Blue/Cyan/Magenta/Yellow points and levels that adheres to Rec709.

Also the issue with eyes is ur eyes can deceive you, that is why a meter like a spectroradiometer is necessary.

However, there is reference and preference. Its ur display, u can do whatever u want with it. No one can say otherwise.

If u want to bring ur display to as close to reference as possible (to view what the director used to master the film to) u would need to calibrate ur display.

Else, u can view ur movies any way u want, its entirely up to u.

Music is different. There are no real specs to adhere to. The people responsible for mixing the discs for home use have to assume how the listening environment shd be as there are no established specs.

Video content has well defined specs that allow the studios to master them for consistency.

I believe this is the wrong thread but the galaxy cm-140 is pretty good

I will be adding to the 1st page with more details and if possible the basics of calibrating with a meter soon.

Stimuli is luminance or intensity/brightness level. Think of it like this, the greyscale is levels of white from 0% luminance to 100% luminance (at 5% or 10% intervals).

When we calibrate colour, we normally either calibrate at 75% luminance levels or 100% luminance levels. If the colour decoding is correct, it will be linear at all levels of luminance.

There are other sets that have this issue.

There can be 2 kinds of errors for colours, one is as described above (when u measure say cyan at 40% levels cyan shifts to blue instead of staying where it was when u measured at 75% levels) or the other error is luminance errors at different saturations of colour ( remember that colour is normally calibrated fully saturated). Will try to add some info on colour decoding errors in this thread.

There definately seems to be a colour decoding error on the Elites. There are also colour decoding errors in other sets, some subtle some clear. The calibrator needs to understand the error and minimize it (meaning deciding which is more serious and how u can compromise...)

spec,

There is no control to calibrate that on the displays for different stimuli. The displays shd be linear and most of them are, but some are not. Some errors are more serious than others.

Colour is normally calibrated and checked at 75% and 100% intensity. However, unless there is a full 3D LUT there is no way to fix these kinds of inconsistencies in the colour.

As I said, there are otehr displays out there with colour decoder issues.

Break in is a debated topic. The reason it came about is that when the phosphors are in the infancy stage, the sets show more IR and if the owner does not understand that the nature of phosphor based technology and leaves bright static images for long periods of time, it can result in burn in.

Its entirely up to u. Just remember to vary ur content for the 1st 20hrs or so of ur display and try not to have bright static images. Keep ur brightness and contrast low during the early life of ur plasma if u decide not to break in ur display. Just be cautious. The newer sets do show more resilience anyway.

The Samsung has excellent controls to dial in ur set to close to the Rec709/NTSC/PAL colour spaces, however, deciding if u want it calibrated, is entirely up to u. Read the 1st few slides on why calibrate is necessary and u can decide.

The calibrator either has connections with the relevant calibration communities (ie ISF/THX) who highlight issues they see or finds them out himself when he calibrates the display for the 1st time. Thats why it takes more time when a calibrator is working on that particular model for the 1st time.

As I said, there are different types of colour decoder errors. Some are luminance shifts at different saturations, some are hue shifts during different saturations/luminance. On some occasions, a particular setting or value can make it worse. Some times calibrators have to make a choice if the error is livable and which is the lesser devil.

Colour decoding errors can also be in the form of decoding the encode using the wrong matrix. This was dominant in the Sigma Design chipset and some early Reon chipsets. The encode was for HD but due to a problem in the chipset it would decode unflagged HD content using the SD matrix.

Calibrators can also catch this by watching known material and as they spend more time with calibrated images can see these issues. If they are subtle, they let it go, but if its obvious and they cannot fix it they shd let the customer know.

Colour decoding is part of the video processor functions.

Of course, the calibrator needs to rule out other stuff in the display chain that can also cause errors. Thats why most calibrators 1st calibrate using a known reference test pattern generator as they know that it does not send the signals wrongly. Then the calibration is done thru the actual display chain, ie, AVR, BD player, external video processor, and if they see issues that are not seen with the test pattern generator they will start a troubleshooting process that will try to identify the root cause.

Also take note : the problem might not have been there during initial certification and might have been added due to some other fixes they made. Do remember that the initial Elites had the yellow subpixel shut off in THX mode for a reason, however it changed later. Also when I said communities I meant private forums for ISF and THX certified calibrators where other stuff is discussed as they find them

This post has been edited by anfieldude: Jan 19 2012, 02:30 PM

In my experience, there are so many variations between batches/firmwares that makes using those settings worse off then just using the Movie/Theater/Cinema/THX/Pro mode on ur display.

U shd calibrate in the environment condition that u wish to watch in. Typically for critical viewing it shd be done in a dim environment with no direct lighting hitting the display.

Since I hv my own meters, I do it all the time. LCDs/Plasmas thankfully don't drift as much and THX recommends recalibration intervals at 1 - 1.5yrs which depends on how much u use the display. Projectors drift slightly more, depending on the light source.

Where r u based at? If in Penang, I can lend u mine and u can return after use. U can buy them from spectracal online store, but its expensive.

U can try this website as well.

JKP Productions

U can buy the DVE HD Basics BD that has the filters included, or u can get the Spears and Munsil BD that comes with filters. Both can be bought from Amazon. I do not think they are available locally.

I will check to see if I have additional filters.

I'm sorry I do not hv experience with that LCD. But it does sound like u understand its limitations. I am not sure if u can turn off the dynamic brightness/contrast in the service menu.

That's my observation as well. Its has excellent post calibration image.

Its possible, I did not see the same issue with gamma on the 65 I calibrated and I used 10% windows.

I hv the C6 but hv not tried 3D cals on it. I normally do 3D cals using the Klein K-10 with glasses on. I believe the light paths of certain meters and the way the take the measurement do not make them suitable for 3D cals. The last ST50 that I carried out for 65in, I managed to hit 32ft/L for 2D and almost 6ft/L for 2D. Ur numbers seem similar.

Hi,

These are more Dune specific, but I will answer as I own the Dunes.

1. Auto Frame Rate - I would enable it, more important for mkv where the output frame rate will match the input frame rate and u will hv no mismatch that could show dropped frames. For iso or bdmv it already defaults to the current frame rate

2. I would suggest to leave it at 8bit.

3. Enable only if u want to use HDMI CEC (which means u need to enable at ur display as well) to control all ur devices. What it does is that u switch off/on any component in the chain, it will turn all on/off. I don't use this function

4/5 - Leave it at auto as it correctly detects SD/HD colour space and decodes them

I am really backed up for calibrations now as I hv not travelled to KL/PJ/Seremban area for almost 4 months and will need to clear the backlog 1st. Will PM u on details.

Will PM u with details.