Haha, true...when 1st time i test drive the demo car at Proton Edar, i didn't notice it is so 'plastic' due to the texture of the dashboard and door trim, after i got the car only realise there are just plain plastic without rubber wrapping. That time i only said 'holy shit'... at least it look not so cheap.

Solution: 1. Adjust ur aircon vent for not directed to the side windows. Then follow by
2. Wind down your windows to let the rubber clear the mist.

Arghh Today i spotted a small gecko inside the car boot, can't get rid of it, and its hide inside the gap adi...i also notice some 'shit' left over on top of the speaker board. How come it come inside my car while my car don't have any food for it? i personally quite scare this small monster.

Any idea how to get this monster out of my car? I scare accident will happen if it suddenly appear in front of me during driving.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Jul 1 2010, 09:50 PM

Lol, i scare cockcroach as well...

Seems like our car got some space for them go in and out...

don't over worry, it seldom happen, even raining only few drops will go inside the engine bay, on top the block also got the plastic cover to protect it, a splash of water? unless u open ur hood while u driving.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Jul 4 2010, 07:28 PM

you will crash if you using stock tyre.

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Added on July 4, 2010, 9:02 pmSometimes i drive through purposely to clean my tyre and fender, should take cautious next time.


This post has been edited by coolkwc: Jul 4 2010, 09:02 PM

Shift gear refer to RPM, not speed, since different car with different gear ratio. Our BLM got short ratio, thats why low speed high RPM. Shift at nearly 3k is enuf unless u want to overtake.

Control ur left and right foot, get use to it is a only way to avoid engine stall.

i think the urine acid adi penetrate inside the paint layer.

Sorry bro I have no idea how to solve it ...but never heard metallic paint will suffer like solid paint, have to blame the ori clear coating quality is low.

Hmm i suffer before, but my car is granite grey, just when reflected, i can see the area is fade away, seems like something etch inside adi, but after few weeks the mark disappear by itself.

floor the pedal is always the best answer for it.

Now u need to learn how to control ur right foot to prevent ur engine rev till 7k.

i dun think they will let u claim the engine block which is not same as original 1.3, doesn't make sense at all, if like that everyone will try to spoil their ori engine and claim for more powerful engine.

VS won't help kickin jerk problem. Nothing to do wif the electrical system, just our engine don't have fuel compensation once u step on the throttle (at idle speed, ECU will increase fuel inject to maintain the engine speed). I 90% time the temp is minimum, sometimes hot just open fan to 2, enuf for me, at least it solve jerk problem. By this setting, the compressor will kickin every 30-35s, else if u open middle temp, it will kickin every 10s, feel suck especially at low gear during traffic jam...as long as ur car is at high speed then is ok.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Jul 17 2010, 02:49 PM

Yup, i also didn't notice this thing on friend's auto. I believe auto version they tune the ECU to switch on the compressor gradually and more slower compare to manual. For manual, the compressor mostly will on 5s then will cutoff again, and the kickin sound are totally different also. I think they consider the auto gear will trigger/down shift if compressor kickin suddenly.

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Added on July 18, 2010, 11:30 pmWhen u switch on the temp to coldest, the compressor will kickin less becos it will work/on continuously. I tested it before, it will on almost 1 to 2 minutes before cutoff. So what u get will be less jerky but underpower ride.

I always switch to warmest/lower bar temp with fan 1 or 2.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Jul 18 2010, 11:30 PM

My BLM also reach 1 year on this September, rite now is 21k mialege adi, yet to do major service. FYI, I will give up the warranty and service outside. Really not worth it, 20k is kinda new, nothing need to replace and service i have to say except for oild filter and engine oil, but they do, change this change that, wash this clean that, somemore got 'labour charge', normal minor service adi need RM180+, 70+ is labour charge, I can save and enough for me to change the engine part such as IAFM if i service at outside for few times.

Anyway, is my choice, u can still service under waranty if you want.

Got. Xshiro...

only 2 screws, behind the wiper and signal stick. If urs come with airbag don't open it.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Aug 6 2010, 02:28 PM

Nope, is 'STAR' type, u can get the tools from hardware shops easily.

Can, but not by urself, this question had been asked previously, i remembered that guy want to fix the metal vibration noise come from the horn plate, even the SC also ask him not to fix it becos of airbag, i'm not sure on that, but u can try, maybe u are the 1st one who DIY it.

Anyway, mine is without airbag, adi dismantled before by myself and fix the vibration problem.

The top arrow.

Yes.