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 LYN Proton Wira Club (LYN-PWC) V-XXIV, Come in & let's discuss about Wira

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wailup
post Sep 11 2010, 08:21 PM

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QUOTE(chaf @ Sep 11 2010, 08:12 PM)
every 5K km lo....
same as u la bro....
my engine used 1.... blush.gif
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kekkee... got mesin jahit sound ma?
i rarely race.. only 'twice' a week. sweat.gif
better go 'eco' mode, 6k km only rm100.. can save rm50.. kekekeke
wailup
post Sep 11 2010, 08:49 PM

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QUOTE(chaf @ Sep 11 2010, 08:23 PM)
my foreman write for me after 7k km baru change.... but i gatal gatal 5k go service d....
itu katak jz post THIS
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same same la.. when i was using semi syn, i 5k already change de.. the mechanics keep saying im very 'rich'
i say.. cannot tahan the mesin jahit la.. after some time, it keep ticking after 3k.. so, i shift to 'eco' mode.. same thing.. 3k only will come out sound.. huhuuu...

ftzone selling that huh...
to cure the continuous mesin jahit, i already shimmed my oil relieve valve.. got improvement.

wailup
post Sep 11 2010, 09:13 PM

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QUOTE(chaf @ Sep 11 2010, 08:54 PM)
how u shimmed...?
add washers...? how thick u add...?
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added 3 washers. those flat washers. how thick.. i din measure lo..
at that time, the mesin jahit just doesnt know when to stop. even after the engine has running hot. it still ticks when it's idling. the shimming seems to kill the ticking

went thru some trouble installing them, as some mechanics giving me their 'opinions' when i ask them to do the shimming. one say i need to know the pressure and install pressure gauge la. one says that the pressure will makes oil leaks thru the seals la.. one say the method is wrong la, install those 'racing oil pump' la. one say, service the hydraulic lifters everytime they ticks la but he say no guarantee after each service that the tick sound will sure be gone woh... doh.gif
i say, dun talk too much la.. just do it, and i choose how many washers i want.

This post has been edited by wailup: Sep 11 2010, 09:38 PM
wailup
post Sep 11 2010, 10:56 PM

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QUOTE(chaf @ Sep 11 2010, 10:42 PM)
icic... thanx for the info....
my tickling noise is getting worse n very irritating.....
kenot tahan d.....
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u're welcome. if got money, should buy from ftzone and pray it stays quiet forever..

wailup
post Sep 11 2010, 10:59 PM

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QUOTE(chaf @ Sep 11 2010, 10:57 PM)
yup.... soon soon..... tongue.gif
jz changed clutch.....
no budget liao....
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oh shyt.. you have the same problem with clutch? my clutch slips when i WOT.
wanna change the clutch at the end of year.. which clutch did you get?
and.. CHELSEA rulez!

This post has been edited by wailup: Sep 11 2010, 11:00 PM
wailup
post Sep 11 2010, 11:55 PM

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QUOTE(chaf @ Sep 11 2010, 11:04 PM)
my clutch from halfcut neva change.... start to slip....
change to WORKS pro 400.....
MAN U  vmad.gif  vmad.gif  vmad.gif
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WORKS? how much izzit? heavy or not?
wailup
post Sep 11 2010, 11:58 PM

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QUOTE(chaf @ Sep 11 2010, 11:56 PM)
bought RM900... clutch n pressure plate....
not as heavy as exerdy 1....
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exedy , you're saying 3 pucks one?
wailup
post Sep 12 2010, 12:02 AM

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QUOTE(chaf @ Sep 11 2010, 11:59 PM)
yaya those 3 pucks 1....
my fren's car use tat 1....
its reli reli heavy....
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some says it's better to drive with exedy than trinity. so i assume it's light.
maybe i should try WORKS 400 ... thx for the info. smile.gif
wailup
post Sep 12 2010, 12:25 AM

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QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Sep 12 2010, 12:14 AM)
add washer at the bottom of the valve lifter??.. valve lifter suppose to act as damper (or some sort)... by adding washer at the bottom, u compressing the valve lifter all the time??... unsure.gif
works and trinity dun have spring on the clutch plate to absorb vibration
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not at the valve lifter. but at the oil pressure relief valve. location, nearby the oil pump.
the 'theory' is, after some time, the spring tends to fatigue and lost its 'strength', hence a softer spring will allow more oil to be returned to the oil sump. hence, oil is less at the head (oil starvation). that's one of the reason that the mesin jahit will sound. by shimming it, you stiffen up the spring and hold back more oil to the head.

i just wander thorough the WORKS website. i did see they have spring on the clutch plate woh.. trinity i know doesnt have la..
wailup
post Sep 13 2010, 08:34 AM

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QUOTE(jtcs87 @ Sep 12 2010, 08:36 PM)
Not so understand about it. Mine one just normal usage car only. Not for race. Don't know choose which one of it. rclxub.gif
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i would recommend, if your car doesnt 'eat' engine oil. then go for 10w-40.
if not, go for 15w, still cannot, 20w lo..
wailup
post Sep 13 2010, 11:59 PM

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QUOTE(xxboxx @ Sep 13 2010, 11:15 PM)
my car didn't eat oil engine, can use 5w-40?
shop only left mineral and fully syn..  dry.gif
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can use 5w ah.. if it eats the oil. then the next time only shift to 10w or 15w lo..
for me, mineral or fully syn.. it's up to your wallet la. although, the best will be the fully syn.
wailup
post Sep 14 2010, 12:15 AM

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QUOTE(ebbster @ Sep 13 2010, 09:17 PM)
hi still new to this thread. and a newb to cars lingo so pardon me if i don't understand much.

my car is wira 1.3, manual, bought in 1999. last time service was in april. when made a turn, left side start creaking so i thought i got it fixed by the mechanic. but when i told him that he said i need to change spring (the spring has never changed).

things got worse if i have a passenger, even a soft right turn will give a loud creak sound. even parents said my car is not that smooth anymore.

issue is:
1) what should i do with that loud sound when make a turn to right?
2) what should i service on my next maint? btw, any good reliable specific workshop opens in seremban at this festive time?
3) car got overheat last time on highway, strange because water tank was full, prolly happened because it was hot and i turned on air cond. when air cond was off after the engine cooled off, it's not overheating again. why is this happening?
4) changed my back window because a rock flew in while i was driving back hometown and it smashed to pieces. was charged rm450 for the replacement at a window car shop nearby tesco seremban. was it a fair price?

kindly apologise beforehand for the long questions. cheers.
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spring normally wont spoilt unless, it becomes soft. thats when you bring full load, and your car starts to become soft and bouncy. some will say it's the absorber problem. well, sure by changing absorber, the spring will feel stiff again, but very soon, after a year. your absorber will leak and problem will come again. this is when your spring should be changed.

wira is very common to have sound 'keluk' when going over hump, holes or hard turn. this is because the spring 'sitting' is no good. it has room for the spring to 'run'. hence the sound came out when it's absorbing shocks.

your radiator could have some of the water pathway blocked. i have this experience last time when i was running at 160kmh. normal speed wont overheat. only when running high rpm it will overheat. went to a radiator shop to service the radiator internal, and problem solved.
wailup
post Sep 17 2010, 08:27 AM

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QUOTE(ebbster @ Sep 15 2010, 02:20 AM)
ty for the help. if it's about the water pathway blocked was the reason, how much does it cost to service the radiator?
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about rm100 something. (include changing the radiator top cover)
wailup
post Sep 19 2010, 04:25 PM

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QUOTE(compucraz @ Sep 19 2010, 03:40 PM)
drop in?

i thought drop in almost same like normal air filter??
correct me if im wrong bro..
still newbie..
tongue.gif
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a KNN drop in has lesser air restriction which allow easier air to be sucked in.
an open POD is even better, but you will need to make a box for it (to isolate the heated air from being sucked in, hot air is bad for the engine).
for me, a CAI is enough.

This post has been edited by wailup: Sep 19 2010, 04:27 PM
wailup
post Sep 19 2010, 08:32 PM

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QUOTE(compucraz @ Sep 19 2010, 04:49 PM)
ehm...how about using the standard air box for open pod bro?
or need to put CAI?
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got standard de airbox for open pod?? hmm .. i dunno, i only know custom made ones.. even after custom made, yer still need to put in the CAI.

for 1.5A, you will need to throw the cat-con away and put in a restrictive centre box. the muffler can use bigger 'tank' de.. but must be S-FLOW type. the exhaust diameter maintain.
wailup
post Sep 20 2010, 11:38 PM

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QUOTE(jtcs87 @ Sep 20 2010, 11:27 PM)
I have one 1.6 (A) for 1995 wira. Just curious to know got what kind of things that i can modify for those engine parts. Don't expect for overhaul methods.  cry.gif

PS: I'm not a racing kaki, just prefer on use less fuel consumption only.

Is that change for sports rims will less the fuel consumption also?  rclxub.gif
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1. 4-2-1 exhaust extractor.
2. remove cat-con.
3. change to bigger muffler.
4. use platinum and above spark plugs.
5. use 10w-40 engine oil or 5w-40.
6. use STEEL RIM only.
7. change driving habit. (try not to keep doing acceleration, maintain constants speed above 60kmh.)

8. change to MANUAL GEARBOX if possible.**

this is my own opinion la.. see what other sifu may say.



wailup
post Sep 21 2010, 12:05 AM

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QUOTE(jtcs87 @ Sep 20 2010, 11:55 PM)
1-4, don't know what is that.. Sorry..  cry.gif

5. Using 20w-50 engine oil now since i want to see my whether will eat engine oil or not.. Will upgrade it after get the result..  brows.gif

6. STEEL RIM & how many inches should go? 14" again?

7. I always drive for around 60km/h during city drive except highway.

8. Unable to do so..  cry.gif
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1-4. is the exhaust system upgrade.

6. i would prefer 15" for stability, but of coz, will kill off some FC due to wider tyre.

i wonder... sometimes, do so many thing, just to save some few cents on the mileage.. but izzit in the long run, will it cover up the investment we did before and after that, then only the saving comes in.. just wonder ya... sweat.gif
wailup
post Sep 23 2010, 10:23 PM

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QUOTE(afosz @ Sep 23 2010, 09:13 AM)
I'm driving 1.5 and having the exact same problem. TB cleaned, installed FICD, changed the ISC (recon) but still the same. Sometimes ok, sometimes towards full stop, RPM drop very low. I have to prepare at N to rev, or distance myself a bit so that I can keep on pressing the gas pedal.
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wow.. you have FICD and also a recon ISC.. either one is enough jor.. but if the symptoms still persist.. then the problem should be elsewhere liao.. are you saying only when high rev, then let go, the idling will drop kaw kaw and then engine just die? could be caused by overfuelling.

QUOTE(afosz @ Sep 23 2010, 08:08 PM)
Installed it, didn't actually solve the problem. The engine didn't die though, but when aircond kicks in, RPM drops like knocking 3 times almost die, but then ok, slowly going up.
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you installed it but its response is slow ya... do you know where is the FICD air hose connect to? normally when the air cond kick in, during idling, the rpm sure will drop, but will raise up very fast de.
wailup
post Sep 24 2010, 12:00 AM

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QUOTE(afosz @ Sep 23 2010, 11:29 PM)
Erm, actually I used FICD before. Like I mentioned earlier, when aircond kicks in, engine almost died like RPM go down knocking 3 times then it goes up again normal. Then I don't feel quite satisfy, I bought recon ISC. Installed it and remove FICD. At first, works fine. Then some time later, when aircond kicks in, it knocks and if I'm unlucky enough, engine died. I usually prepare to press gas a bit so that when RPM goes down, I just rev a bit until the knocking finishes. Rev a bit can be either in N, or D but the car is not moving, just like balancing clutch and gas mode for MT tongue.gif
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this is no good at all.. kekeke..
did you ask the mechanics on what could be the problem?
maybe some sensors is being faulty... or any blocked valve..

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