of course la! i just posted to share some of the ridiculous things ppl sell on the internet!

Questions:
1. Can i change to Waja springs but remain using my standard Wira1.5 absorbers? Coz just changed the front not long ago, dun wanna waste money How extra tall will the car be, roughly?
2. anyone got tips how to remove the side OEM spoilers on our Wira? The plastic spoilers on the side mirrors... All 4 of them i wanna remove, but i scared the double-side tape very hard to remove cleanly. anyone, please?

mine also got this sound when going over bumps. but cornering no sound.
last time i asked in this forum, they suspect is a worn bush. doesnt affect handling or anything, just annoying.
ask you mech to check, and if can be used, just oil it. if sound goes away, no need replace for now

sifoo, please help see my question #1 above, what u think Alvin?

wah.... 5-6hours driving will bring ur engine oil to DRY, sounds serious. i'd rather send to trusted mech to check, rather than guess n topup engine oil like that. i thk the amount u spent on topup will accumulate a lot. Your radiator probably got a leak somewhere. I suggest the simplest thing, change your radiator cap first. what is your engine temperature during driving?

u mean swap the new gauges into your OEM panel?
very nice if u plan the cluster properly. i like this idea, but got no reason to do such a thing (touch wood)
look at image below, what this guy did. He basically removed the OEM panel and made his own custom panel (salute)


also this one below, found from internet. looks like it swapped in a tachometer on the right?
is that it?



This post has been edited by masao343: Mar 1 2010, 11:06 AM

it may return. mine only have sound when the weather is cold (at first)
sometimes it vanished completely for days.
my mech had checked and put oil for me last time.

yeah, i had to topup my engine oil almost weekly (not too much, but still need) until i changed my oil cap.
then problem solved

can repair, usually. sent to radiator service shops.
aluminium conducts way better than steel, and is rust-proof. depends on the price.
but then again, IMHO i really dont think you get significant benefit from an aluminium radiator besides the "gut feeling".
normal radiators last a long time too, and works good enough anyways - but its your money, so u decide.

DIY lor... buy a 3M hook (kitchen use type) and stick there. kao-tim!


p/s:
how do you drive a left-drive car in Malaysia?
like this lor!


This post has been edited by masao343: Mar 2 2010, 03:42 PM

copper conducts heat better (if remember my PC overclocking last time haha)
but aluminium is much lighter, something like a premium mod for the radiator lor.
but the price... worth or not is up to the owner liao

one day, you decided to mod your exhaust....
so you went to exhaust shop, picked a nice exhaust packages,
then asked the shop to install it... you wait in eagerness of the new exhaust,
wonder what the sound is, how powerful it is....
then while you're in your dream, you heard a crash sound, and your eyes awaken to see...THIS....
what would you do?






anyway, WTS: China brand lightened drier's seat.
guaranteed to lighten your car (compared to normal seat) by 70%
Call for best price:

if dismantel the car, sell parts by parts off, how much thk can fetch? more money compared to sell whole car

nowadays, if steal a car, just dismantle n sell as parts.
that's what the thief do, and also why they purposely target heavily modified cars.
coz the parts can fetch more money. imagine malaysia got ppl who buy old "original" ralliart RM350 mudflaps...

i believe all car air-conds has air filter.

mine usually every alternate car service... means about 10k each change of all 4 pc
sparkplugs = cheap item, better change before it deteriotes too much

how to remove side door spoilers? i worry the glue residue...

cable change only if your current one has deteriorated.
else no benefit at all, except lighter wallet.

i think it is your muffler making those noise.

catalytic converter makes minor differences only. i say this based only on my own experience. i changed my cata-con to a tube (same as yours) and also changed extractor and larger piping, but remain old muffler.... that time, my car sound a bit noisier, but only marginal. only after i changed muffler, the sound changed in a big way. so... i suspect its your muffler. perhaps some guru's here can share some light.



This post has been edited by masao343: Mar 9 2010, 03:52 PM

guys, my 1.5 clutch starting to slip liao.
plan to change soon, and would like to change to something "better" than stock. apa recommendation? brand, price please? i dont want halfcut, coz prefer brand new...

spoiler on wiper is that little plastic thing that is flat and is mounted on the wiper arms.
not sure it actually works or not, but no harm having one, since its not heavy.

This post has been edited by masao343: May 4 2010, 10:59 AM

isnt exedy the OEM ?
unless u mean got different type for Exedy?
tai-kor, pls explain more, coz i noob...

wire short! better send it out to repair, else ur battery very kesian

for the siemens ECU, i dont think that engine light ever goes away even if you wait 5 minutes.
so usually i listen to the buzzing sound (last about5 secs?) then i crank liao...

OMG really ah? how long before the engine light goes away after u turn the ignition key?
i usually waited a couple seconds, but the light still there, i crank liao lo.... die ah, did i just do something bad all this time?

yesterday i purposely leave it there to see if the light goes away. i waited a good 2 minutes, it doesnt go off.
the engine light only goes OFF after i started the engine.

ah, same as me. means.... is this normal behaviour? anyone else can testify please?

i think it's something like booting up a computer.
the bios and everything electrical needs to self-check before loading the OS

there was a debate (not too long ago) on this topic about whether or not "warming" up the engine is needed for new cars. many car owners say they never warm up their engines before driving off, even in cold mornings. they claim no noticeable difference in car performance. while no doubt, new cars with good ECU will automatically compensate (auto choke?) the cold engine with proper AF mixture, i'm actually more concerned about having all the engine parts properly lubricated before you put the load (driving off) on the engine. you all know how thick (tebal) the engine oil is when at room temperature, rite? imagine getting this thick oil into smaller, tight areas. at higher temperature, the engine oil would have turned thin, and hence easier to reach those "hard to reach" areas (pinjam from dental advertisements). so, thought it may not be needed, i still let my engine warm up for a short while before driving off. this is not necessary unless you car has been sitting idle for a long time (engine oild may have seeped back to reservoir by then). and since my engine isnt exactly a new model (ori MMC engine was designed in early 90's?) i'd prefer to play it safe, compared to newer engines.

oh no wonder, tot you missing dunno where already Alvin
myself also, been crazy with work, now only free a little bit to kacau u all hehe