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 The Official Subwoofer Thread v3, Everything you need to know about bass!

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pierreye
post Jul 28 2010, 11:50 AM

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If you need a preamp with analog crossover to sub + HT bypass, I narrow down the choice to Emotiva USP-1 and Parasound 2100. If you need full range bypass for HT then your choice would be parasound 2100 as Emotiva can't passthrough full range for HT bypass option and the lowest it will go for the crossover is 50hz. But it's a good choice for me as my speaker is only rated down to 80hz only.

Time for you to call Mark for pre-own amp version of Submersive.

Thye Huat adapter a bit cheapo. Fedex should deliver the plug and meter today from Part Express. Damn 25% tax again.

Added on July 28, 2010, 11:55 am
QUOTE(ronnt88 @ Jul 28 2010, 11:33 AM)
shhh.... pls don't market this as to protect my exclusive ness ... kakak laugh.gif
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No worry. I'm not getting the submersive. If I didn't built the sub than I would call Mark every morning until I get him a confirm shipment. rclxm9.gif

This post has been edited by pierreye: Jul 28 2010, 11:55 AM
pierreye
post Jul 28 2010, 01:27 PM

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QUOTE(anfieldude @ Jul 28 2010, 12:03 PM)
The only thing I am not so sure abt the Submersive is that for me I would require more inputs. The Submersive has only one mono input. For 2 channel stereo, you would need to use a SMS-1 that has that the required inputs/outputs to do what I want. Or you would need stereo to mono summing box.

I know one thing based on my listening the last few days, the DaliIkon Sub is just not going to cut it on its own. I need a better sub for sure. The F15 is a definately something to consider. The Seaton Submersive or the PB13-U is the holy grail (eD I think as well, but i'm not a diy person with wood..., soldering here and there and making simple circuits are ok, but wood....I doubt).

The new amps on the PB13U are also cool. I think I will stop saying good things about the Seaton as that would mean ron losing his exclusivity. This way we can all drool abt the Seaton. biggrin.gif. Its one good sub IMHO!

Also on the HT bypass, there are some options like Odyssey Candela (tube amp with HT bypass), Parasound.. I am not too sure abt the USP-1 for now.
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With the preamp I listed above, you only need one mono input. The bass will be redirect to the mono sub output from the preamp.
pierreye
post Jul 28 2010, 07:22 PM

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QUOTE(htkaki @ Jul 28 2010, 05:01 PM)
It's a complete B&W 8 series system. The size sld be abt 22' x 55'  sweat.gif
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This would be my dream HT. With 4 submersive at each corner.
pierreye
post Aug 8 2010, 08:34 AM

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I'm trying to get some help from eD and HometheaterShack on some of the issue I observed. I'll shift the sub around 1.5 ft to the left and re-measure. I still had problem my Onkyo 805 sub output over saturating my BFD sub input. I also notice when the peak is overloading, it will overflow to the second channel. Maybe I need to use a RCA to XLR cable with the ground cable lifted. I suspect ground is tie to all channel which cause the signal overflow to other channel.

Anfieldude, if you don't mind, another test I want to try is swapping out the receiver. I suspect the voltage output from the sub out is too high that cause my BFD to overload. The max input for BFD input is 1.6 vrms.

Added on August 10, 2010, 11:24 amI managed to solve the BFD input clipping issue. Just switch the sensitivity from -10db to +4db and voila, no more RED clipping light.

Now, I have to solve the bottom out issue. I found a good place for the sub with very good freq response but it's outside the false wall. I'll try a few combination first before deciding.

This post has been edited by pierreye: Aug 10 2010, 11:24 AM
pierreye
post Aug 26 2010, 09:41 PM

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Replacement driver is here yesterday and done the installation. Test out the iron man cave scene and no more clanking sound even at reference level (volume at 0db)!
pierreye
post Aug 27 2010, 07:44 AM

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I think one of the reason is traditionally most of us will think a branded sub performance will never surpassed a ID sub at the same price range. In fact, base on the review, Paradigm DSP3400 looks like a very good bargain below RM 5k range. I'm interested in DSP3400 now as if I were to DIY a ported 13Av.2 single sub, I estimate at least RM 500 for cabinet and another RM 2.5k for a 1kw amp plate. Might as well get a DSP3400 and call it a day. Anyone had a chart of the freq response of DSP3400? Max SPL before major distortion kick in?

We are here to share information. Not that we worship a single brand. If you ask me, Am I happy with A7s-650? Yes. Is there any other brand I'm interested? Definitely... especially the Submersive HP... if only Mark is responsive.

This post has been edited by pierreye: Aug 27 2010, 07:47 AM
pierreye
post Aug 31 2010, 08:26 AM

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I think it would feel like in a pressure cooker. Even running dual sub now, I can feel the air pressure and in explosion scene, the tactile feel is unreal. It's like bass shaker installed.

This post has been edited by pierreye: Aug 31 2010, 08:27 AM
pierreye
post Nov 4 2010, 10:18 AM

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You can check the spider. Normally the first thing to koyak if overdrive.
pierreye
post Nov 4 2010, 10:04 PM

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Sub25... must do a comparison to Submersive. Congrats!!!
pierreye
post Nov 5 2010, 03:38 PM

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QUOTE(azbro @ Nov 5 2010, 12:20 PM)
OK, I'll try out 'Small' Pity, nice floorstanders...hope i get the same midbass punch using 'Small'
Thanks, but seriously, dun understand at all  blush.gif
I check the Avia II disc and it has freq sweep even for the Subs..so I tested it...seems OK...no funny cracking sound.

I can't be sure if it is the Source or not.

I have 3 problematic movies for the bass.
True Legend (CHD) : The bass cracks at certain parts even when I turn down the volume soft. Thats for DTS, when i change to DD, it sounds a bit different, but there were no crack sound.
Avatar Last Airbender (cbgb): The bass cracks at 1 scene. Couldn't change audio as it came with DTS only.
Legend of Boneknapper Dragon Untouched: There were 2 parts were the Boneknapper Dragon started having voice coming out from the Sub! Thats for DolbyTrueHD, but normal AC3 it was fine.

In all occasion, even making the volume softer didn't change anything. Can still hear go crack sound.

Anyway, see how it goes..
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I just watch Airbender (1080p cbgb) this morning, bass is solid. Don't think it is source issue.
pierreye
post Nov 5 2010, 10:14 PM

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Tomorrow morning you can tell your neighbor that there is another earthquake in Indonesia tonight smile.gif
pierreye
post Nov 18 2010, 11:18 AM

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ronnt, drink some herbal tea and cool down. I just basically ignore and no need to waste energy to reply anymore.
pierreye
post Nov 18 2010, 11:34 AM

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QUOTE(ronnt88 @ Nov 18 2010, 11:23 AM)
ok.... when got makan ular & go back early bro? wanna go test test ur system la.. biggrin.gif
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Can. I arrange one day. See got how many snake show up. There's still one more item I'm waiting. A DIY 300w per channel ClassD amp. Now I'm down from 7.1 to 5.1 channel.
pierreye
post Nov 18 2010, 07:01 PM

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Search his nickname + car. Busy taking chick(s) for a ride.
pierreye
post Nov 19 2010, 07:33 AM

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Hey... my four door version. Family use only. Yours two door, kau lui version. smile.gif
pierreye
post Nov 19 2010, 12:30 PM

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You get the one behind and it get you the other one in front. Chick magnet mah...
pierreye
post Nov 30 2010, 09:29 AM

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Maybe you should bring your Sub25 to Shuto1 and try out dual Sub25. Then we all know how "geng" is dual Sub25. Malaysia boleh...
pierreye
post Jan 17 2011, 09:58 PM

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Price is great for FV15HP. Considering this sub for my living hall.
pierreye
post Jan 22 2011, 11:27 PM

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QUOTE(DannyOP @ Jan 22 2011, 07:32 PM)
Wahh all subs? Where is the front speakers?
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I think the front speakers are the JBL Pro Cinema speakers. It throws out huge vertical dispersion and very high efficiency that doesn't had any distortion in very high spl.
pierreye
post Jan 31 2011, 10:52 AM

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There's some valid concern that the sub gain is so low that when the AVR output at max volume, it's not able to drive the sub to it's max performance thus under perform. I remember reading this in SubMersive thread where Mark advice to set it at certain position in order for AVR able to drive the sub at optimum level.

Let's look at the AVR max voltage output, normally at 1.2v. If the gain is set so low that the max 1.2v output, the sub only see 1.2v as half the max power output, then we might only drive the sub to half of it's max performance.

Anyway, the general idea is to make sure the sub trim in AVR is +-3db but not a hard rule. If the gain is too low, just turn up the gain and decrease sub level in AVR and listen.
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