There are many shades of white.
For standard A4 paper white the economy paint will work fine.
Ie jotun jotaplast 18L for 64 bucks type..cheap and good pure white, or can also use nippon matex 18L economy white.

For A4 paper white that is on the standard series (not the 18L economy paint) pure white colour code 0001 from about 90 bucks for jotun 5L easy clean essence. If paying for colour paint price to get white..seems more fun to get colour paint instead?

For tinted white (things like crimson white la, lily white, swan white, egg white, all those 50 shades of white) it will be on the jotun colour paint series. Between 0001, light, medium, dark PM code will have slight surcharge for colours.

Above all will work for interior.
Exterior paint weathershield type recommended.

If existing old paint is not powdery and walls are not damp.. you can just paint yourself, ladder required of course. 18L paint only 65 bucks, other materials like paint roller etc also cheap. 2 18L tubs and roller, roller refills etc will not exceed 200.

As the labour price probably lumpsum basis coz small area also need time to wait for paint to dry. Labour exclude paint also will open price 1.2k to 1.5k thereabouts, hence more cost effective paint yourself.

4.5L covered two coats of a long living room 8m*3.3m in my experience. For colour paint.

Sealer recommended if walls are damp or existing paint is chalky.

18L cheap cheap only.. half the price is 7L if economy matex. Idk how the painter paint until super thin but the thing about economy paint it needs 0-1% dilution otherwise its runny and since its already pre-thinned to be cheap, the coverage sometimes need 2 coats if old paint is discoloured.

Easiest way, buy a new SMALL roller with changeable roller refills. You should not overload the roller with too much paint. Before start, make sure the roller is able to spin freely. If it already start to jam even before you use it, using such faulty roller doesn't solve the fault

Using the BIG roller for those who don't do it as a trade only magnify any problem with the roller i.e. stuck rollers or imbalanced (handle not centered). It also tires you out easily unless your arm strength is very good. Lousy rollers that don't spin well also create a lot of |||||| skipped spot issue.

P.S.
Between the SMALL roller (driving a small car like kelisa) - anyhow also easy to drive, easy to park.
The BIG roller is like driving a truck. It works well for big area only if you know how to pick a good one and use it well.

P.P.S. Sometimes stuck roller need to remove and reinsert again the other way. Or press it in more for non-removable type (it may have slipped out of correct position).

This post has been edited by ceo684: Apr 15 2021, 10:58 AM

For BIG roller this is important.
I have used non-centered rubbish roller before (for flat walls). Not a fun experience.

Non centered ones may have its special purpose like painting external piping on high rise building facade, but being unbalanced it tires you out very easily.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Apr 15 2021, 11:06 AM


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Depends on level of OCDness.
Actually that 8m x 3.3m x 2 coats = 4.5L came from Easywash colour paint.
It may vary depending on wall texture, rougher wall will use more paint than a skimmed perfectly flat one.

I felt the single coat undiluted easywash still missed a few dots here and there, to bring out full oomph 2 coats result was better than single coat.
Dilution stretches more paintable area at the expense of risking less solidness. I prefer very kiamsiap dilution so it doesn't drip everywhere.

For white colour economy matex x 2 coats will be more economical, 65 gets 18L enough to play around - whereas 98 bucks only 5L easywash.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Apr 15 2021, 11:29 AM

Easywash able to wipe clean for light stains like squashed bugs on the wall with just a damp tissue.

For "heavy abuse" external factors like crayons, marker pen, pencils, or dark plastic chair scuffed the white wall, I don't think emulsion paint will suffice.

Anything above absolute cheapest 7L RM35 matex will be OK.
Easywash will work fine already.
No need to waste money on paint above minimum standard since your walls are in good condition i presume? The easywash already tick all the core function incl long lasting colour (since the pigment for easywash and higher comes from same mixing machine)

Absolute cheapest matex memang cut corners alot in the base material and pigment so thats why it only come in fixed colours, it is cheap for CSR project.

Many of my neighbours' contractor also use easywash je for my rumaweep. Virusguard nice to have only lah..any soap and frequent 30secs of washing hands well aka sing birthday song in 3 languages will be far more effective to contain spread of virus.

So far the easy wash holds up very well, i painted a bright yellow so if it faded I'd be complaining all over already some contractor have side deal with Jxxxx shop commission I guess. Your use case for internal wall only is a piece of cake for any decent paint (ie easywash and above) series since it already cost 95 for 5L tub.

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 9 2021, 02:17 PM

Sounds like efflorescence if the white stuff is oozing out from the wall?

It sounds like efflorescence coz when the wall is wet, inside also wet, the movement of water is not great. Like you use a soaking wet towel to dry yourself after shower, it will take forever to dry yourself. When you use a dry towel (normally) then the movement of water to the towel is great.

https://www.concretenetwork.com/doug_bannis...florescence.htm

the movement of water leaving behind the mineral deposits are the cause..yes this is for flooring but can read between the lines, basically the surface dry can absorb water from inside the wall..thats why you have the white mineral deposits that come only when the surface is dry.

Hi,.
1. Brand new place, no need to remove unless dev paint is not paint but is some elcheapo powdery white powder. If it doesnt make your hand all white like flour good to go with colour paint on top.
2. For the newly repatched runs, i.e. cemented after hacking spots, should apply sealer/primer 4 weeks after cementing. To allow the cement patch to dry nicely. If u seal too early it didnt have chance to cure completely.
3. Paint the ceiling first as it is likely the white paint splatter on the wall.
4. No such issue, ventilated well dries better. Unless ur home is titanic problem project where water comes in everywhere. Hairline crack etc more towards shrinkage crack which is pretty common and more to the plastering/skimcoat stage issue.

Sis actually most welcome. Also don't throw the excess (leftover paint) so you can do putty over shrinkage cracks/ retouching as needed. Generally if walls are good condition you don't need whole 18L tub of sealer but smaller ones like 1L or 5L tub sizes will be adequate to seal over those hacking runs (assuming no new walls are added).

The colour codes you use for colour paints should be saved someplace safe like gmail or google sheets so you can order them in future. It is easy to order custom paints in almost any colour even inter-brand provided u still have the colour codes on hand.

Thank you happy to help.
Yes you are right, the new sealer just need to cover the newly cemented hacking runs only. So essentially you will not be sealing the whole house again, just the fresh (bare cement) as unsealed cement absorb paint like no tomorrow, (exaggerating here) even if you paint 5 coats it may still look obviously different, plus the fact that paint bonds well to either sealer or previous paint but NOT bare cement.

Sealer is a cheap* "stop leak" solution to stop the cement from soaking up your paint unnecessarily (its the inherent nature of cement) and to provide a nice base for the paint to bond to.

Using colour paint to act as sealer is basically a waste of money

*Whilst there are few types of sealer from cheap acrylic (interior use mostly) to expensive ones, interior sealer like nippon 5100/5400 will do fine.

The developer painted parts are good to go as they've been sealed and painted already, so you just paint over with your custom colour paint.

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 16 2021, 11:11 PM

Hi,
Did the painter clean (wipe down) the wall first before start painting?
Coz it can look "clean" to the eye but it can be dusty or powdery from other drilling, hacking work, especially if grinder was used.
Paint does not bond well to dust.

My POV is that for a great finish - more care is needed on the prep work (and using a new roller).
The actual application of the paint (the act of "using the roller/brush") is less important.

For emulsion paint, under-stirring can also contribute to the problem. As paint is a rojak of diff materials, the heavier ones tend to sink to the bottom.
Usually we use a small cordless drill and the nazi looking metal stirrer device (mrdiy got) to stir paint.


https://gardnerlaboratories.com/2013/12/09/...ional-painters/

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 18 2021, 11:09 PM

Likely the wall was hacked there, and repatched but not sealed afterwards, merely paint over. Unsealed patch (Putty or joint compound or cement) absorb water differently from the "rest of wall" so that's what happened with those hacked patch, thats why it look diff.

Need to seal those patches before repaint.

Yup, better grade acrylic sealer 1L nippon 5170 rm28 or so but only 1L la so its pretty expensive unless thats the ONLY spot..if its everywhere then can just get the normal 5L nippon 5400 for rm55 so no need worry running out of sealer, 5L will cover a whole living room wall

Painting another 10 layer without sealing the patch only repeat the same effect. That hacked part act like a very thirsty sponge.

Should be OK, unless those caked bits u didnt remove for very long then it start to attack the paint (like lizard dropping, long time didnt remove it will etch into the paint)
My rumaweep using elcheapo SKK white (developer) paint at the yard for cooking also still OK; same oil and water splash (but not titanic soaking wet). You use exterior paint macam very overkill

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 20 2021, 11:29 PM

Prep work ie wiping down the wall first is important.
Existing is new paint no need primer*.

*Previous case issue above was due to hacked spot wasn't primed thats why it absorb paint diff from rest-of-wall.

New roller refills are very cheap for the tiny one (toilet paper cardboard size). The big one harder to control if you not painter by profession.
Important to buy a roller handle that the stick is centered properly vs the roller - otherwise your hand also tired AF for nothing if imbalanced.

As for 1 coat or 2 coat if not too fussy and since its off-white on white it may work for you. If paint strong/bright colours I prefer 2 coats. Sometimes wall not even may miss a spot.

Done before, important part is your surface prep.
If old paint good condition just paint over.
You'll need a good (tall enough) ladder as well as its easier to use legs rather than trying to mess with the extension stick.

You need to check paint condition before painting. If old paint still good and not peeling/powdery then can just paint over with 2 coat colour paint.

if the old paint is total FUBAR crappy (meaning once u go over it with a roller it peels off and gunk up roller immediately) you need to stop all painting and scrape/sand/remove it before doing the 1 sealer+2 colour paint coats.

Usually 2 coat colour is best to bring out the oomph. One coat if you're not fussy because there will be missed spots. I used a total of 4.5L to cover a 8m x 3.3m wall for 2 coats (long wall in living room).

How many liter u need also depend on quality of paint. Those elcheapo 7L matex for rm35 stuff is very watered down n we only use it for CSR project. If 5L tong for 95 (nippon easywash) type that is the minimum standard for own home ya.

U need to share a floor plan (layout) of ur unit wall layout for us to better estimate how much area u need to cover. My rough guess, even assuming you have 3 rooms, 1 big bucket 18L should cover almost everything if just 1 coat - but it is likely you need 18L+5L if you do 2 coats.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Aug 5 2021, 01:06 AM

Weatherbond-type exterior series; whichever brand you choose surface need to be prepped and primed properly (waterproofing acrylic would be good idea) as well.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 20 2021, 02:01 AM