loose over time? mine is about 1 and half years old with mileage reaching 60k. the stick still feel stiff...

it doesn't bother me at all.... well let me put it this way, its auto transmission and most of the time we put in D mode... therefore the stiffness of the stick won't matter at all...

on the safe side though, having stiff stick would prevent accidental move by your kids since it has no shift lock for R and P.

Hope this information helps.

it has been done.... try searching in waja related clubs forum...

Me also DIY.. First ask them to install then realize it wrong... Me follow this layout from drexchan webpage.. 5 cable grounding layout

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Added on December 19, 2009, 11:03 pm
Not sleep yet ek.. Esok kerja (kelantan).. Me got car with 1 bar fuel.

bro sphiroth, they were doing the bulk purchase for the boot carpeting. last time i bought RM90 directly send to my sales office in puchong. its only looks good la.. no soundproof attributes..

for the door soundproofing, it will cost about rm100 if i'm not mistaken. that time got ask for lordragos.. hehe...

i think ppl here misunderstood him...

wat his trying to say is that when u put in the pump, lock at trigger, after afew second it will stop by itself...

for me most of the time will face this... have to put it at an angle for a few second 1st, the can return to normal position...
looks like can extend more km after empty tank light on... usually only go 50km max... fill in only get 39L max...

btw is it true that it's not good to always run on almost empty tank??

eastwest : rm100/door..

jolipoli: rM60 is a very very good price.

what is AFR actually? How is it work?
if it can reduce or eliminate engine vibrating/rattling, i think i'll go for it after my bonus.. 

btw, anyone had tackle the gen2 door panel rattling sound already...
it is annoying la~

want to ask...change battery according to mileage or according to month/years?? trying to change before kaput la 

For waja or sedan, normally we start off with the upper strut bar (3-points that is tied to the front suspension towers). then if you are willing to try out 16mm rear anti roll bar, you can go ahead. (i think our rear ARB is only 14mm) personally, i think the rear ARB is ok if you don't want your car to jump up and down when the road is uneven. others like the fender bars / lower 4 point bars / rear 4 point lower bars / side bars or room bars, i can't comment since i have not tried them. normally for front ARB, the original that comes with the car is good enough. if yours is a gen2 or hatchback, recommended to install the rear strut bar inside the boot (which is like front, its tied to the suspension towers)

for myself, i'm targetting the lower 4 point for front and rear. that should strengthen the chassis. but if u have lowered ur ride, it may cause some problems with the bump scrapping...

all in all, the strut bars will make ur car more rigid and flex less. so when you are on uneven road, it might cause some bumpiness.

I think my fc keep on improving. how u guys calculate the fc. can show me the formula?

http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?flying...55&id=732373706

This is the rim I install in my waja CPS yesterday. 16 inch.. Using MY-01 Bridgestone. No choice la others too expensive.hehehe.. one thing, i dont know how to drive manual car. Damn it. Mati engin 3 times today and yesterday.. Malu betul..too long nver drive manual

try this one.. 1st fill up full tank (until  nozel stop itself). run about 100km or whatever odo meter reading..
fill up full tank again(until nozel stop itself).. the price dvide to odo meter reading..
u will get the fc (rm/km).. or u can take the amount of liter, then devide it to odo meter reading..(l/km)