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 Shoes for (real) men

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beau
post Jul 24 2010, 01:37 AM

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QUOTE(gshen @ Jul 23 2010, 01:05 AM)
IMO, Vass provides the best price-quality ratio there is in the market, esp. now with the hungarian forint in the shits...Good thing that the F last also happens to be my absolute favourite last.

I've built a pretty good rotation of cheap-ish shoes off SF, eBay and outlets, and hope to replace them slowly with only Vass. Hopefully the forint stays shit.

Show off time!

user posted image
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Where would you buy Vass?

The beveled waist is great


Added on July 24, 2010, 1:46 am
QUOTE(BonVivant @ Jul 23 2010, 06:21 PM)
I just clicked on the pic to enlarge it and indeed, it does seem to be blake stitched. That is assuming that the outline on the sole is actually stitching rather than a print that looks like stitching.  Blake stitched soles is still better than cemented soles.  Cemented soles means that it's just glued on. There may be a little sticker inside the shoe indicating the composition of the shoe but an easy way to tell if it's leather or otherwise is to scratch it. This can be done with a fork or just by wearing and walking in it for a while. By scratching the surface (pardon the pun), it will be clear what's inside! It's definitely not a pair of full brogues. Full brogues have much more punching.

Thanks for the heads-up about Robinsons but I'm in the other corner of the globe!
I really like the whole Cote D'Azur look. I have a pair of Paul Smith loafers for that purpose! The only thing is, I've worn it far too many times without no-show socks and it looks a little scruffy now. It's time to bring it to a leather specialist. What I have in mind now is a pair of horsebit loafers. I was in Milan in December. Too bad I missed the Berluti outlet. Then again, while I like the distinct Berluti leather, I doubt I can pull it off.

Well, I presume that your meetings are in the City. There are lots of nice shops on Cheapside and the Royal Arcade. That means you don't have to run off to Jermyn Street or Old Bond St.
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Most of the offices have now move across the river to Canary Wharf but I tend to stay in the West End so no problems in getting stuff if time permits,. Many of the Jermyn Street vendors come over to the offices by prior arrangement as with tailors & boot makers etc. You'll be surprise how many individuals would be waiting to have their suits fitted during lunch.

You can get goodyear welted shoes at Herrings in Knightsbridge for less than STG100 ( if you go for the entry level collection. ) I'll pass you the address once I locate the card.

Your best bet for horsebit loafers is probably Stateside. A Gucci Horsebit loafer in driving shoe soles can be had for around USD90 from some of the outlets there.

This post has been edited by beau: Jul 24 2010, 01:46 AM
beau
post Jul 24 2010, 09:07 AM

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QUOTE(zariqcools @ Jul 24 2010, 02:25 AM)
Where can I find a decent oxford?
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What's your budget ? Off hand I would suggest a trip down to PLal's for a pair of goodyear welted ones. Isetan Gardens was selling discounted Alfred Sargents but sizes are limited.
beau
post Jul 25 2010, 11:44 PM

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QUOTE(chuakz @ Jul 25 2010, 11:34 PM)
I especially love the tassels
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Edward Green?
beau
post Jul 26 2010, 08:25 AM

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is another over priced & over hyped designer.
beau
post Jul 27 2010, 12:09 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 26 2010, 05:12 PM)
What wasn't perfect about it?

I was there yesterday to have them redo the heels of my Church's.


Added on July 26, 2010, 6:25 pm
BV, the soles of a shoe are impervious to moisture. If they weren't, your socks would get wet if the outsole is wet. But they don't, and your socks remain dry even after extensive walking on wet roads because there is no moisture transfer from the outsole to the insole (and vice versa). This whole "soles which breathe" story is just another marketing nonsense spread by shoemakers in the effort to get you to avoid topying your shoes. They make a lot of money re-soling old ones -- something they would do less of if customers topied their shoes.
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Went to Thomas Chan in BSC that does bespoke shoes. I am considering having him copy my aging pair of Poulsen Skones in an Oxblood wholecut.

The lady didn't understand what "goodyear welt" means .I also enquired about the lasts & fittings. The sales lady seem flustered and suggested I call the designer directly

The estimated costs are RM$700 and takes approximately a month to complete. I will call him and make enquiries on the above issues . Hopefully this can be a potential source on well constructed reasonably priced shoes without the ensuing Cantonese exchanges!!
beau
post Jul 28 2010, 09:21 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 27 2010, 12:41 PM)
Sorry to deflate your enthusiasm beau, but I don't think you should expect bespoke at that venue! They probably already have their lasts in the usual sizes, and bespoke here probably means you get to chose your materials and design. How did their finished products look like? You did inspect them, didn't you?
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There was no opportunity to inspect the finished product as the sales lady kept showing me the RTW products in an attempt to deflect my questions . I'll provide an update after I've had an opportunity to speak to the designer.

I'm not expecting much in the way bespoke shoes are made here.

There were 2 places I am aware off that made shoes , "Classic" along Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman and one in Komplex Dang Wangi near ALT.

I accompanied a friend to Classic some years back . The measurements consisted of tracing his feet on a paper pattern. There were no measurements of the instep, arch etc. No fitting was given before the shoe was "closed" ( finished )

The end result was not very inspiring either. The shoes look fine from a distance but were a tad rough rough the edges.

Oh well -hope springs eternal!!
beau
post Jul 29 2010, 01:15 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 27 2010, 12:41 PM)
Sorry to deflate your enthusiasm beau, but I don't think you should expect bespoke at that venue! They probably already have their lasts in the usual sizes, and bespoke here probably means you get to chose your materials and design. How did their finished products look like? You did inspect them, didn't you?
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Further to my last posting , I spoke to Thomas Chan. The conversation was pleasant & he seems to know his stuff. a big change after encountering the sales person at one of his outlets.

1. The price of RM$700 is for the machine made rubber soled variety. The fully handmade bespoke version will cost approximately RM$2,000 & will take 2 to 3 months. It's still faster & cheaper than the Lobbs or other European Bespoke shoes that will take a minimum of 9 months to a year for the first fitting. At STG400 , it will be the same price point as a entry level RTW Lobbs or EG or the custom grade Church's purchased in London.
2. The shoe can be made with goodyear welting as well as insoles to cater for any deficiencies with one's feet.
3. He will make a last of the feet & have 2 fittings before the shoe is closed.
4. The downside is the leather available. He can only provide Italian leather which is thiner than the English variety

He said he will have to make the shoe personally as the sifu who is experienced in making these types of shoes has just retired.He seems to know about the double stitching that is a feature of Lobbs. He suggested having a double layer of leather if the client requests for thicker leather

Food for thought but I will probably explore the other 2 outlets I spoke about before deciding on whether to pursue the bespoke path a la Malaysian.
beau
post Jul 29 2010, 07:03 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jul 29 2010, 02:04 PM)
Wow, I think lanatir is now glued to this thread and awaiting your first commission before he springs in himself. So very interesting. RM2k is not exaggerated at all if it is what I imagine it to be.
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I would be happy to defer to Lanatir to take the lead share with us the results of his efforts. Thomas Chan is reasonably articulate in English & there will be no need to translated "bevel waist" & "whole cut" to Cantonese!!
beau
post Jul 29 2010, 08:48 PM

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QUOTE(BikerVoodoo @ Jul 29 2010, 07:46 PM)
Wow. This gentleman Thomas Chan sounds good! If you're going to spend RM2k, why not go all out and import some good leather?

Timberland has some classic model shoes and boots. If you go to their Pavilion store you can order custom versions (you choose the colour combo and initials on shoe). Takes about a month for the shoe to arrive from the Dominican Republic.

I've got a friend who's been (ab)using his Timberlands for about 8 years now. Still in one piece.
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BV-I asked him about Shell Cordovan leather & he didn't seem to know about it. His ability to make shoes in different types of leather depends on where he can procure his leather which seems to be Italy. I think the Italian leather is softer & thinner ( 2 mm v 3 mm for the English variety ) If you are interested, pm me & I will pass his cell phone number to you on condition that you share pictures of the fruits of your commission with the forum.

I will check out Classic at Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman as well as the one at Wilayah Compleks before I revert with an update.At RM1,000 or RM1,500 I may have given it a go but at 2k I would save my money & buy a EG or another nice shoe when I am next in the UK.

I have a pair of boat shoes from Allen Edmonds which has repairable soles. The repair service is excellent & I have been using it for some years. They recently sent me a free pair of shoes when there was an inordinate delay in repairing my shoe without me having to request it. Now that is service you don't see in Malaysia!!
beau
post Jul 29 2010, 09:23 PM

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QUOTE(BikerVoodoo @ Jul 29 2010, 09:10 PM)
Allan-Edmonds rocks!

user posted image

Here are some of my friend's shoes. This one from before his 2007 expansion (about half of what he has now. Four of the shoes are genuine shell cordovan: right-hand side one in the second row and the first three sets on the left in the fourth row. He's quite partial to Allan-Edmonds.

His words "Some highlights - the white Grenson Masterpieces, and the Brooks black wingtips. He has both models of the Brooks classic wingtip - their "Brooks" model, made by Alden in the United States, and their "Peal & Co", made by Crockett and Jones until 2006."
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Nice


Added on August 1, 2010, 8:37 am
QUOTE(BikerVoodoo @ Jul 29 2010, 09:10 PM)
Allan-Edmonds rocks!

user posted image

Here are some of my friend's shoes. This one from before his 2007 expansion (about half of what he has now. Four of the shoes are genuine shell cordovan: right-hand side one in the second row and the first three sets on the left in the fourth row. He's quite partial to Allan-Edmonds.

His words "Some highlights - the white Grenson Masterpieces, and the Brooks black wingtips. He has both models of the Brooks classic wingtip - their "Brooks" model, made by Alden in the United States, and their "Peal & Co", made by Crockett and Jones until 2006."
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No luck in locating the two shoe makers in the Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman area I wrote about in my previous thread.

However, I came across San Lee shoes located in Taman Midah, Cheras. This company apparently specializes in custom manufacturing of dancing shoes & offers bespoke services. Not sure if anyone here has tried them .

This post has been edited by beau: Aug 1 2010, 08:37 AM
beau
post Aug 15 2010, 10:19 AM

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QUOTE(BikerVoodoo @ Aug 15 2010, 07:17 AM)
user posted image

I like these!
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Scribes?

Any info on customized Scribes? ( Not that I'm interested )


Added on August 15, 2010, 2:18 pm
QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 3 2010, 05:35 PM)
The sheen of a pisang emas is different from that of a Cuban banana.


Added on August 3, 2010, 6:08 pmPlal has the best waxes and creams in the country. And so has my favourite cobbler in Ikano.
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Good choice of stuff at Ikano, especially the Saphirs The down side is dealing with the bespectacled lady who is a typical charm school drop out at the counter . No complaints about the workmanship & repairs

This post has been edited by beau: Aug 15 2010, 02:18 PM
beau
post Aug 16 2010, 09:12 PM

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QUOTE(BikerVoodoo @ Aug 16 2010, 02:02 AM)
I believe the Continental soles are RM50 and the thinner material is RM100.
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The workmanship is not in contention, it's having to deal with the bespectacle dragon at the counter.


Added on August 16, 2010, 9:19 pm
QUOTE(attacusatlas @ Aug 16 2010, 04:13 PM)
thanks. you do have sharp eyes, eh?  smile.gif well, i think i can live with that. after all it is only a tiny loose stitch.


Added on August 16, 2010, 4:25 pm

not yet but planning to get a couple of Saphirs this weekend from the cobbler in Ikano. currently i am only applying beeswax conditioner.

what shoe care are you applying for your Cheaney/Loake in suede?
oh, for those uninformed, the cobbler also furnish refurbishing and repairing services for luxury goods. i know a couple of luxury brands are using the said services.
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Saphirs are great. They really bring life to the shoes.
I would use the Renovateur to soften & protect the leather, cream in the correct color & finish off the shine with Saphir's Pate de Luxe to give it that extra shine.

Might be cheaper if you order them on line .

There's a shop in Sri Hartamas that specializes in leather restoration. I'm having an old pair of shoes restored there.

Feel free to pm me if you are interested in the source for both

This post has been edited by beau: Aug 16 2010, 09:19 PM
beau
post Aug 17 2010, 12:53 AM

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QUOTE(silencer @ Aug 16 2010, 10:53 PM)
hahahaha.....i was going to do that...before reading your reply.....talk about..dejavu...

By the way....why no one bother talking about Ferragamo shoes....the most comfortable shoes for me....beside the prada sneakers.....and no doubt that Church shoes...is one hell of gorgeous looking shoes.....just a teaser..hugo boss shoes is taboo to be discussed here...... shocking.gif

[attachmentid=1730003]

Front -from L-R - Church, 3 Hugo Boss
back - from L-R - Lousy Timebrland, 4 Ferragamo.

Darn my S90- the pic so blur.....
* Loafer and sneakers not included...as not relevant for this thread* whistling.gif
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The suede loafers are nice.

Ferragamos are comfortable but the ones to get are the "Tramezza" Good Year welted range.

My dislike of them stems from the lack of robustness as compared to Church's


Added on August 17, 2010, 12:56 am
QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 16 2010, 11:00 PM)
I bought a tin of a shoe wax the other day. It is a brand none of you have probably heard of. The reason I bought it was because it was mahogany colour -- a nearly impossible to find colour locally -- and I applied a layer and just came back from buffing off with a horsehair brush.

Mai f***ing God. Shiny like hell, and the solvent is organic turpentine (same as Saphir). Fantastic. RM5. Will be buying more!!
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Care to share your find?

$5 versus the factor of four for Saphir would make it a good buy

This post has been edited by beau: Aug 17 2010, 12:56 AM
beau
post Aug 17 2010, 09:53 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 17 2010, 10:48 AM)
It's about the shoe, not the brand. Those shoes advertised in GQ never make the cut in SF because they are more about the brand than they are about the shoe.


Added on August 17, 2010, 10:57 amYou'll also notice that shoemakers in good regard all manufacture their own shoes. They pay salaried workers, they own the workshop, they make their skin selection, they plan their annual capex. Brands like Hugo Boss & Paul Smith use contract manufacturers in Italy. They are not shoemakers, but rather marketing machines.
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Kotmj,

You'll find many of the more sartorially knowledgable individuals concur with you. Why pay for all the advertising & marketing glitz . One may not be fashionable but one will always be well dressed if one chooses wisely.


Added on August 17, 2010, 9:55 pm
QUOTE(MeToo @ Aug 17 2010, 05:19 PM)
After the new hks extractor, full exhaust system, rims, antiroll bars, plenum, cold air intake, bodykits, brake pads, suspension... i think warranty is not really applicable.
Would you like to share your supplier? maybe we can do some bulk bespoke purchase?

On Topic : Is it even possible to have a nice shoe which we only need to polish once a month and is durable enough to wear daily?
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Better have the brakes & suspension ( as well as common sense ) to go with all the power. Otherwise the driver of the vehicle will be dressed by a mortician!!


Added on August 17, 2010, 10:09 pm
QUOTE(BikerVoodoo @ Aug 17 2010, 10:22 AM)
My friend and I went to Ferrigno-gummo at KLCC on Sunday. My friend was obsessed with a nice tan shoe they had.

Saleslady was sour faced and had a look that said, "Get outta here you dirtbags". Evidently the thought didn't just cross my mind as my friend walked straight out.

Both of us were dressed reasonably well for a casual Saturday out.

My friend ended up buying C&J Chelsea boots. Very satisfied with them.

I sent a complaint to Ferrigno-gumm via their website. No response yet.
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Local customer service has a long way to go. In the UK ( & US ) the customer is king and most retailers adopt the attitude that a customer is always right ( see Nordstroms & their no questions exchange policy )

Sad to say , the retail trade here has poor standards. Not only do the shop assistants have poor product knowledge, some of them tend to treat customers like imbeciles .

Two recent events come to mind:-

1. A friend bought two pairs of Tods from the boutique in KLCC. He discovered that one of the pairs that was given to him was not the correct size. The anguish he received trying to effect an exchange was unbelievable to say the least!!.

2. An elderly Chinese gentleman who was not well attired was denied a test drive in a vehicle of a European persuasion. Unknown to the sales personal in the show room , this gentleman could probably buy up all the cars in the show room with his pocket change!!

There should be a concerted campaign to deny these idiotic sales their commission by boycotting shops that have poor customer service!!

This post has been edited by beau: Aug 17 2010, 10:09 PM
beau
post Aug 18 2010, 10:59 AM

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QUOTE(BikerVoodoo @ Aug 17 2010, 11:58 AM)
Yeah same thing happened with me at Airmoney's clothes outlet at KLCC. There was this sales dude who sort of talked down to me with a cynical smile, saying "Our suits are RM10,000". Then he went and spoiled the image TOTALLY by saying, "But we have a 50% discount"!!! I left questioning just how much their suits actually cost.

As for shoemakers yes I fully agree! Fashion brands, be it watches, shoes or ties - we've got to be very careful. I'd never buy a fashion brand watch.

Recently a colleague started wearing Hugo Boss shoes. He doesn't care or know much about the construction, quality, etc. I asked him why and he replied, "The Chairman likes the brand and knows I'm using Hugo Boss suits and shoes. That's all that matters".
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Glue doesn't cost much hence the 50% discount

There's no accounting for taste-monkey see , monkey do!!


Added on August 18, 2010, 11:00 am
QUOTE(BikerVoodoo @ Aug 18 2010, 09:37 AM)
Agreed. The sales staff did not know the difference between Goodyear-welted and glued-on soles. sad.gif
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Most of the staff in the local shoe shops think that "Blake" refers to the model of the shoe & "Goodyear" has something to do with your car!!


Added on August 18, 2010, 11:01 am
QUOTE(gshen @ Aug 18 2010, 12:34 AM)
SF ShoeCircle in Singapore - user posted image

USA, UK, Italy & Hungary were all represented!
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Planning to have a similar gathering again in Kuala Lumpur and/or Singapore?

This post has been edited by beau: Aug 18 2010, 11:01 AM
beau
post Aug 18 2010, 11:16 AM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Aug 18 2010, 09:27 AM)
I always wonder, do the mortician provide the black suit or one have to get it premade just incase? How about the shoes?

Brakes 4 pot front, 2 pot rear brembo (do not use brembo pads ever, they are like the bonia of the shoe world). Nismo S-tune suspension complate set, which makes my car love speed bumps.. *scrape sssscrape*
I have to agree on poor product knowledge, most of the time if the customer even did a teeny bit of research before going into the shop, they would have mnore product knowledge then the sales person.

However, I did find the customer service to be improving, we have less of those dumb sales people who still judge customer by what they wear. Cause most are learning the hard way that those ah pek type with shorts and sandals are the ones with wads of cash in the pocket..
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They have to fit the jacket in quick time before rigor mortis sets in. No need to show the shoes as the bottom half of the coffin can be kept closed to cover the mutilated limbs resulting from the car crash. Otherwise buy the stripe pants from Kotmj's bundle shop.

Most folks focus on the engine & HP without taking a holistic view of the driving experience & safety.Good tyres are also essential.

Great thing about shopping in the West is the fact that they treat everyone as a potential customer which should be the case. The customer may not be able to afford the product today but you want him to think of how well he was treated & aspire to owning your product , purchasing it one day when he can afford it..

Paris & Parisians in general may be arrogant but the warmest & best customer service I've encountered there was at Charvet the shirtmakers. Made me feel as welcome as a kampung wedding!!
beau
post Aug 18 2010, 03:32 PM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Aug 18 2010, 11:52 AM)
I try not to touch my car's engine, just make the ride safer/more comfy. My tyre is shit i gotta admit, FK452... feels like SS tyres when it rains.. and being FR doesnt help..

Parisians are pretty arrogant, even their ugly stewardess is bad. Infact, their service sector made me feel as if I owe them $$ the moment i walk in. However, the LV store is decent, maybe cause they have a bunch of diff ethnicity to service different clients. Actually, most of the stores that deals with tourist on regular basis is more acceptable.

By the way, any thoughts on these?
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Good tyres are essential to safety & performance. I usually use different widths in my front & back to give mine better handling. Downside is the costs as tyres can only be swapped left to right & not rotated in the normal manner .

Interesting although I'm not partial to square toes. It could do with some polish & glazing at the quarters & toes to give it a bid of patina . Care to provide more details on the shoes & where you got them from?
beau
post Aug 20 2010, 11:11 PM

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QUOTE(LiLFreaK @ Aug 19 2010, 07:11 AM)
its armani ?

i think 50% discount are for last for 2 last seasons stuffs (F/W 2009)

previous season stuffs are discount at 30%-40% i think(S/S 2010)

no discount on F/W 2010 stuffs yet
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Hate to rain on your parade but what you've paid for a RTW Armani here could have bought you a started Hand made to measure version in Italy!!

beau
post Aug 21 2010, 03:12 PM

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QUOTE(LiLFreaK @ Aug 21 2010, 01:16 PM)
i dont like black color leather soles though ..

i prefer this color sole

user posted image

look classier  tongue.gif

anyway after seeing that shia labouf wearing it i have put this gucci mocassins on my next to buy list lol tongue.gif
haha its ok  tongue.gif its just one of my life goal to have 1 suit from GA so now i am contented that i finally manage to save money and get it  biggrin.gif
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Good thing your dreams have come true

Shoes:- I prefer the horse bit (snaffle) without the colored canvas , preferably in a driver's shoe configuration. Colored canvas speaks of too much bling as with bamboo snaffle
beau
post Aug 22 2010, 08:22 AM

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QUOTE(LiLFreaK @ Aug 21 2010, 07:05 PM)
yea i did told her to very careful i only asked her to iron the sleeves tho  tongue.gif

yea after ironing it it seems that it still wrinkled oh well  i guess you are right my gf said it could be meant to be wrinkled too blush.gif
thanks

yea i am kinda sucker to bling  blush.gif
oops sorry
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It's good to know that the marketing machine is effective on some members of the population.

Perhaps the picture was not well taken but the jacket looked too tight on you .

This is worse than I thought :- you have paid for a GA jacket what you could have gotten for a starter Armani MTM suit.

Are you sure that this is their own manufactured item ( the Borgo 21 ) or a sub contracted make by Vestimenta ? Given the fact that this was discounted may suggest that it's the fused version before the higher priced non fused versions.

A good test of whether this will withstand time is whether you are able to wear it without too much shame in a few years time.

Think of those wedding photos where friends have worn white 3 piece suits a la Saturday Night Fever!!


Added on August 22, 2010, 8:32 am
QUOTE(beau @ Aug 22 2010, 08:22 AM)
It's good to know that the marketing machine is effective on some members of the population.

Perhaps the picture was not well taken but the jacket looked too tight on you .

This is worse than I thought :- you have paid for a GA jacket what you could have gotten for a starter Armani MTM suit.

Are you sure that this is their own manufactured item ( the Borgo 21 ) or a sub contracted make by Vestimenta ? Given the fact that this was discounted may suggest that it's the fused version before the higher priced non fused versions.

A good test of whether this will withstand time is whether you are able to wear it without too much shame in a few years time.

Think of those wedding photos where friends have worn white 3 piece suits a la Saturday Night Fever!!
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ps Don't apologize for being a sucker for bling. Just remember that less is more and those who have don't need to show. Why look like a bill board or something from a magazine when one can have individual style ( which doesn't have to be expensive or designer brand dependent )

For what you have paid you could have made a bespoke suit in London & still wear that several years down the line ( provided your weight remains constant & opted for a more classical style ). You may not be considered fashionable but you'll always be regarded as well dressed.

By getting on the designer bandwagon, you will constantly be required to keep in trend otherwise you will look dated and everyone will know that you've been wearing that "Armani " jacket for the umpteen time!!

You should also poll women on what they think of men who succumb to bling!!

All seems superficial & shallow but this is really my personal opinion. However to each his own otherwise the world will be a bland place.

This post has been edited by beau: Aug 22 2010, 08:32 AM

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