QUOTE(millenia3000 @ Aug 21 2009, 11:49 AM)
pasal tu u ada f58..esok macam mana
Photography The Sony Alpha Thread V30!, The Orange Legion
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Aug 21 2009, 11:51 AM
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#21
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Aug 21 2009, 05:11 PM
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#22
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i turned it off instead heheheh...quite annoying after sometime
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Aug 24 2009, 01:42 PM
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#23
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Aug 24 2009, 01:48 PM
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#24
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QUOTE(MemorableStudios @ Aug 24 2009, 01:29 PM) Anyway, supposed to compare A900 with D3... then they will tell u that A900 has higher MP hehe...can wait for a850 and compare that with D700 http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/t...ony-a900-f.html http://www.photoclubalpha.com/2008/10/23/t...-high-iso-body/ well, i realized that all brands will avoid head-to-head competition one.... |
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Aug 24 2009, 03:12 PM
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#25
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millenia3000: were the pics ok?
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Aug 24 2009, 03:19 PM
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#26
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Aug 24 2009, 03:30 PM
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#27
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Aug 24 2009, 03:36 PM
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#28
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QUOTE(millenia3000 @ Aug 24 2009, 03:31 PM) dat wan kan tak jadi... but there's another nat geo one... hehe... must go back and nicely see... later i post... QUOTE(nickilala @ Aug 24 2009, 03:31 PM) millenia3000: eh, i got a few 'ok' shots of flying birds but then oh, the back of it is the net..UGLY hahaha...which one? nickilala: I made it look scary, but in fact it looked stupid in real life |
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Aug 24 2009, 03:47 PM
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#29
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huh? this ugly bird is also a stork? omg, it is a huge stork....ugly one..
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Aug 24 2009, 08:50 PM
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#30
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nickilala: I believe A200 can do it with SP90 too
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Aug 25 2009, 12:20 AM
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#31
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Aug 25 2009, 12:27 AM
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#32
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QUOTE(albnok @ Aug 25 2009, 12:21 AM) Killerz622: As I said earlier, you want a blue sky, you have to wait for one! A CPL can only boost a blue sky, but it cannot make a dull grey sky into a blue one. can try using a blue GND filter too...nickilala: That depends on the shot. For example, when you shoot a scene under a tree (shaded) it will look blue-ish. This is correct as the color IS actually slightly blue. However, if you want it to look like it was under sunlight, set the WB to Daylight and your leaves will appear a rich green color. Also, if you shoot under tungsten light, it will look orangey (which is the true color of the light, just that your brain 'removes' it) but you can set to Tungsten WB to remove the orange tone. speaking about WB, what is the best temp for dawn/dusk? Pics will turn out to be super blue... |
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Aug 25 2009, 11:35 AM
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#33
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QUOTE(Wonka @ Aug 25 2009, 11:10 AM) LOL I never really played with WB before. It's always AWB on my cam. Don't know how to use those. After 1 year of use. Damn noooooob. lucky that sony AWB is pretty accurate...btw do you shoot under tungsten lights? or u use flash?Added on August 25, 2009, 11:37 am QUOTE(Kul | Mo0 @ Aug 25 2009, 11:32 AM) wat ya waiting for?This post has been edited by Sp00kY: Aug 25 2009, 11:37 AM |
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Aug 25 2009, 11:54 AM
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#34
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QUOTE(achew @ Aug 25 2009, 11:48 AM) sigh....I prefer CF too....QUOTE(Ksano @ Aug 25 2009, 11:49 AM) fuaa.. seems like a700 with live view! erh...I wonder if they are using the same AF system from A700 or not....what ta bout price? hmm... jeles2... but no video rite? how to compare with d90 more like... 40d? or d80? QUOTE(achew @ Aug 25 2009, 11:51 AM) its always good to have..but how often we gonna use the vid function...if i had a choice..i rather they give me better IQ or cheaper rather than having vid function...i have friends using d90 and 5DII but i dont see them taking vid at all..lol..other than a few vid to tryout when they just bought the camera... agree, good to have but not a must to have..yeah, better IQ, and performance is more important to me ) |
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Aug 26 2009, 04:55 PM
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#35
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Aug 27 2009, 12:17 AM
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#36
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QUOTE(Killerz622 @ Aug 26 2009, 06:59 PM) QUOTE(Killerz622 @ Aug 26 2009, 08:25 PM) yeah i feel the picture is underexposed. it's hard to see the picture on the lcd cause i'm looking at it under bright sunĀ Pics are underexposed,trying using ur histrogram to check the exposure next time(under bright conditions)here's another one with whole bird » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « Your pic reminded me of this: ![]() QUOTE(Seng_Kiat @ Aug 26 2009, 11:07 PM) guys, dude, ur AWB seems more accurate than your custom WB. if u are shooting under florescent light, i dont get it ....why the WB turns out to be so cold...this is experiment i did just now with a700+1680cz under florescent light 1. built-in flash fired. AWB » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « 2. built-in flash fired. florescent WB » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « is that normal to get this kind of quality of WB from a700? I am using vivid creative style and the settings are same albnok one .. sorry, i cant check what is the setting because i am recharging my battery .. eh, sorry din see that u used pop-up flash, try changing ur white balance to "flash" rather than "florescent", also try changing it to 5500k... This post has been edited by Sp00kY: Aug 27 2009, 12:20 AM |
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Aug 27 2009, 10:50 AM
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#37
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QUOTE(clivengu @ Aug 27 2009, 10:47 AM) suddenly im curious with Tamron 17-50mm .. .... can any1 show me shots at F2.8 at 17mm? cause im pretty sure.. at 50mm... i'll probably stick with my 50mm prime... so the only reason i will get the tamron will be its performance at 18mm F2.8 ..see wat kind of bokeh can it get.. if u want f/2.8 for bokeh then i'd say go get it.if u want f/2.8 for low light performance as it focusing speed then i'd say go get it. if u want f/2.8 for low light performance so that you dont have to bump iso or use flash then i'd say dont get it, it will help but not much hence i would recommend a SAL16105 over tamron 1750 but why? its a sony lens which produced better colors, contrast, sharpness etc (i assume la, because i dont really fancy 1750 color and contrast) - PP can help but i`m lazy better range from 16-105....so far, i find that this is the best range that other makes did not make. the closest will be Canon 17-85 and Nikon 16-85.....for RM1.6k u can get a new 16-105 which I find it quite a good buy..... tamron is known for its front/back focusing issue, i had 1 for 2 weeks only and i sold it off. ,mine had front/back focusing problem too and the seller allowed me to change to a new one, but the seller told me that the problem will resurface after some tear and wear...i duno if its true la, but overall i had a bad exp with this lens.... This post has been edited by Sp00kY: Aug 27 2009, 10:55 AM |
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Aug 27 2009, 10:59 AM
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#38
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QUOTE(Braynumb @ Aug 27 2009, 10:50 AM) the bokeh would be nice tho... at f2.8... hmm... sounds like you've made your choice so far... hehehe... haha, i just edited my previous post with sony's adv.Added on August 27, 2009, 10:52 am well... that's true tho... what other advantages does the 16105 have other than the range? Added on August 27, 2009, 10:54 amP/s: know anyone selling 49mm Kenko uv filter? at least i have not heard of any flaws with that lens la, focusing problem, gear stripping or whatever... afterall, sony lens is made for sony right? less worries ........for that price, its a decent lens to get i havent try that lens yet but some said that it is as good as 1680 CZ. I tried 1680CZ and the contrast/colors are just awesome...(though can be done in PP but come on, do u wana PP all pics?) i would always minimize pp la, else what is the point buying a dslr? (minor ones are ok for me) If i were to own another APS-c sony, the only lens that i will get is 16105/1680 (price factor 49mm for your 50mm 1.7? no need to use filter else get a better one This post has been edited by Sp00kY: Aug 27 2009, 11:00 AM |
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Aug 27 2009, 11:08 AM
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#39
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millenia3000 : getting F42 ??? 2 flashes ar! wow..
anymore bird park pic to share? saw the parrot one, nice but try focusing at the eye instead |
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Aug 27 2009, 11:14 AM
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#40
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QUOTE(albnok @ Aug 27 2009, 11:08 AM) Also, remember that flourescent light flickers according to your house AC (Alternating Current, 50 Hz) so you'll want to use a slower shutter speed if you are shooting without flash. how slow is slow for florescent? anything below 50hz shud be good?Try shooting 10 frames at 5FPS F2.8 ISO1600 1/1000s while aiming at a flourescent tube (at night) - you'll see how it varies. Either you totally kill ambient light by shooting F8 1/30s ISO200, or you maximize ambient light at F2.8 1/30s ISO1600 (depending on how bright your flouros are lah.) However it is obvious due to the flicker, that is why studios do not use flourescent tubes! * Flourescent tubes come in different color temperatures. They are not always 4500K M6. Some are daylight-balanced flourescents (great!) and some are tungsten-balanced flourescents (2800K or 2800K M3). Some mamaks mix flourescent and tungsten light so I pick 2800K M6 for that. millenia3000: Nice bokeh on the handle! Added on August 27, 2009, 11:15 am QUOTE(millenia3000 @ Aug 27 2009, 11:14 AM) yea maybe misfocused edi la edvin... satu tangan pegang flash, satu tangan pegang body... lagi pakai 75-300 manyak susah mau kasi steady worr... thanks alb! time for a faster tele ar? This post has been edited by Sp00kY: Aug 27 2009, 11:15 AM |
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