Useful Links for LC Owners :

King Of Moped 135 (KOM135)
Yamaha T135
Malaysian Bikers Community (MBC)
Moped Riders Community (MRC)

LYN 135LC Club V1
LYN 135LC Club V2

Whose name is not in the list, kindly PM me your model or just post in the thread.



This post has been edited by Are_keem: Dec 21 2009, 08:54 PM

Our Proud Ride!!

1. Spayz's ride :

2. xtreme_paranoid's ride :

3. charge-n-go's ride :

4. Are_keem's ride :

5. scoffer's ride :

6. kinwei3250's ride :

7. LilCroSs's ride :

8. samba18's ride :

9. UncleCheang's ride :

10. budakmentah's ride :


This post has been edited by Are_keem: Sep 3 2009, 06:13 AM

Our Proud Ride V2!!

11. Na0ki's ride :

11. DontdoDRUG's ride :


This post has been edited by Are_keem: Nov 9 2009, 04:45 PM

Tips to Improve Engine Performance

Minor mod (increase acceleration)
1. Remove air filter. (Penang people can find me, FOC)
2. Reset carburetor air-fuel setting. (Penang people can find me, FOC)
3. Set valve tapette to 10 IN and 15 OUT. - RM30 labour charge @ New Bee Hock motor, Penang.
4. Change to 15-40 with 415 chain. - RM100

Major mod
coming soon...


Tips to Improve Handling Performance
coming soon...


Sprocket Combination (Stock CDI)

acceleration + = increase by xx%
acceleration - = decrease by xx%

15-35 - 1st : 48kph, 2nd : 90kph, 3rd : 130kph, 4th : 180kph; acceleration - 10.0%
15-36 - 1st : 46kph, 2nd : 86kph, 3rd : 125kph, 4th : 175kph; acceleration - 7.8%
15-37 - 1st : 44kph, 2nd : 83kph, 3rd : 122kph, 4th : 169kph; acceleration - 5.1%
15-38 - 1st : 43kph, 2nd : 80kph, 3rd : 118kph, 4th : 160kph; acceleration - 2.6%

15-39 - 1st : 42kph, 2nd : 78kph, 3rd : 115kph, 4th : 155kph; acceleration no change

15-40 - 1st : 41kph, 2nd : 75kph, 3rd : 111kph, 4th : 151kph; acceleration + 2.6%
15-41 - 1st : 40kph, 2nd : 73kph, 3rd : 108kph, 4th : 148kph; acceleration + 5.1%
15-42 - 1st : 39kph, 2nd : 71kph, 3rd : 105kph, 4th : 144kph; acceleration + 7.8%
15-43 - 1st : 38kph, 2nd : 69kph, 3rd : 102kph, 4th : 140kph; acceleration + 10.0%

After changing racing CDI >> top speed for 4th gear can add about 10 - 20kph.

*Note* The above data is an estimation of potential top speed for each gear, and may vary from bike to bike.


Carburetor General Tuning Guideline:

A. Change the idle air-fuel mixture setting 1st.
B. If still not satisfied, change the needle position.
C. If none of the needle position is good, change the jettings.


A. Idle air-fuel mixture settings
1. Air screw set at about 2.5 turns for stock airflow. Modified exhaust + air filterless can use 2 turns.
2. Idle rpm increase a little more than normal.

B. Needle setting
1. There are 3 ticks on the needle jet.
2. The lowest tick will give us good FC, as it limits more petrol to flow from mainjet @ half throttle
3. The highest tick will give us bad FC, as it let more petrol flows from mainjet @ half throttle.

However, highest tick does not mean best acceleration. If too much petrol flows into the venturi, the mixture will become too rich. This will decrease the power at high rpm. So, try different needle clip position and feel which one has the best results.

C. Jet size setting
1. Change mainjet to #107.5 (stock #105)
2. Change pilotjet to #22.5 (stock #20). If there is no performance increase, then stick back to #20.
3. Change mainjet to #110 + pilotjet #22.5. <-- this should be a good pair.

Anything more than #110 mainjet will make the engine feels heavy, bcoz the mixture becomes too rich.


Disc Brake Tuning Meteorology

The theory covers the relationship between the total areas of the brake pots (Note, its area not count), brake pads, masterpump, the rigidity of the brake hose and the property of the brake pads. The point of improvement is to look for the limit of the system and upgrade it.

1. Single pot is less prone to uneven brake force compared to multiple pots when in case one of the pot jams.

2. Changing the brake rotor is a start. But if you do not see improvements, that means rotor is not the limitation, and you need to change other things to do a stopee (Nose brake).

3. Change brake hose to steel braided, so it is less likely to expand and eat up the brake budget. Try this, wrap ur hands around standard brake hose, and press the brake you will feel it expand. Anymore you press also won't increase braking performance.

4. Change to DOT5 brake oil (normal 1 can, but easily overheat. I go hill run for >1 hr, DOT5 is mandatory)

5. Change brake pads, I use Ferodo imported by Racing Boy. Ask for original ones, one set front about RM30~40. You can see more copper strands on the pads. Other good pads use metal strands so u can see silverly metal strands.

6. Must stiffen front fork absorber, and add a stabilizer bar. Use 15W-20 fork oil, make it about 25% stiffer than stock. 20W-50 fork oil is too stiff bcoz the oil is too not lean enuf, the bound and rebound SUX, I feel like riding on a horse. The traction sux too, bcoz front tyre can hardly grip on the road when going through uneven road (esp penang road).

7. Use ABS device (about RM100) <-- optional

** many thanks to bro charge-n-go and bro alexei for the useful tips
stay tune for more tips

p/s : if anybody wanna share their modding tips too, you can PM me or just post in the thread, and I will update this post

This post has been edited by Are_keem: Nov 9 2009, 04:12 PM

long time no see bro
added liao

added oredi

normally they don't even perasan it's aftermarket one (and I hope they will never )
but incase they know, just be honest with them la. but at least try to make them lost,
just say that you had excident before and those are 'ayam brand' replacement muffler..

lol charge.. and then? got 'love letter' or not?

haha.. race between kaki leper aka lap vs kaki saman orang

sure.. welcome

ES what colour one?

lol, you remove the end cover along with the silencer inside?
hows the sound? last time my friend also did like this,
and the sound is foookinggg loud, same par as AHM one I think

the rim is Racing Boy type 811, maybe 2.15inch wide for rear, and 1.85inch front. that was like fitting rear rims on the front
i might be mistaken by the rear tyre size, looks like 110/70 or 100/80 one.
and nope, both of the tyre is from Maxxis racing one, although the pattern looks like Jambatan Batu Battlax C-Type

I think 20k for this bike is too much la,
because last time the SOL's promo bike was sold for RM6.5k only.
can take a look on the bike's pict here :

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?act=Atta...=post&id=918112

quite hard to get Battlax tyre especially kapcai's size (for 1.4/1.6/1.8 inch rims wide).
mostly can get 2nd hand one from Cubprix's team, usually those used tyre will be on sale.
but you need to find the right person to buy them

wah, don't you think 2.5inch for rear rim is quite heavy for standard ride?
because my foreman recommended 2.5inch for those heavily modded bike,
so that it will gain more stability on high speed.

forgive me if your ride was not in standard category

not sure bout that thou..
but for standard bike I think 2.15 for rear is more than enough liao

lol but mine even using SSS muffler, it never hit the road surface.
or maybe I'm lack with cornering skill

yeah, those wide rims are more suitable for modified bike.
stock bike will suffer if use them.

nope, sometimes it depends on your luck too.
a friend of mine whom ride ES version can easily hit 170km/h but mine (SS)

LC that had been converted to X1R owned by a teacher from Pekan, Pahang.
snap this picts at the autoshow today.





and the main attraction...



Pro Arm SP

I've talked to the owner, he said that the cost to modify this bike is more than RM10k already
but this bike was not used for daily commute, just for autoshow only so I didn't know how the handling was.

yeah, seldom see those Pirelli tyre on kapchai, often on SBK.

true, this converted LC gain 4th place yesterday, and no cash prize for 3rd runner up. the 1st place also I think got around 200-300 bucks only

btw samba, care to share your current project?

don't think so..

anyway, the swing arm itself costs around RM1.8k

I think I've seen this bike's picts some time ago. the owner's name is shah, known as shah medic in KOM135

the interesting part is the place where he put the rear plate number

lol. swing arm is a pair of metal bar which hold your rear rims, and also disc caliper (if got one laa).
refer to this pict :



the swing arm is the grey-ish metal bar on the left-hand side of the pict.
take note that it only has the left one, so that's why it's called single arm.

actually there's many types of swing arm available. here's among them :



not sure what type, IIANM X1R one.



GP Style swing arm

and the newest one I think those fitted on Racing Boy promo bike.

lol.. actually got advantage la beside syok sendiri.
you could know the sweet spot to change gear, so that it wouldn't be too early or over rev