ASAP: I am liking the pastel look!

Killabee88: Well placed. I like the placement of both lights. You might have to raise the backlight a bit to avoid that ear shadow, but otherwise, well done!

kming: JPG, unless you know how to use RAW. It is going to take a lot of time to process especially if you shoot a lot, and RAW takes longer to write to the card, so it will not help when shooting in 3 FPS burst drive mode.

SpOOkY: Wider lenses, internal focusing lenses, and lenses that can zoom but end at shorter focal lengths, are more likely to have very close MFDs.

For example:

30mm F2.8 DT Macro SAM = 14cm MFD
50mm F2.8 Macro = 20cm MFD
100mm F2.8 Macro = 35cm MFD
Carl Zeiss 135mm F1.8 = 72cm MFD (1:4 magnification, internal focus)
Sony 135mm F2.8/T4.5 Smooth Transition Focus = 87cm MFD (1:4 magnification, external focus)
Sony 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT = 95cm MFD
Sony 70-300mm F4.5-5.6G SSM = 110 cm MFD

Internal focus comes at the cost of lesser magnification at the same distance.

shootkk: I do agree that you can shoot a wedding on APS-C using only a 20mm and 50mm. Add points if it's the Sigma 20mm F1.8 with its crazy 20cm MFD! Unfortunately that lens isn't small like the Minolta/Sony 20mm F2.8 is.

Maybe I would be a bit conservative but I'd rather use a 28mm F2.8 for crowd shots (or Minolta 28mm F2.0 or Minolta 24mm F2.8 or Sigma 28mm F1.8 or Sigma 24mm F1.8.)

That, and 50mm, works great on FF too. Anybody know the famous Robert Capa saying?

kitman: In addition to that, I found that I only shot at 17-22mm and 35mm (on my 17-35mm on APS-C.) So maybe I was very used to the idea of primes.

Get a prime in a focal range you can get used to.

MemorableStudios: I like #1, #3, #5 and #6 for its luminescence. #7 would do better shot straight on.

Then, shoot only one 'cadar' (maybe in portrait mode so you get it from top to bottom.)

I was looking through the EXIF of the group pictures I took at wedding tables. They are all around 26-28mm on full-frame (using my Minolta 24-105mm F3.5-4.5). I plan it so that I take the group shots all one go so I don't have to worry about having the wrong lens on.

The few shots I have, at 24mm have a lot of space on the sides because I know people would get distorted at the side. So I might as well be using 28mm on FF or 20mm on APS-C.

APS-C has its benefits of deeper depth of field, useful for crowds so you can shoot at brighter apertures and retain more ambient light.

Weights:
Sony 20mm F2.8 - 285 grams
Sony 28mm F2.8 - 185 grams
Carl Zeiss 16-35mm F2.8 SSM - 860 grams
Carl Zeiss 24-70mm F2.8 SSM - 995 grams

Why would you need to 'tune' a flash? TTL and all is set.

MemorableStudios: The A900 has the better AF system, definitely; it has AF assist sensors besides the 9 points, and dual cross sensors in the middle, as well as a F2.8 sensor in the middle. It also has AF Microadjust in case your lenses do not focus accurately.

The A700 does not have AF assist sensors or AF Microadjust, but it does have dual cross sensors and a F2.8 sensor in the middle.

gizmo_pony: Definitely a flash.

Killabee88:

The Sony FA-HS1AM is an adapter with a safety circuit, so that old flashes with a trigger voltage of over 6 volts will not fry your Alpha. Cheap adapters like the Seagull SC-5 and Octopus DM-5 might not have such circuitry and are probably direct pass-throughs.

The FA-ST1AM is the same but for PC Sync - the A700 and A900 already have this so no need for this.

Seng_Kiat:

A700 = RM3200
CZ1680 = RM2500
70200G = RM5400
F58 = RM1140

Total = RM12340

If you're short of funds then change the Zeiss to the Tamron 17-50mm; it's a different lens than the Canon mount one as it doesn't have the Tamron micromotor. It is screw-driven and actually sounds much quieter than that micro-motor.

The A500 or A550, dunno which one, should come out to be the same price as the A700 now. I would guess that that is why the model number changed.

Supposedly, the A500/A550 should be around the price of the A700 now. Even if it is not, the A700 launched with a street price of RM4400 so it's not too far off even if the A500/A550 is a bit higher than RM3200.

If you have cash now and need to shoot now, just go for it - A700 + 17-50mm F2.8 + 70-200mm F2.8 + F58. If you can get the Zeiss, even better.

hazril: Wah, 100mm F2.0 - that's rare. My boss has one. It's quite weird on APS-C though.

Nobody knows. It might be an upgrade in some ways, and a downgrade in some ways.

hazril: I don't remember the bokeh of the Canon 100mm F2.0, but I remember the colors being dull when there is just plain flourescent light. When the monitor glows on someone's face though, it looks nice.

Yes the range feels a bit unnatural composition-wise, on APS-C. The 85mm should feel a lot more natural even on APS-C. Try both!

ianho: The 70-200mm F2.8G was that price since the Convention 2008. When the retail price was adjusted the street price followed suit.

Seng_Kiat: You can update it manually using a formatted CF card; instructions are with the patch.

likito: RAW converters apply different brightness and gamma settings compared to the JPGs.

hanafinoor: Try using the HVL-RLAM as a external flash instead of mounted on your lens (handheld lah). I tell you, wireless ring light is SEDAP GILER. It's like a softbox but very spherical. Try it for portraits raised up.

mcline_007: Do NOT touch your sensor if possible - use a blower first, and that will usually work. (Refer to Page 1 of this thread.)

And yes, you cannot use a LensPen on the sensor - different sensors have different coatings so you must really know what you are doing before you do it. You can't polish away sensor scratches!

Congratulations Seng_Kiat and welcome back! Hope you enjoy the colors!

http://www.schneideroptics.com/ecommerce/C...lay.aspx?CID=57

They say that MRC is scratch-resistant. I can attest to my B+W 007 CLEAR MRC being very easy to clean in a rush even with a shirt. It seems that the UV and clear filters all have MRC.

As long as you have properly exposed an image, noise will be less apparent.

So you can shoot at ISO800 outdoors; it is not a problem even on the A200.

ryzan76: Item #1 should be what you are looking for.

A700's PC Sync - PC Sync cable - transmitter unit
Receiver unit - PC Sync cable - studio light which has the most power

The most powerful studio light will trigger the other studio lights in optical slave mode.

Alternatively:

A700's PC Sync - PC Sync cable - studio light which has the most power

For finer noise reduction, roll down to the 1/2/3 Creative Settings slots at the bottom. They are Contrast Saturation Sharpness Brightness Zone - I set mine to Vivid 0, +1, +3, -2, -1. This provides something saturation while retaining a lot of shadow.

hanafinoor: Only the A700 and A900 have PC Sync ports. And yes, PC Sync is messy! The PC Sync port on my Octopus DM-6 (same as Seagull SC-6) is loose. So the contact wobbles and sometimes the flash fires; sometimes it doesn't.

hokc77: The Alpha Vest can fit 1.4 KG lenses - I carried the Tamron 200-400mm F5.6 in it!

marushin: Definitely can wan. But in the front 2 pockets lah. Your Tamron 200-400mm is fatter than the 70-200mm F2.8G anyway.

msiddiq: Nice cross-lighting! (Yes, I sense you love the F20.)

MemorableStudios: You should be able to pick up a similiar vest from Keat Camera, if they are at KLPF - that vest has no waterproof sleeves though, and doesn't have the velcro pocket flap. The Sony vest has 8 but this one has 4... but the side ones are small on the Sony one. I wish I took pictures for comparison!