QUOTE(llsphinxll @ Oct 22 2009, 11:34 AM)
hey i plan to give orbicule's undercover a try. was the purchasing complicated for you bro?
any positive/negative feedback?

Sorry for the late reply. I was sick the past few days.
It was easy. I used a credit card.
I got myself the student discount. Just send them proof of full time study for them to verify.
Installing is a breeze as well, download, install and enter your serial number. Just make sure you keep your ID in a safe place either physically or online with no clue of it's purpose. Coz this is what you need to report your stolen mac.
Occasionally check orbicule's website to see if there are updates for your undercover. They are good at keeping their software in tip top condition, releasing v3.2 for snow leopard, though the previous one still works.
I really think there is no reason not to get this for every mac. If you mac doesn't have this installed and it gets stolen, you virtually have no hope whatsoever of getting it back. But with this installed, at least, you still have some hope of retrieving it, and unleash your fury on the thief (if he didn't sell it).
Added on October 25, 2009, 1:38 pmQUOTE(davidmak @ Oct 25 2009, 02:25 AM)
Like the rest who have said it, a typical discharge & charge cycle can be accounted from the point it is fully charged at 100% and depleted at 0% (theoretical) and recharged at 100%. Thats what we call a typical full cycle. However, it is not always as clear cut. Consider this scenario where you have a fully charged battery at 100%. You use 20% of it (remaining 80%) and then decided to charge it to full again back to 100%. That is also considered as one cycle. So you kinda waste a potential of 80% of charge for that particular cycle. It is important to note that this is not the same as 'memory effect' of older battery technologies. 'Memory effect' prevents the full effective use of the potential charge in a battery.
Some battery manufacturers have mechanisms in place to make sure a battery cell is used in a 'balanced' way. Sony uses a battery care program to limit battery cells to only charge to 80% or lower. That is to prevent it from hitting 100% in case you didn't fully deplete the charges for that cycle. Now I do not know why not hitting 100% is important but I remember back in university days where a very good indicator of a fully charged Li-ion battery is when its temperature suddenly shoots exponentially. Most charging circuitry has these fail-safe mechanism to detect voltage and temperature of the cells. Maybe that has something to do with it.
So for regular and typical usage, if you have started using the battery keep using it until it is fully depleted. And when you charge it, keep charging it until full. And continue to keep it plugged in for as long as possible especially if you don't move from one place or another. If you're mobile, do your best to find a power point. If you have to use the battery, then remember to use it until it is fully depleted. Rinse repeat and you're good to go.
By the way, it is perfectly alright to keep the battery plugged all the time. It will not harm it because battery charge circuitry is smart enough to isolate the battery and power your laptop directly from main power. However, HEAT will reduce the longevity of a battery.
Sorry but I beg to differ in some aspects. A lithium-ion(cobalt)/lithium-polymer battery (used in laptops) doesn't "remember" how many charge cycles it has gone through. It is simply a figure the electronics count to keep track of the battery.
Li-ion's do not have any 'memory effect' (as you mentioned) unlike Ni-MH batteries (Nickel metal hydride) which do; and isn't actually old tech compared to Li-ion-cobalt; Just different types of battery chemistries for different purposes. NiMH's prefer to have a full charge and discharge cycle, but Li-ion's aren't too happy with that. Not doing a full discharge DOES NOT "waste" that charge cycle.
Having a full charge and discharge once in a while is fine (also recalibrates the electronics monitoring the battery) but avoid doing it on purpose ALL the time (unless that's really your usage cycle then by all means use what you invested for).
A battery charging circuitry doesn't use the temperature of the battery as a charging indicator, but rather as a shutdown and disconnect mechanism, coz if you overcharge or overdischarge a lithium-ion-cobalt, you may get what you call a "thermal-runaway" potentially with flames! Instead it uses voltage as an indicator, and it varies between different battery chemistries.
To quote a fellow flashaholic... (flashlight hobbyists in other words. we live on the edge of loose li-ion cells on our devices so we know the pros/cons and dangers of these little things)
he has summed it up pretty well:
QUOTE(polkiuj @ Sep 23 2009, 10:07 AM)
Lemme shed more light on Li-ion/Li-polymer batteries.
BTW I'm new in this thread.
Our macbook's use Li-polymer, which is basically the same as Li-ion but is not round therefore you can have more capacity per volume(if cells are cubic in nature). Li-ion's are basically round cells and therefore have less capacity per volume.
Li-ion's have 3 enemies. Heat, time and (strangely) capacity.
Hotter = die faster
Longer = die faster
The more charge it has = die faster (to a point only)
Storing @ 30ºC for 1 year, your battery will lose it's capacity faster than @10ºC for 1 year if both are at equal charge.
Storing @ 100% charge for 1 year, your battery will lose it's capacity faster than @50% charge for 1 year if both are at equal temperature.
And of course, storing for 1 year, your battery will lose it's capacity faster than storing for 6 months if both are at equal temperature.
Li-ion seems happiest @ 40% charge, low temperatures.
Also, li-ion seems to not like cycling 0%>100%>0%
Correct me if I'm wrong though.
This post has been edited by MetalZone: Oct 25 2009, 01:55 PM