Bro, can u pm me the price for doors only.saga flx.thanks
ICE *♣۩[WTS]Soundproof Materials For DIYers ۩♣*, Your D.I.Y soundproof solutions!
ICE *♣۩[WTS]Soundproof Materials For DIYers ۩♣*, Your D.I.Y soundproof solutions!
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Apr 19 2014, 02:04 AM
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Junior Member
12 posts Joined: Nov 2012 |
Bro, can u pm me the price for doors only.saga flx.thanks
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Apr 20 2014, 07:59 PM
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Senior Member
591 posts Joined: Jun 2009 From: ::Giant:: Bandar Puteri |
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Apr 22 2014, 01:55 PM
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Junior Member
12 posts Joined: Nov 2012 |
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Apr 22 2014, 05:32 PM
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Senior Member
591 posts Joined: Jun 2009 From: ::Giant:: Bandar Puteri |
QUOTE(azriruslan @ Apr 22 2014, 01:55 PM) My budget is around RM250 for 4 doors. Looking to make my speaker sound better as i cant really hear them clearly when driving on highway lor.. I only know 1 way of making it solid so you can hear better.It will work for 2 front doors, and RM250 definitely not enough. You'll need RM450.00 |
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Apr 22 2014, 06:18 PM
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Junior Member
50 posts Joined: Jan 2009 From: Petaling Jaya |
do u have satria neo boot area? Cover the spare type place? ???
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Apr 26 2014, 07:14 AM
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Senior Member
591 posts Joined: Jun 2009 From: ::Giant:: Bandar Puteri |
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May 1 2014, 05:37 PM
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Junior Member
50 posts Joined: Jan 2009 From: Petaling Jaya |
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May 1 2014, 06:07 PM
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Newbie
2 posts Joined: Oct 2009 |
Bro, for Mercedes Benz W211 what is best materials for:
1) 4 doors 2) Boot well Budget no restriction.......very important is result. PM please. Thx |
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Aug 4 2014, 06:05 PM
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Junior Member
277 posts Joined: Jul 2009 From: Kuala Lumpur |
TS still doing this business?
kinda interested but scared of removing the car components. Anyway, do reply if you're still doing this. thanks! |
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Aug 4 2014, 07:44 PM
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Senior Member
591 posts Joined: Jun 2009 From: ::Giant:: Bandar Puteri |
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Aug 4 2014, 10:51 PM
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Junior Member
277 posts Joined: Jul 2009 From: Kuala Lumpur |
QUOTE(MyWifeCar @ Aug 4 2014, 07:44 PM) scared parts (eg: door's inner stuffs) will suddenly break or things like that actually most scary part is because I don't know how to dismantle the stuffs, how to begin mainly. I've read through most of the pages and found so many positive replies. but none complain of unable to remove some parts or so. is it because you've briefed them on how to remove beforehand? |
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Aug 4 2014, 11:08 PM
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Senior Member
591 posts Joined: Jun 2009 From: ::Giant:: Bandar Puteri |
QUOTE(lemonish @ Aug 4 2014, 10:51 PM) scared parts (eg: door's inner stuffs) will suddenly break or things like that Yes, I share my experience with them. I make sure they understand how to do it, they find the courage themselves.actually most scary part is because I don't know how to dismantle the stuffs, how to begin mainly. I've read through most of the pages and found so many positive replies. but none complain of unable to remove some parts or so. is it because you've briefed them on how to remove beforehand? The only thing that will break is IF you don't know how. All these DIYs you just need some guidance, and you will be able to learn from there after that. |
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Sep 8 2014, 01:40 PM
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Junior Member
22 posts Joined: Feb 2009 |
bro please PM best best best price for whole car - Hyundai Elantra 2013 model.
Plus installation. where is your location. |
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Sep 8 2014, 01:41 PM
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Senior Member
591 posts Joined: Jun 2009 From: ::Giant:: Bandar Puteri |
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Nov 4 2014, 12:49 PM
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Senior Member
963 posts Joined: Sep 2005 |
bro
interested to soundproof my kembara a bit...maybe fenders...but on very tight budget.. can u recommend? and propose how to install? thx |
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Nov 4 2014, 08:56 PM
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Senior Member
591 posts Joined: Jun 2009 From: ::Giant:: Bandar Puteri |
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Nov 4 2014, 09:18 PM
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Senior Member
963 posts Joined: Sep 2005 |
cool...will check budget
thx |
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Nov 9 2014, 11:12 AM
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Junior Member
12 posts Joined: Apr 2005 |
Hi, i want to sound proof/insulate the noises mainly from the engine bay. my plan is sticking sound proofing material on the outer side of the firewall. since my car is old school car (EE100), the firewall is not deep inside the engine bay and is easily reachable by hand. at least the upper part is still reachable, the lower part may got more obstructions from hoses attachment on the firewall.
so what do you reckon i should get? seeing from your list: 1. For Firewall the Propad is bitumen pads? are those self adhesive? can the propad be further cut into the shape that i wanted? you know, to allow some cut out holes for those attachment on the firewall. or should i take the 3M Thinsulate for the firewall? or a combination of Propad 1st layer, Thinsulate 2nd later? does the Propad and Thinsulate retains/traps water? 2. For Engine Hood i intend to cut the sound proof material into the diamond shape thingy and stick'em on those flat diamond shaped surface. you think i can use propad too? 3. For Heat insulation of Aircond ducts/hoses i intend to wrap insulation on the cold lines of the aircond ducts that i can see in my car. this is the job for 3M Thinsulate? Bro KrisMas and Quazacolt suggested you when i asked these questions in the Detailing thread, so errmm.. here i am. Appreciate your valueable opinion/suggestion, and, eventually, your best price lols. my budget is.. around RM 200-300 ish?? for the firewall (outside) and engine hood. Labour budget is.. well, my own DIY and sweat. |
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Nov 9 2014, 11:30 AM
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Senior Member
591 posts Joined: Jun 2009 From: ::Giant:: Bandar Puteri |
QUOTE(efaceninja @ Nov 9 2014, 11:12 AM) Hi, i want to sound proof/insulate the noises mainly from the engine bay. my plan is sticking sound proofing material on the outer side of the firewall. since my car is old school car (EE100), the firewall is not deep inside the engine bay and is easily reachable by hand. at least the upper part is still reachable, the lower part may got more obstructions from hoses attachment on the firewall. Before I start, Propad is only for flat surface, cut it into anymore than half might lost its effectiveness.so what do you reckon i should get? seeing from your list: 1. For Firewall the Propad is bitumen pads? are those self adhesive? can the propad be further cut into the shape that i wanted? you know, to allow some cut out holes for those attachment on the firewall. or should i take the 3M Thinsulate for the firewall? or a combination of Propad 1st layer, Thinsulate 2nd later? does the Propad and Thinsulate retains/traps water? 2. For Engine Hood i intend to cut the sound proof material into the diamond shape thingy and stick'em on those flat diamond shaped surface. you think i can use propad too? 3. For Heat insulation of Aircond ducts/hoses i intend to wrap insulation on the cold lines of the aircond ducts that i can see in my car. this is the job for 3M Thinsulate? Bro KrisMas and Quazacolt suggested you when i asked these questions in the Detailing thread, so errmm.. here i am. Appreciate your valueable opinion/suggestion, and, eventually, your best price lols. my budget is.. around RM 200-300 ish?? for the firewall (outside) and engine hood. Labour budget is.. well, my own DIY and sweat. 1. If you ask me, there is no dampening materials that can withstand the extreme heat in engine bay, so far in the market. I would suggest you to work on the firewall from inside the cabin. Since yours is an older car(I like old cars), it will be much easier to work on. What I would suggest is dampening materials(STP Gold etc) and add on with sound insulation materials (3M Thinsulate). 2. You can use STP Gold etc materials and cut it. Then top it with sound insulator. The brand SilentCoat has a very good insulator, but if you want to use insulflex in this instance, can also. Use the 10mm Insulflex for the hood, but do understand that it is not easy to apply, my experience. Also, applying materials in engine bay rule of thumb, make sure it is fire retardant. 3. This is the job for Insulflex. Aircond shop sell those in roll type, use those and tighten it with cable tie. They actually come with different size, you just need to dig deeper. 4. Readjust your budget and do it step by step. Soundproofing job, once you do it, you WILL NOT want to do it again. My suggestion is to start with firewall from inside the cabin, meaning cover the kaki area as high as possible. Cheers. |
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Nov 9 2014, 11:10 PM
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Junior Member
12 posts Joined: Apr 2005 |
QUOTE(MyWifeCar @ Nov 9 2014, 11:30 AM) Before I start, Propad is only for flat surface, cut it into anymore than half might lost its effectiveness. 1. If you ask me, there is no dampening materials that can withstand the extreme heat in engine bay, so far in the market. I would suggest you to work on the firewall from inside the cabin. Since yours is an older car(I like old cars), it will be much easier to work on. What I would suggest is dampening materials(STP Gold etc) and add on with sound insulation materials (3M Thinsulate). 2. You can use STP Gold etc materials and cut it. Then top it with sound insulator. The brand SilentCoat has a very good insulator, but if you want to use insulflex in this instance, can also. Use the 10mm Insulflex for the hood, but do understand that it is not easy to apply, my experience. Also, applying materials in engine bay rule of thumb, make sure it is fire retardant. 3. This is the job for Insulflex. Aircond shop sell those in roll type, use those and tighten it with cable tie. They actually come with different size, you just need to dig deeper. 4. Readjust your budget and do it step by step. Soundproofing job, once you do it, you WILL NOT want to do it again. My suggestion is to start with firewall from inside the cabin, meaning cover the kaki area as high as possible. Cheers. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « 1. look at the myvi's engine bay, at the firewall. i believe all lagi best comes with that insulation, i've personally touch on the material, hard and spongy. this is EXACTLY the thing i hope to achieve in my car. The other car i know got this type of insulation layer at firewall is Hyundai/Inokom Matrix. 2. STP Gold is not sound insulator?? forgive me cause i've no clue what's the different class. and btw cutting STP Gold sounds so expensive... just googled SilentCoat, looks kind of good. do you sell this? does the SilentCoat material can withstand engine bay heat? no turbo no nothing, just stock. from the visual look, the Silentcoat isolator looks kinda similar to Insulflex. 3. ok understand this. while i was typing this post, and also at the same time googling, got more info already. basically i see a lot of ppl says apply 1st layer vibration damping material (meaning high mass material) (like STP gold and SilentCoat Vibro Damping??), then 2nd layer sound damping material (dense foam/spongy material) (like Insulflex and Silentcoat Isolator??), for best result. so... your ProPad is normally used as the 1st layer? and then i top-up myself with another layer of insulflex? since insulflex is originally designed for heat insulation, it can protect the Propad also i think. OR, insulflex 1 layer on the outer side firewall, then high mass material on the inner side. or is my understanding actually wrong already? lols my mind can't stop thinking. This post has been edited by efaceninja: Nov 9 2014, 11:10 PM |
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