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anfieldude
post May 11 2009, 09:41 AM

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QUOTE(SiriuslyCold @ May 11 2009, 09:02 AM)
Assuming the HN salespeople have set up ALL the displays properly calibrated this could work. Do you see this happening?

What do you think these big store employees do ... 

A. push up the brightness and contrast
B. leave at factory setting
C. use a video calibration disc to set up each display
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I have not seen any big store that has the correct environment and the display set up correctly ever. Most of them run the displays in vivid or torch mode with the contrast jacked way up and the brightness totally off.
anfieldude
post May 11 2009, 05:17 PM

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QUOTE(michaeltan1943 @ May 11 2009, 03:09 PM)
actually 720p and 1080p not much real difference. Most people cannot see any difference even nearby. All the more if you are at 7 feet away.

Infact if you go to Bangsar TBM at Village one, they put a full HD and HD ready Pana side by side. In all honestly, they look exactly the same.
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You could probably see the difference easier in a static image. On moving pictures, it is difficult to see the difference between 720p and 1080p. Also easier to see the difference in animation movies. If u r almost 8feet back, it is difficult unless viewing on a screen that is 50in or more. Then the differences become clearer. On anything smaller than a 42in it is difficult to see, it is there but difficult to see.
anfieldude
post May 12 2009, 08:26 AM

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All display technologies have issues. All... There is currently no perfect display technology. Decide what you prefer be it plasma or LCD, be happy with your purchase and move on in life. Its easier that way. Make sure that you can live with the faults of your display in your viewing environment. If you believe that LCD is the superior technology for all the right reasons that is limited to your viewing environment, get one and be happy. Else get a plasma or a projector. Most importantly, be happy with your display.
anfieldude
post May 12 2009, 02:25 PM

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QUOTE(htkaki @ May 12 2009, 01:58 PM)
Yes, the older model has less reflective screen. I am quite surprised by that
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Actually, I believe this might be related to their improved contrast ratio as well. Let's see if the same is not seen on the higher end models.
anfieldude
post May 14 2009, 08:19 AM

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QUOTE(superyaw @ May 14 2009, 07:05 AM)
How is LG PQ30 Plasma compare to Pana X10 in term of PQ, Colour and Motion?  Both prices is about the same and come with 3 yrs warranty.  I think that Pana X10 motion is not that smooth.
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If to your eyes the motion of the Panny X10 is not smooth, then go audition the LG Plasma and make your decision. Some people are more susceptible to motion judder than other. Since you see the PannyX10 as not smooth, make sure you try the same source when u audition the LG plasma, if it looks better then get that.

BTW, on what source did u see the motion not that smooth when viewing the Panny X10?
anfieldude
post May 14 2009, 01:27 PM

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QUOTE(phat_newbie @ May 14 2009, 11:06 AM)
I also noticed that too. It's like mild flickering when the retailers were playing the demos. I'll bring my WDTV to test the unit to determine this.
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Then it's something to do with refresh rates and incorrectly set flags. Check it out. The cuplrit might be the settings in the WDTV that are not matching the display


Added on May 14, 2009, 1:32 pm
QUOTE(GrandElf @ May 14 2009, 12:38 PM)
any1 here know wats the definition of 'white saturation'??try searching in google but end up nothing near to it.....

icon_question.gif  icon_question.gif  icon_question.gif
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White saturation is typically the coordinates of the white point in the CIE diagram. The D65 white point that most if not all films are mastered in are 0.3127,0.329 (x,y). This defines the white point in a given colour space. The white point is similar for NTSC, HD and PAL colour space. This is also normally related to greyscale as well. There is another dimension to this CIE chart called Luminance. So all in all it is x,y,Y. x,y defines the white point, Y defines the luminance. Let me know if u need more explanation. To get this reading, you would need a colorimeter or a spectrophotometer.

This post has been edited by anfieldude: May 14 2009, 01:32 PM
anfieldude
post May 21 2009, 05:36 PM

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QUOTE(phat_newbie @ May 21 2009, 04:09 PM)
Oh well, time to let go of the old and welcome the new. Haha... My wife loves the X10 exterior looks though. She said the PV80's design is so dull. Haven't had the chance to fully test the X10 yet. Gonna do it tonight.
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Actually the new X10 has fantastic grayscale after calibration, much better than the older PV80. Colour decoding errors are also lower.
anfieldude
post May 23 2009, 03:23 PM

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QUOTE(termite9 @ May 23 2009, 12:29 PM)
bro, how to calibrate?
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You need a test disc and a minimum of a colorimeter or better still a spectrophotometer.

Else if not, at least get a DVE HD test disc for Blu Ray and get the brightness and contrast correct.
anfieldude
post May 26 2009, 08:41 AM

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QUOTE(superyaw @ May 26 2009, 07:04 AM)
X10 is also using the 12G new panel right but i understand that S10 Is using the new Neo PDP panel. 

Power consumption,
42S10 is 350W while normal use and normal use for 42X10 is 285W. 

Sub-field drive
42s10 is 550 Hz and and 42X10 is 600 Hz

I got this figure from Panasonic website.  Is that mean 42X10 will have better motion?
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For Plasma, this sub field drive is a marketing gimmick...to counter the 100Hz, 120Hz, 240Hz stuff that LCD makers tout about.

No way you will see a difference...
anfieldude
post May 29 2009, 10:22 AM

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Looks like Sharp has also entered the LED backlighting market. See review below.

Trusted Reviews Sharp LED Backlighting Review

Looks to have fixed a lot of the known problems with better colours. They did not talk about viewing angle.

So LCD has played its Ace, let's see if plasma can counter with 5/10 lumens tech.

anfieldude
post Jun 3 2009, 08:46 AM

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QUOTE(Barricade @ Jun 2 2009, 11:46 PM)
What is your logic behind this? "higher setting would cause more diff in dark n bright scene"

The one reason to break in is to age the phosphors evenly. And to age phosphors, you need to turn the contrast and brightness to MAX. That way phosphors will mature. That way only break in can be done in 100 hours. If you turn those settings down, it will take 200-300 hours to break in.
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Correct but only if u use the break in dvd. This is because this is a full screen colour alternating display and has no risk of causing burn in due to static TV channels and black borders. Do not use these high brigthness and contrast settings for TV channels and DVD (2:35 and 1:33 ratio) during the early life of your plasma.
anfieldude
post Jun 3 2009, 01:14 PM

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QUOTE(kaneshi @ Jun 3 2009, 01:09 PM)
Is TH-P42S10K newer than TH-P42X10K? if were to choose 1 for viewing astro, which 1 is better?

i was actually waiting for plasma 50" full hd, but it seems still no sign of it yet in MY. sad.gif
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50" will come...

anfieldude
post Jun 3 2009, 09:23 PM

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QUOTE(ar188 @ Jun 3 2009, 07:51 PM)
got the S10 liao.. very easy to unpack 4 white clips and 80% of the box comes out leaving the base for you to remove the TV.. cool..

dem freaking cheap for a 1080p panel..
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ar188, you're finally back....
anfieldude
post Jun 9 2009, 05:09 PM

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QUOTE(qsil @ Jun 9 2009, 11:43 AM)
guys....finally i got the ANSWER biggrin.gif

well for sometime, I have been following this topic of LCD , plasma, which is better, what brand, specs etc etc....

as the day of moving draws nearer, I have decided to go for SHARP AQUOS A85m however since the shop is a recommended contact by some fren, I was told instead to get the A77M; which I did, irregardless of the numerous times I have been told, your astro will look shitty, your soccer match will be blurred, f1 is going to be fizzling..things like that.

Well truth to be told, I just went for it since the deal for a 46 inch a77m in the market was around 7.1k however I got it for 6.3k (shop is a fren's contact) tongue.gif

Well initially watching astro is slightly terrible......after settlig down in my new house. I finally got sometime to fiddle around with the settings.

N by depressing the SHARPNESS..........voila ......its just as good as watching astro on my old CRT 29 inchi tongue.gif

n football , f1 are no prob as well......dun need monster cables or watsover just a direct selection of -8 out of the range from -10 -> +10

so all in all.....i would say ..SHARP has indeed lived up to its name....n thanks to SHARP...otherwise I might have parted with 18k for the pioneer KURO....which is good for initial viewing but after a while u will notice the lag of motion ( although its supposed to be on mucher higher bit ie. 32 if not mistaken as compared to a77m is having only 10 bit)

n of coz...since its a plasma...well the black is purely black smile.gif but again...very very reflective since its a glass panel tongue.gif

anyways....no hard feelings towards the KURO supporters...end of the day...I am just a willing buyer for SHARP AQUOS, and more importantly to spend with the dime's worth , that's all !!! peace n out biggrin.gif
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Looks like we will beat this to death..

Hey, the most important thing is its ur money. Whatever u pay for u must like, not anyone else.

Good for u, u saved a ton of money and most importantly u are extremely happy with ur purchase.

All this black, 10 bit and all is really not as important as ur satisfaction.
anfieldude
post Jun 11 2009, 10:00 PM

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QUOTE(yfyap69 @ Jun 11 2009, 08:59 AM)
I had tried with X10 and PS3. Result not good compare to LCD. Not sure about S10 though. For console or PC, I think LCD will be better due to the color is more vibrant.
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Is this for games or Blu Ray movies?
anfieldude
post Jun 13 2009, 10:17 AM

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QUOTE(lightning69 @ Jun 13 2009, 10:00 AM)
Why care if the panel is NeoPDP or not.  As long as the picture quality is great then i won't care at all.  After all, I read some reviews mention that the NeoPDP only provides a little savings in power usage only.
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Actually Neo-PDP is also supposed to give higher luminance values, ie brighter whites. One of the drawbacks of plasma tech is that to display a full screen white screen would be limited due to what is known as the Automatic Peak Limiter. This limiter is there to ensure that the power supply is not driven past its limits. Thus the general tendencies of the man in the street to compare LCD which can have a higher peak white limit making it brighter. The problem is for movie viewing this is not important as the correct "windowed" white peak limit for correct viewing is anywhere between 30-40 ft/L in a dimly lit room (light source behind the panel or 10% of the brightest white). Almost all plasmas are more than capable of accurate grayscale at this range. The correct practices of viewing are not cared by most and they make decisions on what they see in the showroom floor where the lights are full blast.

The quest for plasma was always to get to 5lumens and 10lumens tech that will allow it to show brighter images to counter the "super bright but normally inaccurate" whites that the LCDs put out.

5lumens and 10lumens tech is important for plasma, it evens the playing field in both the areas that are used by the LCD group to downplay plasma, namely, brighter images and lower power consumption. It also will allow for thinner panels. I believe the Z series that Panasonic has out this year might actually be using something close to that.

NeoPDPs are a step in that direction. It is not quite 5 lumens tech (I believe somewhere in the 2-3lumens). Pioneer actually demoed 5/10lumens tech last year in CES and called it extreme contrast (brighter whites, super blacks and very thin panels) but unfortunately, have pulled out. This technology would also make plasma panel manufacturing cheaper with better yield eventually.

Hopefully, Panasonic brings it to use in the next 2 years and we can see if it helps plasma.

This post has been edited by anfieldude: Jun 13 2009, 10:18 AM
anfieldude
post Aug 1 2009, 08:09 AM

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QUOTE(azbro @ Jul 31 2009, 11:15 PM)
Sorry bro anfieldude..

My color measurement equipment just could do XYZ and the trial software also didn't include XYZ color.
Googled regarding excel table for converting Lab/Lch (which is supported by the color measurement) also never found....

Anyway...I'll try again next week after I get the settings right.

Well, even thought it failed, I know more abt adjusting the LCD/Plasma color especially the greyscale.
Will try again...

[attachmentid=1111660]

Thank you so much for assisting me to calibrate my plasma.
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Great effort. I will try get the excel table I made and pass it to you. Its easier to use a software like Calman and its more fun doing it yourself...
anfieldude
post Aug 1 2009, 01:42 PM

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QUOTE(pierreye @ Aug 1 2009, 09:59 AM)
You can try out HCFR which is free.
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The problem is the drivers to run it from HCFR...
anfieldude
post Aug 15 2009, 02:23 PM

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QUOTE(Lone*Wolf @ Aug 14 2009, 10:25 PM)
Will people still be interested in Pioneer now that its Made in Panasonic?
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I've explained this before. No Pioneer panels are made by Panasonic. There was an initial agreement for Panasonic to supply Pioneer with panels in 2009 but that agreement is null and void since Pioneer decided to exit the market. So all Pioneer panels were made in Pioneer PDP plant in Japan. That plant is now closed. The last batch of panels were the KRP500 and KRP600 panels.

ar188,
The risk with importing the panels is that you need an AP to bring in plasma panels. So that is added cost and the tax not to mention more importantly warranty. The 60in KRP panels after conversion cost only ~RM10k in the states and abt RM22k from the UK. In the end with transportation and warranty, the cost becomes the same as getting it in Malaysia. Another problem would be the power supply.
anfieldude
post Aug 17 2009, 12:05 AM

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QUOTE(andrekua @ Aug 16 2009, 11:25 PM)
BTW,

Anyone know how to enter Panasonic LCD TV service menu? I tried the Vol- + 3x recall and got into the configuration menu. However, it only allows me to save the Brightness, Contrast, Backlight and position setting. Whenever I alter the RGB, it wont save and revert back to original setting. How aa?
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I believe after you change a particular R,G,B value, you need to save the setting before moving to the next value to change. I believe you shd press a button for save. It will actually say in the svc menu. Else after changing R Brightness say, you move to B Brightness, the values do not change.

Out of curiosity, are you changing the values for RGB based on a meter reading or by eyeball? RGB values shd be changed based on a colorimeter/spectrophotoradiometer reading and not arbitrarily

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