eujinee, it will be even better with grounding points at least from alternator to the batt negative terminal. other points are engine bulk head, distributor, and firewall.

VS + grounding is the best combo esp for auto vehicles.i experienced it with my wira 1.5A last time. recommended combo. even without ICE products also is good to have these in place.

the mythelogy LCP is a good product and proven with figures. drexchan from EA automotive has been selling it with all the stats and dyno runs. i would say it will be very beneficial product for both AT and MT drivers.

note that LCP does not increase HP of vehicles. it does however allows the vehicle to rev easier. thus it helps with your vehicle accelaration. your rpm will rise faster and so you will achieve top speed easier. do note again that it does not increase your vehicle top speed.

dampened LCP is better for long run as the rubber will help dampen (sort of like silent off) the ting vibrations when the engine is running. our OEM crank pulley also has rubber in them. unless your engine has gone through balacing, i won't recommend you to buy undampened LCP. best to stick to dampened LCP. normally LCP is undersized a little so the CP belt might need to be changed.

sphiroth, do you need to change your engine belt when you changed the LCP? I think CPS only got 1 belt only right? can it be adjusted?

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Added on May 20, 2009, 8:18 pmi guess any VS is ok so long as the caps are working. hehe... give for free... i also wan.. teehee...

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Added on May 20, 2009, 8:22 pmtalking about UR bars, i think we will feel better cornering with the front 3 point bars for waja. i dunno if the gen2 has got 4 points or not...

last time, my wira installed 16mm rear ARB (anti roll bar) which is non standard as i dun have the 'clip' on the 'dog bone' to attach the satay bushes. end up drill hole.. haha.. anyway, the experience is nice with the corners but then you have 'waves' on road or uneven roads... ur car will likely be like a bit sampan (rocking up and down) kinda feeling... so my conclusion is tat too thick ARB is not soo good.. I do stand corrected if you have a differing opinion.

This post has been edited by jctasoga: May 20 2009, 08:22 PM

i was just trying to poison you.. hehehe..

i'm happy to say that the shell fully synthetic 5-40w increased travelling KMs per tank (better FC). i've just done my 5k service abt 2 weeks back.

normally my 1 full tank of waja petrol can only reach 480kms. now i've reached 480kms but still got last 1/4 tank to go. i don't travel a lot just abt 40-50kms per day. jam a bit in the morning traffic.

my early conclusion is that the 5-40w is definitely better in helping the FC of my waja cps. previously my 1k service using syntium 800 (should be 10-40w) if not mistaken.

i will continue to monitor the FC for a few more tank before updating here.

edited: just pump fuel just now. 507kms.. +27kms difference.. not bad.

This post has been edited by jctasoga: May 22 2009, 11:11 PM

lighter viscocity oil sure will give better mileage. hehe... so just be happy where you are... i'm going to try 5-30w in the next oil change. 30w-40w should be ok in new engines and city driving will be good coz mainly stop n go traffic. if you are driving outstation more n those always red line ones.. better get the thicker ones ie 5-40w or 5-50w. i guess its more protection tat way...

anyway, later going to wash n wax my car.. exercise first!

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Added on May 23, 2009, 2:37 pmya i'm curious also... how they know radiator problem? leaking coolant? or they drive until engine shutdown? better check carefully when you receive the car mate... check the 'red' linings or coloured dots around the engine bays. if anything was touched or not virgin anymore, you can straight away see it. especially when they have disassembled it before...

This post has been edited by jctasoga: May 23 2009, 02:37 PM

erhm.. how to put it... see the nuts on top of your front suspensions.. it should have these red markers or red colour pigments. once any tools opens it, it will be scrapped off. that means the suspension has been unbolted before. its quite evident around the engine mountings as well. just now go n look my engine also got a few other markings around like the cam covers (its the steel portion. not the red cps cover coz you're meant to remove it during spark plug changes).

hope it helps explaining. i will really try my best to post pics once i have my photobucket links up.

trouble depends how u look at it.... the point is, how severe the problems are and also if you are able to find help to solve the problem. if got problem but no help then god bless u...

rev to the CPS zone. at 3.7k rpm, you will heard a 'click' sound. a few seconds after that, you will feel the rush of the engine in high cams.

nice job ezwann, just for your info, that area is very vulnerable to some very minor water drip during raining. i would further recommend closing off the big holes in the door with cloth tapes or masking tape so that water doesn't drip inside and damage your 'cloth foam'. the plastic sheet layer that comes with the car will start to give way in a few years time..

i would recommend using superlon as its water inert (not so water absorbent). superlon is also good insulation + noise damper as well.

next step is to add bitumen strips to your door shell. you will feel different man...

happy DIY-ing.

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Added on May 29, 2009, 1:05 pmeujinee bro... ezwann adding cloth-like foam to do soundproofing la.. speakers looks stock to me. yeah croc shoes with merc branding.. wonder they got cps branding or not...

This post has been edited by jctasoga: May 29 2009, 01:05 PM

oic... never know gen2 cps got this as stock.. our waja dun have le... why proton so unfair wan...

i measured the waja cps weight. its approx 1250kgs. that should make approx 100bhp/ton. to be even more conservative, lets say about 90bhp/ton. is it correct way to calculate it?

but mine is a bit heavier with full tank of fuel + subwoofer 12" enclosure + some 5-10kg sound proofing to the door n arches.

hehe..

heavier car contributes to more stability when high speed. its a matter of time for waja cps to reach that top speed only. we might loose out during sprints... but we definitely can catch up to them.. nyek nyek nyek (devil smile)

oh.. neo cps member.. welcome welcome...

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Added on May 31, 2009, 9:12 amya. the company tat i worked at got a bridge weighing scale for containers. i just kinda borrowed it.. haha..

the jerking is when we release clutch too fast at high rev. its normal i guess because its the time lag between gear changes. i would imagine the short shifter or the DSG technology in VW will come in handy to minimize the jerks... another thing to take note also if your car is still new for MT cars, tat means you haven changed gearbox oil yet. so that might also explain the slower/harder gear shifting. if urs is an AT car, then i'm not too sure already.

btw, has anyone opened up the rocker cam cover (i mean the red CPS plastic piece). mine is screwed so damn tight!! and the bolts are super small size also!!

This post has been edited by jctasoga: May 31 2009, 09:12 AM

haha.. i tried my best.. i'll leave it till the service time la.. they should know how to pop it open..

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Added on May 31, 2009, 8:26 pmmyself 1st gear abt 5k rpm then upshift. 2nd and 3rd gear will full rev till 6k if required otherwise abt 5.5k rpm normally end of road liao.. haha.. short sprints only..

This post has been edited by jctasoga: May 31 2009, 08:26 PM

18" ?!

ah.. i see... i just got the notion that its more stable with a heavier car.. probably its also more stable at lower speed. i don't go beyond 160kmh so limited experience in those areas. i stand corrected. thanks.

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Added on June 1, 2009, 11:04 pmah.. i see i see...

This post has been edited by jctasoga: Jun 1 2009, 11:06 PM