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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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JeffxMatt
post Aug 19 2011, 09:17 PM

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I cant remember where I actually read it but it was either this thread or the suiting thread that I read about a tailor in KL having a Sifu from Seremban (most probably Kotmj's MBT). So I was there in Seremban and I tried going to a few tailors asking about stuff and one of the tailors mentioned that theres only two sifu in Seremban but he wouldnt mention the name of the sifu and all he did was snigger in a weird way... then the conversation turned into ALT and his snigger went even wider and he said "hes that very old man right?" and he laughed. weird.

anyhow, its hard to believe that these tailors are from the same sifu since none but one ever heard of a fully canvassed suit nor much about other stuff. btw, how do you tell someone in Mandarin that you want a fully canvassed suit and ask how much itll cost you?

btw Kotmj, do you happen to be able to tell me how to determine whether a suit was glued together or not when its already completed? thanks.
JeffxMatt
post Aug 20 2011, 12:25 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 20 2011, 12:00 AM)
if you have a pair of scissors you can find out real quick

otherwise you have to do the pinch test on the chest and look at the underside of the lapels

he sniggered because he knows you are clueless ... if you know as much as me he will invite you for a beer
*
care to explain more on the pinch test?

true, i am clueless and not as knowledgeable as you are but everyone has to start at some point, dont they? laugh.gif
plus im not a fan of beers.

anyhow id love to see how it would go with you using my own pair of eyes. maybe he'll tell you stuff about the sifu and you might get a hand closer to your next MBT(insert number here)... tongue.gif

oh and can you tell me the right word/phrase in Mandarin to ask for a fully canvassed suit.

This post has been edited by JeffxMatt: Aug 20 2011, 12:28 AM
JeffxMatt
post Aug 20 2011, 09:02 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 20 2011, 07:01 PM)
I do not speak Mandarin. I have trouble enough speaking Cantonese.

But first a fundamental question: Can you tell me how a fully canvassed jacket differs from one which is not?

I am 99.5% sure that there is nobody making jackets the old way outside of KL and Penang.
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so far as my limited knowledge goes, a fully canvassed is that there is a canvass between the fabric and the lining of the suit whereby the canvass is not glued to the fabric using high temperature method but are hand stitched (but some tailor uses machine to stitch the canvass and can be seen by the way the stitches are however some large or at least rich tailors have this machine which tries to duplicate the looks of a hand stitched, jump stitching machine or blind stitching machine, i think).
a fully canvassed suit is given structure by the canvass.
a fused suit is given structure by fusing or gluing the 'structure' to the fabric.
Since there is a gap between the canvas and the fabric for a fully canvassed suit, it allows the suit to breathe more than a fused suit.
For a fused suit, if the fused structure somehow detaches itself or un-glues itself from the fabric (most likely due to mistakes during dry cleaning), itll harm the drape of the suit causing, uhh, 'bubbles' to appear and this is irreparable (i dunno how to phrase this part out, sorry but i hope you get what i mean).
A fully canvassed suit will not face this problem and its lifetime is said to last longer than a fused.


well, this is all that i know of the difference between a fused and a fully canvassed. So, did i pass the test? or am I gonna get branded as an idiot?

really? quite a shame... though, what about the 0.5%?

This post has been edited by JeffxMatt: Aug 20 2011, 09:04 PM
JeffxMatt
post Aug 21 2011, 05:05 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 21 2011, 12:15 AM)
OK, so you know the difference. And the pinch test simply means you try to feel between your fingers if the cloth is thicker than it should be, i.e. has a synthetic fusing backing it. You pinch the front between your fingers and rub a bit to feel the thickness, then do the same to an area that is never fused, e.g. the sleeves or the back panels. If the garment fabric at the front feels thicker or more substantial than the sleeves, then the front is fused.

One has to be careful to pinch just one layer of fabric, since some canvasses are intentionally made to have a prickly surface to help it cling to the garment fabric, making it feel as one.
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*gives a huge sigh of relief* i pass lol tongue.gif

anyhow, thats more simple than i thought... and silly of me for not thinking that in the first place sweat.gif

thanks for telling me about the pinch test! ill try that later on. smile.gif


Added on August 22, 2011, 7:20 amBtw Kotmj, if it's not too much to ask, can you please do me a favor by posting close up pictures of your trouser's hem (from inside and outside and how they're stitched)? thanksss smile.gif

btw, are yours removable?

This post has been edited by JeffxMatt: Aug 22 2011, 07:57 AM
JeffxMatt
post Aug 27 2011, 03:22 PM

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Irmond, i think what MeToo is trying to say to you is that the price (rm350) is just for the workmanship fee.

so rm350 is only for the suit jacket and rm500 is for the suit jacket plus trousers? you better clarify with the tailor whether the price includes the fabric and workmanship or its only for the workmanship.
JeffxMatt
post Aug 27 2011, 04:44 PM

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good for you then. smile.gif
JeffxMatt
post Aug 29 2011, 05:20 PM

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QUOTE
Btw Kotmj, if it's not too much to ask, can you please do me a favor by posting close up pictures of your trouser's hem (from inside and outside and how they're stitched)? thanksss btw, are yours removable?


Kotmj, any chance for me to get the pic i requested before?


Added on August 29, 2011, 5:23 pmbtw, im gonna bring my friend to one of the tailors in Seremban (the one that ive mentioned before). He'll be the lab rat (if i manage to persuade him to commission a suit there)... Wish me luck.

This post has been edited by JeffxMatt: Aug 29 2011, 05:23 PM
JeffxMatt
post Aug 29 2011, 09:19 PM

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i managed to persuade my friend. idk what cloth he used (he bought it somewhere beforehand) but it felt rather heavy, around the weight of a Super 150-200. I did warn him to get something light and tropical fabric but i guessed he didnt listen. ah well..

anyhow, the first fitting is set on either the 10th or 11th. Ill try to make sure i take some pics.


Added on August 29, 2011, 9:21 pmKotmj, i tried asking that guy if he knew about cuff for trousers, he didnt. Had to show a picture to him before he understood what i meant and he said to me "..nanti masuk pasir liao..." or something like that.

This post has been edited by JeffxMatt: Aug 29 2011, 09:21 PM
JeffxMatt
post Aug 30 2011, 11:18 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 29 2011, 09:35 PM)
Aiyah, that guy knows about cuffs lah. He knows more about cuffs than you do. Tell him you love pasir in your trousers, and tell him to make them 1 3/4". If you have any ambition of becoming a great bespeaker of clothes you have to treat tailors like lazy workers and give them the occasional kick. You are the master of the universe and they are just a bloody worker who follows your instructions. They can advise you but the decision is yours.
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QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 29 2011, 10:04 PM)
They signify you belong to the club of know-somethings. They look special. They add weight to the bottom of the trousers*, making the trousers drape better.

*especially when full of pasir
*
the tailor said he would gladly do it for me if ever commission a suit at him and i wanted cuff on my trouser's hem but he wasnt too confident about being able to make a nice one plus he quite a faith about it collecting pasir.

i guess 1 3/4" would be just nice for a short guy like me or should i go for 1 1/2"? my height is roughly 160-170cm.

anyhow, id need more practice on treating them like a slave, a note or two from you would be highly appreciated.


QUOTE(stylophile @ Aug 29 2011, 11:51 PM)
^meaning i shouldn't cuff my pants if only 1 of my legs is long?
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im short too but hey, im still getting em one of these days. and i think Kotmj has quite often said he is short himself but you can still see him having cuffs on his trousers and it still looks good.


QUOTE(Cheenoo @ Aug 30 2011, 01:27 AM)
1 of my legs is definitely long, and thick. The other 2 are just regular legs.
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nice one mate... mind showing us a picture of your long and thick 'leg'? tongue.gif
JeffxMatt
post Sep 1 2011, 02:32 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Sep 1 2011, 02:25 AM)
Pics or your third leg is small and shrivelled.
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perused it, have you? brows.gif
JeffxMatt
post Sep 1 2011, 01:35 PM

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ahhh, lovely. thank you Kotmj! smile.gif that wasnt so hard now, wasnt it.

thanks again smile.gif
JeffxMatt
post Sep 6 2011, 05:39 PM

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QUOTE(goliath @ Sep 6 2011, 05:02 PM)
I'm pretty sure that you know what type of fitting you like and as how to convey your style to the tailor. No? Besides, they are tailors and I'm sure they know what they are doing. smile.gif
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im pretty sure that if you've followed this thread for a while you'd know that just by knowing what you want and being able to convey it to your tailor is insufficient.

plus, you should know that the skill level of tailors in Malaysia, (as Kotmj likes to say it) are below moderate.

and im quite positive that you'd still need to go for fittings even if you bespeak your shirts at Saville Row.

This post has been edited by JeffxMatt: Sep 6 2011, 05:42 PM

 

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