Silencer, I think you have a very well-made suit there, as you know yourself. From the pictures it's obvious the cloth drapes remarkably well for its weight. This is an 8 oz cloth, and if it were made of pure wool it would wear like pajamas. There would be sharp wrinkling and chronic creasing all over the place. Instead, your jacket drapes as if it were a 16 oz cloth. Here is the back of a jacket with such a heavy cloth by an accomplished tailor:
Mohair really makes a big difference to the drape. It gives featherweight tropical cloths surprising firmness and shape. Also, it keeps this shape where wool sags and looses everything. My wool suit had to be repressed after several days in a hot car, but my kid mohair was as sharp as on Day 1.
There are only two issues that I can see: much less waisting than mine, and pretty lame quarters.
During the first fitting, I was under the impression it was more waisted than this. Maybe I saw it wrong, or maybe AL let it out a bit. Even on my second suit, he asked if he could let out the waist by 1". I said no. Did he ask you anything about making it less waisted on the second fitting? A strongly nipped waist is important to make the jacket interesting to look at. Without the waist, a jacket is shapeless and bland and bleh. Henry Poole agrees (ALT and HP even have the same type of notch shape):
With regards the quarters: At the first fitting, the quarters were the most open I've seen AL cut. They were so open, in fact, that you may remember me staring and remarking about them to AL. But I did not ask him to change anything. Maybe he thought I disapproved, and happily changed it back to semi-closed ones since that's his house cut anyway. Ah well, you'll need to be more careful with the quarters in the future. You can console yourself with the fact that Anderson & Sheppard, too, cuts quarters like this.
Other than that, your suit is one-of-a-kind. You have a very well fitted jacket, with almost zero fitting flaws. The two issues I've addressed are a matter of taste, and are not technical problems with the fit. You have the coolest type of fabric and the breeziest lining around. Full-lining is the right choice because the cloth has a very open weave, and if it were half-lined, you'd be able to see a two-tone back due to a light-coloured shirt.
Thanks kotmj.....yup, he keeps insisting me to make the waist a bit loose as it will be too tight if i am gaining weight. But, the bottom line is this suit has the cleanest back compared with my other 7 suits ...and behold with the comfort of his cut.......no restriction at all for any of my movements....kept wearing it even after yesterday's meeting while others had already taken out their jackets....
Mar 2 2010, 08:47 PM
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I believe it all goes to personal preference....
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