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Photography The Sony Alpha Thread V18, The Orange Legion

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Sp00kY
post Dec 9 2008, 05:47 PM

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i would like to know too!
Sp00kY
post Dec 11 2008, 05:07 PM

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PCK-LH3AM can fit A200?
Sp00kY
post Dec 11 2008, 05:43 PM

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QUOTE(dingenius3 @ Dec 11 2008, 05:10 PM)
albert wrote at previous page:

PCK-LH1AM - for A700
PCK-LH2AM - for A200
PCK-LH3AM - for A300 and A350
PCK-LH4AM - for A900

They cannot be mounted on a camera which it is not designed for. All of them go for RM50.
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ok then i gotta go get it...thanks
Sp00kY
post Dec 12 2008, 07:48 AM

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shoe: i like the last one
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post Dec 12 2008, 11:28 AM

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hey can update us on what do they have for sony dslr in pcfair?
Sp00kY
post Dec 12 2008, 01:46 PM

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QUOTE(jonrwg @ Dec 12 2008, 01:00 PM)
i'm getting one later.. in the nite i inform u...  icon_rolleyes.gif
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i`m looking for the RM50 plastic screen cover for A200..
Sp00kY
post Dec 13 2008, 05:42 PM

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just tested 16~80CZ in sony...that lens is really really sharp..and bokeh looks good too(compare to kitlens smile.gif)


Added on December 13, 2008, 5:42 pmi saw 24~105 too, anyone tried this lens?

This post has been edited by Sp00kY: Dec 13 2008, 05:42 PM
Sp00kY
post Dec 13 2008, 08:42 PM

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QUOTE(noprob @ Dec 13 2008, 07:21 PM)
bro , test only ka ? hehe brows.gif
SAL 16105 got ah ?
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yeah test only heheh...
wanted to test 16105 but they don't have it there:)....the colors and sharpness of 1680 is really nice...
Sp00kY
post Dec 14 2008, 08:41 AM

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QUOTE(albnok @ Dec 14 2008, 06:53 AM)
ahtsong: Dangit now I'm hungry!

SpOOkY: I'm using a Minolta 24-105mm F3.5-4.5 (D) which is similiar to the Sony 24-105mm F3.5-4.5 for my A900. Very compact, shorter than the kit lens, but the range is optimized for a full-frame camera as 24mm is not very wide on APS-C.

The CZ 16-80mm F3.5=4.5 DT will give you the same range on APS-C as a 24-120mm F3.5-4.5 lens will give on full-frame. Of course, there is NO 24-120mm F3.5-4.5 lens - only the Nikkor 24-120mm F3.5-5.6 VR (meh) and the Tamron/Sigma 24-135mm F3.5-5.6 (again, neither of them are F4.5 at the tele end.)
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Bro, albnok thanks for the explanation but it is a bit complicated for me:).

Do you mean that 24mm will not be very wide on non-full-frame such as A200?

Is the SAL24105 24mm same as SAL16105, SAL1870 and sigma 2470 f/2.8 24mm? The 24mm on SAL1870 is sufficient for me for now (but of course 18mm/16mm will be a plus point). If the 24mm are not the same, then why?

I have another question and i do not know is it a problem with my AF.
Scenario:
AF Mode: Single-shot
AF Area: Spot
Metering: Spot

When I lock AF (half-press) on a subject A and recompose my picture, subject A should be AF locked right? Besides, the shutter speed should not change right(since subject A has been locked)?

But my shutter speed tends to change even after I lock AF on subject A and recompose my picture causing subject A to be OOF/wrong exposure.

Any comments on this?

Thanks
Sp00kY
post Dec 14 2008, 10:08 AM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Dec 14 2008, 09:01 AM)
No money for it, LOL... brows.gif

Anyhow, thanks for the assist on the KM... Really thought it was M42... sweat.gif


Added on December 14, 2008, 9:05 am

That's your problem right there in bold, SPOT METERING... You'll be better off by using AEL Lock (try checking the Manual for this)... AND Local AF, cause Spot AF is soooooo limiting... whistling.gif

Focus --> AEL Lock (lock the exposure reading on whatever you want in correct focus) --> recompose --> profit... IINM... Although recomposing ain't really recommended as it COULD (I say could) result in slight OOFing in the end (ask AhMike about stuff like this, as he's seen more then one occurrence of it with his 135/1.8CZ)... Try playing around with the Local AF points... biggrin.gif
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thanks...ooh so the camera is made to be like that. I tot that the metering should be locked based on the AF too. I know what is AEL, thanks...

I know that recomposing with Spot AF is not good idea as it may lead to OOF but sometimes the 9 local points just isnt sufficient when i want my subject to be really on the edge of the pic....

Besides, i use Spot AF is because it will be easier to non-dslr user to capture pic for me:)

ooooooooooooooo
....aaaaaaaaa aa
......mmm mmm
............ddd
..............|
..............|
..............|
..........CAMERA

I have one more question, as illustrated above, there are 4 rows of ppl (o,a,m and d)...if i were to shoot this type of group pic, where should i lock my AF? Infinity? What i usually do is lock AF on d and increase the DOF to either f/6 or more...is this correct?

This post has been edited by Sp00kY: Dec 14 2008, 10:14 AM
Sp00kY
post Dec 14 2008, 10:28 AM

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QUOTE(dingenius3 @ Dec 14 2008, 10:14 AM)
many people.. must use WIDE rite??but if they on the same row.. shouldn't they still be in focus??
now after zeissmike teach me about using LOCAL.. i'm having fun with it now..  thumbup.gif
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i am using local all the while too but when i pass my cam to others to shoot, i will change it to spot AF.

Wide? I tot wide u will allow the camera to decide which to AF? which i dont think it is a good idea..isnt it? correct me if i`m wrong.

btw, how many types/version of Sigma 24-70mm F2.8 EX DG MACRO are there in the market? market price now is 1500?cash or cc?
Sp00kY
post Dec 14 2008, 10:45 AM

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QUOTE(Ahmike @ Dec 14 2008, 10:39 AM)
Spooky.. i would suggest the following..

if the person is new to dslr... set to Auto/Program for him.
if the person is  experience just explain what to look out for..

this is cos if you set to Spot AF. In some picture. etc.. person on left and person right... the camera guy will just aim middle... but the spot AF might be aiming behind the background cos the user don't understand he using spot mode.
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ooh ya i get what u mean...yeah i guess i will have to stick to auto for them then smile.gif...btw, i`m still unsure on program and have not used it hehe, i`m always on A,M only smile.gif
Thanks ahmike!
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post Dec 14 2008, 11:55 AM

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QUOTE(Sp00kY @ Dec 14 2008, 10:08 AM)
thanks...ooh so the camera is made to be like that. I tot that the metering should be locked based on the AF too. I know what is AEL, thanks...

I know that recomposing with Spot AF is not good idea as it may lead to OOF but sometimes the 9 local points just isnt sufficient when i want my subject to be really on the edge of the pic....

Besides,  i use Spot AF is because it will be easier to non-dslr user to capture pic for me:)

ooooooooooooooo
....aaaaaaaaa aa
......mmm mmm
............ddd
..............|
..............|
..............|
..........CAMERA

I have one more question, as illustrated above, there are 4 rows of ppl (o,a,m and d)...if i were to shoot this type of group pic, where should i lock my AF? Infinity? What i usually do is lock AF on d and increase the DOF to either f/6 or more...is this correct?
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For example. when we are shooting for the below:
......... ___________
people|.................|people
people|.................|people
people|.................|people
people|.................|people
.........|_________|people

........ ..Cameraman

Imagine if everyone is seated on a long table and you are at the 'cameraman' position. What setting/mode/technique that i should use to get everybody in focus? I am currently having this problem where i couldn't get everyone in focus...but probably only managed to get the first 2 rows

This post has been edited by Sp00kY: Dec 14 2008, 11:57 AM
Sp00kY
post Dec 15 2008, 08:54 AM

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QUOTE(albnok @ Dec 15 2008, 01:56 AM)
SpOOkY: Yes, 24mm on ANY lens will be the same on the A200.

Also, to focus on groups, I usually focus on the person CLOSEST to me. It ends up looking a lot more pleasant than focusing on the rear row. Try both. wink.gif To be safe, you can focus on the second row from front (mmm mmm), 1/3rds into the crowd.

This can be used for long tables also. But I really always try to shoot them at an angle which is easier to get them all in focus.

Finally, when passing it to friends, Wide AF is the way to go. Too often, I get backfocused pictures because my friends shoot an even number of friends, so the center AF point is on the background!

cjlai: I prefer the reverse front ring method - you can zoom the lens that is on the camera, and have full autoexposure, AF and aperture control. The reversed lens is just functioning as a magnifier, an expensive version of the Raynox!
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Thanks bro. i always focus the person that is closer to me too, but i just cant get everyone at the back in focus...i have tried increasing to f/11 but i still cant get them focused properly...probably it is limitation with camera? :)ty
Sp00kY
post Dec 15 2008, 11:31 AM

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Wow f16? then i will need to buy a cobra adi!
Sp00kY
post Dec 15 2008, 04:12 PM

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QUOTE(raist86 @ Dec 15 2008, 02:45 PM)
i just tried out the tamron 17-50mm 2.8 today. Shop selling at RM 1650. Is it a good price arr?

I'm looking for a fast lens to replace my kit. Any other alternatives besides the tamron 17-50 2.8 and sigma 24-70 2.8? budget around 1.5k lo.
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i will recommend 24-70 because the price is about the same...hahah
Sp00kY
post Dec 16 2008, 09:48 AM

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noprob, i think that the first one is quite nice but the building looks slanted.
Sp00kY
post Dec 16 2008, 04:49 PM

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F58AM-RM 850????sure or not
Sp00kY
post Dec 16 2008, 05:35 PM

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i will buy it if its true haha
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post Dec 16 2008, 05:59 PM

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what is the parameter that determines a FF lens? how do we check?thx

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