wanna ask which one is better fc ? 90 % highway 10 % city !
bcoz i everyday travel from puchong to klia which car suit me better ?
thx !!

lol i got for seg, more power as well , lol getting 20v 4 throttle ?

the seg milelage already 200k wor ! year1999

if u like water bed..go get a myvi

lol 200k so high ? lol no other meh -.-

get a myvi.. nice and more space inside

what u means? too bouncy or too bumpy?

but if get old ae111, dont forget about the maintenance for old car...

yah. old car cost some money to maintain.. just get a new car.. problem solve

But if you take a new car...you have to worry about paying the monthly installments,and add in the regular servicing too, problems still not solve actually!

And that's not all true that old cars always needs 100% money and attention to maintain. It depends on how is the condition and how the last owner took care of it.

Take example my Nissan, it doesn't break down often enough to break my wallet.Over the years, I just do my usual oil changes and only once in a while, I fork out more when something else breakdowns .

But otherwise, Toyota and Nissan built cars to last.

TS, I test-drove a MYVI on KLIA highway, and I can attest that kinda floaty on KLIA highway. If I were you,I rather go for the Corrola for more comfort, more power & spaciousness. Everything is better than a Myvi, if Corrola vs MYVI.

MYVI is a good car, but it's suspension is setup to be best driven around town.

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Oct 31 2008, 08:37 AM

u sure bout this?

I think you are a Pro-MYVI supporter, for you are blinded the truth, that Corrola still beats it hands down for spaciousness. LOL!

TS,
I sat in my friend's Corrola AE111 Auto version, and I loved the feeling of solidness and good NVH (Noise,Vibration,Handling). MYVI and Corrola both are on a different class of cars and still, if you sat in a Corrola first..and then later sat in a MYVI, you would definitely go back to a Corrola.

Take a manual version for highest fuel economy since you are primarily for highway runs.

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Oct 31 2008, 08:28 AM

Yes, and furthermore there's Warranty too ~~~ only available for new car ~~

get ae111,
more power and more stable and BIG boot in the event you need the space...

old car yes but once u do the initial touch up and aged parts replacement, it is good to run....
remember this is one of the best toyota car to date.. a workhorse... literally u just need to pour petrol and jalan...

not to mention you are different instead of being seen in another run around pasar malam racer wannabe car.... unless you wan a boat ride to work everyday la and pretend that you are in venice

Since already 2nd hand, why not get the 1994 SEG (AE101) RM20k+ . 1999 SEG pricing still not worth (30k~40k).

ae111 more power .. yeah of course.. but MyVi New one maaa.. got warranty . look nice coz its still a new car


ae101 ? i thought ae101 is a rare car tho ?

This post has been edited by WanMya: Oct 31 2008, 09:23 AM

Is that all you can point out...new new new? LOL

You didn't hear this saying?

~~ Old is Gold ~~

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Oct 31 2008, 09:45 AM

how about old is rusty

get d seg lulz
but 200k milg
but after repairin n stuff
i think da car is rdy for a good run

get second hand vios or city ids, both also save fuel. should be able to find under ur budget price range.

AE111 is kinda cramp vs MyVi for passenger space, esp the legroom.

Yes it has big boot, but as like any sedan boot, most of big squarish items (e.g. 29" CRT TV) can't be ferried even if it has a >500L boot space. Been there, tried that. These items are feasible on hatchback like Satria, MyVi.

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Added on October 31, 2008, 9:56 amThat will double the price.



This post has been edited by dstl1128: Oct 31 2008, 09:56 AM

if 90% highway, get seg. Myvi is good for city driving, not highway.
Then use 1-2k to service ur seg, check tires, brake pads. Change engine oil, brake oil, gear oil, timing belt. FLush ur radiator. Check suspension and absorber, spark plugs. Then off u go..................

This post has been edited by joanalooidog: Oct 31 2008, 10:56 AM

bro, hands down get a used SEG. but if the ae111 you saw is already 200km mileage, then i suggest you look around for better condition unit. or better yet, if you wanna save more cash, then get an AE101. i personally think ae101 looks better than the ae111. generally speaking, toyotas are built to last. very reliable and economic. just take some time and find a well maintained unit and you wont regret it.

This post has been edited by e30: Oct 31 2008, 12:03 PM

AE111 would be much better... though is an old car but maintenance should be ok as toyota is a realiable car. Plus parts are abundle

high mileage (long run on highway) is not necessarily no good.. id rather take tat rather than a car that is super low mileage because all it does is to run 3km in a jam and then off engine.. resulting in the engine never really warm up

Yeah Agreed.

Highway runs usually are more relaxing and more beneficial to the engine, as the constant high RPM and high combustion temperatures will burn off the old carbon naturally.

High mileage vehicles doesn't always means bad, guys.
200,000KM is nothing. It's too common for most cars on the road at this age, or older. My own ride is already more than 200,000KM now and running strong.

Take a look at old Volvos.. for example..they can have like 500,000KM on the clock and they run like a healthy horse.

The Americans always celebrate whenever their cars hit 200K miles. MILES. Thats 321,868 ,FYI.
Search in Youtube.Tons of these videos.

Shame on you guys for discriminating a 200,000KM car without giving it one chance.High mileages doesn't necessarily means its a wrecked car.


This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Oct 31 2008, 12:44 PM

Also, my vote still holds for Corrola because their gearbox ratio is very tall. Meaning high speed, low RPMs.

I recall that MYVI Auto at 110Km/h is around 3000-3200RPM while the Corrola AE101 Auto version has much lower RPM than 3000RPM. This translate to quieter running and of course, less fuel.

Any MYVI owner (WanMya, you also) can confirm the speeds?

if u got money..get new car better..trouble-free..old car..depends on ur luck wor..sumtime the car dun like u..sure spoil or break down often..

I think its not the g/b.. its the cc difference.. larger engines normally can run at lower rpm for the same speed compared to smaller engines

AE101 at

90km/h 2k rpm
120km/h 2.5k RPM
140km/h 3k RPM
160km/h 4Krpm
180km/h 6-6.2k RPM

gear ratio determine the speed at watever rpm

standard or got do some modify on it??

which gear?

Stock car & AUTO.

gear ah?
i not sure woh... i think all 4th(overdrive)

but for 180km/h , i think the gear goes back to 3rd...

This post has been edited by fillet: Oct 31 2008, 12:59 PM

also what kind of engine oil??

Toyota Fully Synthetic 5W-40

even stock rim and tire??

yes.. everything stock. why?

the rim is 14"(besi punya), tyres 185/65R14 Michelin XM1

The price difference between a new Myvi and a 2nd-hand Corolla will offset many years of petrol money. Even more so if he chooses to buy a 2nd hand City or Vios.

Then again, I'm quite sure the fuel consumption difference between a 1.6 AUTO AE 111 and 1.3 AUTO Myvi is not much. 1.3 Auto Myvi is well known for it's somewhat high fuel consumption despite its small engine.

However, 200,000 km mileage is a bit high and I suggest you try looking for one with lower mileage. Get a manual one if you don't mind, the fuel consumption difference is quite significant especially with older cars and gearboxes.

As for space, I have to testify that the Myvi at least FELT more spacious compared to the Corolla. I think it's because the Myvi has better legroom and headroom, although the Corolla has a wider interior. As for boot space, the Corolla can carry more bags but if you need to carry very large items, hatchbacks are still more useful.

This one I believe you, cause I sat in my friend's AE101,cruising on the Federal Highway, and I thought his tacho was faulty! LOL

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Added on October 31, 2008, 1:46 pmViscosity of the engine oil does not affect any speedometer or RPM reading.

Only tyres and rim sizes do.

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Oct 31 2008, 01:47 PM

lol viscosity of oil do affect the performance

Nothing to Laugh about.
Engine Performance , Yes, can be affected or improved due to lubricant drag and improper usage of oil viscosity.

But What I was relating, was engine RPM and Speed of Vehicle Ratio. Lubricant still can't affect the relations of RPM vs Speed of Vehicle Ratio.
2 different things I am talking here.

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Oct 31 2008, 02:01 PM

no lar..just wondering lor..not bad lar ur car..

well for rpm and ratio lol its do not affect tho lol just woke up so never see clearly rofl

good morning to u.. but if the car is manual..i think somehow will give out better performance kua..

ae111 will beat myvi like shit in term of peformance, space, sound proof, stablility, top speed, etc etc..

Furthermore...pimp the Corrola AE101, drop in 4AGE or 4AGEZ 20V engine, and put some nice black rims,
park it next to a souped up MYVI with whatever "TRD Passo" bodkykit, and it still stands out.

I could imagine if the both owners pops open their bonnets and see who drolls more
4AGEZ vs. K3VET

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Oct 31 2008, 02:41 PM

SEG definitely!

but but..k3 can smoke b16a like nothing..seen it so many times

nvm..the myvi with k3 will definately die faster

k3vet with a proper chasis to match like those direct from japan..
yeap those are fast and deadly...

the malaysia version, erm..... nevermind...

erm... i do drive myvi everyday now and aeg111 sometimes b4... trust me , u wont like myvi on the highway if it's purely stock...(if u are going to speed)

This post has been edited by haoshou: Oct 31 2008, 04:53 PM

the seg is well maintain by my bro recently he just change 4 absorber + timing belt + left and right drive shaft +engine mounting and gearbox
all priginal part from umw ! accept the gearbox is recon
wat u guys think ?

This post has been edited by ah_fong: Oct 31 2008, 06:32 PM

Wah, gearbox also! I heard original UMW parts are really expensive, according to my friend who owns an AE 101 SEG.

Anyway, 4AGZ-E and K3-VET are a different class of engines already. Might as well don't talk about FC if you're going for those.

stuff from UMW is damn expensive!!

for example the drive shaft, original part cost 1K(one side only)

Recon RM300
AE101 is a good car. buy it.. spent some money to fix the problems.... then can use for FEW years.......
Absorber OEM Kayaba cost RM 125(if i still remember corectly. forgot 175 or 125) Each.
Spring is RM60 each.

if want to get original parts, i suggest you all go to Wing Hin Motorsports at JLN Loke. Yew.

they are the Authorized Distributor for UMW Toyota Parts and also TRD japan parts. and their pricing is very reasonable.

AE101 AE111 basically it's the same car. only the looks is different, and some say the chasis is different too.


This post has been edited by fillet: Oct 31 2008, 07:07 PM

hey, myvi bigger or wira sedan bigger?

in myvi and satria, u have to put at the rear passenger seat.. u also can do that in ae111 or any sedan.. boot has its limited height and width which naturally passenger seat has more.. heck, i doubt the 29" tv can even fit in accord and camry

its the gearbox ratio.. cc difference gives different power and torque at same rpm
eg:
1.3L gives 50bhp while 2.0L gives 80bhp @ 3000rpm

---

Added on October 31, 2008, 7:30 pmno doubt, ae1xx series was one of the best toyota around..much better than the vios
more space, more power, better reliability, tougher built, acceptable fc despite the age..
myvi.................. u have to ask the fans

This post has been edited by imperialrealcs: Oct 31 2008, 07:30 PM

ae111 have trouble free engine and gearbox..even if u trash it like shit and not servicing it..it damn very reliable

the problem with ae1xx is the absorber not lasting..this is due to the sagging old spring..i suggest u replace it with ae101 levin suspension front and rear..pretty cheap in halfcut shop

i have AE101. i only replaced the Absorbers. Spring still using 16 yr old STOCK

if i change the spring to NEW AE101 OEM Spring, will ym ride height Change? will my car look ugly?

FC for Highway Driving, i drove 4-5 times already KL to AlorSetar

at 130-140km/h 10.5-11KM per Liter( confirmed, cause i always drive at this speed range)

At 120km/h i think it's about 13km/L

i think the FC is reasonable for a 16yr old car.

This post has been edited by fillet: Oct 31 2008, 08:00 PM

what are 4AGEZ 20v engines?? never heard of that before. as far as i know, for the SEG (101/111) the most popular mod are 4age 20v silvertops or the newer blacktops. if you're referring to 4AGZE, that is a fairly old supercharged engine. but since TS is going for FC, why even suggest forced induction. if later on TS wants to swap engines, then to me blacktops are the best bet.


well TS, since you're buying from your bro i suppose you're getting it slightly cheaper than market price. since its very well looked after, go for it. if you want cheaper options, i highly suggest AE101..

My SEG 260k, everyday travel from Bukit Jalil to Sunway, RM40 for 5 days go and back.

I guess the FC is acceptable la, I travel 90-100 on highway RPM constantly 2800-3000rpm

---

Added on October 31, 2008, 8:16 pmConverting to blacktops illegal or not?

---

Added on October 31, 2008, 8:20 pmWow really?

My SEG 1.6 run 90 at 2800rpm

This post has been edited by karhoe: Oct 31 2008, 08:20 PM

if u like to have some fun..just change to levin 101 spring

firmer a bit than stock..same height as sagged ae101 spring

i also suspect his gear ratio or his tacho got problem...
as i remember my old toyota 4A-E 1.6cc manual can reach 80km/h @ 2200rpm and 100km/h 2500rpm...
my old car all in stock condition included rims and tires...

So why is the reason BOTH my SEG have different RPM for 110kmh?

The first SEG runs 90 at 3000
The second SEG runs 90 at 2800

Both same model, 1.6 litres manual

i would go for the ae111.....

i used to drive ae101 to work before swapping my ride for a honda accord......

the FC is really good and it really solid...... even myvi is not a match for the ae series.....

and it quite reliable as well... now my dad still used it to drive to work occasionally..... as it has good FC....

dun worry bout the maintainece coz ae series has lots of spare parts in malaysia and its not really expensive...

even u go 2 any of the chop shop, u will sure get the spare parts...

This post has been edited by duckevo: Oct 31 2008, 08:58 PM

Yo dude. Cool it la.
Just some suggestive suggestions for future mods la
If he wants to take the suggestion, he can ask more about it.

I was also comparing apple with apple. You should know that K3VET is turbocharged right...how can I pop in a 4AGE N/A engine and compare with a turbo-charged K3VET?

For FC main concerns, yeah, just stick to the ori engine. TS wont go wrong with taking over the bro's AE101.

Cheers!

This post has been edited by SleeplessEyes: Oct 31 2008, 09:18 PM

so high meh?? sure or not>? my family own the car for 16 years already.... never have problem woh with tacho or gear woh.. mechanic never say anything also.

i started driving it 5 years ago. the RPM is the same until now.

my car 150K mileage only.

u manual, u use which gear for 80km/h? highest gear?

my Tachometer, if i floor the pedal, it's only switch gear at the red line woh. got problem?

This post has been edited by fillet: Oct 31 2008, 09:23 PM

my house's old car bought on 1985... never change wiring or mod the car before... of cos 5th gear @ 80km/h @ 2200rpm... then u should consult with ur mechanic why other auto car can change gear without red line lo...

generally ur car should be higher a lil bit if ur spring already saggy

in some circumstances, force induction eventually help in FC with low boost that is

converting to blacktop perfectly legal if u endorsed with JPJ if u changed the whole halfcut..
i dont know whether our local 4A-FE block can rojak with 4A-GE Blacktop head or not

are u sure 90@ 2.8k? sound like a short ratio gearbox to me
my car 110km/h @ 2.8k rpm but auto la

my car change gear red line because i floor the pedal...

once i floor the pedal, the car will downshift, then accelerate all the way until red line then change gear.

if i drive normally, 2.5k-3k change gear already.

it doesnt matter because ur km/h reading should be proportional to ur rpm
unless there was some clutch slippage then it wont vary

i still think 90-100 km/h at 2.8k -3 K RPM is very very high...
my car in workshop now for some paint job. gonna try again when it's done

Wait.... is the tyre size STOCK or what?? if the previous owner tukar the Size, and never calibrate the meter properly, it may show you the wrong speed.

mine is 185/65R14

This post has been edited by fillet: Oct 31 2008, 09:58 PM

if changed to 15", ur tyre height will be lessen like:
185/65/14 VS 185/55/15

in the end, it still wont vary too much

new myvi is no match for a 10 year old toyota.

i own a AE110, and i just sat on my fren's new myvi SE, 0km on the speedo.. i thought to myself, everything just doesn't feel right in a myvi.

no offence to Myvi owner

yo i am cooling it. i initially asked coz in your earlier post you suggested a 4AGEZ 20V so i was like woah toyota got new 20v izzit.. and since 4agze is a 16v, i thought it actually wasn't a typo. no big deal

soo FC seg and myvi for highway izit seg better izit ?

for SEG AE101 on Highway

it's about 12-13km/L if u drive at 110-120km/h .

Myvi, u have to find out and compare

real scenario:
im cruising at 140km/h on highway to malacca on wira sedan and my friend myvi following..
he eventually called me asking me not to drive fast coz his car wobbling.. my friend in the myvi also confirm floaty like anytime will turn turtle
my point is: comfort level for highway cruising, still seg the best

seg ae111 have silvertop or blacktop and 4afe , silvertop and blacktop is 20v , power , handling , sedan , you decide rofl

like they all mentioned, if you rather float in a boat on the highway everyday, get the myvi. cheers.

MYVI - City
SEG - Highway

If you care about your fuel consumption, please don't convert your engine to Silvertop (4AGE 20v), Blacktop (4AGE 20v) or supercharged engine (4AGZE 16v).

I once owned a AE101 that comes with a silvertop and I re-convert again into Blacktop. Although I could get about 230km @ RM30 (RM1.92/L) considering mine is the most fuel economic blacktop around town based on the members I known and also my fuel consumption is way better than some silvertop owners. The silvertop engine could get better mileage 260km @ RM30 (RM1.92/L)

Don't mentioned about the supercharged engine which has worse fuel consumption than silvertop and blacktop.

I can remember, cruising at 110 km/h my RPM is 3300 @ 5th gear both same with silvertop and blacktop.

Rev limit for silvertop is 7400 whilst for blacktop is 7900.

For the thread starter, if you have planned to convert your engine into either of those, considering buying a car with the engine conversion, you don't want to find the halfcut/endorsed with JPJ/spending time at the workshop. But still persists and hunting you if you are unlucky with the halfcut you got plus the workmanship.

If you want fuel consumption stay away from these engines and keep your engine healthy i.e. change your engine oil regularly and from my experience it doesn't matter which engine oil you used but make sure you change regularly. But I always use 10-40 grade.

As for other points like changing new absorber, etc... has been mentioned by other members so best if you take note of it.

oh ya..

never covert to AUTO 20v..it is a pain in ass to drive in city..the gear change is stupid..when u tekan slowly..u havent felt any power it already upshift to next gear then it feel like shit...if u tekan heavily..it give u 300km per full tank

it dont have any power at all..if u want auto 20v might as well use stock 4afe

since your bro take good care of the car & replaced aged parts, it should be good to go

my stock ae111 4AFE (A), current mileage 195k km, still strong. when bought second hand (i am now 3rd owner), changed 4 new tyres (stock rim), 4 new shocks only, timing belt, flush radiator, left & right front drive shaft, power steering rack, master brake pump, plug in platinum plugs (just changed to iridium today), some aged belts changed, it is real really good to go now.
cruising KL to JB 2 times with power steering rack leaking (left less than quarter in the bottle when reached JB), right drive shaft rubber cover leak, no problem all the way!

highway, >110km/hr also easily overtake. i get 15.xx-16.xx km/liter when fully cruise highway. just town driving 10.xx-11.xx km/liter & traffic jam (after plug in pivot blue, spark earth, hot inazma, grounding cables).
without pivot blue, spark earth, hot inazma, grounding cables, 13.xx-14.xx km/liter when fully cruise highway. just town driving 9.xx-10.xx km/liter & traffic jam.

compare SEG & Myvi, will never sell SEG but will sell MyVi if some1 offer.

so get urself SEG as ur bro take good care of it. stick to stock engine & consider overhaul after it aged.

This post has been edited by ch_teo: Nov 1 2008, 03:36 PM

thx guys ! i guess i'll get corolla then ! thx alot !!!!
but i'll stick to the old engine !

This post has been edited by ah_fong: Nov 1 2008, 07:13 PM

wei, anyone's 4AFE engine started combusting Engine Oil??

my engine, 150k KM , started burning engine oil, after about 5K KM, the oil level will drop...

The DriveShaft Rubber cover, much change if got leakage. Taiwan Made RM35 only. if you don't change ah, once the bearing wears out(dirt, dust, sand all masuk), have to change new DriveShaft.

i got weird noise from the Rear le.. everytime go over bump, can hear Ngek, Ngek. i just replaced the absorber Last year only woh. all 4 Absorber. milage about 30k km.

The Car nice to drive... but still it's old already hehe.. Fix this problem today, another will pop out tomorrow.. .....

This post has been edited by fillet: Nov 1 2008, 08:29 PM

my '92 corolla looses to my wife's kelisa on ONE (and only ONE) point, corolla drinks more than kelisa.

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Added on December 2, 2008, 7:41 ammy ride has now clocked 250000km, and the stock engine is still superb (no makan lub oil), and using 10W30.

---

Added on December 2, 2008, 8:16 amnew car does not necessary equate to trouble-free.
eg. my father-in-law bought a new honda crv, and problemS started the second day after leaving showroom:
- kenwood speaker likes to turn on & off by itself. had them immediately fixed by authorised audio dealer, it was loose speaker clips ALL 4 speakers! But problem persists EVEN until today, simply bang on the speaker few times and the sound will come back, finger crossed. As of last week, only one speaker remain singing.

- air ventilation remains 'OPEN' even if select 'circulate'; found this problem 2-3 weeks after leaving showroom, because tailed a black smoking bus. service center KL said,'ALL THE NEW MODEL CRV HAS THIS PROBLEM'. to fix the problem, they SEALED the vent. the seal is leaking smell again.

- a trianglar shaped black plastic (next to window glass) dropped out by itself, 3-4 DAYS after leaving showroom, and the service center said ,' YOUR KID SPOILED IT', i was like

so, paying rm140k for a new car, that has minor problems here and there really kills the joy of owning it.

getting a used car, however, will not feel bad with minor problems as it is expected.

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Added on December 2, 2008, 8:17 amand if can drive at 90km/h fc is about 15km/L (my '92 corolla 1.6 (M), using 10W30 lub).


This post has been edited by xxx2299: Dec 2 2008, 08:17 AM