Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

 [wta] amp crossover setting. LPF or HPF?, for 6.5 component set at front door

views
     
Gary1981
post Oct 30 2008, 12:32 PM

Regular
******
Senior Member
1,610 posts

Joined: May 2008


QUOTE(pisces @ Oct 22 2008, 06:05 PM)
What comps are you using??
Check the FR and if possible, reduce the HPF to 63hz at 18db/oct.
This would give you more ooommmmp in the front stage..
*
Am using Eton RS 160...i did set at 63hz sometimes.....
mnkh27
post Oct 30 2008, 03:49 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
212 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Land of Petaling Jaya
You can run full pass if you have an enclosure for your mid/woofer.

The supplied passive crossover with your component set basically handles the crossover points for your tweeter, but only a lowpass (to prevent it from playing gradually all the way up above, i.e 5,000-6,000Hz) for the mid/woofer.

Therefore, like what some of the forumers here have pointed out, you still need a high pass (to prevent it from playing gradually below a certain level that you set) for the mid/woofer, or else it could play all the way down and damage the drivers if you play really insanely loud (there is difference tolerance level from different speaker drivers). If you do not play very loud, then it it fine but many people high pass to clean up the bass so that the midrange (or the part where vocals/voices are prominent) improves.

However, if you find that you have mount or install the mid/woofer properly, it can be set lower, so that it can play more lows without being muddled or cover up the midrange frequencies too much. You will also notice that if you use better cabling or better amplification, your mids behave differently as well.

So, there are quite a few factors involved when you decide on the high pass point for your mid/woofer. Perhaps, if you are in the stage of learning, you can just set it at 80Hz and bring it up gradually to 100Hz or down to 60Hz... yes, I repeat, gradually... to see which one sounds best to you. Normally, based on years and years of experimenting, you will NEVER find a sweet spot where everything sounds excellent (i.e just enough midbass, just enough clarity on the mids and mid-highs). Usually, something has to be given up for another.

Before you go into tuning, things will be much easier when:
1) Your install is excellent ichiban!! (30-50 bucks installs just would not be sufficient, honestly)
2) Your cabling is no sub-standard
3) Your amp gives enough juice to your speaker and your amp is not starved of power (suppy)
TSthunder_kiat
post Oct 30 2008, 04:27 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
120 posts

Joined: Jan 2008


QUOTE(mnkh27 @ Oct 30 2008, 03:49 PM)
You can run full pass if you have an enclosure for your mid/woofer.

The supplied passive crossover with your component set basically handles the crossover points for your tweeter, but only a lowpass (to prevent it from playing gradually all the way up above, i.e 5,000-6,000Hz) for the mid/woofer.

Therefore, like what some of the forumers here have pointed out, you still need a high pass (to prevent it from playing gradually below a certain level that you set) for the mid/woofer, or else it could play all the way down and damage the drivers if you play really insanely loud (there is difference tolerance level from different speaker drivers). If you do not play very loud, then it it fine but many people high pass to clean up the bass so that the midrange (or the part where vocals/voices are prominent) improves.

However, if you find that you have mount or install the mid/woofer properly, it can be set lower, so that it can play more lows without being muddled or cover up the midrange frequencies too much. You will also notice that if you use better cabling or better amplification, your mids behave differently as well.

So, there are quite a few factors involved when you decide on the high pass point for your mid/woofer. Perhaps, if you are in the stage of learning, you can just set it at 80Hz and bring it up gradually to 100Hz or down to 60Hz... yes, I repeat, gradually... to see which one sounds best to you. Normally, based on years and years of experimenting, you will NEVER find a sweet spot where everything sounds excellent (i.e just enough midbass, just enough clarity on the mids and mid-highs). Usually, something has to be given up for another.

Before you go into tuning, things will be much easier when:
1) Your install is excellent ichiban!! (30-50 bucks installs just would not be sufficient, honestly)
2) Your cabling is no sub-standard
3) Your amp gives enough juice to your speaker and your amp is not starved of power (suppy)
*
thanks for ur reply, really long essay. can understand 50% of it only.....still new....
bafukie
post Oct 31 2008, 06:36 AM

Regular
******
Senior Member
1,406 posts

Joined: Aug 2006
From: Everywhere


lol... mnkh27 did a very good explanation already. Perhaps u need to understand more about FR aka frequency response of all the drivers. Rough example will be

Sub: freq played should be 80hz and below with steep slope like 18db or 24db so that ur bass is clean

Midrange: any freq from 80hz or 63hz all the way up to ur tweeter freq eg 4000hz

tweeter: from 4000 onwards

For passive setup, the frequency cut off point has been set via ur passive cross-over. So, for your case, just need to set the HPF for the midbass to play. What mnkh27 is trying to tell is that freq cut off point can be adjusted according to drivers ability. However also very much depends on the installation.
TSthunder_kiat
post Oct 31 2008, 10:11 AM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
120 posts

Joined: Jan 2008


QUOTE(bafukie @ Oct 31 2008, 06:36 AM)
lol... mnkh27 did a very good explanation already. Perhaps u need to understand more about FR aka frequency response of all the drivers. Rough example will be

Sub: freq played should be 80hz and below with steep slope like 18db or 24db so that ur bass is clean

Midrange: any freq from 80hz or 63hz all the way up to ur tweeter freq eg 4000hz

tweeter: from 4000 onwards

For passive setup, the frequency cut off point has been set via ur passive cross-over. So, for your case, just need to set the HPF for the midbass to play. What mnkh27 is trying to tell is that freq cut off point can be adjusted according to drivers ability. However also very much depends on the installation.
*
i knew, he did vy well, can see his effort in his essay...haha. i got few further question. as u said on Sub, midrange and tweeter:

what should i set for
1) LPF - ? (for sub)
2) HPF - ? (for component set)

for the time being....i just set in between only for both ....which i think sound better....
mnkh27
post Oct 31 2008, 01:01 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
212 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Land of Petaling Jaya
essay pulak... you want essay ah, gimme your email!! tongue.gif or read my blog.
TSthunder_kiat
post Oct 31 2008, 01:36 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
120 posts

Joined: Jan 2008


QUOTE(mnkh27 @ Oct 31 2008, 01:01 PM)
essay pulak... you want essay ah, gimme your email!!  tongue.gif  or read my blog.
*
ck_tan82@hotmail.com tongue.gif
bafukie
post Oct 31 2008, 05:22 PM

Regular
******
Senior Member
1,406 posts

Joined: Aug 2006
From: Everywhere


I thought i replied u already

LPF on sub from 80hz all the way down (63 or 50)

HPF: from 80hz all the way up (100 etc)
TSthunder_kiat
post Nov 3 2008, 09:35 AM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
120 posts

Joined: Jan 2008


QUOTE(bafukie @ Oct 31 2008, 05:22 PM)
I thought i replied u already

LPF on sub from 80hz all the way down (63 or 50)

HPF: from 80hz all the way up (100 etc)
*
ok. i ll try this out. let u guys know the result
taaron
post May 6 2011, 06:07 PM

New Member
*
Junior Member
49 posts

Joined: Jun 2007


Attached Image

The spec sheet above is based on the SPX-F17T components. Currently I've set HPF 63Hz@24db at my HU, amp x-over set to Off.

Based on the spec sheet, the FR range is 30Hz - 35,000 Hz. Is it safe to say that I could set my HPF anywhere around 30Hz@24db? I don't dare to crank up the volume loud to test that HPF settings, who knows might damage my mids..besides that, my front doors are all deadened and sealed, midbass speakers are solid mounted..

Anyone care to give me tips on my doubts?
SUSgrinders
post May 10 2011, 01:32 AM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
93 posts

Joined: Jan 2008


what are the different betwen lpf hpf full and other thing bass boost and subwoofer level on the amp try to play with my brother amp brows.gif

This post has been edited by grinders: May 10 2011, 01:33 AM
zennn
post May 10 2011, 04:33 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
3 posts

Joined: Jan 2009


taaron i think u can try lower than 63, those mids are quite good, plus your door is well prepped already. try la 55 or 50 or 45 and see how it goes on high volume...

grinders set to hpf when u are using the amp formidrange/tweeter or component set
set to lpf when using amp for sub
set to full when using 6x9 coaxial, the 2 way 3 way type sepakers
bass boost is like an eq, but fixed frequency, like 80hz boost your sub if u need, if not dont boost
sub level: not sure about this, could be the same as bass boost
gain level: this is important, its like a volume knob but cant put so high, can damage your speakers.
howiechoo
post May 10 2011, 05:07 PM

Sincerely providing good music since 2004
******
Senior Member
1,919 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: KL


if ur door are well built, i will cross it at 50/63hz 6db slope......

u need to blend ur mid and sub, while most 12db or above sucks.....
cross it higher, make the slope lower, blend better

 

Change to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.0189sec    0.44    6 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 16th December 2025 - 08:05 PM