1) normally use LPF or HPF?
---a) without sub?
---b) with sub?

2) how bout the bass and treeble setting?

i m using 4channel. my setup is
ch1/ch2 - front (component set 6.5)
ch3/ch4 - bridge for sub (not yet buy)

i already tune. just wanted to know how u guys tuning only?

crossover set to full pass if u are using passive crossover

bass - 0
treble - 0

totally dun understand what u mean here. can u answer by number? eg

1. answer 1
1a. answer 1a
1b. answer 1b

2. answer b.....etc

Even if you are running passives, you still need to set to HPF, unless you want your comps to play down as low as 20hz by setting to FULL.
And I have never come across any comps that can play so low.
For the sub, set to LPF.

so normally the front door component are set to HPF rite? for sub defintely LPF.

in ur case, yes

Is usual component set uses HPF setting.

For my setup, i've set HPF at 80Hz to eliminate low bass distort from front door. Leaving my 6x9 to LPF to get the bass sound job done.

If set to Full Pass then you have no sound stage effect.

sound like most of u all set to FULL for HPF for front 6.5 component. then how bout its bass and treeble? got any setting for that? i mean for front component

amps i think normally got bass boost and adjustable gain(volume) onli, no bass and treble config. if u use component, then u juz set full pass and let the passive x-overs do the job.

let me put in simple words

front comps on passives xover...go HPF range within 60Hz to 80Hz, depending on xover order and component character

sub is alwiz on LPH with d xover at regions of 80hz and below.

good amps do not have bass/treble settings
only gain control and xover
top ends prolly dont even have xover and gain...hahahahaha

Btw, for mine, i set my amp to full range with gain at 7o'clock, use HU xover(80hz@18db)...but now im subless....previously using also HU xover for sub(100hz).....

What comps are you using??
Check the FR and if possible, reduce the HPF to 63hz at 18db/oct.
This would give you more ooommmmp in the front stage..

what is FR?

Wrong info

This post has been edited by jimmylim85: Oct 24 2008, 01:45 AM

FR=frequency response.
Normally for comps, the manufacturer will state the FR, for example, 50hz-20,000hz.

ok. ya. mine oso stated 50hz-20,000hz. what relation FR and the compo?

FR rating means ur comps runs best at that range

example:

Frequency response 50hz to 20,000Hz....meaning to say ur comps works best within that range

i set my hpf at 63hz @ 12db.

distortions? well probably installations problems.

ok, ysdy i borrow my fren's ear.

i am using 4 channel amp, using 3 stereo method mean ch1 and ch2 for my component set and ch3 and ch4 bridge for subwoofer.


this is what is did:
ch1 and ch2 - HPF
ch1 and ch4 - of coz LPF

all the bass coming out from rear....then can listen the songs more clearly and the sound stage much better.

but sometimes, listening to different song got different tuning....

eg: if i tune nicely to listen soft type (oldies, love songs) then when i switch to techno/rock....it doesnt suit.....

mayb i need to tune until generally can support all range of songs

What are your HPF and LPF settings??

Am using Eton RS 160...i did set at 63hz sometimes.....

You can run full pass if you have an enclosure for your mid/woofer.

The supplied passive crossover with your component set basically handles the crossover points for your tweeter, but only a lowpass (to prevent it from playing gradually all the way up above, i.e 5,000-6,000Hz) for the mid/woofer.

Therefore, like what some of the forumers here have pointed out, you still need a high pass (to prevent it from playing gradually below a certain level that you set) for the mid/woofer, or else it could play all the way down and damage the drivers if you play really insanely loud (there is difference tolerance level from different speaker drivers). If you do not play very loud, then it it fine but many people high pass to clean up the bass so that the midrange (or the part where vocals/voices are prominent) improves.

However, if you find that you have mount or install the mid/woofer properly, it can be set lower, so that it can play more lows without being muddled or cover up the midrange frequencies too much. You will also notice that if you use better cabling or better amplification, your mids behave differently as well.

So, there are quite a few factors involved when you decide on the high pass point for your mid/woofer. Perhaps, if you are in the stage of learning, you can just set it at 80Hz and bring it up gradually to 100Hz or down to 60Hz... yes, I repeat, gradually... to see which one sounds best to you. Normally, based on years and years of experimenting, you will NEVER find a sweet spot where everything sounds excellent (i.e just enough midbass, just enough clarity on the mids and mid-highs). Usually, something has to be given up for another.

Before you go into tuning, things will be much easier when:
1) Your install is excellent ichiban!! (30-50 bucks installs just would not be sufficient, honestly)
2) Your cabling is no sub-standard
3) Your amp gives enough juice to your speaker and your amp is not starved of power (suppy)

thanks for ur reply, really long essay. can understand 50% of it only.....still new....

lol... mnkh27 did a very good explanation already. Perhaps u need to understand more about FR aka frequency response of all the drivers. Rough example will be

Sub: freq played should be 80hz and below with steep slope like 18db or 24db so that ur bass is clean

Midrange: any freq from 80hz or 63hz all the way up to ur tweeter freq eg 4000hz

tweeter: from 4000 onwards

For passive setup, the frequency cut off point has been set via ur passive cross-over. So, for your case, just need to set the HPF for the midbass to play. What mnkh27 is trying to tell is that freq cut off point can be adjusted according to drivers ability. However also very much depends on the installation.

i knew, he did vy well, can see his effort in his essay...haha. i got few further question. as u said on Sub, midrange and tweeter:

what should i set for
1) LPF - ? (for sub)
2) HPF - ? (for component set)

for the time being....i just set in between only for both ....which i think sound better....

essay pulak... you want essay ah, gimme your email!! or read my blog.

ck_tan82@hotmail.com

I thought i replied u already

LPF on sub from 80hz all the way down (63 or 50)

HPF: from 80hz all the way up (100 etc)

ok. i ll try this out. let u guys know the result

The spec sheet above is based on the SPX-F17T components. Currently I've set HPF 63Hz@24db at my HU, amp x-over set to Off.

Based on the spec sheet, the FR range is 30Hz - 35,000 Hz. Is it safe to say that I could set my HPF anywhere around 30Hz@24db? I don't dare to crank up the volume loud to test that HPF settings, who knows might damage my mids..besides that, my front doors are all deadened and sealed, midbass speakers are solid mounted..

Anyone care to give me tips on my doubts?

what are the different betwen lpf hpf full and other thing bass boost and subwoofer level on the amp try to play with my brother amp

This post has been edited by grinders: May 10 2011, 01:33 AM

taaron i think u can try lower than 63, those mids are quite good, plus your door is well prepped already. try la 55 or 50 or 45 and see how it goes on high volume...

grinders set to hpf when u are using the amp formidrange/tweeter or component set
set to lpf when using amp for sub
set to full when using 6x9 coaxial, the 2 way 3 way type sepakers
bass boost is like an eq, but fixed frequency, like 80hz boost your sub if u need, if not dont boost
sub level: not sure about this, could be the same as bass boost
gain level: this is important, its like a volume knob but cant put so high, can damage your speakers.

if ur door are well built, i will cross it at 50/63hz 6db slope......

u need to blend ur mid and sub, while most 12db or above sucks.....
cross it higher, make the slope lower, blend better