I used to have the Sigma 10-20mm. I can like/dislike the distortion. But it's just not sharp even if you use small apertures.

I am not judging the sharpness if I zoom in close to the photo. But by just fitting it onto my 15.4" laptop, it just looks not sharp.

Now that I replaced it with a Tokina 12-24mm, I have no regrets.

Well... maybe one... I want Tokina's 11-16mm f/2.8!

D60 BLACK GOLD edition in US.













Source: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat...77&changemode=1

and

http://nikonrumors.com/

' or 1=1 --,

For your parkour shots, you should try and experiment with stroboscopic flash to create motion.

Something like this?



Just my 2 cents.

Get the members from the D3/300/700 thread to organize an outing with parkour as the theme and stroboscopic flash technique shots.

With the available gears and theme, I am pretty sure, it'd be a fun outing.

This post has been edited by calvin_gsc: Nov 3 2008, 01:59 PM

What sort of comparison you look for? You could just google it you know...

Specs wise here... http://www.lnkr.net/archives/rosh/gadgets/...anon-1000d/1716

Beginners who wants to try to use MANUAL and don't know what settings to use to get the right exposure...

The Electronic analog exposure display is your friend!

(#7)


(#6)


Image Source: http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond60/page5.asp

Adjust your aperture and shutter speed to whatever you want, but make sure the electronic meter is always at 0 or close to 0. This would ensure a "exposed" photo.

Note: "properly exposed" = not guaranteed perfect exposure

Practice makes perfect! And experience beats it all!

SB-900 might be an overkill for a Nikon D40. The flash is way too big for the camera, even the SB-800 is considered big. SB-400/600 is just perfect. But Sb-400 is not versatile enough. So my vote goes to SB-600. This is because with a larger flash, your camera balance will be off. And you will feel the flash is causing the camera to tilt. This is just my experience of SB-800 on D40.

You can tell which one is the SB-900.

Source: Strobist.com

SB-900 on D40




SB-900 screen also looks almost bigger than D40 screen.


More photos here: http://flickr.com/photos/ivanmarkchang/set...57607502589730/

SB-800 on D40

Source: http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidhobby/2688241490/sizes/m/

SB-600 on D40

Source: http://picasaweb.google.com/jerryhung/Niko...691415725543490

SB-600 with Lightsphere on D40

Source: http://www.flickr.com/groups/d40slr/discus...57604425585056/

This post has been edited by calvin_gsc: Dec 15 2008, 01:07 AM

Just to share. Nikon Malaysia wont clean dust in viewfinder for free. To clean viewfinder very cumbersome, have to take camera apart. I think they quoted me RM150 last time.

This post has been edited by calvin_gsc: Dec 18 2008, 11:23 AM

Sensor cleaning is best with blower. Once got "stain" on sensor, never attempt to clean yourself.

Do you have this camera already?

If you do, I suggest reading the manual.

Otherwise... please.... Go through this first: D90 Digitutor

I know you asked for D60, but the D60 Digitutor doesn't cover PSAM modes. So, go to the D90 Digitutor and learn about what PSAM modes are for.

Next, to find out more about the D60 as a whole, please go to D60 Digitutor

Both Digitutors are created by Nikon and is meant for beginners to learn more about the camera. They are very interactive and they have videos to show you what they are talking about. So, check them out!

You don't need a pro to explain, you just need to do your homework. This way you can learn more.

This post has been edited by calvin_gsc: Jan 24 2009, 10:08 AM

Well, it's not a must, but it's good practice. the worst case scenario is that you lens is scratched and decreases its resale value.

I think big number of people uses blower to clean their dslr, from body to lens. It's the best method for removing loose dust.

I use the ever famous Giottos Rocket Air Blower

---

Added on January 24, 2009, 1:54 pmA simple search on Amazon.co.uk shows that the SB-600 costs £167.38

Why don't you use internet resources? Why ask UK price in a Malaysian forum?

This post has been edited by calvin_gsc: Jan 24 2009, 01:54 PM

here's a list of more common/reputable shops that I have heard off.

1. Photo Selangor - Pertama Complex
2. Rimpai Mewah at S&M Complex (adjacent to Kota Raya)
3. YS photo at SS2
4. leos com-Ampang Park, pro-film is quite cheap
5. digicolor- Mutiara Shopping Complex, Lot 1-18, Jalan Ipoh, got lots of alternative cheap stuff from China
6. JJ- Shaw Parade, Pudu, got some second hand equipment
7. YL- Desmond's shop at Pudu Plaza more pro accessories
8. Keat Camera @ Pudu KL more pro accessories
9. Tarita - Sg. Wang
10. J-One - Amcorp Mall, PJ focus Nikon and Canon dslr, less accessories. But have HOYA filters.

Contact No.:


The ones in bold are the ones I usually visit. Because they are definitely reputable as their main focus is on dslr equipment only.

Different filter size, brand, range/model and type yields different price. So, call and ask those shops for pricing.

A polarizing filter serves a different purpose from a UV filter. Please read this. It had extremely detailed information on various filters.

The seller is probably trying to "chop/potong" you since you're new to dslr photography.

If you just wanna protect your lens, a UV/Clear filter will suffice.

This post has been edited by calvin_gsc: Jan 24 2009, 11:12 PM

Well, it's definitely not an easy process. It's not a waste of time if you know what you want and what you're doing. Some lenses due to back focusing/ front focusing issues, people would use MF to get more accurate shots.

It varies with individual. But the general consensus is that more people MF on fixed prime lenses than tele lenses.

Yeah, it's true that the D80 has been discontinued. It depends on your luck whether the retailers have leftover stock.

get the SB-800 and you'd be fine.

To make it easy, you could just google for both specs and compare. You'd know the SB-800 will have the better hand.

If they aren't vastly different, I guess everyone would have opt for the Nissin, right?

When it comes to flash, you pay for what you get. There is no escape.

So, if you have the budget, don't look back, just get the Nikon. If no budget, I guess you don't have a choice.

But he already said that he set it to +5.0 wor. Then how can it be at -5.0?

Better optics and VR.

The 18-135mm lens is soft at the tele end.

The above are the only lenses

Source: http://www.tamron.com/about/updates_nikon.asp

For Sigma lenses in the model name, you will see the abbreviation HSM (Hyper-Sonic Motor)

Not sure about Tokina's convention. But if not mistaken, only the 12-24mm f/4, AT-X 124 PRO DX II has a built-in AF motor drive.

AF-I is An autofocus lens with an Integrated, coreless focus motor (1992). All AF-I lenses are D-type, but some older bodies can't autofocus with them (N60, N8008). All AF-I lenses has been replaced by AF-S technology which implements the silent wave motor.

Source: http://www.bythom.com/lensacronyms.htm