well i havnt try on permanon product yet, nw still using meguiar products. never done clay be4 as i gt my car less than a month, juz clean everyweek with meguiars shampoo and wax for once, now the wax is worn out, when raining u feel like no wax apply.

so i wanted to try permonan platinum product, seems like it will last longer than waxing, any ideas guys?

Was going to get it, luckily no stocks here so i got the Turtle Wax Platinum Ultra Gloss instead

i was thinking could clay bar get rid of those?

well i'try to clay bar it first to see what is the outcomes. what should i use for as lubricant during claying?

car shampoo has worked for me for many years. even if I use QD, i'll dilute it 1:4

Most QDs are designed to be use as clay lubes, shampoos are not. Which is better? Then I'd say QD. But hey....I'm a little OCD so I like to use dedicated products for their intended use. Some manufacturers even say can use water for their clay, but I'd still use a QD. My personal experience, I had one clay (by Polyglaze) been 'destroyed' when using it with a shampoo mix whereas it was fine when I used it with a QD. But, saying that, I also had other clays that are not effected when using shampoo. So, until I figure this thing out, I'm sticking with QD as clay lube.

well as far as water as base of clay lubs, so far for my experience no problem. but then again this is on the car body not the windshield. Ive also tried using car shampoo as the base but i still find water which is more effective. the shampoo makes the surface to smooth at times the clay find it hard to have s proper grasp of the surface to remove the grims. wherelse on water based, its just nice to give the surface a little flow just enough for the clay to get the grims out. this just my personal opinion/experience

well guys thanks for the wonderful thoughts and suggestion, im goinna give my windshield a go this weekend and hopeful it turns out well.

If both of you are OCD, then please use "Clay Lube"... not QD. 

question: are you a Final fantasy fan or just into paleontology ?

Anyone know where can i get "Mothers" Product? Bought a carnauba wax and it's damn easy to apply and buff. Thinking of getting their compound and polish material as well.

I'm planning to buy some stuff from Amazon after conversion + shipping charges it's about the same with the price here. Anyone want to join me for a bigger bulk and cheaper price? We will share the shipping cost.

Anyone here invested in a cordless impact driver and fit in bosch polishing pads on them? I'm thinking of getting one now.. The B&D polisher doesn't serve the purpose. Only can use them when I'm back in my hometown. Now thinking of a cordless impact driver to assist me in my detailing activities.

Still working on it. Work commitments + cuti2 balik kampung + son in ward + school starting = my life story    

It's nothing serious but thanks for the concerns Quazacolt.

Hi, any advise on paint prep for new car?
Couldn't afford coating but I have opti-seal here with me.

send for outside polish, then opti-seal with regular ONR wash. Is it enough ? (without claying) ><

polish at home okay ah ? but only using hand and noobie skill la 

been searching around but only saw polishing work with a rotary >< any polishing by hand guide around ? which polish is suitable for beginner ?

Help me in detailing my exhaust from black to shiny... method and whats required

Example? Hehe excuse my noobness.

I hope you're talking about your stainless steel exhaust tips and hopefully it can be remove/re-install. Or else it's going to be a little tricky.
But basically,
- 1st: you need to clean it...I mean really clean it. If you don't have any All Purpose Cleaner or Degreaser, use dish washing liquid with a soft cloth.
- 2nd: there would be lots of caked-in carbon deposit. So you'd need something to clean that also. Use Diesel.
- 3rd: Claying time - just get yourself the cheapest clay you can find. It's going to be a use-and-throw-away thingy so it doesn't matter what clay you use.
- 4th: Find yourself a metal polish. Autosol is fine. Polish using a cotton cloth.
- 5th: At this time the exhaust would look shiny but you might see some scratch/swirls/spider-web-like finish. Change to a soft microfiber cloth and keep on polishing, but this time ever so lightly.

Depending on the level of defects, the above might take a few minutes to hours. If it's taking too long, don't worry. If you can see improvements then you're on the right track. If not....errr...it might be a good idea to get a few pictures and post it up here and let see what you're dealing with...hehehe..

My steps are always OCD...hahahah. Anyway, that only apply to *very* neglected ones (something like never-been-cleaned before for years). You might be able to skip one or two steps if you've been maintaining/cleaning it regularly.

Oh...one more thing I forgot to mention. After all the polishings and restoring 'back to new', I suggest also find a product to seal it with. Normal wax/sealant would do but it won't last for long as the exhaust would be exposed to high heat. A durable coating would be great but you'd need to get a whole bottle just to coat that *small* thing that would most probably need around one or two drops. I haven't tried any sealants for metal so can't really make any suggestion. Maybe somebody else can chime in on this.

I want to clean off the water spots from my car windows & side mirrors because whenever it rains it tends to screw up my vision, making it much harder to see.

I tried using Scotch Brite with glass cleaner, slowly scrubbing in a circular motion, now the water doesn't 'clump' together on the spot where I scrubbed. Previously it was like this -

Noted. I used a small force, so no swirls observed after I done a part of the window. Was thinking of finding those powerballs or whatever they call those to attach to a drill to polish the glass, because apparently the water stains have been there for a while. Any tips on that?