That was what I thot also since my car can pass thru a single lane jump. But when I tried my car just keep somersaulting, the rear end keep jump up also.

my boss just informed me that she does not need me to go KL, wth

Yeah, so sorry abt it guys

small diameter MS PRO cars comes with 3.5:1 gear also. Btw which parts comes with 40mm screws? Thx ^^

---

Added on February 20, 2009, 10:52 amUpcoming topic: Explaination (using concept of levers) on tilt cornering and relationship between downthrust and roller height. Stay tuned

This post has been edited by 13lack.12ose: Feb 20 2009, 10:52 AM

Relationship between Roller Height and Downthrust



Red: Direction of the force applied or Line of Centre of Gravity (CG Line)
Blue: Resistance due to roller contact
Green: Lift/Downnthrust due to roller height

Explanation:
1. The car moves forward, with red denoting the line of centre of gravity (CG line) which the forward moving force acts upon the car. However there will be resistance that prevents the car from moving forward freely. In this case, we are considering the friction due to roller contact on the walls, denoted by blue.

2. Due to the relative position of the roller height and the CG line, there will be a passive lift or downforce acting on the car. If the roller is above the line, there will be lift. If the roller is below the line, there will be downthrust.

The significance is that:
1. The further away the roller is placed from the line of centre of gravity, the less stable and slower will be the car.
2. The higher the roller, the greater passive lift experienced.
3. The lower the roller, the greater the passive downforce experienced (i.e you can increase the downforce on the car without having to increase the front angle)

This is why in my previous post I advocated placing the main rollers as near the CG line as possible, best would be slightly above the CG line so that there will not be energy wasted trying to balance the car from the unneccesary lift or downforce, as well as sideway balance, leading to a faster setting. Second, this will allow for the balancing roller to be placed at the bottom as low as possible for quick recovery during jumps and a faster and more stable tilt cornering.

As usual, do discuss and point out if my concept needs amendments.

This post has been edited by 13lack.12ose: Feb 20 2009, 10:03 PM

@TamiyaAye: Thank you for the rating . The 0.5 that you deducted I suppose is because of my lousy photoshop skills? lol

Anw, rollers with ball bearings are good. The variable would be how high you set the rollers, how wide you set the rollers, how long you set your rollers, how many rollers you intend to use, the angle and the diameter of your rollers. Browse a few pages back you'd be able to find some concepts that were being discussed on these.

I think roller setting and brakes are more important factors in crossing the bridge than weight.

@David: Thx for the pics. The Pink Thunder Shot is really eye catching. The next time there is a trip to KL die die must tag along

Also the 13mm ball bearing as weights u mentioned is quite common amongst many cars I've seen for the past 2 competitions. Each pair of 13mm weighs 3 grams.

@B-Mecha: No worries mate about the broken front. You can always replace it with reinforced NO2 solded separately. And yes from what I've learnt 620 bearings are the best around. I've yet to get mine T.T

lol nice drawing there

@tamiya aye: saw ur query last night before the site was down. I try to set my car according to official rules so 3 sets of rollers, in my case 2 sets in front. My shadow fury managed to clear the bridge with hyper dash pro so I suppose it's stable enuff

@b-mecha: you can view thread 451 on page 23. The tips on roller height are there.

@david n tmy kia: see u guys on the 15th

This post has been edited by 13lack.12ose: Feb 25 2009, 08:43 PM

yummy ^^

Saw from Tamiya USA they will be a new part (small diameter off-set tread tyres) as well.

This spacer is used to lock the nut in place. Without it the nut will become loose due to the vibration etc etc

Started back in 1997 when I was 14. The trophies are still with me

Haha looks like we all are from the same era when we started playing Tamiya ^^

Still remember a race where my whole toolbox got stolen >.<

IMBA

Looking forward to the pics

@David: Thx for uploading the pics. Am I correct to say that u used off-set tyres in front so that the wheel tread is pointed towards the centre? Also where can I get the 2 plastic parts under the front bumper. Never seen it b4. Thx ^^

@Sonic_cd: The car u showed is rayhawk gamma. I still have a mint one inside my store room

I see I see. But wouldn't offset for both front and back produce a faster cornering? Cuz I think the tyre width for front and rear is different.

We'll be able to discuss more on the 15th

Yeah btw Eelen that stud David mentioned which dangun part has it? Cuz it feels good

SF-02 in the making as well

Arh I see. Cuz the rear tyres are softer as well if I am nt wrong =).

Just finished sanding down my reinforced N02. Tired but worthy work

LOL Sure thing! I've found clear plastic plates today as well. Will be using them under the chassis after hollowing out my chassis.

Btw B-Mecha thx for da pics. Think we can have a good discussion on the winning settings ^^

Taking a break frm tamiya now. Time to arrow people with POTM