A small question.

Recently the occurance of 2nd gear jerk happened very frequently. It can be stopped by pull-over & restarting the engine. There're 2 ocurance of startup glitch which I have to turn the key longer to start the car. but not till the extend that I need to crank several time.

I've drove the car straight to service center & also Service dealer when the problem occured & they've told me.... that this kind of jerk although is "undesireable", it's "normal"......and unfortunately the have no solution yet for this problem????

So far I've claimed a brake pedal, brake switch & TDC sensor. The coil is ok according to them. Some senior technical staff even went to the Service Dealer & says all technical data shows no problem on my car.

Anything that I've missed?

And also I've claimed several units of Power Window Switch due to sporadic malfunction. When a new units installed the can last for several months before the swtich start to fail again.

Is the PW switch that fragile.....? I do suspect the vibration on the speaker caused the problem....

This post has been edited by navigator: Aug 24 2008, 11:48 AM

Thanks, I've already read all those article & I do think the only 3 things havent tried is ECU, wirings & throttle body.

The PW switched is new for now as warranty claim. It'll take sometime IF it wants to fail again. Someone posted the switch problem on savoc.net & I think it's due to speaker vibration.

The Sec13 PJ SC is less than helpful. I'm not willing to go back as after several attempt they still cannot give me a conclusion or even try to at least swap some parts to try except the brake pedal.

The inefficient procedure & "blame-on-customer" attitude pissed me off for this particular SC. They even asked me to warm up the car for 10mins.....I did & it failed.


Any SC that is good in this jerking problem?

The car still under warranty so shouldn't be a problem. the sensor is not dirty (no rust on it's tip surface) when removed.

I'm not convinced as a connection problem as they've also replaced the blue shunt cable along with the sensor.... I've seen they connect the cable using a contraction tube (the tube holds the cable when heated, not sure what's it's name.)

Could it be a faulty sonsor again..? or as they said, savvy will jerk like this sporadically?????

yesterday I tried to rearrange most of the reacheable conenctions & cabling. See if it helps....

They used a lighter to heat that thing up....

after rearrange cabling so far no recurrances.

I also sent a complaint letter regarding my dissatisfaction to Sec13 SC to i-care.

They blamed me for NOT-WARMING-UP-MY-CAR + Send to Service dealer to service~!

Good question.

The Service Advisor at Sec13 SC. However, as he's senior staff here. I will not disclose his name for now. Unles a lot of ppl demanding it...

My jerking problem start again....

Means the cable re-arrangement don't work.

both SC & dealer said there's no error recorded and yet all value very stable.

One of the Senior technical support said all savvy actually suffering from the problem and the jerk is not like TDC, coil & TB.

it's just that a minor power loss between 1000 to 2000rpm sporadically after an engine start. My actually so called hard to start is just I need to turn the key longer than usual & not the extend that need several crank.

They blamed on the ECU or it's relavant engine start initialization SW which is yet to solve.

Now my question is, ARE THESE PPL TALKING TRUTH????

My jerking is not that bad. just it's a bit shaky shake when accelerating lelow 2000rpm. Something like out-of-tuned 130Y..... but stil not that serious...

Restart car then problem solved.

When I doubt SC's comment, they brought me another Savvy which supposedly belongs to The Branch Manager. I'm not convinced & they bring me the i-care car....They're all with this kinda shaky feel like my car but one thing is worse than mine is restart did not solve the problem for those car and the jerk is persistant.....

Well....I'll try to do a TB clean on next service. At this moment I just used a sealant to seal the "suspected" wirings. See if it happens again.

They said Change ECU is pointless as theer's no new revision nor new softwaer to solve the prob.

They also pointed out Valve seat in the engine itself might be a problem as Proton never clean the protective wax on the seat when manufacturing the car. This problem do not occure on newer batch of savvy.

They also said that only frequent user such as sales person or someone lked to travel with his car will noticed that as the problem is very sporadic.

Let's try to ask then clean the TB before other speculation....

btw, how much is Renautech to clean the TB??? Can they read any hidden troublecode? T shaped PDT2000 cannot read hidden code while nre PDT2000Plus used by my Service Daeler can somehow read hidden codes based on my previous experience.

I do not wish to modify the TDC sensor.....coz they're new design....

Also if TDC sensor fault wil have some sort of trouble code right? My previous sensor do have such error + Brake switch error. But this time w/o error....

This post has been edited by navigator: Sep 3 2008, 07:21 AM

My dealer will clean the TB for me tomorrow.

According to his statement, the TDC sensor and all other engine sensor reading is within spec even when driving....

So let's see if he's assumption is true...

My car's an AMT.... i dare not do it myself given that I seen how messy it is when dealing with TDC sensor beside the pump

My SD don wanna do so coz they hv to charge me for the cleaning initially..... I'm not going back to the SD for sure.

It looks promising now, but one thing funny is it cannot start initially after the TB is cleaned... only full throttle start works at that initial start.

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Added on September 7, 2008, 9:04 amif anyone say this infront of me i sure tarok him kau kau.

This post has been edited by navigator: Sep 7 2008, 09:04 AM

The car jerk again....aih...

I already emailed renautech to see if I can get something from him.

Will update again

did any of you encountered this after changed most of the parts???

A power loss below 2000rpm & feels like a minor jerk but not stalling.

Happens between engine startups. means also if I pull over & restart engine the problem gone.

Just wonder...how many ppl got this problem?

They insisted that they've rearranged the cables...... & cleaned them....

I think they wont do soldering like renautech lah...that one hv to wait till warranty gone then send to ranautech....

I got reply from renautech already....

Their reply to me is same to proton...

It's not sensor related & they do not have a solution yet either......

But differ from what proton says is to renautech, this happened to AMT only while proton says both transmission will have same problem.....

They also insist that the startup is not "hard to start" where the car crank several time & still cannot start....

ah...maybe...proton talkingthe truth, D4F is having this problem.....

Even reputable Renautech already said so...what else can I say...all sensor value no problem.....

lemme know for any response by him.

Just mention jerk at 20km/h, 2nd gear...

It's confirmed that my car do not have hard to start problem, just I oversensitive....

As convinced by not only proton, but Renautech as well. it's not

It's a logic error on AMT transmission.

if TDC sensor the car will feel like stalling as they said while my car is not.

The description matched completely with both proton & renautech.

I'm now using a proton modified TDC sensor FYI....

This post has been edited by navigator: Sep 16 2008, 10:36 PM

My so called proton mod is actually change the shunt cable & blue colored TDC sensor。

the mod is not from renautech but as they mentioned, the problem I experience is due to AMT & not engine.

The only temporary solution for now is to do AMT teaching once it's happened.

So as for now after AMT teaching it's all ok.

Can anyone with AMT transmission test this for me?

Try to turn the key to ON while pressing the brake pedal & start the car to see if it jerks?

Then try not to press the brake pedal while turn the key to ON & start the car.

Just realize my car have such behavior where AMT 2nd gear jerk occur when I turn the key ON while accidentally pressed the brake pedal. Maintained a while NOT to press brake pedal when turn on the key for 2 weeks already since my last post & no jerk already...However my AMT warning flashed twice for this period when I stopped at traffic light... According to SC the error is due to some wirings short circuit or disconnected. however since it doesn't interfere with the car's operation + it lit for approx 5 seconds only, so far no action done except resetting the error code....

I apply engine brake all the time coz scare something might happen IF the parking brake failed.... So basically I need to put it from 1/D to N before I start my car and I need to depress the brake pedal to engage the gear.

Impending or not, a lot of things had been done and even Renautech said this problem has no cure.....

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Added on September 29, 2008, 3:19 pmI do put it to N whenever the car is not running. So I don't think that might be the case.

From my understanding, the clutch is actuated by the TCU programming & not by the brake pedal even though there's a brake switch governing the pedal position......

If not imagine you have to control the brake to start going on traffic light......

This post has been edited by navigator: Sep 29 2008, 03:22 PM

Yes, it's normal。。。。