http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/lis...ay/kit85001.htm
I notice the decal for the mono-eye is pinkish... how do i color the mono-eye red while maintaining its transparency?
Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, where the 'deja-vu are tradition in here
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Jul 21 2009, 10:32 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
326 posts Joined: Sep 2005 From: Deldrimor Warcamp |
I just bought my first MG, a Zaku Minelayer and plan to paint it using Tamiya Spray Paint. I'm having trouble figuring out the right color to use for the Zaku Light Green parts. Any recommendation?
http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/lis...ay/kit85001.htm I notice the decal for the mono-eye is pinkish... how do i color the mono-eye red while maintaining its transparency? |
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Jul 22 2009, 10:02 PM
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#2
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326 posts Joined: Sep 2005 From: Deldrimor Warcamp |
QUOTE(300078 @ Jul 22 2009, 06:52 PM) for zaku i think u just used sand paper to sand the surface and then go on with a layer of Flat Topcoat will even look better than the Tamiya Spray can color! Belief me you will be surprise of how accurate the colors are for those mono-eye frm OYW. No need glossy green color tat will spoil the theme. what grade of sandpaper to use? |
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Aug 4 2009, 09:22 PM
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#3
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326 posts Joined: Sep 2005 From: Deldrimor Warcamp |
QUOTE(300078 @ Jul 22 2009, 10:34 PM) since u ask here... just buy those grade at least 1000 or more... it will help u kill off the glossy plastic color of the kit and make the overall color dull. Should I assemble the model before doing the painting/sanding/coating or do those 1st before assembling?How to paint the mini figurine with gundam markers? They are so tiny Any idea where to get Gundam Color Spray like the one in the attachment? can't seem to find them in the trade forum. Attached image(s) |
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Aug 4 2009, 10:52 PM
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#4
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326 posts Joined: Sep 2005 From: Deldrimor Warcamp |
QUOTE(inquisytor @ Aug 4 2009, 09:55 PM) If Vince sees this ... i think he gonna blow his mind Thanks for the tips. I did do some research before posting... however what I found sorta confused me. Some tutorials actually assembles everything before spraying. Some of them remove all the parts from the sprue and sprays them individually... and one of them actually sprayed on the sprue itself These question has been ask over and over again. There's like tons and millions of step by step tutorials out there on the net for you to see first before asking question. THere's even videos on youtube showing you how to build your gundam step by step, from removing part from sprues all the way to painting / airbrushing and finishing. Sumtimes it's not that people dun want to teach, but you should atleast do some reseach before asking basic question. Question 1 : You can find the answer by doing a little research. Question 2 : You can "squeeze" some of the paint out of the marker on to a flat palette. Do this by pressing the head a few times on to the palette, it will release the paint slowly. then use a 00 / 000 brush to paint. Well, technically, you will be painting with brush and not the marker Question 3 : http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/392450 I'm planning to use spray cans to color the model. I have tried looking in some shops listed in that URL but they don't carry spray cans in their inventory. So just wanna find out if anyone knows their availability before making my next trip. |
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Aug 5 2009, 10:59 AM
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#5
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326 posts Joined: Sep 2005 From: Deldrimor Warcamp |
QUOTE(inquisytor @ Aug 5 2009, 12:19 AM) Well basically, modelling is like painting. There's no right or wrong way of doing it. In the end it's all aboutthe out come. You can try doing as per the tutorials you found first. Then find the way that best suits you. You may even develop a method of your own. Alot of people out there that post all these tutorial discover all the different method of modelling through trial and error. And once they found something useful they post it up to share. Every method you see has it's own advantage. But none is right niether is wrong. LoL, being a gun-pla noob.. never thought of assembling and studying the model first.. If I were to tell you then i say Assemble>>Study>>disassemble>>paint>>reassemble. That's how I do it atleast. And I find it to my liking Spray can - BTS, Time machine Endah Parade , Glory Enterprise (Aunt Lenny) Fraser Business park, Hobby HQ Taman Putra, AF Hobby XL-Shop All the above shops carry spray can. Outside KL I'm not sure (I'm from KL Gonna try out my luck in berjaya timesquare. |
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Aug 18 2009, 11:49 PM
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#6
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326 posts Joined: Sep 2005 From: Deldrimor Warcamp |
Is it possible to do shading with tamiya weathering master set or Gundam weathering markers?
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Aug 19 2009, 07:04 PM
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#7
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326 posts Joined: Sep 2005 From: Deldrimor Warcamp |
Do you have any reference sites for that technique?
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Sep 20 2009, 09:01 AM
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#8
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326 posts Joined: Sep 2005 From: Deldrimor Warcamp |
Just finish assembling my firsy Gunpla, the Zaku Minelayer. Now I'm in the process of disassembling for spray painting. Hope i dun murder my Zaku
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « After painting, how long should I leave it to dry before decaling & weathering? Should I reassemble to apply decal, weathering, topcoating or do those 1st before reassembling? |
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Oct 13 2009, 09:09 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
326 posts Joined: Sep 2005 From: Deldrimor Warcamp |
anywhere provide airbrush rental facility in klang valley? aerosol paint cans are damn expensive
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Oct 23 2009, 12:22 PM
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#10
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326 posts Joined: Sep 2005 From: Deldrimor Warcamp |
What is the difference between mark softer and mark setter?
Can I apply waterslide decal on a surface which is painted with matte color without spraying a layer of gloss coat first? This post has been edited by Haneda: Oct 23 2009, 12:26 PM |
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Oct 24 2009, 08:38 AM
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#11
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326 posts Joined: Sep 2005 From: Deldrimor Warcamp |
QUOTE(rayloke @ Oct 23 2009, 01:32 PM) mark setter n mark softer both has some ability to melt decal. Mark setter does have some glue-like thing in it. So mark setter should apply on the surface of the kit, to let the decal sit on it. After that, u can apply some mark softer on top of the decal, to soften/melt it a little, so the decal will adjust itself to tightly stick on the plastic surface.. Will it be hard to reposition the decal nicely then after applying mark setter on the surface? Since it melts + have glue-like substance in it. By using both mark setter and softer, will it help to prevent silvering and air bubbles?yes. but with more uneven surface, the risk of having air trapped in between the decal n plastic surface is higher, hence more dangerous coz decal might fall off (not stick nicely, too much air in between), or silvering (decal edge not sticking tight to surface). hence normally perfectionist will make the surfce smooth n clean first, before applying decal. |
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Oct 25 2009, 11:26 PM
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#12
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326 posts Joined: Sep 2005 From: Deldrimor Warcamp |
haha, i guess i'll stick with just mark softer and see how it goes.
BTW, how do i mask a curved area for painting? eg. The heat hawk's blade ![]() |
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Oct 26 2009, 06:18 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
326 posts Joined: Sep 2005 From: Deldrimor Warcamp |
QUOTE(rayloke @ Oct 26 2009, 01:02 AM) draw a line using pencil or such, then create a panel line. after colored the first color, put a masking tape on top, lightly press with something not-too-sharp, like toothpick, then cut along the panel line. what if i don't plan to panel line that part of the heat hawk blade? What type of tapes do u recommend for this... I have both tamiya and scotch tape in my inventory.To do panel line before coloring has 2 functions: 1. to add u cutting the masking tape 2. do panel line before coloring means u have time to correct any mistakes 3. although u might cut the masking tape according to the panel line, there's still a chance of imperfect masking. The good thing is, most imperfection would appear "in" the panel line, later u can just ink the panel n cover up any mistakes. |
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Nov 28 2009, 10:50 AM
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#14
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Junior Member
326 posts Joined: Sep 2005 From: Deldrimor Warcamp |
After using mr.color flat topcoat... i noticed white marks around my decals and white spots all over my model
![]() How to get rid of them without spoiling my paintwork? |
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Nov 28 2009, 02:37 PM
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#15
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326 posts Joined: Sep 2005 From: Deldrimor Warcamp |
QUOTE(zieraq @ Nov 28 2009, 11:57 AM) Those are not silvering... i believe those are glue substance from the decal? Anyway.. I tried this solution posted in dannychoo. My Webpage use cotton bud... dip into solution, remove access liquid with a tissue... then brush the cotton bud over affected area. managed to remove and it sorta enhanced the weathering effects |
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Nov 29 2009, 12:35 AM
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#16
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Junior Member
326 posts Joined: Sep 2005 From: Deldrimor Warcamp |
I used 50% thinner + 50% water.
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Dec 2 2009, 12:05 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
326 posts Joined: Sep 2005 From: Deldrimor Warcamp |
Not sure if this is the right place to ask but i need recommendation for a good airbrush/compressor set? my budget is <RM400
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Dec 4 2009, 11:01 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
326 posts Joined: Sep 2005 From: Deldrimor Warcamp |
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Dec 11 2009, 11:26 PM
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#19
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Junior Member
326 posts Joined: Sep 2005 From: Deldrimor Warcamp |
Just got an airbrush set. Apart from thinner/paint mix ratio.... I'll like to know how much paint i should mix to colour something?
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Dec 12 2009, 09:37 AM
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#20
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326 posts Joined: Sep 2005 From: Deldrimor Warcamp |
QUOTE(fyire @ Dec 12 2009, 12:01 AM) There's no real answer to this. The amount of paint to cover a particular area may differ too depending on your thinner/paint ratio, or even the color of the paint. i read somewhere to mix 7:3 paint/thinner ratio for airbrush. I'll be using gunze sangyo paint and thinner. |
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