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Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, where the 'deja-vu are tradition in here

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Haneda
post Jul 21 2009, 10:32 PM

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I just bought my first MG, a Zaku Minelayer and plan to paint it using Tamiya Spray Paint. I'm having trouble figuring out the right color to use for the Zaku Light Green parts. Any recommendation? icon_question.gif

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/lis...ay/kit85001.htm

I notice the decal for the mono-eye is pinkish... how do i color the mono-eye red while maintaining its transparency?
Haneda
post Jul 22 2009, 10:02 PM

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QUOTE(300078 @ Jul 22 2009, 06:52 PM)
for zaku i think u just used sand paper to sand the surface and then go on with a layer of Flat Topcoat will even look better than the Tamiya Spray can color! Belief me you will be surprise of how accurate the colors are for those mono-eye frm OYW. No need glossy green color tat will spoil the theme.
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what grade of sandpaper to use?
Haneda
post Aug 4 2009, 09:22 PM

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QUOTE(300078 @ Jul 22 2009, 10:34 PM)
since u ask here... just buy those grade at least 1000 or more... it will help u kill off the glossy plastic color of the kit and make the overall color dull.
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Should I assemble the model before doing the painting/sanding/coating or do those 1st before assembling?
How to paint the mini figurine with gundam markers? They are so tiny blink.gif

Any idea where to get Gundam Color Spray like the one in the attachment? can't seem to find them in the trade forum.


Attached image(s)
Attached Image
Haneda
post Aug 4 2009, 10:52 PM

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QUOTE(inquisytor @ Aug 4 2009, 09:55 PM)
If Vince sees this ... i think he gonna blow his mind  laugh.gif

These question has been ask over and over again. There's like tons and millions of step by step tutorials out there on the net for you to see first before asking question. THere's even videos on youtube showing you how to build your gundam step by step, from removing part from sprues all the way to painting / airbrushing and finishing.

Sumtimes it's not that people dun want to teach, but you should atleast do some reseach before asking basic question.

Question 1 : You can find the answer by doing a little research.

Question 2 : You can "squeeze" some of the paint out of the marker on to a flat palette. Do this by pressing the head a few times on to the palette, it will release the paint slowly. then use a 00 / 000 brush to paint. Well, technically, you will be painting with brush and not the marker  tongue.gif There's also a type of gundam marker with finer tip, but it's available in limited colors. And i think the paint type is different also.

Question 3 : http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/392450
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Thanks for the tips. I did do some research before posting... however what I found sorta confused me. Some tutorials actually assembles everything before spraying. Some of them remove all the parts from the sprue and sprays them individually... and one of them actually sprayed on the sprue itself tongue.gif Just wanna know the best way of doing it.

I'm planning to use spray cans to color the model. I have tried looking in some shops listed in that URL but they don't carry spray cans in their inventory. So just wanna find out if anyone knows their availability before making my next trip.
Haneda
post Aug 5 2009, 10:59 AM

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QUOTE(inquisytor @ Aug 5 2009, 12:19 AM)
Well basically, modelling is like painting. There's no right or wrong way of doing it. In the end it's all aboutthe out come. You can try doing as per the tutorials you found first. Then find the way that best suits you. You may even develop a method of your own. Alot of people out there that post all these tutorial discover all the different method of modelling through trial and error. And once they found something useful they post it up to share. Every method you see has it's own advantage. But none is right niether is wrong.

If I were to tell you then i say Assemble>>Study>>disassemble>>paint>>reassemble. That's how I do it atleast. And I find it to my liking smile.gif You have to try to experience to know what's best for you. Go wild  tongue.gif You will learn as you go along, sometimes even the hard way sad.gif  (like my metallic coated Nu-Gundam, after i use future floor wax as top coat only i realise that future floor wax dissolves the metallic coating cry.gif  )
Spray can -
BTS, Time machine
Endah Parade , Glory Enterprise (Aunt Lenny)
Fraser Business park, Hobby HQ
Taman Putra, AF Hobby
XL-Shop

All the above shops carry spray can. Outside KL I'm not sure (I'm from KL tongue.gif). Hobby HQ cheap but not alot, for variety go TIme Machine. Enjoy spending $$$$  biggrin.gif
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LoL, being a gun-pla noob.. never thought of assembling and studying the model first..

Gonna try out my luck in berjaya timesquare.
Haneda
post Aug 18 2009, 11:49 PM

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Is it possible to do shading with tamiya weathering master set or Gundam weathering markers?

user posted image
Haneda
post Aug 19 2009, 07:04 PM

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Do you have any reference sites for that technique?
Haneda
post Sep 20 2009, 09:01 AM

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Just finish assembling my firsy Gunpla, the Zaku Minelayer. Now I'm in the process of disassembling for spray painting. Hope i dun murder my Zaku tongue.gif

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


After painting, how long should I leave it to dry before decaling & weathering?
Should I reassemble to apply decal, weathering, topcoating or do those 1st before reassembling?
Haneda
post Oct 13 2009, 09:09 AM

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anywhere provide airbrush rental facility in klang valley? aerosol paint cans are damn expensive tongue.gif
Haneda
post Oct 23 2009, 12:22 PM

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What is the difference between mark softer and mark setter?

Can I apply waterslide decal on a surface which is painted with matte color without spraying a layer of gloss coat first?

This post has been edited by Haneda: Oct 23 2009, 12:26 PM
Haneda
post Oct 24 2009, 08:38 AM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ Oct 23 2009, 01:32 PM)
mark setter n mark softer both has some ability to melt decal. Mark setter does have some glue-like thing in it. So mark setter should apply on the surface of the kit, to let the decal sit on it. After that, u can apply some mark softer  on top of the decal, to soften/melt it a little, so the decal will adjust itself to tightly stick on the plastic surface..

yes. but with more uneven surface, the risk of having air trapped in between the decal n plastic surface is higher, hence more dangerous coz decal might fall off (not stick nicely, too much air in between), or silvering (decal edge not sticking tight to surface). hence normally perfectionist will make the surfce smooth n clean first, before applying decal.
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Will it be hard to reposition the decal nicely then after applying mark setter on the surface? Since it melts + have glue-like substance in it. By using both mark setter and softer, will it help to prevent silvering and air bubbles?
Haneda
post Oct 25 2009, 11:26 PM

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haha, i guess i'll stick with just mark softer and see how it goes.

BTW, how do i mask a curved area for painting? eg. The heat hawk's blade

user posted image

ohmy.gif
Haneda
post Oct 26 2009, 06:18 PM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ Oct 26 2009, 01:02 AM)
draw a line using pencil or such, then create a panel line. after colored the first color, put a masking tape on top, lightly press with something not-too-sharp, like toothpick, then cut along the panel line.

To do panel line before coloring has 2 functions:

1. to add u cutting the masking tape

2. do panel line before coloring means u have time to correct any mistakes

3. although u might cut the masking tape according to the panel line, there's still a chance of imperfect masking. The good thing is, most imperfection would appear "in" the panel line, later u can just ink the panel n cover up any mistakes.
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what if i don't plan to panel line that part of the heat hawk blade? What type of tapes do u recommend for this... I have both tamiya and scotch tape in my inventory.
Haneda
post Nov 28 2009, 10:50 AM

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After using mr.color flat topcoat... i noticed white marks around my decals and white spots all over my model cry.gif
user posted image

How to get rid of them without spoiling my paintwork? icon_question.gif
Haneda
post Nov 28 2009, 02:37 PM

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QUOTE(zieraq @ Nov 28 2009, 11:57 AM)
silvering & frost effect. that's a real nightmare for paintwork. I have no solution. sorry.
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Those are not silvering... i believe those are glue substance from the decal? Anyway.. I tried this solution posted in dannychoo.
My Webpage

use cotton bud... dip into solution, remove access liquid with a tissue... then brush the cotton bud over affected area.
managed to remove and it sorta enhanced the weathering effects tongue.gif

Haneda
post Nov 29 2009, 12:35 AM

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I used 50% thinner + 50% water.
Haneda
post Dec 2 2009, 12:05 AM

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Not sure if this is the right place to ask but i need recommendation for a good airbrush/compressor set? my budget is <RM400
Haneda
post Dec 4 2009, 11:01 PM

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QUOTE(carpathia @ Dec 3 2009, 09:52 PM)
i dont think u can get both at that price........
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user posted image

Is this any good?
Haneda
post Dec 11 2009, 11:26 PM

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Just got an airbrush set. Apart from thinner/paint mix ratio.... I'll like to know how much paint i should mix to colour something?
Haneda
post Dec 12 2009, 09:37 AM

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QUOTE(fyire @ Dec 12 2009, 12:01 AM)
There's no real answer to this. The amount of paint to cover a particular area may differ too depending on your thinner/paint ratio, or even the color of the paint.
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i read somewhere to mix 7:3 paint/thinner ratio for airbrush. I'll be using gunze sangyo paint and thinner.


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