you can touch up the nip part with metallic base sand and spray a glossy top coat. For other color just spray the same metallic base, sand and use semi transparent color & gloss top coat.

There are other Special Edition that doesn't come in metallic, like the MS-08 Team Camo versions, Transparent/Crystal versions etc. Some are event only like Metallic Zelgog etc they come in 1 color tone boxes.

Compressor has a needle valve on the bottom of the moisture trap, seems if i block the nozzle head and let the compressor run, and press the needle valve air comes out from i don't know where. But can still see moisture inside the trap...

Also there's another hole facing us next to the nozzle I don't know what is it for?





Comparison of Gunze gun, connectors (top left both ends) and compressor nozzle top right.

Tha compressor has an air tank. But very small one just for 8 second buffer don't know if you can count it as airtank. The compressor has auto on/off function by monitoring pressure in the airtank.

The one i used that splurts is basic dual action top loaded. The Gunze Sangyo pro-spray mk-iii i posted is the one i plan to use but connectors don't fit. I don't remember having much splurt on the Gunze last time i used it, just require more paint and u need minimum level of paint for it to work efficiently, but no problem since you can just remove the container and store it away. Also you can change paint nozzle size easily and you can move the paint nozzle closer/further from the air nozzle.

Initially wanted to get the compressor with a 1L airtank but my friend ask me to try this out. Well really didn't expect the airtank to be so small. Was thinking of getting one of those capsule shape air tank but i don't know what kind of connection it takes the connection is really a problem. Any good recommendations? The connector adapter are not cheap.

ah i'm so confused with so many connector size & shapes. How do i check what i got? any names or terms?

Do they sell decals for Patlabor? It comes with some dry transfer but like you said those warning stuff only comes in stickers.

Also what's the difference wet sand and normal sanding?

This post has been edited by advocado: Mar 19 2009, 11:44 PM

Something I wanted to ask for long time, how do toy manufacturere's paint those lively eyes? Hand paint, robot paint or use a sticker?

I think painting eye's the hardest.

How do modellers do that? Now I have no idea how to paint my 1/35 Patlabor human figures they are so small I don't have any clue how to paint other than try my best to pock a dot in the iris.

a polisher is only rm20+, just get one.

i think u panel before u top coat?

Washing method I wonder what kinda paint they use as it has to be like the marker paint easily wiped off. Assume u got the lining marker. Just use a damped piece of tissue paper and make sure u shake the pen before using.

So i'm using water based Gunze Sangyo. Is gundam marker a good option?

need more info on enamel where can i buy them?

Also when you guys mention wash, what is it?

Which page to read washing?

So most of you guys don't use water based paints? I though that's the most common...

Teo is that ur Qubeley can post bigger picture?

Dante you can just get satay stick & blutak. Works better than clips.

But seriously the satay stick i bought, when i open it i can smell the smell that makes me feel bad, not it's stinky but i think some chemical stuff they use. Need to think twice now eating Satays.

This post has been edited by advocado: Mar 24 2009, 10:52 PM

For tiny parts just sharpen a match, or some people suggest break them into 2 but this is random needs few tries to get ur perfect "brush".

matches are better than toothpick as toothpick are too smooth for the paint to stick on.

For real tiny part you can use needle dipped in paint. But getting the right mixing is crucial to get ur paint on ur model correctly.

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Added on March 25, 2009, 9:32 amFor crocodile clips some parts that has been clipped cannot be painted, also it is tight might damage ur plastic/paint job.

I use blu tak rm3 and stick them behind the model so you can spray freely. then i buy a rm1.2 styrofoam piece and stick the satay stick onto the foam to let it dry.

This post has been edited by advocado: Mar 25 2009, 09:32 AM

Right now what's the shinniest metallic color available? I've got hold of a Mr.Metal Color chrome haven't tested it yet, but the ones one Teo's Qubeley seems pretty shinny.

But doesn't look shinny enough. Maybe the camera?

BTW you should have cut some of the connectors before you spray as a whole. Maybe leave only 1 connector with the parts so you save effort on touching up once you cut them out.

I think for Mr.Metal Color there's a special primer called Mr.Base Metal or something right? Looks like silver when you spray it. Don't know if it helps the metal color paint stick.

The Gaia Bright Gold seems pretty nice. The Tester is very shinny but particles too big.

Want to know if it is ok to clean water based painted figures with water before applying top coat?

The hobbyshop in Time Square next to graffitti toys sells quite some painting stuffs, thought they mainly sell model kits. Price are quite reasonable. You can find bases, top coats, thinner, putty, markers, only thing is not too many paint choices, but those can be easily found elsewhere.

Is there any way to prevent those annoying hairline dust thing when you use Mr.Hobby Surfacer, Primer, Base?

I shaked them before use but you can see someting like eyebrow sticking onto the surface after spraying. Though can be dust off it's pretty annoying sometimes miss a few.

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Added on January 2, 2010, 12:05 amAlso how to think out stick on type stickers?

This post has been edited by advocado: Jan 2 2010, 12:05 AM

Guys roughly how much is Mr.Hobby Top Coat Gloss & Semi Gloss? Is there only 1 size? Where can i get cheapest, and have stocks? Don't wanna end up with empty trips.