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 Chubby Hamsters V7, Fun Furballs with attitudes

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TScrazymouse_yyh
post Apr 19 2008, 10:10 PM, updated 18y ago

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>< HAMSTERS ><

Old Thread Chubby Hamsters V6

^^ HAMSTERS ^^



A hamster is a rodent belonging to the subfamily Cricetinae. There are 5 types of hamsters, mainly the Syrian, Winter white dwarf, Russian campbell dwarf, Chinese hamsters and Roborovski hamsters.

SPECIES:

Syrians (Mesocricetus auratus)
They are the best known species in the pet industry. Syrians are also known as Golden Hamsters. Syrians are known as fancy hamsters of all the hamster species since they come in many colour varieties and also coat varieties... some can have long fur and some short fur, which we normally call Long Hairs and Short Hairs... also there is a fur type known as Rex.

The most important rule about Syrians is that they are SOLITARY... never house 2 together. If breeding, there is a way where you must put the female into the male's cage only when the female is on heat. It is very risky and dangerous to house 2 syrians together at any time since they are very well known to fight till death. So if you treasure the life of your hamster, never put 2 syrians together.

Syrians are large and comfortable to hold. They do make suitable pets for children but under adult supervision.

Campbell's Hamster (Phodopus campbelli)
Campbells are probably the most popular of all dwarf hamsters since they come in many colour varieties that makes them attractive. The look similar to Winter White hamsters but they are actually different subspecies. So never mixbreed them.

Campbells are dwarfs... well, small hamsters. Please do not be fooled by petshops telling you mini hamsters and giving you a weird price. Anyway, they come in different colour and patterns but to breed, one must understand that hamsters that have any white spots or markings must never be bred together coz it can produce eyeless or teethless hamsters that die later... so if you were to breed, please read up.

These dwarfs may not be suitable for young children due to some dwarfs are bitey... and because of their small size, it would be harder for children to handle. Campbells are not aggressive biters, it is just that sometimes they will bite when you make them angry or startle them from their sleep.

Winter White Hamster (Phodopus sungorus)
WW are hamsters that can change their coat colour when we minimise their daylight. Their coats will change from their normal colours to a white coat but with their dorsal stripe and side arches visible. WW come in 3 colours, which are Agouti, Sapphire and Pearl. The Pearl do not change their coat colour at all, they remain in their white coat colour for life.

WW are different from Campbells, their eyes are bigger, fur is thicker, body is more bullet shape and their ears are less conspicious. It is easy to see the difference if a Campbell and WW were side by side.

WWs are nicer to handle for they have better temperments than Campbells. WW rarely change into their winter coats in captivity, so do not force your hamster to starve and stay in a cold room... this depends on the hamster whether it wants to change or not.

Roborovski Hamster (Phodopus roborovskii)
Robos are the smallest species of hamster. Adult Robos are only 2 inches in lenght. Unlike the other dwarfs, Robos do not have a dorsal stripe and they have slightly longer legs. Easy to identify from the size and also its sandy colour and white belly.

Yes, the smallest and also the fastest, this species is very well known for being very fast and active. So they are not very handle friendly since they are likely to jump or run off your palm. Many are really attracted by the facial markings, they appear to have "eyebrows".

Robos enjoy sand baths and a wheel. Due to their small size, one would need to purchase a glass/plastic tank to house them or purchase cages with small bars like the Habitrail Mini...

Chinese Hamster (Cricetulus griseus)
The Chinese hamster is known for their mousy looks. Yes, they were discovered in China long ago. Many people would say Chinese hamsters are hard to breed in captivity and are difficult to raise. Fighting problems occur so it is best to house them seperately. The Chinese hamster is also referred to as a "mouse-like" hamster because of its short nose, thin body, stocky legs and longer tail.

They do make great pets if they are bred by a proper breeder and have been handled often when young.


VERY IMPORTANT!!!!

- Most hamsters do very well alone. Roborovski hamsters can be kept in small groups and best if single sexed but Syrians, Campbells, Winter Whites and Chinese hamsters are best kept on their own. They are always happier that way.

- Never breed hamsters if you do not have the space. Hamsters can reproduce every 20 days or so.

- Hamster fights are never fun to watch.

- Always remember to have food and water available. Never give too much fresh foods.

- The bigger the cage or tank, the more comfortable for the hamster.

- Syrians need wheels that are about 8 inches in diameter.

- NEVER keep different species in 1 cage or tank together... BIG big trouble there, may have some injuries, deaths... and possibility of mixbreeding Campbells with WW... bad idea.

- Hamsters do not have human emotion, they do not feel Love or have emotional feelings like humans. So there really is no reason to breed them unless you have a purpose as a true hamster breeder.

- Hamsters can get sick easily if given too much fresh foods like fruits and vegetables.



Anything to add in the 1st page, just PM me.


Added on February 26, 2007, 1:56 amPictures of the different hamster species with some example of a few colour varieties.

user posted image

Thank you to Reanne and |sorcerer| for their chinese hamsters and roborovski pictures.

One way to hold a hamster if it bites or to look at it's genital area clearly. Never do this for long since it is a bit uncomfortable for the hamster. Only for a short period.
user posted image

______________________________________________________________________________

Useful links (credit to Acey)The Hamster Name Generator (thanks to Gazard7)

(credit to suicidalxbliss)
user posted image

Lowyat.net Siggy (free to use, a big thank you to Hao tongue.gif ):
user posted image


Added on February 26, 2007, 9:25 pmA Basic Guide

* Hamsters are very active creatures so they do need their excercise. Naturally energetic, hamster love to run so it is best to provide a good solid wheel for them. Makre sure it is a solid wheel and not those mesh wheels since those gaps can cause injuries. Syrians should have 8 inch diameter wheels while dwarfs can have smaller ones.

* Hamsters are nocturnal, meaning they are mostly active at night. During the day, they would need some peace and quiet to sleep so it is highly recommended to place the cage or tank away from direct sunlight and provide them with a hide such as a clay flower pot or aroma burner or any solid looking hamster houses available at petshops.

* Hamsters need a layer of quality bedding in their tanks. You can always get the wood shaving variety but you would need to change the bedding often. Recommended brands would be Chipsi Classic, Chipsi Super, Delikate and Kaytee. Avoid using other brands for pine and cedar wood can cause breathing problems later in life due to the phenol oils produced by the wood. One can also use corncob bedding, wood pellets like Woody Pet or Careline wood cat litter or recycled paper bedding/litter like CareFresh or Breeder's Select/Celect.

* Hamsters love to nibble on hay and also build nest in their hide box for comfort. So providing a bit of hay is good. Any hay is suitable, as long it is fresh looking(greenish). Avoid stale hay(brownish).

* Hamsters should have a good amount of food in their food bowls. You do not need to worry about hamsters not finishing their food for they will hoard away old food to eat later. Make sure fresh foods are cleaned out of the cage or tank after 24 hours.
- Good source of fiber would be broccoli, spinach, sawi(choy sum), kangkung and water cress. Do feed fresh foods in moderation since too much can cause wet tail sickness and indigestion. A small piece of vegie or fruit is enough for 1 day.
- Sweet potato and normal potato can be given but only give cooked potatos.
- Sweet fruits and carrots can be given in small quantities every few days.
- Hard boiled eggs, scrambled eggs, cooked chicken and cooked fish can be fed.

* Have a good quality bottle for water at hand. Cheap bottles tend to leak.

* Wash the hamster cage or tank once in a week. Just wash with some mild soapy water. Clean cages and tanks prevents the risk of getting infections.

* Hamsters do not need to bath with water and soap like humans. Hamsters can clean themselves very well and they enjoy having sand baths (Chincilla or hamster sandbath) more than getting wet. A wet hamster can fall sick easily.

* Handle your hamster daily. Build a relationship with your hamster. You can hold them, talk to them and pat them. These little gestures will keep your hamster tame and friendly and of course, happy.

* Never wake up sleeping hamsters since they can startle easily and give a nasty bite to protect themselves. This is an instinct reaction so do not blame a hamster for being aggressive... they bite when there is a reason to bite.

* Always wash your hands after handling hamsters for they are still from the rodent family. Keep your self healthy for your hamster smile.gif


QUOTE(bizen @ May 30 2007, 05:26 PM)
blink.gif  I found some articles and 1 of it is about hamsters... I bought it a few years back when I am still in high school  laugh.gif ... and I would like to share it with everyone here  tongue.gif 

Here is the link:

Hamster Guide 01

Hamster Guide 02

Hamster Guide 03

Hamster Guide 04

Have fun reading  icon_rolleyes.gif
*
This post has been edited by crazymouse_yyh: Apr 24 2008, 11:01 PM
TScrazymouse_yyh
post Apr 19 2008, 10:11 PM

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Pictures of LYN members' tank setups:
user posted image

Pictures of suitable cages available in the market
user posted image

About CAGES

Choose your cage wisely.

Syrians need to be living alone, and of course being the bigger version of hamsters, they need bigger cages or tanks.

Use 2ft plastic Guppy Aquarium tanks, normally sold at RM40 to RM50 at most petshops. If a cage, never use Habitrail Mini or small 30cm cages. Invest in something bigger or a double storey cage with solid levels, such as Critter Trail.

Winter Whites and Russian Cambell Dwarf Hamsters are best housed alone or in sibling pairs. They actually do fight for territory, so always keep an eye on them. Small cages are way bad for them. A Habitrail Safari or Habitrail Playground is good for 1 hamster, if you want to keep 2, invest in 2 cages or get connections and other fun accessories by Habitrail. They have short lifespans, but are amazing pets so keep them happy. Always remember, the BIGGER, the BETTER!

Roborovskis and Chinese Dwarfs can be kept in Habitrail Minis because of their smaller bodies and slender built. 2 Robos fit well in a Habitrail Safari or Habitrail Mini. Do not use cheap local cages for them as they can get hurt and escape. Invest in a Plastic tank if you need to.

To be continued with more tank pictures by members.

This post has been edited by crazymouse_yyh: Apr 24 2008, 12:28 AM
TScrazymouse_yyh
post Apr 19 2008, 10:12 PM

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Information:

> VERY IMPORTANT! READ!!!! <


QUOTE(Reanne @ Apr 9 2007, 04:46 AM)
Steps when your ham has just given birth.

1) Put them in a quiet place of the house.
2) Do not disturb them except for refilling food and water.
3) Do not change the bedding no matter how smelly it is for the next 21 to 24 days.
4) Remove the male. If not you'll have another batch of pink wriggly things in approximately 20 days.
5) Add protein rich supplements such as:-

-Fresh veggies -> Broccoli, alfalfa sprouts, carrots, watercress, choy sum etc. Make sure washed well. Avoid onions, garlic.

-Fresh fruits -> Apple, banana, papaya, honeydew, pear, mango etc. Do not give avocado and citrus fruits.

-Other protein rich stuff -> Wheatgerm, japanese soft tofu, hard boiled egg white, crickets, mealworms etc. Do not give milo or anything containing cocoa.

6) DO NOT TOUCH THE BABIES. If you really want to peek, wait for at least 3 - 4 days, then use the end of a pencil or brush, rub it in the bedding before gently prying a little to see the pinkies.

Reasons to why most or all the babies do not survive or disappear.

1) The mom feels that she does not have enough nutrition to suckle so many babies. She will cull the weakest one first.

2) The mom feels scared or threatened, so her instinct tells her to cull the babies so that she will have the nutrition and get away in order to be able to have another batch of babies in the near future instead of just leaving the babies to the predator/threat. In the wild, if she thinks that the predator is so darn near and gonna eat her any minute, she'll make a run for it. Leaving the babies without a choice.

But as pets, they don't have that option.

3) The baby is sick/injured and/or dying. She will instinctively kill it so that it hasn't a chance to pass whatever that made it sick if it's an infectious disease, and/or eat it to regain lost nutrition.

NOTE: If the baby dies, most ham mothers WILL eat their babies because if she just leaves it, the stench of rotting flesh will attract unwanted company.

4) She's not a good mom. Though most hams are good mothers, there are bound to be a few that will not suckle their babies and probably just step on them a lot. This will need extra attention to spot so that the unattended pups can be given to a foster mother.

Do not confuse this behaviour when seen in the first few hours after birth. It's normal, especially for first time moms, to ignore their pups for the first few hours. Just leave them be and they will usually know what to do.

A few clear rules

1) All pregnant females should be given their own cage each to nurse and have the pups grow. Do ensure there is enough room for them to exercise and run about.

2) DO NOT KEEP A PAIR TOGETHER FOR THE SAKE OF HAVING A PARTNER. A single sex pair is sufficient for that purpose.

3) Syrian hamster matings MUST be supervised. Syrians are SOLITARY, meaning they cannot live together.

4) Do not breed if possible. Breeding is not a FUN thing for them. It's a burden that will shorten their lifespan, nothing more.
*
QUOTE(Reanne @ Feb 27 2007, 10:27 PM)
OK! Bedding Reviews!

Bedding reviews

- Any beddings that contain raw percentage of phenols will not be reviewed here as I do not recommend them at all. If anyone's wondering, phenols are hydrocarbons that are released by softwoods such as pine and cedar that can promote liver, lung and intestinal problems when housed on. Pets such as hamsters, rats and gerbils can be severely affected by such hydrocarbons in a very short amount of time due to their high-metabolism and oxygen intake.

If you find it hard to imagine, then take disinfectant or lysol, drench a cloth with it, then sleep on it. This is exactly what's happening to your beloved pet. The germicidal properties from disinfectant is commercially extracted from pine and cedar sap. Imagine what it can do to their sensitive lungs and liver.

- Absorbency > To rate how good the absorption and odour control is.
- Cleanliness > To rate whether it's messy or neat.
- Dust content > To rate whether the dust content is high or low. A higher rating means lower dust content.
- Appearance > To rate whether it looks presentable, dull or just plain ugly.
- Advantages > Self explanatory.
- Disadvantages > Self explanatory.
- Status > Comments and recommendation.
10 = A must try
9 = Very good
8 = Quite good
7 = Good
6 = Okay
5 = Satisfactory
4 = Not so good
3 = Not good
2 = BAD
1 = Caution. Try at own risk.
0 = You have been warned

Kaytee

Aspen
- Absorbency > 6
- Cleanliness > 5
- Dust content > 6
- Appearance > 7
- Advantages > Economical, does not contain phenols(safe), good for building nests.
- Disadvantages > A little dusty, absorbency is rather average and due to absence of phenols, inspection for any mites is advised before purchase.
- Status > Neutral

Pine
- Absorbency > 6
- Cleanliness > 6
- Dust content > 7
- Appearance > 6
- Advantages > Economical, contains minimal phenols due to being kiln-dried.
- Disadvantages > Should be changed regularly as it does not contain the phenols that help suppress the smell of defacation. Will release a rather pungent      odour if not changed regularly.
- Status > Neutral

Kaykob
- Absorbency > 4
- Cleanliness > 7
- Dust content > 9
- Appearance > 7
- Advantages > No phenols(safe).
- Disadvantages > Will turn moldy when exposed to humidity or when not changed regularly. Can attract mites. Can be very noisy when dug into due to it      hitting the tank walls.
- Status > Recommended for low-urine producing pets. eg. Gerbils.

Chloropyhll pine

- Absorbency > 7
- Cleanliness > 7
- Dust content > 7
- Appearance > 7 (I like the appearance)
- Advantages > Minimum phenols due to being kiln-dried. Absorbency slightly better than the regular Kaytee pine.
- Disadvantages >  Should be changed regularly as it does not contain the phenols that help suppress the smell of defacation. Will release a rather pungent        odour if not changed regularly.
- Status > Neutral

Breeder Celect & B2N (Back2Nature)

- Absorbency > 8
- Cleanliness > 9
- Dust content > 9
- Appearance > 5
- Advantages > Clean and neat. No phenols at all. Enviromentally friendly (Made from recycled newspaper) Good absorbency. Easy to clean.
- Disadvantages > More expensive. Dull appearance.
- Status > Recommended

Woody Pet wood pellets

- Absorbency > 10
- Cleanliness > 8
- Dust content > 8
- Appearance > 7
- Advantages > Very good absorption.
- Disadvantages > Rather heavy due to high compression. Quite hard, but can be seasoned by sprinkling water introducing pet. Strong woody smell.
- Status > Recommended for high ammonia producing pets. eg. Syrian hamsters, hedgehogs, guinea pigs, rabbits, stinky male sugar gliders.

Sluis comfort bedding

- Absorbency > 5
- Cleanliness > 5
- Dust content > 1
- Appearance > 3
- Advantages > I don't see any.
- Disadvantages > Extremely dusty. I had trouble breathing when i used it.
- Status > Not recommended.
*
QUOTE(Reanne @ Jun 24 2007, 07:51 PM)
This thread is dedicated to the countless clueless people that open threads just to ask about (read topic) and waste time by waaaitinnnng for other experienced people to reply. While waiting, anything could go wrong.

The Ultimate Rule

Now, the ultimate first and foremost thing you should do is DO NOT TOUCH THE BABIES!

Why? Because the mother might eat them, that's why.

Now 'Why would the mother eat them?' you ask?

-When hamster babies are born, known as pups, they have no scent and the mother recognizes it as her own because of her instincts. If you touch it, they will smell like something else and she will not recognize it as her offspring, but rather as something that's not supposed to be there, or she will mistake it as another female's pup. Being defensive that it may harm her babies, she will attack it and eat it up, brains, limbs organs and all.

Cannibalism is not uncommon for hamsters as it is a form of protection. Though you may have obeyed the first rule, it doesn't mean all the pups will 100% survive.

If the environment is stressful(Lots of noise, in a busy area, too bright etc), the nutritional requirements are not enough, or even if the mom is just not a good mom, you may lose from one to all your pups.

The First Rule

Give her as much food as she wants and supplements.

Oh, does that mean give her what she likes? Can I give her only kuaci?


No. Kuaci aka sunflower seeds are not good if she takes a lot. It's empty fats and not enough for her to raise a healthy bunch of babies. Giving only kuaci is like you living on peanuts. BUT, this doesn't mean you should feed her kuaci at all. Give her small amounts as sunflower seeds have Vitamin E and carbs, but very fattening.

Then what can I feed her?

First off, are you feeding her a good basic diet? No delikate or Bengy please. They not balanced at all and they're cheap because they're very low in quality, meaning very low in nutrition.

Good basic brands are Harry Hamster and Prestige, Sluis is also quite alright. No idea where to get these? You can try Pet Safari or Pets family.

Supplements are fresh fruits, vegetables, hard boiled egg white, wheatgerm, organic grains such as amaranth, raw peanuts, buckwheat, flaxseeds etc. Mealworms and crickets are great as treats as well as protein.
TO BE CONTINUED< HAVE TO GO DINNER. If wait later to post, my sister will close the tab. smile.gif
*
This post has been edited by crazymouse_yyh: Apr 24 2008, 12:30 AM
TScrazymouse_yyh
post Apr 19 2008, 10:12 PM

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Pet shops that carry good amount of hamster accessories.


Pet Shack
user posted image
View the map to know.

Carries cages, a nice variety of sugar glider accessories and necessities. The only shop carrying WODENT WHEELS for gliders, hamsters and hedgehogs. Safest and most recommended wheel.

Contact: 603- 5637 4536

Operation Hours
Tue - Sat : 11am to 9pm
Sun : 11am to 7pm
Mon : Closed

102 Block A Mentari Business Park
Jalan PJS 8/2
Bandar Sunway
46150 Petaling Jaya
Selangor, Malaysia

Pet Safari
They carry certain items and accessories for gliders. You can find good sized cages, substrate for cages. Metal bowls and bird toys.

PLC Pet Safari (KL) Sdn. Bhd.
S1, IKANO Power Centre,
No. 2, Jalan PJU 7-2,
(Level 2), Mutiara Damansara,
47800 Petaling Jaya, Selangor Darul Ehsan, Malaysia.

Tel: +603-7724 1578
Fax: +603-7724 1527

Operating Hours . 10am - 10pm

This post has been edited by crazymouse_yyh: Apr 24 2008, 12:32 AM
TScrazymouse_yyh
post Apr 19 2008, 10:12 PM

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Reserved for updates
sOuLx
post Apr 19 2008, 10:20 PM

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yeaaa.. i got the no 1 post for our new cHubby2 Hamster !!!
really excited about hamster nowadays.. maybe coz i miss my montee which i left with my friend..
-Nos-
post Apr 19 2008, 10:27 PM

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Woohoo! V7
Keep em' coming Hamster Lovers rclxms.gif
mlinda
post Apr 19 2008, 10:29 PM

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huhuhu...new board already... so my last question before will not be answer lahh...
SUSirkuysm
post Apr 19 2008, 10:35 PM

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wow new V7 on my 1st day having my 1st hamster!

How nice!
abang brother
post Apr 19 2008, 10:36 PM

Look at all my stars!!
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Congrats on V7!! rclxms.gif
drexar
post Apr 19 2008, 10:42 PM

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woo congratz.. V7 already o.O
jayniel
post Apr 20 2008, 01:12 AM

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yer i'm late... anyway congratz to us & to our hamsters~~
weefung2003
post Apr 20 2008, 01:39 AM

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Congrats on V7!! hurray rclxm9.gif rclxm9.gif rclxm9.gif

SiLVeRHybRiD
post Apr 20 2008, 01:41 AM

<(0.0)<^(0.0)^>(o.o)>
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weee~ v7 edi~

need more hamster pics for viewing ~ tongue.gif
jayniel
post Apr 20 2008, 01:51 AM

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QUOTE(mlinda @ Apr 19 2008, 10:29 PM)
huhuhu...new board already... so my last question before will not be answer lahh...
*
lolz i think u need to ask that Q again in this thread.. anyway my view is when it gets wets/smelly.. depends which 1 happen first.. if smelly of cos u need to change.. wet also not good, cos bacteria or wateva likes damp places.. i think for breeder celect, changing once a week is just nice..
Jamien
post Apr 20 2008, 02:19 AM

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Wah, congratz v7. So fast change edi.
weefung2003
post Apr 20 2008, 03:05 AM

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need help here icon_question.gif icon_question.gif
my hamster "jojo" suddenly become so hyperactive sweat.gif sweat.gif
he keep run here and there just look a way to get out the tank like "prison break" shakehead.gif shakehead.gif
is my hamster fade out of me or dislike the tank or the environment not suitable for him?? hmm.gif hmm.gif
but at last i touch him 2nite tongue.gif tongue.gif his fur is smooth and silky rclxms.gif rclxms.gif
thanks for help notworthy.gif notworthy.gif
bidangayah
post Apr 20 2008, 04:20 AM

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uiyyooohh, gratzz!! V7 edy, well as usual im digging a knowledge form the experts here, well becoz of my hammy mother bite her pups, so i separate her, the pups already around 21 old days, i only have 1 cage and 1 tank, at first i put the mom and her pups together but after they gaduh2, i separate the mom and put in the dad in the tank with the pups, so is it ok if i put the dad together with 4 pups since the mom seem so garang and i dont know y...i worried if the dad will breed with 21 old days pups...sound funny, but i want to know... sweat.gif
jayniel
post Apr 20 2008, 04:42 AM

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QUOTE(bidangayah @ Apr 20 2008, 04:20 AM)
uiyyooohh, gratzz!! V7 edy, well as usual im digging a knowledge form the experts here, well becoz of my hammy mother bite her pups, so i separate her, the pups already around 21 old days, i only have 1 cage and 1 tank, at first i put the mom and her pups together but after they gaduh2, i separate the mom and put in the dad in the tank with the pups, so is it ok if i put the dad together with 4 pups since the mom seem so garang and i dont know y...i worried if the dad will breed with 21 old days pups...sound funny, but i want to know... sweat.gif
*
well, better get another tank for the dad cos he'll mate with his daughters as soon as they're 5 weeks old.. u definitely cant kep the dad with the pups for long.. also, unless u have a big tank, it's almost impossible to keep the pups together when they reach 2 months old.. from my experience, when my hamster pups hit 2 months, they began fighting for territory.. so best thing is to separate male from female at 1 month old, n separate each of the pups at 2 months old(if they cant get along well).. which means u'll need 6 tanks in the long run..
SUSirkuysm
post Apr 20 2008, 09:11 AM

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QUOTE(weefung2003 @ Apr 20 2008, 03:05 AM)
need help here icon_question.gif  icon_question.gif
my hamster "jojo" suddenly become so hyperactive sweat.gif  sweat.gif
he keep run here and there just look a way to get out the tank like "prison break" shakehead.gif  shakehead.gif
is my hamster fade out of me or dislike the tank or the environment not suitable for him??  hmm.gif  hmm.gif 
but at last i touch him 2nite tongue.gif  tongue.gif his fur is smooth and silky rclxms.gif  rclxms.gif
thanks for help notworthy.gif  notworthy.gif
*
Mine also like that this morning,i think it just overhype but i see my hams dont want play with the wheel rclxub.gif

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