Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

Please provide proper description when you report a post. Report button abuse will earn you an automatic warn + suspension.
 
RSS feedBump TopicReply to this topicStart new topicStart Poll

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

> throttle body problem

triads418
post Mar 9 2008, 11:29 PM


Getting Started
**
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 82

Joined: Apr 2005
my proton wira aeroback 1.5 auto have this problem recently...i start the car for a while then the engine stall
so i went to mechanic and ask him to clean the throttle body, check the air filter...then when he put everything back and tune it with a computer device he said the circuit board in the throttle body going to spoil already...so he advised me to wait until it complete gone then change a new one....

my question is which circuit board he's referring to ? i ask him izzit to throttle body that he clean b4 that...see this picture
http://www.hitachi-hap.com/products/Control_Units/etcu.jpg
or something else bcos i didnt see any circuit board on it

if that's the one i want to know the price range for a reliable/performance brand other than proton...

personally i dun feel like waiting for the thing to die out...so i want to change it asap
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
maddriver
post Mar 10 2008, 09:02 AM


the madman!
******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 1,136

Joined: Oct 2006
From: maddriversgarage, where else?


QUOTE(triads418 @ Mar 10 2008, 02:29 AM)
my proton wira aeroback 1.5 auto have this problem recently...i start the car for a while then the engine stall
so i went to mechanic and ask him to clean the throttle body, check the air filter...then when he put everything back and tune it with a computer device he said the circuit board in the throttle body going to spoil already...so he advised me to wait until it complete gone then change a new one....

my question is which circuit board he's referring to ? i ask him izzit to throttle body that he clean b4 that...see this picture
http://www.hitachi-hap.com/products/Control_Units/etcu.jpg
or something else bcos i didnt see any circuit board on it

if that's the one i want to know the price range for a reliable/performance brand other than proton...

personally i dun feel like waiting for the thing to die out...so i want to change it asap
*
unfortunately, that's the only brand of throttle body u can use. it's a common problem. just clean the throttle body everytime u service the car. it should be fine.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
triads418
post Mar 11 2008, 02:57 PM


Getting Started
**
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 82

Joined: Apr 2005
ohh i went to eon service center they said it's the servo motor that need to be changed...he said their brand is apm

izzit good? any other reliable brand and cheaper
the price they charge is 600 including service
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
silbii
post Mar 11 2008, 03:06 PM


Enthusiast
*****
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 821

Joined: Sep 2005


other than cleaning, there's some plastic gears inside the TB that could be changed....it's cheap, rm30+ i think...any reliable normal garage can install this i think

i did this to my satria years back for erratic rpm behaviour of my engine...not sure if this could solve your problem, but it's worth a try.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
maranello55
post Mar 21 2008, 02:00 PM


Accelera Ayrton!!
*******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 3,218

Joined: Aug 2006
From: Sao Paolo, Brazil




Just got back servicing the throttle body too. Before with aircond on 1 oso engine can die.

Ask the mech to air blow the connecting hosts...they could be clogged. Mine is running fine now. Aircond on 3 also never jerk. Gonna fill in and see fuel consumption. I think it will gimme alil bit more milage.
User is online!Profile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
imperialrealcs
post Mar 21 2008, 03:22 PM


IMPERIAL DEATH STAR!
*******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 6,509

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Seri Petaling



QUOTE(maranello55 @ Mar 21 2008, 02:00 PM)
Just got back servicing the throttle body too. Before with aircond on 1 oso engine can die.

Ask the mech to air blow the connecting hosts...they could be clogged. Mine is running fine now. Aircond on 3 also never jerk. Gonna fill in and see fuel consumption. I think it will gimme alil bit more milage.
*
it doesnt matter whether u on 1 2 or 3..
if u on 1 and the car jerk, then 2 and 3 confirm jerk
if u on 1 and no jerk, then confirm 2 and 3 wont jerk
experienced from my own car
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
maranello55
post Mar 21 2008, 04:28 PM


Accelera Ayrton!!
*******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 3,218

Joined: Aug 2006
From: Sao Paolo, Brazil




QUOTE(imperialrealcs @ Mar 21 2008, 03:22 PM)
it doesnt matter whether u on 1 2 or 3..
if u on 1 and the car jerk, then 2 and 3 confirm jerk
if u on 1 and no jerk, then confirm 2 and 3 wont jerk
experienced from my own car
*
Ic...in my case if i was on 1 my car jerk less than 2 or 3.
User is online!Profile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
imperialrealcs
post Mar 22 2008, 11:21 AM


IMPERIAL DEATH STAR!
*******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 6,509

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Seri Petaling



QUOTE(maranello55 @ Mar 21 2008, 04:28 PM)
Ic...in my case if i was on 1 my car jerk less than 2 or 3.
*
mayb we got diffrent problem blush.gif
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
usus
post Mar 24 2008, 03:14 PM


lalala~~
******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 1,144

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Seri Petaling, KL



tumpang thread...
if stepper motor is not working, does it have any effect on the car?

User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
imperialrealcs
post Mar 24 2008, 06:16 PM


IMPERIAL DEATH STAR!
*******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 6,509

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Seri Petaling



QUOTE(usus @ Mar 24 2008, 03:14 PM)
tumpang thread...
if stepper motor is not working, does it have any effect on the car?
*
ur car idling will fluctuate..
from 1k to 0.5k and so on..
when idling also will get severe vibration..
when u r cruising, sometimes the rev will drop and rise back in few seconds time, result in short term power loss
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
triads418
post Mar 24 2008, 08:29 PM


Getting Started
**
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 82

Joined: Apr 2005
ok confirm that the ics servo motor circuit spoil
already check with 3 different garage...all also got use computer board to check

right now my car will stall during starting up...so have to step on the acc. and according to mechanic that is the only effect and if worse will stall when not moving...

This post has been edited by triads418: Mar 24 2008, 08:32 PM
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
imperialrealcs
post Mar 24 2008, 09:59 PM


IMPERIAL DEATH STAR!
*******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 6,509

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Seri Petaling



QUOTE(triads418 @ Mar 24 2008, 08:29 PM)
ok confirm that the ics servo motor circuit spoil
already check with 3 different garage...all also got use computer board to check

right now my car will stall during starting up...so have to step on the acc. and according to mechanic that is the only effect and if worse will stall when not moving...
*
what car are u driving? with what engine?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
maddriver
post Mar 25 2008, 08:31 AM


the madman!
******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 1,136

Joined: Oct 2006
From: maddriversgarage, where else?


QUOTE(triads418 @ Mar 11 2008, 05:57 PM)
ohh i went to eon service center they said it's the servo motor that need to be changed...he said their brand is apm

izzit good? any other reliable brand and cheaper
the price they charge is 600 including service
*
u can get a 1.6 throttle body for rm400.00............good for slightly more power on the 1.5....
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
triads418
post Mar 25 2008, 03:21 PM


Getting Started
**
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 82

Joined: Apr 2005
QUOTE(imperialrealcs @ Mar 24 2008, 09:59 AM)
what car are u driving? with what engine?
*
wira aeroback 1.6 xli...there is 1.6 xli logo on the car body..so i think my car should be 1.6L

one of my mechanic said the servo motor should be rm700 anything less is refurbished product...2nd hand around 300-400 also warranty 7 days
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
shinjite
post Mar 25 2008, 04:06 PM


�ŞħĬΩĵΐŦ��
********
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 18,646

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang


YES Ur car is a 1.6
the 2nd hand price is more or less the amount u posted, new 1 is very expensive
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
maddriver
post Mar 26 2008, 07:56 AM


the madman!
******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 1,136

Joined: Oct 2006
From: maddriversgarage, where else?


QUOTE(triads418 @ Mar 25 2008, 06:21 PM)
wira aeroback 1.6 xli...there is 1.6 xli logo on the car body..so i think my car should be 1.6L

one of my mechanic said the servo motor should be rm700 anything less is refurbished product...2nd hand around 300-400 also warranty 7 days
*
1.6, use perdana 4 cylinder throttle body. re-con ones will cost u rm450.00. more power brows.gif
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
triads418
post Mar 26 2008, 09:34 AM


Getting Started
**
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 82

Joined: Apr 2005
QUOTE(maddriver @ Mar 25 2008, 07:56 PM)
1.6, use perdana 4 cylinder throttle body. re-con ones will cost u rm450.00. more power brows.gif
*
what is the difference...intake hole bigger? if more air comes in does that mean more fuel will be injected?

i dont mind changing it to gain more performance as long as its fuel consumption is the same as b4... smile.gif
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
shinjite
post Mar 26 2008, 11:28 AM


�ŞħĬΩĵΐŦ��
********
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 18,646

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang


Your throttle response will be better~~
negligible difference on FC but if u always hentam....the FC will be higher as usual...

This post has been edited by shinjite: Mar 26 2008, 11:29 AM
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ezianevo
post Mar 26 2008, 11:36 AM


New Member
*
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 38

Joined: Jan 2007
err....just want to ask sifu here...mine is wira 1.3 injection and using mmc wiring...beside 1.3 TB what other TB can i use?? is it possible i use 4GX series TB?? sorry for noob question


Added on March 26, 2008, 11:41 ambtw, seem my rpm always fluctuate like crazy sometimes it might goes to 2k rpm....when i stop at traffic light the rpm will always keeps fluctuate and people might think that i play2 with gas pedal....really ashamed..


Added on March 26, 2008, 11:42 amis it stepper motor problem?? this is my second TB...and its really costly to change..

This post has been edited by ezianevo: Mar 26 2008, 11:42 AM
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
maddriver
post Mar 26 2008, 01:07 PM


the madman!
******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 1,136

Joined: Oct 2006
From: maddriversgarage, where else?


QUOTE(ezianevo @ Mar 26 2008, 02:36 PM)
err....just want to ask sifu here...mine is wira 1.3 injection and using mmc wiring...beside 1.3 TB what other TB can i use?? is it possible i use 4GX series TB?? sorry for noob question


Added on March 26, 2008, 11:41 ambtw, seem my rpm always fluctuate like crazy sometimes it might goes to 2k rpm....when i stop at traffic light the rpm will always keeps fluctuate and people might think that i play2 with gas pedal....really ashamed..


Added on March 26, 2008, 11:42 amis it stepper motor problem?? this is my second TB...and its really costly to change..
*
the only 4g9x that u can use comes from the wira 1.6. the perdana one is too big....


sounds like a stepper motor problem
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
usus
post Mar 28 2008, 10:33 AM


lalala~~
******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 1,144

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Seri Petaling, KL



QUOTE(imperialrealcs @ Mar 24 2008, 06:16 PM)
ur car idling will fluctuate..
from 1k to 0.5k and so on..
when idling also will get severe vibration..
when u r cruising, sometimes the rev will drop and rise back in few seconds time, result in short term power loss
*
thanks for the feedback...
the good thing is that no problemo with idling.
But stepper value is 0 always. After cleaning TB & induction box, my car maintains 900rpm no A/C. 300-400rpm on A/C & no fluctuate, fortunately. I'll just attempt clean stepper motor later on see any good results.

QUOTE(maddriver @ Mar 26 2008, 07:56 AM)
1.6, use perdana 4 cylinder throttle body. re-con ones will cost u rm450.00. more power brows.gif
*
perdana one is same with FTO? 63mm?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
maddriver
post Mar 28 2008, 11:01 AM


the madman!
******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 1,136

Joined: Oct 2006
From: maddriversgarage, where else?


QUOTE(usus @ Mar 28 2008, 01:33 PM)
thanks for the feedback...
the good thing is that no problemo with idling.
But stepper value is 0 always. After cleaning TB & induction box, my car maintains 900rpm no A/C. 300-400rpm on A/C & no fluctuate, fortunately. I'll just attempt clean stepper motor later on see any good results.
perdana one is same with FTO? 63mm?
*
perdana is 60mm.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
sqwerk2
post Mar 28 2008, 11:04 AM


The Big One
******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 1,799

Joined: Jan 2003



QUOTE(maddriver @ Mar 26 2008, 07:56 AM)
1.6, use perdana 4 cylinder throttle body. re-con ones will cost u rm450.00. more power brows.gif
*
no offence bro, for a TB, i think better spend on a new one rather than a recon one. recon ones already cost that much, might as well spend a lil bit more on a new.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
shinjite
post Mar 28 2008, 11:06 AM


�ŞħĬΩĵΐŦ��
********
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 18,646

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang


New 1 alone will be twice the amount....
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
EyraYus
post Mar 28 2008, 12:33 PM


sTRe3tHunt3R
*******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 2,111

Joined: Feb 2008
From: Gombak Setia



QUOTE(usus @ Mar 28 2008, 10:33 AM)
my car maintains 900rpm no A/C. 300-400rpm on
*
then u might want to use FICD (or FCID?) to stabilize ur car idling when a/c on
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
sqwerk2
post Mar 28 2008, 12:54 PM


The Big One
******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 1,799

Joined: Jan 2003



QUOTE(shinjite @ Mar 28 2008, 11:06 AM)
New 1 alone will be twice the amount....
*
wira new VDO still can get in a range of 600-700.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
shinjite
post Mar 28 2008, 02:17 PM


�ŞħĬΩĵΐŦ��
********
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 18,646

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang


Thats for VDO, not Mitsubishi ones smile.gif
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
tancc19
post Aug 15 2008, 11:24 AM


New Member
*
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 40

Joined: Nov 2006
QUOTE(triads418 @ Mar 9 2008, 11:29 PM)
my proton wira aeroback 1.5 auto have this problem recently...i start the car for a while then the engine stall
so i went to mechanic and ask him to clean the throttle body, check the air filter...then when he put everything back and tune it with a computer device he said the circuit board in the throttle body going to spoil already...so he advised me to wait until it complete gone then change a new one....

my question is which circuit board he's referring to ? i ask him izzit to throttle body that he clean b4 that...see this picture
http://www.hitachi-hap.com/products/Control_Units/etcu.jpg
or something else bcos i didnt see any circuit board on it

if that's the one i want to know the price range for a reliable/performance brand other than proton...

personally i dun feel like waiting for the thing to die out...so i want to change it asap
*
hi triads418,

I'm driving proton wira1.5 manual year 2000 car. I change the entire new genuine Throttle Body since last week. According the mech in the proton service shop, he said the proton 1st version that have fuel injection function (1998 ~ 2000) proton car always cannot solve the RPM problem. Those 2001 ~ onwards can try to solve by clean and servicing by TB gear kits.

sad.gif i spend Rm980++ for new TB tuning and labour cost.

My problem is RPM drop until 500 if aircorn pump is run. If without air corn pump run the RPM is ok. When RPM drop to 500 whole car shaking like earth quake.

Hope this can forever solve this problem coz my car already almost 8 years and hope can drive another 8 years. But so far the 1st week now my car can feel good thumbup.gif . Still have just abit shaking unsure.gif and plan to change 1 set new mounting to resolve the problem later.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
shinjite
post Aug 15 2008, 11:47 AM


�ŞħĬΩĵΐŦ��
********
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 18,646

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang


Hmmm...he said can't solve the bad idling with air cond on?
Like that we changed to genuine new TB also useless?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
MobyDick
post Aug 15 2008, 11:54 AM


On my way
****
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 676

Joined: Jul 2005
From: Petaling Jaya


What I usually recommend for all Proton throttle body '"Earthquake' problem; buy 1no used Toyota air-cond adjustable/ATC, drill & tap a hole at inlet manifold, hook-up the vacuum pipe & problem all solve FOREVER. Can set whatever idling rpm you want.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
shinjite
post Aug 15 2008, 12:42 PM


�ŞħĬΩĵΐŦ��
********
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 18,646

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang


I had installed Toyota FICD, but my rpm still drops when air cond on
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
the_catacombs
post Aug 15 2008, 01:20 PM


8 stars wooo....
********
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 10,975

Joined: Jan 2003
From: disini disana


QUOTE(MobyDick @ Aug 15 2008, 11:54 AM)
What I usually recommend for all Proton throttle body '"Earthquake' problem; buy 1no used Toyota air-cond adjustable/ATC, drill & tap a hole at inlet manifold, hook-up the vacuum pipe & problem all solve FOREVER. Can set whatever idling rpm you want.
*
dun need to drill hole lah... doh.gif
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
MobyDick
post Aug 15 2008, 03:31 PM


On my way
****
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 676

Joined: Jul 2005
From: Petaling Jaya


QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Aug 15 2008, 01:20 PM)
dun need to drill hole lah... doh.gif
*
Better-lol, after BOCOR-BOCOR rpm too high pulak. biggrin.gif

User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Klemann C
post Aug 16 2008, 12:34 AM


Casual
***
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 439

Joined: Feb 2008
From: from da land of dori dori


hi....
i do owned a perdana 16V model & its been 10 year......
now my car got a problem like wat u all mentioned above,
which is throttle body problem, always "earthquake" when da car is idling or halt....
sometimes it even when stalled....
consulted several workshop.....these wat i tried.....

been changed many time those tiny gears which fitted inside TB.....
they're wont last long......then changed whole TB wit recond set.......
after 3 month, problem start to occured......
fedup with same thing.....straightaway get brand new TB from proton.....guess wat?
it costed RM1.2K for a new 1.......after used 1 year.....its back again.... rclxub.gif

then decided to try other workshop,

first thing, they said it was spark plug worn out so changed it....eventually it solved...
after 2-3 month....problem arise again....changed another brand new set plug...
after 2-3 month...same thing again....

went bac that workshop, check again.....detected 1 of the 4 plug cable not working properly....
replaced new set of plug cable.....as it come only whole set not separate....
then thought it was settled down......barely 1 week......same problem again....
but it wasn't that worst till stalled,still drive-able....

now i began noticed, below TB there is area got several electronic cable attached/connect to TB...
that area fully wet with dark oil......is that sign happened to u all proton car?
b4 this it that area are dry not wet...... doh.gif

This post has been edited by Klemann C: Aug 16 2008, 12:35 AM
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
maddriver
post Aug 16 2008, 07:35 AM


the madman!
******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 1,136

Joined: Oct 2006
From: maddriversgarage, where else?


QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 16 2008, 03:34 AM)
hi....
i do owned a perdana 16V model & its been 10 year......
now my car got a problem like wat u all mentioned above,
which is throttle body problem, always "earthquake" when da car is idling or halt....
sometimes it even when stalled....
consulted several workshop.....these wat i tried.....

been changed many time those tiny gears which fitted inside TB.....
they're wont last long......then changed whole TB wit recond set.......
after 3 month, problem start to occured......
fedup with same thing.....straightaway get brand new TB from proton.....guess wat?
it costed RM1.2K for a new 1.......after used 1 year.....its back again....  rclxub.gif

then decided to try other workshop,

first thing, they said it was spark plug worn out so changed it....eventually it solved...
after 2-3 month....problem arise again....changed another brand new set plug...
after 2-3 month...same thing again....

went bac that workshop, check again.....detected 1 of the 4 plug cable not working properly....
replaced new set of plug cable.....as it come only whole set not separate....
then thought it was settled down......barely 1 week......same problem again....
but it wasn't that worst till stalled,still drive-able....

now i began noticed, below TB there is area got several electronic cable attached/connect to TB...
that area fully wet with dark oil......is that sign happened to u all proton car?
b4 this it that area are dry not wet...... doh.gif
*
that's a sign that the throttle body spoilt......

User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Klemann C
post Aug 16 2008, 02:32 PM


Casual
***
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 439

Joined: Feb 2008
From: from da land of dori dori


QUOTE(maddriver @ Aug 16 2008, 07:35 AM)
that's a sign that the throttle body spoilt......
*
so its that any possibility to fix bac TB witout change whole TB??
coz this TB i juz used not more than 2 year....
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Hybz
post Aug 16 2008, 03:10 PM


Enthusiast
*****
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 846

Joined: Apr 2008
full service and clean your TB
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
wch5274
post Aug 16 2008, 06:25 PM


On my way
****
Group: Validating
Posts: 532

Joined: Nov 2007
how much to do TB cleaning?...
im using waja 1.6 A 2002...
never done TB cleaining since bought...
where i suppose to send my car for cleaning purpose?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
MobyDick
post Aug 16 2008, 11:36 PM


On my way
****
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 676

Joined: Jul 2005
From: Petaling Jaya


Just make the mods as I've explain 'aboved', cost less than $300, after that non of those fellas with the problem ever come back again.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
the_catacombs
post Aug 17 2008, 04:23 AM


8 stars wooo....
********
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 10,975

Joined: Jan 2003
From: disini disana


QUOTE(Klemann C @ Aug 16 2008, 12:34 AM)
hi....
i do owned a perdana 16V model & its been 10 year......
now my car got a problem like wat u all mentioned above,
which is throttle body problem, always "earthquake" when da car is idling or halt....
sometimes it even when stalled....
consulted several workshop.....these wat i tried.....

been changed many time those tiny gears which fitted inside TB.....
they're wont last long......then changed whole TB wit recond set.......
after 3 month, problem start to occured......
fedup with same thing.....straightaway get brand new TB from proton.....guess wat?
it costed RM1.2K for a new 1.......after used 1 year.....its back again....  rclxub.gif

then decided to try other workshop,

first thing, they said it was spark plug worn out so changed it....eventually it solved...
after 2-3 month....problem arise again....changed another brand new set plug...
after 2-3 month...same thing again....

went bac that workshop, check again.....detected 1 of the 4 plug cable not working properly....
replaced new set of plug cable.....as it come only whole set not separate....
then thought it was settled down......barely 1 week......same problem again....
but it wasn't that worst till stalled,still drive-able....

now i began noticed, below TB there is area got several electronic cable attached/connect to TB...
that area fully wet with dark oil......is that sign happened to u all proton car?
b4 this it that area are dry not wet...... doh.gif

*
thats the ISC cable.... inside ISC is the gears and grease to lubricate it.... mayb the rubber gasket sealing that part KO adi.... grease/oil leaked out, causing wear n tear to the gears....

or another possibility, ISC cable melted due to extreme heat...
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Bigblock
post Aug 17 2008, 01:22 PM


|| F(R)έǎжy ||
*******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 2,171

Joined: Jan 2007
From: 192.168.200.45



I am facing the same TB prob for my wira 1.6xli, and recommended shops near PJ?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
viqq
post Aug 17 2008, 02:12 PM


Gangstar
*****
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 930

Joined: Oct 2005
From: Gangstaland

I heard this is a common problem among wira/satria owners.

I myself having throttle body problems too. The gear inside the throttle body broke and after changed still the same problem which is the RPM go up and down even though I didn't press the accelerator. So mechanic asked me to change throttle body. I got myself a 1.5 model for my 1.3 model which the mechanic said should be compatible. That throttle body didn't come with a gasket so the mechanic made 1 himself.

Ok so everything went well, the RPM doesn't go up and down anymore, but the engine will subsequently die in a sudden. No warning no anything, just die. Also after changing the throttle body so many problems jor.. Even my CHECK ENGINE lights are all gone. Stupid mechanic ar~~ More problems after changing throttle body.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
the_catacombs
post Aug 17 2008, 02:31 PM


8 stars wooo....
********
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 10,975

Joined: Jan 2003
From: disini disana


QUOTE(viqq @ Aug 17 2008, 02:12 PM)
I heard this is a common problem among wira/satria owners.

I myself having throttle body problems too. The gear inside the throttle body broke and after changed still the same problem which is the RPM go up and down even though I didn't press the accelerator. So mechanic asked me to change throttle body. I got myself a 1.5 model for my 1.3 model which the mechanic said should be compatible. That throttle body didn't come with a gasket so the mechanic made 1 himself.

Ok so everything went well, the RPM doesn't go up and down anymore, but the engine will subsequently die in a sudden. No warning no anything, just die. Also after changing the throttle body so many problems jor.. Even my CHECK ENGINE lights are all gone. Stupid mechanic ar~~ More problems after changing throttle body.
*
that gasket didnt sell as separate unit in sparepart shop??... hmm.gif
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
sonic_darkknight
post Aug 17 2008, 04:29 PM


Casual
***
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 480

Joined: Jul 2005
my car had this kind of problem before, so what i did was go to kedai potong get myself a good TB with good condition isc motor, my car is 4g15 injection but i bought myself a 4g63 TB(RM250),throttle response increased significantly not to mention reduction in FC. but still after two years, the ISC melted again so since i can't upgrade to even bigger TB, i just went to workshop and installed an additional toyota ficd, it cost me just rm150 including labour and now the probelm is fully solved.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
viqq
post Aug 17 2008, 08:02 PM


Gangstar
*****
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 930

Joined: Oct 2005
From: Gangstaland

QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Aug 17 2008, 02:31 PM)
that gasket didnt sell as separate unit in sparepart shop??... hmm.gif
*
I got the throttle body from distrobutor in my hometown. No gasket included.. I was too rush when I bought the throttle body that I forgot to check whether there's gasket included or even sold seperately. The price where I bought the throttle body was rm300+ only whereas the mechanic wanted to sell to me for RM500+. The mechanic told me he can make it himself then I didn't bother to buy it.

But thinking thoroughly, I can already get a 2nd hand stock Wira 1.5 engine with near the same amount of money. (RM500 for Wira stock 1.5 engine without installation) rclxub.gif
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
the_catacombs
post Aug 18 2008, 02:40 AM


8 stars wooo....
********
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 10,975

Joined: Jan 2003
From: disini disana


QUOTE(sonic_darkknight @ Aug 17 2008, 04:29 PM)
my car had this kind of problem before, so what i did was go to kedai potong get myself a good TB with good condition isc motor, my car is 4g15 injection but i bought myself a 4g63 TB(RM250),throttle response increased significantly not to mention reduction in FC. but still after two years, the ISC melted again so since i can't upgrade to even bigger TB, i just went to workshop and installed an additional toyota ficd, it cost me just rm150 including labour and now the probelm is fully solved.
*
rm150 jz for the toyota ficd??... whoa.... last time i bought from halfcut shop for rm50 only... diy install, free.... tongue.gif tongue.gif

QUOTE(viqq @ Aug 17 2008, 08:02 PM)
I got the throttle body from distrobutor in my hometown. No gasket included.. I was too rush when I bought the throttle body that I forgot to check whether there's gasket included or even sold seperately. The price where I bought the throttle body was rm300+ only whereas the mechanic wanted to sell to me for RM500+. The mechanic told me he can make it himself then I didn't bother to buy it.

But thinking thoroughly, I can already get a 2nd hand stock Wira 1.5 engine with near the same amount of money. (RM500 for Wira stock 1.5 engine without installation)  rclxub.gif
*
now cannot get adi lor... 4g15 enjin lantai cost more than rm1k now... rclxub.gif
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
aliftaufiq
post Aug 18 2008, 09:00 AM


4G92P
*******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 2,784

Joined: Jan 2003



@ sonic-U've been con la bro..FICD paling mahal pun only cost RM 50 + RM 30 for installation biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by aliftaufiq: Aug 18 2008, 09:01 AM
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
shinjite
post Aug 18 2008, 10:01 AM


�ŞħĬΩĵΐŦ��
********
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 18,646

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang


Mine during cold start got problems 1, rpm 1.5k, then when u drive a bit for round 10 minutes
The rpm will go up and down up and down. Need to off engine and reignite back then drop to normal 900rpm idle. I already installed FICD still like that >_>
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
MobyDick
post Aug 18 2008, 11:00 AM


On my way
****
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 676

Joined: Jul 2005
From: Petaling Jaya


If want to use Toyota FICD than you need to do some mods within your current throttle plastic gears. That alone would recommend to install the drill & tap one directly to the main throttle chamber so as it's distributed to all cyclinders without any possible air-leaks, no cars which have been installed with this current method that I've known of ever had a recurrent of this problem. But some will want to maintain without mods & this is what has been done for its maintainence;

remove throttle-body magnet & do a service every 10K km, by cleaning with non-solvent base cleaners, water base ones & compressed air. Do not use anything like petrol or any alcohol base as it will damage the plastic components. After that apply the cleanest & best water base grease/lubricant that money can buy no other than 'KY' which can be obtain from pharmacy. Seal the item again with silicone liquid gasket & it'll perform as per new until the next service interval. So far so good for my mates.

User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
the_catacombs
post Aug 18 2008, 01:41 PM


8 stars wooo....
********
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 10,975

Joined: Jan 2003
From: disini disana


user posted image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Klemann C
post Aug 19 2008, 04:23 PM


Casual
***
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 439

Joined: Feb 2008
From: from da land of dori dori


hi.....can anyone recommend me a workshop which does provide addon FICD thing?? with reasonable price? notworthy.gif
i wana fix my car, add FICD on throttle body....now it gettin worsen....car moving also can stalled....serious
somewhere near old klang road or within kl area?

i went to proton authorised service centre, they dun provide service to tb......only change to whole set brand new 1!!! that fella talk wit lcly la.... mad.gif
anyone got recommendation,pls PM me detail....need to fix it ASAP....everyday need to use that car icon_question.gif
thanks in advance!!
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
shinjite
post Aug 19 2008, 05:09 PM


�ŞħĬΩĵΐŦ��
********
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 18,646

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang


Thats what u get if u go authorised SC, they will tell u TB rosak, change enw 1, costs a bomb

Just go normal workshop and tell them u wanna install FICD, kao tim
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
kucingfight
post Aug 19 2008, 05:12 PM


I Want My B00bs back!!
Group Icon
Overclockers United
Group: Elite
Posts: 4,955

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Sitiawan / Shah Alam / Putra Heights /



changed my Wira 1.6A XLI throttle body after it died of 8yrs of usage.

Costs me rm170 like tat
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Klemann C
post Aug 19 2008, 05:17 PM


Casual
***
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 439

Joined: Feb 2008
From: from da land of dori dori


ok....but i did asked several workshop.....they said no wor.....even ask them juz service also "like force them to take poison pill" doh.gif
btw, which step more recommended?

1) juz service & clean TB?
or
2) straightaway add FICD on it?

as i did mentioned b4,da throttle body ISC cable there is covered with dirty dark color oil...
1 of the forummer said, that sign showed TB gonna spoilt wink.gif
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Mediocre2
post Aug 18 2010, 09:20 PM


New Member
*
Group: New Member
Posts: 1

Joined: Dec 2009
hmm tumpang guys, my tb now starting from cold start would be 900, then after running for like 10 mins it will be 1.4k or sometimes 1.5k. it didnt drop and increase again its like constantly 1.5k already >< why is it like that?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
the_catacombs
post Aug 19 2010, 12:35 AM


8 stars wooo....
********
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 10,975

Joined: Jan 2003
From: disini disana


dat day i went my local sparepart shop enquire about ISC repair kit... he said now they came up with an easier solution...

user posted image

user posted image

it bolts directly to the throttle body, replacing this unit...

user posted image

user posted image

the ISC socket still plugs in, but with removal of coolant lines inside the throttle body... it works the same with less damage coz heated coolant no longer flows into the throttle body.... but somehow, the thing is still made of plastic and will melt, as what often happens to faulty throttle bodies... this stuff cost rm150, can easily diy change, if u know how to remove the throttle body urself....

user posted image

this is what conventional ISC repair kit consist of... plastic gears inside the ISC... if the bottom black plastic thing melts, changing this alone wont help...




or else, jz custom a metal/aluminum plate and block the whole thing off and use FICD to control ur a/c idle rpm...

user posted image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
skyther
post Aug 19 2010, 01:21 AM


Casual
***
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 497

Joined: Jan 2003
From: WA


Allright, I'm not a mechanic by trade, but I've worked on cars enough to know that some of the solutions offered here will do your car more harm than good.

That "FICD" posted above is a Vacuum Switched Valve (VSV) that opens up whenever +12V is applied to it. VSVs are used for EVAP and EGR control, *NOT* for idle control. All it does in this instance create an air bypass from your intake straight into the manifold. Wiring it up to your A/C compressor will cause your idle to go up to 1.5k - 2k RPM. There is no form of idle "control" here. In EFI engines, this will kill your fuel consumption and cause other issues like your car jerking/surging forward when you release your brake pedal, or even cause shifting issues if you have an auto transmission. This is because your ECU is no longer able to properly control the idle and will think you have a vacuum leak.I know some people are going to flame me for this, saying there are no issues with this setup, but trust me, this would cost manufacturers at most $5 to implement, and if it were this simple they would. Car manufacturers know more than you about their own engines. This "FICD" is not intended to supplement or replace your engine's idle control method. If your car wasn't designed with one, you shouldn't be using it.

user posted image

^ This is the device that Toyota uses to control idle. It's called an Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. It contains a stepper motor that is controlled by the ECU to vary the amount of air going into the engine to control idle. If you turn your A/C on, your ECU tells the IAC to open a little more to increase idle to compensate. Newer cars that have drive-by-wire/electronic throttle control may not have this as the ECU controls the idle by directly adjusting the throttle valve. This is also partially the reason why certain D-B-W cars accelerate very suddenly with slight movement of the throttle pedal - because the throttle butterfly is already partially open.

If you have an idle problem, fix the cause at the source.

QUOTE
Mine during cold start got problems 1, rpm 1.5k, then when u drive a bit for round 10 minutes
The rpm will go up and down up and down. Need to off engine and reignite back then drop to normal 900rpm idle


Fluctuating idle can be caused by a plethora of problems from a dirty throttle body/IAC to electrical issues. I have a feeling you may have electrical issues on yours.

Most cars, when first started up, will idle slightly higher than normal for several minutes to warm the engine up. This is needed mainly to lower emissions, but also because every modern engine is designed with an optimum operating temperature range. Catalytic converters also require warming up to work efficiently, as does your engine oil as it's viscosity lowers as it warms up.

If your idle keeps fluctuating, you could have a faulty coolant temperature sensor. I would also check the AFM/MAF/MAP (whatever you have on your car - all does the same job, measure air volume) and the oxygen sensor (on your exhaust manifold/header pipe) in case one of them is causing your car to run in open loop. It can also be something as simple as a dirty throttle body to something nasty like a faulty ECU. I'd get the car checked by a mechanic who knows what he's doing.

QUOTE
Seal the item again with silicone liquid gasket


For the love of God, do NOT seal your throttle body with silicone/RTV/FIPG, they are to be used as gaskets in oil pans and valve covers where hot oil is an issue, NOT throttle bodies. It is a b*tch to remove; your mechanic will hate you and will scratch the hell out of your throttle body trying to clean it all off.

-------------------------------------------------------------

Throttle bodies / IACs / intake pipes will get dirty, this is normal. Your engine burns fuel, and carbon is a by product. This is also why your oil goes black, it's normal. Throttle bodies and IACs *should* be cleaned regularly, though most mechanics will not look at it until there is an issue with the car. It can be time consuming as to clean it properly requires removal of the TB, intake hose, disconnecting all the cables and hoses, etc etc. Some TBs also have coolant bypasses in them, and you need to top up the coolant after reinstalling the TB.

If your issue is caused by a dirty TB/IAC, clean it. Do not install the "FICD". If you're feeling poor, do it yourself. All you need is carby cleaner, a socket and ratchet set, a few old rags/t-shirts and patience. Alternatively if you're lazy, buy yourself a bottle of Seafoam and run it through a vacuum hose.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
joponet
post Aug 19 2010, 08:19 AM


New Member
*
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 10

Joined: Oct 2006


QUOTE(skyther @ Aug 19 2010, 01:21 AM)
Allright, I'm not a mechanic by trade, but I've worked on cars enough to know that some of the solutions offered here will do your car more harm than good.

That "FICD" posted above is a Vacuum Switched Valve (VSV) that opens up whenever +12V is applied to it. VSVs are used for EVAP and EGR control, *NOT* for idle control. All it does in this instance create an air bypass from your intake straight into the manifold. Wiring it up to your A/C compressor will cause your idle to go up to 1.5k - 2k RPM. There is no form of idle "control" here. In EFI engines, this will kill your fuel consumption and cause other issues like your car jerking/surging forward when you release your brake pedal, or even cause shifting issues if you have an auto transmission. This is because your ECU is no longer able to properly control the idle and will think you have a vacuum leak.I know some people are going to flame me for this, saying there are no issues with this setup, but trust me, this would cost manufacturers at most $5 to implement, and if it were this simple they would. Car manufacturers know more than you about their own engines. This "FICD" is not intended to supplement or replace your engine's idle control method. If your car wasn't designed with one, you shouldn't be using it.

user posted image

^ This is the device that Toyota uses to control idle. It's called an Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. It contains a stepper motor that is controlled by the ECU to vary the amount of air going into the engine to control idle. If you turn your A/C on, your ECU tells the IAC to open a little more to increase idle to compensate. Newer cars that have drive-by-wire/electronic throttle control may not have this as the ECU controls the idle by directly adjusting the throttle valve. This is also partially the reason why certain D-B-W cars accelerate very suddenly with slight movement of the throttle pedal - because the throttle butterfly is already partially open.

If you have an idle problem, fix the cause at the source.
Fluctuating idle can be caused by a plethora of problems from a dirty throttle body/IAC to electrical issues. I have a feeling you may have electrical issues on yours.

Most cars, when first started up, will idle slightly higher than normal for several minutes to warm the engine up. This is needed mainly to lower emissions, but also because every modern engine is designed with an optimum operating temperature range. Catalytic converters also require warming up to work efficiently, as does your engine oil as it's viscosity lowers as it warms up.

If your idle keeps fluctuating, you could have a faulty coolant temperature sensor. I would also check the AFM/MAF/MAP (whatever you have on your car - all does the same job, measure air volume) and the oxygen sensor (on your exhaust manifold/header pipe) in case one of them is causing your car to run in open loop. It can also be something as simple as a dirty throttle body to something nasty like a faulty ECU. I'd get the car checked by a mechanic who knows what he's doing.
For the love of God, do NOT seal your throttle body with silicone/RTV/FIPG, they are to be used as gaskets in oil pans and valve covers where hot oil is an issue, NOT throttle bodies. It is a b*tch to remove; your mechanic will hate you and will scratch the hell out of your throttle body trying to clean it all off.

-------------------------------------------------------------

Throttle bodies / IACs / intake pipes will get dirty, this is normal. Your engine burns fuel, and carbon is a by product. This is also why your oil goes black, it's normal. Throttle bodies and IACs *should* be cleaned regularly, though most mechanics will not look at it until there is an issue with the car. It can be time consuming as to clean it properly requires removal of the TB, intake hose, disconnecting all the cables and hoses, etc etc. Some TBs also have coolant bypasses in them, and you need to top up the coolant after reinstalling the TB.

If your issue is caused by a dirty TB/IAC, clean it. Do not install the "FICD". If you're feeling poor, do it yourself. All you need is carby cleaner, a socket and ratchet set, a few old rags/t-shirts and patience. Alternatively if you're lazy, buy yourself a bottle of Seafoam and run it through a vacuum hose.
*
I totally agree with skyther. thats what happens to my everyday used wira 1.6(A) year 2000. I've installed the FICD, but new problems occured like you mentioned it above... jerking, fuel consumption, the rpm... all gone mad already. Plan to pull off the FICD and start find new TB. My mecha said, the plastic below the TB already melting. I've service it by change the servo kit... but same problems still occured.

User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
hleb24
post Aug 25 2010, 10:34 AM


New Member
*
Group: New Member
Posts: 3

Joined: Jul 2009

Added on August 25, 2010, 10:37 amMine also have the same problem. Rpm will fluctuate when idle and when press fuel pedal i could feel the noise something like sysss sound. What is this actually??
Went to Toyota SC and they scanned, found error at ISC/IAC valve and suggest to change ISC. Very costly.RM1644. sad.gif

They also said if i'm not change maybe it could effect ECU. Is it true? Please help!

Other thing is my airbag and engine check light doesn't function at all. They said it could be short circuit because of 'cara tukar bateri salah.'

Sorry for my English.

This post has been edited by hleb24: Aug 25 2010, 12:13 PM
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
yeehau86
post Aug 25 2010, 10:54 AM


Getting Started
**
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 128

Joined: Dec 2008


it is not ICU (ICU is Hospital term), the correct is ECU. Perhaps you can get a used throttle body at half cut shop at few hundreds.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
yong88
post Sep 10 2010, 06:10 PM


New Member
*
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 7

Joined: Jul 2008


QUOTE(skyther @ Aug 19 2010, 01:21 AM)
Allright, I'm not a mechanic by trade, but I've worked on cars enough to know that some of the solutions offered here will do your car more harm than good.

That "FICD" posted above is a Vacuum Switched Valve (VSV) that opens up whenever +12V is applied to it. VSVs are used for EVAP and EGR control, *NOT* for idle control. All it does in this instance create an air bypass from your intake straight into the manifold. Wiring it up to your A/C compressor will cause your idle to go up to 1.5k - 2k RPM. There is no form of idle "control" here. In EFI engines, this will kill your fuel consumption and cause other issues like your car jerking/surging forward when you release your brake pedal, or even cause shifting issues if you have an auto transmission. This is because your ECU is no longer able to properly control the idle and will think you have a vacuum leak.I know some people are going to flame me for this, saying there are no issues with this setup, but trust me, this would cost manufacturers at most $5 to implement, and if it were this simple they would. Car manufacturers know more than you about their own engines. This "FICD" is not intended to supplement or replace your engine's idle control method. If your car wasn't designed with one, you shouldn't be using it.

user posted image

^ This is the device that Toyota uses to control idle. It's called an Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. It contains a stepper motor that is controlled by the ECU to vary the amount of air going into the engine to control idle. If you turn your A/C on, your ECU tells the IAC to open a little more to increase idle to compensate. Newer cars that have drive-by-wire/electronic throttle control may not have this as the ECU controls the idle by directly adjusting the throttle valve. This is also partially the reason why certain D-B-W cars accelerate very suddenly with slight movement of the throttle pedal - because the throttle butterfly is already partially open.

If you have an idle problem, fix the cause at the source.
Fluctuating idle can be caused by a plethora of problems from a dirty throttle body/IAC to electrical issues. I have a feeling you may have electrical issues on yours.

Most cars, when first started up, will idle slightly higher than normal for several minutes to warm the engine up. This is needed mainly to lower emissions, but also because every modern engine is designed with an optimum operating temperature range. Catalytic converters also require warming up to work efficiently, as does your engine oil as it's viscosity lowers as it warms up.

If your idle keeps fluctuating, you could have a faulty coolant temperature sensor. I would also check the AFM/MAF/MAP (whatever you have on your car - all does the same job, measure air volume) and the oxygen sensor (on your exhaust manifold/header pipe) in case one of them is causing your car to run in open loop. It can also be something as simple as a dirty throttle body to something nasty like a faulty ECU. I'd get the car checked by a mechanic who knows what he's doing.
For the love of God, do NOT seal your throttle body with silicone/RTV/FIPG, they are to be used as gaskets in oil pans and valve covers where hot oil is an issue, NOT throttle bodies. It is a b*tch to remove; your mechanic will hate you and will scratch the hell out of your throttle body trying to clean it all off.

-------------------------------------------------------------

Throttle bodies / IACs / intake pipes will get dirty, this is normal. Your engine burns fuel, and carbon is a by product. This is also why your oil goes black, it's normal. Throttle bodies and IACs *should* be cleaned regularly, though most mechanics will not look at it until there is an issue with the car. It can be time consuming as to clean it properly requires removal of the TB, intake hose, disconnecting all the cables and hoses, etc etc. Some TBs also have coolant bypasses in them, and you need to top up the coolant after reinstalling the TB.

If your issue is caused by a dirty TB/IAC, clean it. Do not install the "FICD". If you're feeling poor, do it yourself. All you need is carby cleaner, a socket and ratchet set, a few old rags/t-shirts and patience. Alternatively if you're lazy, buy yourself a bottle of Seafoam and run it through a vacuum hose.
*
..the symptom stated by ur posted i kena all..when release throttle pedal..car feel jerk a while..but installed a FICD is the only way to solve my idling problem..coz my ISC is melted..the only way is change throttle body? btw..i am driving an iswara convert to injeksen and i did not connected the ISC socket and use FICD.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
R3Ju7Ce
post Sep 22 2010, 10:48 AM


Oops ... My Heart break d ...
****
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 658

Joined: Jun 2005
From: ~ SeTaPaK ~


My car now facing the RPM fluctuate when my air-cond is turning off, but when my air-cond switch on to the MAX level and the RPM will stable back to normal .. I have done the Servo gear replacing and TB cleaning .. so what seems to be the problem .. unless alternative solution is to replacing the ISC unit ? or just change a recond TB will do ..
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
yshear
post Jan 17 2011, 05:34 PM


Getting Started
**
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 59

Joined: Oct 2008


hi guys,

i am a lady girl who really dont know much about car..just know to drive..XD

recently my kenari car dashboard appear the " teapot" light, which is the engine light, meaning that something wrong over there. i am also experience the "earthquake" during the car is idle..so i sent it to perodua SC for inspection.

the mechanic told me that the motor inside my kenari's throttle body was spoiled, need to change a new one, which will cost me about RM700 ++++

so guys, could anyone suggest me a cheaper way of solving it?
a)send it to normal workshop and repair?
b) change FICD as suggest by some forumers( i really duno wht is that)
c) or others????

Please help!!!
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
yong88
post Jan 17 2011, 10:41 PM


New Member
*
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 7

Joined: Jul 2008


i will suggest u to repair ur throttle body or rather change a new one but not with FICD..
FICD cannot use with ISC..ue idling will become unstable...
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
the_catacombs
post Jan 18 2011, 05:55 AM


8 stars wooo....
********
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 10,975

Joined: Jan 2003
From: disini disana


QUOTE(yshear @ Jan 17 2011, 05:34 PM)
hi guys,

i am a lady girl who really dont know much about car..just know to drive..XD

recently my kenari car dashboard appear the " teapot" light, which is the engine light, meaning that something wrong over there. i am also experience the "earthquake" during the car is idle..so i sent it to perodua SC for inspection.

the mechanic told me that the motor inside my kenari's throttle body was spoiled, need to change a new one, which will cost me about RM700 ++++

so guys, could anyone suggest me a cheaper way of solving it?
a)send it to normal workshop and repair?
b) change FICD as suggest by some forumers( i really duno wht is that)
c) or others????

Please help!!!
*
teapot means check engine oil level or low on oil pressure... should be nothing to do with ur throttle body... check ur engine oil level first...
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Zaryl
post Jan 18 2011, 05:15 PM


Hardcore Casual Gamer
*****
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 837

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Kedah Khap Khoun Khap (4K)



I'm also facing this problem with my 9 year old Satria. After went to mechanic, cleaned up the TB & checked if the servo gears teeth are broken or whatnot, seemed that they are fine. My mechanic advised me to get a new TB but if i want to continue to use the same TB, no issue but my FC may go up a bit.

Currently my TB will somewhat "auto-throttle" if my speed is dropping to 10kmh, auto-throttle my car back to max 30kmh at gear 2 or gear 3, without me STEPPING on the accelerator. shakehead.gif Also, when idle, the TB will sometimes light-revving my engine, sometimes causing drivers to race with me at traffic lights, even though that wasn't my intention to rev for racing in the first place. hehehe! tongue.gif

I don't mind this condition, as long as my car doesn't stall or heavy jerks during idle. But truthfully, do i really need to change my TB? whistling.gif

This post has been edited by Zaryl: Jan 18 2011, 05:17 PM
User is online!Profile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
the_catacombs
post Jan 18 2011, 06:09 PM


8 stars wooo....
********
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 10,975

Joined: Jan 2003
From: disini disana


QUOTE(Zaryl @ Jan 18 2011, 05:15 PM)
I'm also facing this problem with my 9 year old Satria. After went to mechanic, cleaned up the TB & checked if the servo gears teeth are broken or whatnot, seemed that they are fine. My mechanic advised me to get a new TB but if i want to continue to use the same TB, no issue but my FC may go up a bit.

Currently my TB will somewhat "auto-throttle" if my speed is dropping to 10kmh, auto-throttle my car back to max 30kmh at gear 2 or gear 3, without me STEPPING on the accelerator.  shakehead.gif Also, when idle, the TB will sometimes light-revving my engine, sometimes causing drivers to race with me at traffic lights, even though that wasn't my intention to rev for racing in the first place. hehehe!  tongue.gif

I don't mind this condition, as long as my car doesn't stall or heavy jerks during idle. But truthfully, do i really need to change my TB?  whistling.gif
*
nope u dont need to change ur throttle body... if u dont wanna spend so much servicing ur ISC gears, use FICD... as for ur unstable idling, remove ur throttle body and clean it thoroughly... change new throttle body gasket to prevent manifold leak... check and replace (if necessary) the plastic idle screw nipple...
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
soulfly
post Feb 1 2011, 06:19 PM


revving towards 10,000 rpm
Group Icon
Overclockers United
Group: VIP
Posts: 15,700

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Miri



QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Jan 18 2011, 05:55 AM)
QUOTE(yshear @ Jan 17 2011, 05:34 PM)

hi guys,

i am a lady girl who really dont know much about car..just know to drive..XD

recently my kenari car dashboard appear the " teapot" light, which is the engine light, meaning that something wrong over there. i am also experience the "earthquake" during the car is idle..so i sent it to perodua SC for inspection.

the mechanic told me that the motor inside my kenari's throttle body was spoiled, need to change a new one, which will cost me about RM700 ++++

so guys, could anyone suggest me a cheaper way of solving it?
a)send it to normal workshop and repair?
b) change FICD as suggest by some forumers( i really duno wht is that)
c) or others????

Please help!!!
*
teapot means check engine oil level or low on oil pressure... should be nothing to do with ur throttle body... check ur engine oil level first...
*
agree. please check these things:
- engine oil level: if oil level is low, top up. if it's time for oil change, get it serviced (regular service which is change engine oil and oil filter)

- engine oil pressure: suspect that oil pump breakdown/jammed
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
zendachoo
post Jun 26 2011, 12:59 PM


New Member
*
Group: New Member
Posts: 0

Joined: Jun 2011
QUOTE(yong88 @ Sep 10 2010, 06:10 PM)
..the symptom stated by ur posted i kena all..when release throttle pedal..car feel jerk a while..but installed a FICD is the only way to solve my idling problem..coz my ISC is melted..the only way is change throttle body? btw..i am driving an iswara convert to injeksen and i did not connected the ISC socket and use FICD.
*
how can i install this into 2000years wira 1.5 (A)?is it suit for this type of car?


Added on June 26, 2011, 1:00 pm
QUOTE(skyther @ Aug 19 2010, 01:21 AM)
Allright, I'm not a mechanic by trade, but I've worked on cars enough to know that some of the solutions offered here will do your car more harm than good.

That "FICD" posted above is a Vacuum Switched Valve (VSV) that opens up whenever +12V is applied to it. VSVs are used for EVAP and EGR control, *NOT* for idle control. All it does in this instance create an air bypass from your intake straight into the manifold. Wiring it up to your A/C compressor will cause your idle to go up to 1.5k - 2k RPM. There is no form of idle "control" here. In EFI engines, this will kill your fuel consumption and cause other issues like your car jerking/surging forward when you release your brake pedal, or even cause shifting issues if you have an auto transmission. This is because your ECU is no longer able to properly control the idle and will think you have a vacuum leak.I know some people are going to flame me for this, saying there are no issues with this setup, but trust me, this would cost manufacturers at most $5 to implement, and if it were this simple they would. Car manufacturers know more than you about their own engines. This "FICD" is not intended to supplement or replace your engine's idle control method. If your car wasn't designed with one, you shouldn't be using it.

user posted image

^ This is the device that Toyota uses to control idle. It's called an Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. It contains a stepper motor that is controlled by the ECU to vary the amount of air going into the engine to control idle. If you turn your A/C on, your ECU tells the IAC to open a little more to increase idle to compensate. Newer cars that have drive-by-wire/electronic throttle control may not have this as the ECU controls the idle by directly adjusting the throttle valve. This is also partially the reason why certain D-B-W cars accelerate very suddenly with slight movement of the throttle pedal - because the throttle butterfly is already partially open.

If you have an idle problem, fix the cause at the source.
Fluctuating idle can be caused by a plethora of problems from a dirty throttle body/IAC to electrical issues. I have a feeling you may have electrical issues on yours.

Most cars, when first started up, will idle slightly higher than normal for several minutes to warm the engine up. This is needed mainly to lower emissions, but also because every modern engine is designed with an optimum operating temperature range. Catalytic converters also require warming up to work efficiently, as does your engine oil as it's viscosity lowers as it warms up.

If your idle keeps fluctuating, you could have a faulty coolant temperature sensor. I would also check the AFM/MAF/MAP (whatever you have on your car - all does the same job, measure air volume) and the oxygen sensor (on your exhaust manifold/header pipe) in case one of them is causing your car to run in open loop. It can also be something as simple as a dirty throttle body to something nasty like a faulty ECU. I'd get the car checked by a mechanic who knows what he's doing.
For the love of God, do NOT seal your throttle body with silicone/RTV/FIPG, they are to be used as gaskets in oil pans and valve covers where hot oil is an issue, NOT throttle bodies. It is a b*tch to remove; your mechanic will hate you and will scratch the hell out of your throttle body trying to clean it all off.

-------------------------------------------------------------

Throttle bodies / IACs / intake pipes will get dirty, this is normal. Your engine burns fuel, and carbon is a by product. This is also why your oil goes black, it's normal. Throttle bodies and IACs *should* be cleaned regularly, though most mechanics will not look at it until there is an issue with the car. It can be time consuming as to clean it properly requires removal of the TB, intake hose, disconnecting all the cables and hoses, etc etc. Some TBs also have coolant bypasses in them, and you need to top up the coolant after reinstalling the TB.

If your issue is caused by a dirty TB/IAC, clean it. Do not install the "FICD". If you're feeling poor, do it yourself. All you need is carby cleaner, a socket and ratchet set, a few old rags/t-shirts and patience. Alternatively if you're lazy, buy yourself a bottle of Seafoam and run it through a vacuum hose.
*
how can i install this into years2000 wira auto? is suitable for this type of car?

This post has been edited by zendachoo: Jun 26 2011, 01:00 PM
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
maddriver
post Jun 26 2011, 01:19 PM


the madman!
******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 1,136

Joined: Oct 2006
From: maddriversgarage, where else?


QUOTE(zendachoo @ Jun 26 2011, 03:59 PM)
how can i install this into 2000years wira 1.5 (A)?is it suit for this type of car?


Added on June 26, 2011, 1:00 pm
how can i install this into years2000 wira auto? is suitable for this type of car?
*
no. not a plug and play item.....
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
zendachoo
post Jun 26 2011, 01:29 PM


New Member
*
Group: New Member
Posts: 0

Joined: Jun 2011
QUOTE(maddriver @ Jun 26 2011, 01:19 PM)
no. not a plug and play item.....
*
then how to do it and the cost about all item?got instruction?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
maddriver
post Jun 26 2011, 09:27 PM


the madman!
******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 1,136

Joined: Oct 2006
From: maddriversgarage, where else?


QUOTE(zendachoo @ Jun 26 2011, 04:29 PM)
then how to do it and the cost about all item?got instruction?
*
best to just get another throttle body.no point going through all that trouble......
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
thamjk
post Sep 8 2011, 12:52 PM


New Member
*
Group: New Member
Posts: 2

Joined: Oct 2004


QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Aug 19 2010, 12:35 AM)
dat day i went my local sparepart shop enquire about ISC repair kit... he said now they came up with an easier solution...

user posted image

user posted image

it bolts directly to the throttle body, replacing this unit...

user posted image

user posted image

the ISC socket still plugs in, but with removal of coolant lines inside the throttle body... it works the same with less damage coz heated coolant no longer flows into the throttle body.... but somehow, the thing is still made of plastic and will melt, as what often happens to faulty throttle bodies... this stuff cost rm150, can easily diy change, if u know how to remove the throttle body urself....

user posted image

this is what conventional ISC repair kit consist of... plastic gears inside the ISC... if the bottom black plastic thing melts, changing this alone wont help...
or else, jz custom a metal/aluminum plate and block the whole thing off and use FICD to control ur a/c idle rpm...

user posted image
*
This is a common problem for wira. I can list out the problem generally experience by driver and reply from the workshop.


Most workshop will ask the driver to replace the whole thing when they see the black rubber thing is melting. Some claim the motherboard in it got problem but never able to explain what extact problem. Some will say the engine temperature is too hot thats why it melt.

But however I can give you the reason why the back thing is melting. It happen usually when your plastic gearing get stuck, that is where your engine having idealing problem. when the gearing broke, it stuck the motor from running, but the ECU keep sending the motor to run, it will overheat after a while. There is no motherboard inside the black thing it just a wiring, 7 silver wiring in it. Imagine if you claim the motor shaft and you supply current to force the motor turn. what will happen , smoke from the motor right, and sometime smoke from the wiring too...

because the motor stuck, the wire inside the black thing become overheat and it melt the rubber.

the only preventive solution is service the the gearing regularly. because after sometime the grease inside the gearing come stickly. it create more pressure to the motor. It is more stickly early in the morning when u start you car.... and this is where the time is get over heat before then engine warm up.

Get a workshop that can service this for you... to my suprise, even proton service centre not able to do that..... and they not even know that need to be service....











User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
mmuahaha
post Dec 5 2011, 12:36 PM


New Member
*
Group: New Member
Posts: 0

Joined: Sep 2011
QUOTE(thamjk @ Sep 8 2011, 12:52 PM)
This is a common problem for wira. I can list out the problem generally experience by driver and reply from the workshop.
Most workshop will ask the driver to replace the whole thing when they see the black rubber thing is melting. Some claim the motherboard in it got problem but never able to explain what extact problem. Some will say the engine temperature is too hot thats why it melt.

But however I can give you the reason why the back thing is melting. It happen usually when your  plastic gearing get stuck, that is where your engine having idealing problem. when the gearing broke, it stuck the motor from running, but the ECU keep sending the motor to run, it will overheat after a while. There is no motherboard inside the black thing it just a wiring, 7 silver wiring in it. Imagine if you claim the motor shaft and you supply current to force the motor turn. what will happen , smoke from the motor right, and sometime smoke from the wiring too...

because the motor stuck, the wire inside the black thing become overheat and it melt the rubber.

the only preventive solution is service the the gearing regularly. because after sometime the grease inside the gearing come stickly. it create more pressure to the motor. It is more stickly early in the morning when u start you car.... and this is where the time is get over heat before then engine warm up.

Get a workshop that can service this for you... to my suprise, even proton service centre not able to do that..... and they not even know that need to be service....
*
my throttle body black rubber melt d.. is it mean that the wire inside it also melt d? actually what is the function of that socket? can i just replace that part or need to replace the whole ISC?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
xxboxx
post Dec 5 2011, 02:25 PM


Be like water
*******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 2,399

Joined: Oct 2004
From: J@Y B33


QUOTE(mmuahaha @ Dec 5 2011, 12:36 PM)
my throttle body black rubber melt d.. is it mean that the wire inside it also melt d? actually what is the function of that socket? can i just replace that part or need to replace the whole ISC?
*
Your idling got problem? If no problem just use it till got problem.

ISC have to be replaced as whole, they didn't sell it by parts.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
mmuahaha
post Dec 5 2011, 02:57 PM


New Member
*
Group: New Member
Posts: 0

Joined: Sep 2011
QUOTE(xxboxx @ Dec 5 2011, 02:25 PM)
Your idling got problem? If no problem just use it till got problem.

ISC have to be replaced as whole, they didn't sell it by parts.
*
not really got problem.. previously it keep stall when i start the car and the rpm drop a lot till <200rpm when turn on aircond, so i bought a recond throttle body.. but after install more worst, it keep on rev up and down.. mad.gif then i install back the old 1, but i gatal and open the ISC gear to see. nothing broken inside. so after install b, it become normal like last time pula.. sweat.gif so i sell off the recond 1 after i change with the shop. although it wont rev up and down, but when on aircond it drop a lot also ( better compare to before) about 400rpm.. my problem is now it wont rev up to warm up engine at morning.. can it be solved by tuning? or just unplug battery to reset the ECU?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
vr2turbo
post Dec 5 2011, 03:48 PM


New Member
*
Group: New Member
Posts: 0

Joined: Oct 2009


That unit is to control the idling. If damaged idling drops when air con cuts in.....
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Ashtrix
post Jan 15 2012, 10:13 PM


New Member
*
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 11

Joined: Oct 2010
Try service/change my TB gear, believe me it easy. Mad idling gone already.

This post has been edited by Ashtrix: Jan 16 2012, 11:28 AM


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
tncha4
post Feb 22 2012, 11:58 AM


New Member
*
Group: New Member
Posts: 0

Joined: Oct 2010
This morning I experience flunctuatin idle, wild, it will like earthquake, stall. and, when i WOT, it can suddenly jerk, like the throttle closed entirely.

I drive wira 1.6sohc. I tried to clean TB myself once using petrol. But during the installation etc, i broke the isc socket (crack on the cover), like, cause its covered with greasy thing, i was not sure that was a melted socket, or grease. So, i pulled pretty hard and it got a crack now. Will it be a problem? When i got my car, already got FCID installed. Should i remove it?

So what should i do? What could go wrong? Possibly ISC? and by the way, how to check whether stepper motor functioning? air flow senser function? Thanks guys.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Arsenalism
post Mar 25 2012, 08:13 PM


New Member
*
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 17

Joined: Jun 2011


QUOTE(tncha4 @ Feb 22 2012, 11:58 AM)
This morning I experience flunctuatin idle, wild, it will like earthquake, stall. and, when i WOT, it can suddenly jerk, like the throttle closed entirely.

I drive wira 1.6sohc. I tried to clean TB myself once using petrol. But during the installation etc, i broke the isc socket (crack on the cover), like, cause its covered with greasy thing, i was not sure that was a melted socket, or grease. So, i pulled pretty hard and it got a crack now. Will it be a problem? When i got my car, already got FCID installed. Should i remove it?

So what should i do? What could go wrong? Possibly ISC? and by the way, how to check whether stepper motor functioning? air flow senser function? Thanks guys.
*
same case with my SEG..the RPM meter up and down like eartquake M/C call what? I think the stepper NG..

This post has been edited by Arsenalism: Mar 25 2012, 08:14 PM
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Walter Liew
post Sep 20 2012, 06:38 AM


New Member
*
Group: New Member
Posts: 0

Joined: Sep 2012
QUOTE(triads418 @ Mar 9 2008, 11:29 PM)
my proton wira aeroback 1.5 auto have this problem recently...i start the car for a while then the engine stall
so i went to mechanic and ask him to clean the throttle body, check the air filter...then when he put everything back and tune it with a computer device he said the circuit board in the throttle body going to spoil already...so he advised me to wait until it complete gone then change a new one....

my question is which circuit board he's referring to ? i ask him izzit to throttle body that he clean b4 that...see this picture
http://www.hitachi-hap.com/products/Control_Units/etcu.jpg
or something else bcos i didnt see any circuit board on it

if that's the one i want to know the price range for a reliable/performance brand other than proton...

personally i dun feel like waiting for the thing to die out...so i want to change it asap
*

Added on September 20, 2012, 6:57 am
QUOTE(Walter Liew @ Sep 20 2012, 06:38 AM)
*
Hi,

I am also using the wira 1.5 auto that perhaps uses the same part as yours.

I had problem with this throttle for many years and had been keep on changing it. I had came to a point where I was
truly not convince with foreman who are not electronically sound.

I came to a point I started to check on it myself.

So I started to use an electronic scope to diagnose all the throttle pin and all signal goes according as expected. But
occasionally the system still failed.

Finally I manage to figure out that the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) will stop controlling the throttle body once it loses
any signal from the throttle body. It will only control it back once you restart your engine.

Let me share with you how it works.

1. Once to turn ON the ignition key (without starting) , you should hear a SOUND like 'he he ta ta ta tak'. This is the
most important clue telling you that the ECU is calibrating the throttle body opening valve angle. Try again you
will find it happen everytime.
2. If step 1 happens each time, this means that your ECU and throttle are communicating and it should work.
3. Start your engine NOW. Then after a while try turn ON the air-con. You should see the RPM rises (abt 0.5sec)
before you aircon physically turn ON. This means that the ECU is working properly.
4. When you turn OFF, the aircon, the RPM should rise first and then drop back to the point when you starting your
car.
5. Slightly engage the gear (ie N to D) making the lamp D ON without physically lock the gearbox, you again should
see the RPM rise. Repeat doing this you will find the RPM rises each time you try to engage the gear.

All the above are important clues telling that you throttle system is working.

As I know for WIRA(older model) it can still work without throttle body. You can try to unplug the connector to the
throttle body. Your car should start and the engine will not die off.

The engine only dies when the throttle try to work but work wrongly.

Note: Wander why I knew all this??? I am an electronic designer who write MCU programs and fully understand
how the program should behave. Meantime I am in the process of designing a throttle analyser hoping to
relief many foreman ignorance on this item.

Thanks.
Liew


Added on September 20, 2012, 9:55 am
QUOTE(usus @ Mar 28 2008, 10:33 AM)
thanks for the feedback...
the good thing is that no problemo with idling.
But stepper value is 0 always. After cleaning TB & induction box, my car maintains 900rpm no A/C. 300-400rpm on A/C & no fluctuate, fortunately. I'll just attempt clean stepper motor later on see any good results.
perdana one is same with FTO? 63mm?
*
Hi,

I am Liew.

'But stepper value is 0 always. After cleaning TB & induction box, my car maintains 900rpm no A/C. 300-400rpm on A/C & no fluctuate, fortunately.'

The symptom above is nothing more than telling you that your car throttle body totally fail to operate.
A good throttle will keep your car rpm constant at (probably 800..900rpm) regardless of aircon On/Off.

However your car should still run but just not performing stable and engine shaking only.

Try to get a throttle fix up but make sure the shop give you warranty (i.e 3 to 6 months) otherwise just live with it.
Thanks.
Regards.
Liew


Added on September 20, 2012, 10:09 am
QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Aug 15 2008, 01:20 PM)
dun need to drill hole lah... doh.gif
*
Don't drill hole, it is not the right approach.

The car throttle work to save for fuel at all condition and not only for aircon. Most foreman told u it is just for 'aircon' but in actual fact it is for everyting.

Among them are
1: When you engage gear, the engine rpm increase to prepare you with more power.
2: When you turn ON the headlamp, the rpm also increase.
3: More saving, when you car comes to a complete stop, your rpm reduces further. It is great saving in traffic jam
condition.

Using traditionally air suction valve to regulate for air con is 30 to 40 years technology and it is rather unstable
Thanks.
Liew


Added on September 20, 2012, 10:16 am
QUOTE(usus @ Mar 24 2008, 03:14 PM)
tumpang thread...
if stepper motor is not working, does it have any effect on the car?
*
Some car can work without this servo motor but some cannot live without it. For newer car it is a must.

Thanks.
Liew


Added on September 20, 2012, 10:20 am
QUOTE(viqq @ Aug 17 2008, 02:12 PM)
I heard this is a common problem among wira/satria owners.

I myself having throttle body problems too. The gear inside the throttle body broke and after changed still the same problem which is the RPM go up and down even though I didn't press the accelerator. So mechanic asked me to change throttle body. I got myself a 1.5 model for my 1.3 model which the mechanic said should be compatible. That throttle body didn't come with a gasket so the mechanic made 1 himself.

Ok so everything went well, the RPM doesn't go up and down anymore, but the engine will subsequently die in a sudden. No warning no anything, just die. Also after changing the throttle body so many problems jor.. Even my CHECK ENGINE lights are all gone. Stupid mechanic ar~~ More problems after changing throttle body.
*
I sound like you get a mechanic who knows nothing about electronic. He is just take you for a ride.
All this need knowledge and experience and not simply swap with compatible.

The engine ECU and throttle has to match, otherwise it will not perform as expected.
Regards,
Liew


Added on September 20, 2012, 10:31 am
QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Jan 18 2011, 06:09 PM)
nope u dont need to change ur throttle body... if u dont wanna spend so much servicing ur ISC gears, use FICD... as for ur unstable idling, remove ur throttle body and clean it thoroughly... change new throttle body gasket to prevent manifold leak... check and replace (if necessary) the plastic idle screw nipple...
*
Take note that the throttle mechanism without the motor or gear working , can also ramp up and down.


This can happen if your idling setting is too high and can be nothing to do with the electronics.

Thanks.

This post has been edited by Walter Liew: Sep 20 2012, 10:31 AM
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Bump TopicReply to this topicTopic OptionsStart new topic
 

Switch to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.1431sec    2.00    6 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 18th April 2014 - 11:02 AM