Come ktard, i recommend u the best engine oil there is.

Introducing Valvoline Restore and Protect.

Super Claim:
Cleans 100% carbon deposits and varnishes including in the piston rings after 4 engine oil cycles. No other engine oil claim this before. So this is a BOLD claim.

Testimonials and proofs on youtube. I will only list those easy to confirm by average joes for ktards.
1) Eliminates blowby on the engine oil cap. Easy to try, just unscrew the engine oil cap and see whether it will shake shake push by air when the engine is running.
2) Reduces oil consumption.
3) Totally cleans varnishes inside engine and dipstick. Instead of yellow brown color, it will become silver.

I have been waiting for this engine oil to be sold in malaysia since 2 years ago. Now that its here, I bought 12 bottles together. Enough for 2 cycles and 2 quarts for top up.

2024 bold
2025 valvoline
2026 is what?

Btw, i do agree valvoline is good, especially its PAO one.

Nonono, this valvoline restore and protect is really like f'ing good.
Their first revision of vrp, the cleaning was too aggressive until it literally clean all the gunk and deposits too fast and gunk up the oil filter in 1 cycle. So bye bye engine.

So this is their revised version, safe for the public to use. It still cleans very well and able to maintain the gunk suspended in the oil instead of all clogging up the oil filter. But the cleaning is weaker, 4x weaker hence why the 4 cycles claim.

Anyway those engines can see gunk inside, recommended run 1st cycle like 3000km only. Dont one shot 10000km.

You got use before?

already used, engine very clean

Yeah proven by motor oil geek

Nope. I was using Bold all these while. Then now wan change engine oil brand since Bold company sus abit, then saw the valvoline restore and protect finally sold in malaysia.

Next month will do oil change and use this valvoline. Current oil consumption still at 500ml per 5000km. Wondering if can improve it or not.

Yeah, i saw motor oil geek video also. Very impressive.

But but but harga too yarhoodee I can't afford. Lol

Offer now. Rm48 per quart to rm38 per quart.
Thats why i direct take 12.

Means what? Do elaborate tq

Why waste money on engine oil? Change to car with no engine i.e. EV no need to spend any money on engine oil.

does this shop in shopee sell genuine valvoline oil ? .

4L at Rm113.98 after discount. the price a bit too good to be true

Shorten EO interval to 5k km also can clean up wat

TBH, if your engine got gunk inside, means you didn't change oil on time.

10,000km or 6 months or less change oil won't build gunk in your engine.

can mix 80bold:20vulvaline1quack to clean the injin slowly?

Its in quart and its rm39 per quart. Before is rm48

10000km mostly highway ok. Mostly city no. Proven and shown by many engine builders

Also, most bmw vw engine makan minyak after just few years. Because their maintenance 10k km.

This post has been edited by Balanced: Sep 25 2025, 04:21 PM

Can but nt recommended

Yes. But apparently cant clean all especially at the piston ring and oil holes for piston. So i try.

wat abut 98bold:2diesel to cuci injin slowslow?

I think better use bold and valvoline

I am tempted to get this. Just 500km overdue from 10K yesterday. Either the RM140 genuine toyota or this RM170 valvoline.

can give link for Valvoline engine oil ?

too many fake outside. scary

Good for motorcycles?

me 7,000km in 1 year. dirty a f.

u buy from who? confirm original?

Your engine burning oil? Need so much?

his car seports car one , run on RON100

This post has been edited by JimbeamofNRT: Sep 25 2025, 05:32 PM

No confirm, but that is the only seller in shoppe/lazada. And he only sells valvoline so...hopefully its genuine hehe.
Plus this one not famous yet, maybe no counterfeit yet hehe.

My car 1 cycle use almost 5L. 5 quartz ngam ngam. 1 quart for top up as it makan around 400-500ml for 5000km. 260hp engine, k20a type r.

Gg

Ron95 sahaja. Cheap n powderful

Actually, its within the engine tolerance for this engine + i always bukakke vtec hit 8k rpm almost daily

Isn't it like mild engine flush? Never trust flush,scared sludges stuck here n there

Their first formula was too effective at removing the sludges. So the sludges didnt soften and gets trapped in the oil filters.

Their current formula works more slowly and able to suspend the sludges in the oil, means break it into very small particles, so no problem like their first formula or like engine flush. Hence their claims need 4 cycles to fully clean

Ester is so yesterdays.

Alkylated naphthalene the new.king.

I dont think its only due to ester. They have their secret formula la of course. People claims its better than marvel mystery oil, seaform, and other engine flushes.

Just put in engine flush and drive for 100+km, then change engine oil

Do this alternately or when necessary

Thats the good thing about Valvoline now is that it is a cold brand in Malaysia. Cincai search inside shopee, every bottle size is in quart and nothing is cheap. Very littles sellers. If after a few months in and this brand suddenly blows up, then fakes will start to appear.

Its exactly the same scenario with the Toyota GF-6A tin can oil that i am using now. When i started using it last year, it was not sold in shopee at all. After 1 year the fakes started coming in.

So the % of you getting fake now is almost zero with that observation. I will probably check out spare parts shop to see if it is also being sold there.

Good for higher mileage cars eh? 100k km+

Yup. Or any cars that just started having oil consumption issues.

I always wanted to do engine flush on the 300000 km myvi. But the time and cost is really a deterrent. But now seems like can do it in an economical fashion. Just maybe need to change oil filter 2 -3 times.

sure not confusing miles with km? most mechanics recommend 5k miles or 6 month which converts to about 8k+ km

Yeah, 10k km.

ok well, I'll just follow my car service interval.

Fyi car's service interval takes into consideration the 'lifetime' of the vehicle. If u wan use more than 10 years, better dont follow the 10k km intervals. Its so that they attract more customers coz they can promote cheap maintenance!

Its fine, my oil will reach 6 months before 10k km usually around 7-8k km after 6 months

Better than Hipro veltorQ V9 Sae 5W-40 4L? I just put it into my exora bold, and oh my the engine runs very smooth. My exora's ODO is around 120k. First time I tried it. Btw Hipro seems like a legit brand as it has its own factory

Yes initially i was going to try hipro V9 5w40. Then suddenly saw this valvoline protect already able to get in malaysia, so i bought this valvoline instead. I was looking at this and even inquire to get overseas since 2 years ago. But shipping fees too expensive.

Hipro is very legit and should be very good.
Engine runs very smooth compare to?

Very smooth compared to before. Before this I mostly use Petronas Syntium 800 for my exora bold. Anyway I also just changed my spark plug, so not sure if that contributes to my engine's smoothness. Anyway this Valvoline is about double the price of Hipro. Not sure it will be better for my exora or not, but when I asked ChatGPT, basically it says:

For your situation, here’s what I lean towards:

If engine is still healthy, not burning much oil, you keep oil change intervals reasonably frequent (say every 7-10k km or whatever Proton recommends):
→ Hipro VeltorQ V9 5W-40 is a strong choice. The thickness at operating temps helps protect your worn parts, the PAO + ester blend gives good film strength, and the low SAPS additives help longevity.

If your engine has build up/sludge, has been using low quality oil previously, or you care a lot about cleaning and restoring performance:
→ Valvoline Restore & Protect could help. But maybe use it for a couple of oil changes then consider switching to a robust oil like the Hipro. Also, you might want the Restore & Protect grade in 5W-40, if available, to match temperature protection.

If you notice oil burning, leaks, or the car tends to run hot at load, I'd choose a 5W-40 (like Hipro) for better protection.

No such thing la. Mechanical parts does not works that way. If service interval of 10k works well, then it gonna works forever unless there are parts due to wear and tear.

Only if everythg else stays the same, which it doesnt.
Thats why engines last longer with faster oil change intervals.

Case in point, which u can see with engine that equips with low tension piston rings. These engines usually by 100k km already having high oil consumptions. With 10k km oil change intervals, 50k mileage engine still ok. So by your logic its gonna last forever? No.
But if these engines undergoes oil change 5k km intervals, its still ok far after 100k km.

This post has been edited by Balanced: Sep 25 2025, 11:43 PM

100k km is chicken shit nowadays. I have been maintaining 2 of my parents cars, 2002 and 2006 cars, both hitting over 300k km, no issue at all. 2002 5k interval follow manual, 2006 10k interval follow manual too. Seriously, no a single shit problem like eating engine oil and etc.

And guess what, the 2006 engine with more than 300k km mileage is still using 0w20 oil. There are multiple 'genius' foremen I had met throughout the years that keep telling shits like 'old car must use high viscosity oil to protect old engine'. As usual, I don't give a f on them and until today my ca3 got no issue.

Keypoint is, maintain your car as per manual and don't skip any maintenance. And don't stinge on buying fake oils or unknown branded oil. Remember, it's MECHANICAL.

Ermm...this is not due to mechanical. This is due to oil degradation due to high mileage.

U have two data points and your argument is it still works. It will be better if u open up the engine and see how much varnishes is inside the engine, that would be more convincing. But if thats too hard for u, u can see around the world. Learn from others experiences and discoveries.

Not all engines running 300k km with 10k intervals will have issues. Not all engines running 300k km with 5k intervals will not have issues. But there are more issues with 10k intervals than 5k km intervals.

And don't be bias towards data given to u or just shut your eyes to the discoveries done by those people working on the engines. Even the famed nissan gtr engine builder says 5k km with normal genuine oil is better than the best 10k km genuine oil. That gotta have some weigh to it. Take it in, dont be bias to your views due to two data only.

And dont disregarding the issues with low piston rings having issues after 100k km with 10k km mileage intervals. More issues with low piston rings because its weaker hence the symptoms shows up more. Means there are issues with 10k km and it accelerates more if its more of city drive.

This post has been edited by Balanced: Sep 26 2025, 12:19 AM

but varnishes doesn't harm engine at all. its normal for any engine to have some varnish

This post has been edited by Sichiri: Sep 26 2025, 12:54 AM

I wanna know what car engine uses 0/20 made in year 2006. 🤔

2008 Myvi 1.3L uses 5/30 out of box. So am curious what supercar is that.

Ya varnish doesnt harm the engine. However if u can see varnishes, those prone to carbon deposit areas like at the piston rings and piston oil passage ways almost guaranteed to have some degree of carbon. The longer it goes, the more carbon will slowly build up.

The varnish just shows that there are carbon developing in the engine.

Thats what engine oil is suppose to do. remove the carbon by continuous flow. Any engine oil can do this, no need special 'cleaning' oil.
Heck, even Bold Oil is enough lol.

Nothing beats your change your oil earlier . You engine will be super clean . Instead of 10kkm change ,why not change it at 7kkm.

I see..Let me rephrase that bolded part. Instead of the varnish show carbon is developing in the engine, its supposed to be the varnish shows that carbon is not fully cleaned from the engine. There will be accumulation of carbon if it continues.


Hmmm. How do i make it clearer.. varnishes means there were deposits, hence it changes color even on the metal. Means not 100% clean all. Those exposed parts away from hotspots will be ok due to the varnishes cannot get thicker as the oil is still capable. But those super hot and tight spaces, the carbon is baked and it will slowly build up there. Especially at the piston rings lands.
Dont have to take my word for it...research abit on 10k oil change practices and see what they find. There were reports on gunk forming, especially on mostly city drive.

And yes even bold is enough, as long as u dont drive 10k km in city. My car having oil consumption due to previous owner do prolong oil change intervals. Its was over 1L initially. When i got it, i change every 5k km and it slowly improves. Now its consuming around 400-500ml.

Anyway, those varnishes u see on high mileage engine, it can be clean until silver shining back with the valvoline protect.

This post has been edited by Balanced: Sep 26 2025, 02:00 AM

I agree with gunk forming in tight spaces around piston rings, I use this video as reference :

But this was caused by 10,000 MILES oil change interval, not KM!

As the guy says, change your oil every 5000 MILES (not KM) or 6 months, and you will have no problems

(this advice is for Toyota engines only)

Yeah angmoh land 10000 miles, even toyota reliable engines die fast. And they have stretches and stretches of long roads.

In malaysia roads, i have seen engine rebuilds that changes oil at 10000km and talked to the mechanics. 10000km will have varnishes and some gunk especially if mostly driven on town. I have seen the insides of malaysian's cars engines, hence i always recommend people to change earlier. If wan to use the cars for 9 years or 200k km, i think can just follow the 10k km if written on their manual book.

Btw my friend's vw arteon engine, 3rd year, below
30k mileage already started consuming oil 1L/5000km. And its normal on these engines too. 10000km oil change intervals. And VW says its normal to consume oil lol. Many having these issues until its already the norm. Confirm not engine cylinder walls worn as its using low tension piston rings. Those rings confirm stuck by carbon. Even with just abit of carbon it will get those low tension rings stuck easily. This is the proof of carbon forming at the pistons with 10000km in malaysia. Normal piston rings will be able to retain its function longer.

The fake oil are true here hence i will buy only from shopee mall seller.

Kinda disagree. Most car with using fully synthetic no issues to take it till 10k km interval, hnece most Japanese brand put it at there. Conti brand with a more environment conscious thing, make it till 15k km interval (by using fully synthetic), also no issue.

Had car with 380k km with 10k-13k km service intervals, no issues. Just make sure if got oil diminished after sometimes, it must be due to leak somewhere, like valve cover gasket or major at flywheel oil seal. Repair that, then no problem in a long run

Be it a Honda, better send for flywheel oil seal check considering high mileage. Mine kene at 230k km, and change together all the seal one go. Burn almost rm1.6k at my regular workshop. Ask TikTok workshop, straight quoted rm3k+ all in free engine oil

Yeah bro same like u OCd EO short intervals, my new cars even during warranty I go in between outside SC oil change every 3 mths

This post has been edited by DM3: Sep 26 2025, 10:38 AM

come to think of it, I might repack back , say, bold EO into fake valvoline bottle

still can make some decent $

go search in shop33

RM20.70 only. genuine TCM from S Mall

Tan Chong Nissan Liqui Moly TC-Liqui Moly Engine Flush (300ml)

300ml is sufficient for up to 6L of motor oil.
Made in Germany
Produced exclusively by Liqui Moly for Tan Chong Motor
For cleaning and flushing out the oil circuits of gasoline or diesel engines. Not suitable for use on motorbikes with wet clutches.



This post has been edited by JimbeamofNRT: Sep 26 2025, 10:09 AM

Can share shop name?

Amsoil is the bestest

rm98 for 946 ml
need 5 bottles

TS' engine probably full of debris from using too much recycled crap that now need to stick back to expensive EO in hopes of restoration.

Not all will have issues, but more issues with 10k km. If cars with low tension piston rings, 100k km already almost all facing eating engine oil.
Lots of issues, maybe u are not aware. Go to vw, bmw, audi group and check out. Oil consumption has become a 'non issue' because its already considered 'normal'.
My friend's vw arteon 3 years old, 30k+ km, 10k oil change intervals. Already consuming engine oil.

Wrong. Its improving in my hand.
Fact is previous owner didnt take care much and its consuming engine oil at more than 1L/5000km.
When i got it, i change engine oil every 5000km. Now its only consuming 400-500ml/5000km.

Weiiii dont laaaaa

Some how H with 1.5t will have increase due to slight dilution oil
My ketam run 144k km no drop at all
Now G10 115k also no drop

There is only 1 seller selling valvoline restore and protect in shopee.i bought it from him.

Because the honda 1.5T is using low tension piston rings. These rings much easier to get stuck with just some carbon.

True also what. unless you buy from Vanli Jln Ipoh and keep a spare at home, which u can do blind test ( by smell ) , other than that, technology nowadays can produce fake stuff at almost nearlee quality

So bro how's the oil? Seems tht VRP, good for LSPi T engines;
Your driving style is considered "severe service," and here’s why this oil is an excellent match for those conditions.

Why Stop-and-Go Driving is So Hard on Your Engine:

1. More Frequent Low-Speed Pre-Ignition (LSPI) Risk: Your 1.5T engine is constantly accelerating from a stop (high load at low RPM), which is the prime condition for LSPI—a major killer of turbocharged engines. Valvoline Restore & Protect is specifically formulated to protect against this.
2. Increased Fuel Dilution: In short-trip driving, the engine rarely reaches its optimal operating temperature for a sustained period. This can lead to unburned fuel leaking past the piston rings and contaminating the oil (a known issue with direct injection engines like yours). This thins the oil and reduces its lubricity. A robust synthetic oil resists this breakdown better.
3. More Engine Wear: Most engine wear happens during cold starts and at low operating temperatures. Your driving pattern consists of many "mini" cold starts and prolonged low-temperature operation.
4. Heat Buildup: Sitting in traffic with the engine running creates significant heat without the strong airflow from driving at speed, putting stress on the oil.

How Valvoline Restore & Protect Specifically Helps:

· Superior Anti-Wear Additives: The "Protect" side of the formula provides an extremely strong film strength that protects engine components even during the frequent low-RPM, high-load acceleration of stop-and-go traffic.
· LSPI Protection: As mentioned, this is its flagship feature for turbo engines and is perfectly suited to your driving style.
· Thermal Stability: It resists thinning out and breaking down under the high heat loads generated in traffic.
· Cleaning Power: It helps prevent the formation of sludge and deposits that can be accelerated by fuel dilution and frequent short trips.

Crucial Recommendation: Shorten Your Oil Change Interval

Given your "severe service" driving conditions, the most important thing you can do—even more important than the brand of oil—is to change your oil more frequently.

· Honda's "Normal" Service Interval: Might be around 10,000-15,000 km.
· Your "Severe Service" Interval Should Be: Every 5,000 - 7,000 km, or every 6 months, whichever comes first.

The restorative and protective additives in the oil get used up over time. In your demanding driving environment, they deplete faster. Changing the oil more often ensures those additives are always fresh and active, protecting your engine.

Final, Tailored Recommendation:

1. Product: Valvoline Restore & Protect High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W-30. The extra seal conditioners and anti-wear additives are ideal for your high-mileage, high-stress driving.
2. Interval: Change it every 6,000 km. This is a safe, effective interval for your usage. Don't wait for 10,000 km.

By using this high-quality oil and adhering to a shorter change interval, you are giving your Accord's turbocharged engine the best possible defense against the harsh reality of daily stop-and-go traffic. This is the perfect strategy for long-term reliability

As read from another thread discuss about engine oil, we can only know if the engine oil are indeed good by oil analysis taken from the used engine oil, where a through details, parameters are shown.

Picture taken for my x70 ckd, which use stock engine oil from Proton SC, from new till warranty ended. They use Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 for 5L.

Mileage taken at 93k km

Yeap, UOA is good analysis. BITOG is EO kitab suci.

Nice, every 10k km serviced or earlier?

10k km interval. on early days (thanks to MCO) car was average 3k-4k per 6 months for service

Synpower is the best Valvoline oil.

My honda no oil consumption problem..... 10k interval serbis.

Looks very clean so far, for your driving style n changing in 10000km, this looks ok. How many km per month? City/highway ratio?



Just wondering this part is it varnish or leftover engine oil? Based on the shape, it looks like varnish. Anyway the most severe part will be at the piston ringlands...since that is hottest.

my cars all 10k km service interval
all full synthetic, using 5w30 and 0W20

So pic taken ,did gasket change?