I am looking for YTZ6V and YTZ10.

Searching online returned wide gap in pricing despite what appears to be same brand/model.

Example YTZ6V can range from RM50 to RM120 for same brand/model.

YTZ10 can cost more than my car battery.

Any idea why the price gap and where can I reliably source these batteries?

pandai-pandai lo

see the shop why offer so low price, other merchandise on sale, reviews etc

if too good to be true, that's probably it

AGM batteries are twice the price even for normal car batteries, so if compare bike AGM vs car flooded, it's close

if want to reliably source, go to a reliable bike shop
if want reliable online source, check their warranty

Good batteries are hard to come by nowadays. Most of the cheaper ones dont seem to last long. Even if they do , you'd be lucky to get 2 years of service from hem.

My dominar is on its 3rd battery (ytx 9) the stocker lasted an astounding 4 years and it was still working when I swapped it out as a precaution to protect the rectifier. The green Tokio battery lasted barely 6 months (80). Now running a yuasa battery (130). Hopefully it does better.

On the NK , I just bought a ytx14zt lithium battery as the stock battery is on its last legs, dropping to 9v on startup if left unused over the weekend. Best to have a standby battery. Got it cheap from 6.6 shopee sale and some coin redemption. Paid 309 for it.

It is comically light though... But I bought it to offset some of the weight from my racks and panniers. My battery is mounted high in the tail so should help with bike balance going with a lighter battery.

If you are considering a lithium battery, bear in mind it does have pros and cons so it may not be suitable for all situations. Glad to explain if you guys want to know why.





This post has been edited by jaycee1: Jun 9 2025, 09:06 AM

Ironically stock batteries doesn't last long for me.

My bike usually left unused for 1-3 months. Usually I return to find the voltage below 9v and will have it charged up before firing up the bike.

Thought about lithium (LiFePo4 to be specific) but our standard charging system might not output the right voltage to charge it.
Please share your experience

This post has been edited by WH4CockcooBird: Jun 9 2025, 09:24 AM

Motorcycle Lithium batteries are built with BMS that is specifically designed with a bike charging system. That said, here are the pros and cons.

Pros
Very light weight, often smaller formfactor, doesnt leak, can be mounted every which way, even upsidedown.
BMS will cut off the battery if it falls below minimum voltage, protecting the cells (for L/A and AGM, once the battery discharges, sulfication occurs and damages the battery)
Low self discharge rate
Excellent amp draw

Cons
Equivalent Lithiums typically only have 1/2 the reserve capacity of same "sized" AGM. This is because lithium battery manufacturers follow the CCA of regular AGM to "size" the battery. My new lithium ytx14zt is 76whr, while the factory AGM is at 144whr. So read the specs carefully.
Not good in cold weather (does not apply to us, see below)
Can explode and catch fire spontaneously (hehehehehe.... especially charged when very cold) Lithiums need a short warm up to wake up (by turning on ACC and lights) before operating below freezing temperature.

So depending on your needs, if you got an infrequently used bike with inherent high standby draw (pretty much any new modern bike especially those with keyless, always on gps, security systems), Lithiums may not be suitable, but if you have a very old bike with no electronics, the low self discharge rate of lithium will be better. And all bikes will benefit from the much lighter weight.



If you have an infrequently used bike, in order to protect the L/A AGM battery, you have to invest in a trickle charger anyway. Any full discharge damage may be irreversible....as it may not charge up to full capacity anymore and it would only get worst over time. My cheap tokio Ytx9 has one full discharge and it turned into a paperweight, even using a pulse charger didn't bring it back alive. More expensive AGMs may be more resistant, but chemistry is chemistry.

Im still hoping Lithium battery manufacturers will put in a USB type C charging port so i can just stick a power bank and charge it. Sure they need a more complex dual input BMS...but I can dream.

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Jun 9 2025, 10:16 AM

Please plan a teardown of the Dynavolt once it's done
I thought the same, but... unfortunately, some Lithium packs don't actually have BMS

This isnt a battery issue man...this is a user issue...if u know ur bike is unused for 2 weeks or more u should really remove the terminals from the battery. Any battery u use will drain with that kinda non usage.

There are systems in ur bike that still requires some low amounts of power when the bike is off...like ur clock..internal memory for ur settings, mileage etc..

This is same for any vehicle...starting the bike/car at least once a week for 5-10 mins is more than enough to keep the battery alive. Also helps to keep ur internals lubricated.

Pretty sure something like the dynavolt battery will have a BMS. At least it says in its spec. Plus with the battery display, im sure its driven by the BMS.

Will keep the teardown in mind when its done for...if not just to humour you. Hahahaha

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Jun 9 2025, 11:02 AM

Hello TS, VRLA battery (YTZ series)cost more than conventional MF lead acid battery. Need to do survey in order to get better prices..

1 more thing.. if u plan to buy Yuasa YTZ battery, plz open the box & chk the DOM. Some shops has "over idling" (>8 mth) stock which can lead to shorter usage life span.

mostly are directly connected, with active balancer

This post has been edited by alexei: Jun 10 2025, 09:17 AM

I have installed a 2-way USB charger and it's working like a charm everytime I come back to charge the battery with my power bank.

Yes I am not prepared to open up the battery that's well hidden in my scooter to unplug it, and come home to reconnect it before I can use.

Thanks for the info.

Guess I will have to ride around to find the battery.

This is what I noticed too. It negate the purpose of leaving it unused for long period of time with slow drain from bike's electronics (e.g. alarm) even when bike is off.

maybe install a battery cut off switch at a more convenient location. the constant draining of the battery like that and recharging it can also reduce lifespan significantly

This issue is happening on all my vehicles.

so its user problem . hahahahahahahahaha


I would do what madmen suggests. Install an inline cut off switch. But then again you will loose the alarm.

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Jun 9 2025, 02:31 PM

Not intend to install the cutoff.

Gonna leave it as a problem

I use this in both our cars since my wife is no longer in the country and I seldom drive. Cheap and cheerful on Shoppee. For bikes however, there simply isn't enough room under the seat to accommodate this thing... if there is any in the first place.

The battery in my Ninja 400 died the other day and not knowing better, I got it swapped with the green Tokiohama, even paid 200 for it because I had someone send and change it without knowing how simple it was to replace myself. Was in the middle of work and didn't have time to check my options. Not sure if it's just a crappy battery or poor installation, but now my bike weirdly has to be in upright position to start normally, otherwise I would have to crank it 3-4 times just to start the bike.

Another astounding bit is that my bike was manufactured in 2019 and registered in 2022, and although it's seen little use, it's miraculous that the battery last 6 years. It's a FTX9-BS made by Furukawa Thailand.

Man...you paid 200 for that green turd. My tokio was 90.

That starting issue is a weird one. Notice if the crank speed is lower than previously? On my ytx9, it cranks slow, then fails to crank at all. Like not pushing enough amps.

I paid ~700 for a Lithium (label says Lifepo4), so far 2nd year but it's a low usage bike. once it was left there for 6 months, and still able to start the bike

Now I'm just gonna get RC LiPo 4S and connect them to my bike and use as is

Yea, after I witnessed how easy it was to replace the battery, I instantly regretted it, and I actually replaced the battery in my EX5 before which was even more difficult to access.

By the way, how difficult is it to DIY a voltmeter / USB charger? I looked around on YouTube and it seemed as if everyone had a different way of doing it, some said there's cable where you can directly access at the handle, others have to source the power from the battery.

Just got myself a 1/2 and 1/4 ratchet set, gonna start working on my bike more.

Not difficult at all. The easiest way (but not the best) is just to wire up direct to battery.

The proper way, is to use a relay, to a switched power, so the charger is only on when the bike is running. I personally use a relay/aux fusebox on my bikes, either custom, or bought from shopee. A few of us here are running this compact little unit. Good enough for accessories and smaller fog lights. Under 50rm usually with discounts.



For switched power source, usually i will tap a less important circuit like the tail light. Some bikes may have a switched fuse, or an accessories power port somewhere in the fairing. Depends on the bike.


I prefer a switched source, in case some itchy finger turns on your USB charger and you end up with a flat battery. I also prefer the aux fusebox route, for the fact, all my accesories are running on an independent circuit and easy to trouble shoot. I do my own wiring loom for my accesories and all terminated with waterproof automotive connecters so everything is plug and play if i needed to replace anything.

FWIW, dont charge a big phone or anything big, without the bike running. a big device like my 13200mah phone can drain a moto battery real quick.

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Jun 21 2025, 11:25 AM

Your 13200mah phone looks like a good candidate to reverse charge bike battery too using a 2 way USB charger

btw, what phone is that?

its one of those big battery china ruggud phone. Mine is the ulefone Power armour 13. And yes, it does reverse charging, both wired and wireless. unbreakable. coming up to 4 years now.

guess like engine oil... there are many fake batt our there ? am a noob when comes to battery... saw some yuasa made in japan , any super diff compare to normal yuasa. wish all these batt will have official site in shopee/lazada, so ppl dont get con buying fake, if any.

Not say fake la.. just a abysmal products sold as premium product. XD

Update: My bike couldn't start again after I rode a short distance. When I push the starter, I can only hear the fuel pump and relay clicks but no cranking, similar to the symptoms when my stock battery died. I have narrowed it down to the battery because I could push start my bike running down a slope. I would advise everyone to avoid the green Tokiohama batteries widely available on Shopee, it's a big piece of crap. When I was doing my research for batteries to buy, quite a few riders on FB mentioned they swapped to this and the battery died within 5 ~ 6 months. In fact, my bike would intermittently not start if I didn't have rides longer than 15 minutes each time.

Did some research and narrowed it down to a few choices I found on Shopee:

Thai-X (RM150) - A lot of recommendations in FB groups.

Nippon G.R.P. (RM150) - MForce batteries that came with the RT3 scooters. Reviews seem a mix bag though.

Dynavolt (RM188) - Somewhat reputable Chinese battery.

Most likely getting the Thai-X.

you gotta figure out the output voltage that the battery is getting before deciding which battery type to get
if 14.4V then cannot use Gel battery

AGM < 15V
Normal < 14.7V or 13.8V (when full)
Gel < 14.4V or 13.8V (when full) - very sensitive to overcharging

JustForFun
this is from manual, 14.5~14.9V. you should try to measure it. if this is the case, the bike cannot use Gel battery, the charging system will over-volt it and kill it within weeks

Its not brand problem is but online shop problem Why dont buy at shop. You expect online stuff have same quality as those in shop

I got the E-YT12A-BS, which does not mention anything about whether it's gel or AGM, all it says is it's maintenance free (MF) type.

Checking with the seller though, thanks for the advice.

If it doesnt say its either GEL or AGM, most likely it isn't. Those AGMs can cost twice as much or more than a normal battery...even so called "MF" ones, especially for a big bike battery like your YTX12.

Update:

So I swapped the battery and my bike still couldn't start. Apparently someone faced a similar issue in the Ninja 400 forum but no one came up with the solution, and a video of the exactly same scenario was posted:



ChatGPT is saying it's either a weak new battery or a starter on it's way out (which won't start unless the battery is perfectly charged). The latter seems a possibility given my circumstances. I will try to start my bike again and if it still fails, I will push start my bike and bring it to a mechanic.

Edit: Seems like there's a common issue about push starter for Ninja/Z400, where the contact gets rusty and requires cleaning. I might also look into that.

This post has been edited by JustForFun: Sep 30 2025, 07:37 PM

Maybe try to knock your starter relay? Replace if needed.

This post has been edited by RoofTopPrince: Oct 1 2025, 09:05 AM

--

This post has been edited by alexei: Oct 2 2025, 09:00 AM

Starts with the fuel pump priming sound as usual, and buzzes when you press the starter without cranking. I thought about doing the relay bypass to see if it really is the relay, but it is not easily reachable. Maybe this coming weekend if I can find the space to work on my bike (sucks to be living in a condo) ... if not I will just send it to the mechanic.

I have so far:
- Cleaned the starter: no use
- Rode the bike 20 minutes on highway to charge up the battery: no use as well

Strangely I managed to start the bike after 5 to 6 attempts this afternoon, and in the evening when I tried again it started without issue.

I will try it again on the weekend, if it still starts on first try, I will try to ride it around to fully charge up the battery and see how it goes. The only fear is actually riding all the way to the mechanic, only for the bike to behave perfectly again.

sounds like an intermittent starter relay issue

does the bike have voltmeter? for me, that would be the first thing I install on my bike with electric starter
- I've had stator recoiled on two of my bikes, so it's something I am religious about

I don't have it installed, as it requires removing the fairing, which I am not so comfortable with yet. I have however purchased a multimeter off Shopee which should be arriving tomorrow, then I can test the battery voltage.

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This post has been edited by alexei: Oct 3 2025, 09:01 PM

So my 12v voltmeter arrived and I tested the battery.

Bike off: 12.7
Engine idling: 13.8 ~ 14.2

Bike also started without issue after a full day of idling... strange.

I will monitor further and try to hold off the mechanic visit until it's December, when it's time to do my oil change and minor service, and have everything done altogether.

The little battery voltmeter I got was quite handy, small enough to fit right under the rear passenger seat compartment. It's the ANENG BT-171 for anyone interested.

the readings are good
but, for bikes, you gotta rev til 4~5k to get the actual reading

readings look normal.


Just check the voltage when you crank it. If it drops a lot it will indicating a weak battery. I still prefer a normal fast responding multimeter for this through.

Even if you have full voltage on the battery, an older battery might not give you enough amps to start the bike.

My garbage green tokiohama battery reads full but refuses to crank the bike after a few days of sitting. Im using a yuasa battery now and it cranks fine even after 2-3 weeks of sitting.


Also monitor the readings when riding. Sometimes a flaky rectifier might stop charging when it gets too hot.

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Oct 3 2025, 10:45 AM

another vote on yuasa.
my yuasa ytx14 is now 1.5 year old and still gives >300A CCA (it's rated at 200CCA).


i always tender charge/trickle charge the battery if i don't start the bike more than a week.
heck i always try to charge and keep it full weekly since lead acid don't like the charge to go <40%

using this imax multitype charger that i use for everything.

I installed this 2-way USB charger and use it to charger / tender my battery with a power bank.

Scooter with plenty difficult to remove fairing is pain for DIY therefore gone for this solution.

Is this connected directly to the battery (not switched off when the bike is off)?

https://www.serdangmotorcycle.com/product/k...splay-waterpoof

Yes. Had to connect direct to battery, and the ACC line.

When ACC is off, it will charge the bike's battery.

When ACC is on, it will provide power to your equipment via the USB port.

I found my Android phone charging the bike's battery when I first plug it in with ACC off

I bought from Taobao.
Also available on Aliexpress:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10050083314..._origin_prod%3A

thanks

I copied the link to show the wiring diagram, and did not check it was the correct link
there's a module, and uses ACC power to switch between modes, so it protects the battery

Correct about the ACC which is the main reason I pick this one over the more expensive Chigee brand.

Chigee brand pushing out high price items trying to be Xiaomi of motorbike accessories, but I found them to be overly marketed to push price up.

The two way charger of Chigee uses auto volt sensing and not the sure fire ACC to control the direction of charging.

Ini B6 barang sure kaki RC nihhhh.... heheh... every drone builder I know has one of these.

I also dumped the original Yuasa YTZ12s for the slightly bigger, cheaper Yuasa YTX14s. Asalkan muat bawah seat, aku sumbat je.

This post has been edited by ZZR-Pilot: Oct 21 2025, 05:07 PM

used to build drone. big drone.

can't find something better, and more cost effective than the B6. so still using it, can charge everything that i have.

Ini agricultural drone nih. I only built FPV drones pakai Betaflight je, just for shits & giggles. I'm out of it edy, between work & studies I got no time left for hobbies.

This post has been edited by ZZR-Pilot: Oct 21 2025, 05:24 PM

Just an update on my Dynavolt LFP battery. Started to see some voltage drop on start up. Still cranks good. Let's see how much longer this lasts. It's been like what? Only 6 months?

The NK seems to eat battery. No one can get batteries to last over 2 years. Too much active always on electronics I think.

Thanks for the input.

Was pondering if LFP can last longer than normal. Seems like same same.

that's the lithium ion? dafuq...