Example Wharfedale D300 more expensive than D320. RM1499 vs 1399. This is true for every brands. Why?
If the drivers are the same on both, it's just the added "angle" of the height speakers. It meant you can just mount it flat on your walls without buying a mount, that could also involve drilling into the standard bookshelf speakers. It's cosmetic "tax" more than functional.
It's like how razors for women are more expensive than men, even though it works the same.
that is if you assume it has the normal crossover mode (like any other bookshelf speaker). can we assume that if it doesn't have the Dolby branding, it doesn't have the upfiring/reflection crossover? since it doesn't have, why manufacturers still claim it can be placed on top of another speaker and use in upfiring/reflection mode?
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Does ATMOS require a special ATMOS ready speaker to work?
Speaker designed for Atmos application are just normal speakers that have angled cabinets.
There is nothing special about the Atmos speaker drivers, any loudspeaker can be used for Atmos channel application provided it can be mounted in the appropriate location.
What does the Atmos switch do?
Some Atmos speakers will have an "Atmos" switch (like the one on the RP-500SA II). This switch just cuts the low frequencies to be outputted from this speaker - this is advised to be switched on when the speaker is used in the 2nd position - up-firing. Lower frequencies are not as directional as the higher and will not bounce well from the ceiling therefore it isn't necessary to send them to the speaker.
So if the upfiring speakers don't have the switch, they just output the full range that they can handle.
For any surround setup, you need good front speakers and a powered subwoofer. You can live without the powered subwoofer but you will feel the sound is lacking with certain content. Not just movies but music as well. If you analyze the surround content (you can open it using Audacity or any DAW), you can see that sometimes the LFE channel is being used to provide that bass kick; that sound effect exist only there.
Front speakers, even floorstanding ones with tweeters, mids and woofer, don't get below the 20-30 Hz level. The receiver will take those frequencies and gives it to the subwoofer. Adding the height speakers (DTS-X also uses these speakers) doesn't change this. Any low frequencies are still being handled by the subwoofer, as set on the receiver. So coming back to that Klipsch speaker, even if you forgot to switch to the Atmos position, you'd still be fine as long as you have a sub.
Any sound output that comes out of the receiver is "dumb". All 7.2.2/4/6 channels are analog signals. The processing is done by the receiver. When you use that calibration mic that comes with your receiver, the receiver uses that data to understand what condition the room it is in - the speaker placements, the room size and where you sit, for example. Using that data, it applies signal processing to hopefully give you a better sound, like you're in a concert venue or whatnot.
The newer receivers can know how loud your speakers can get and if they are lacking certain frequencies, and correct those anomalies. All of this while making the system user friendly.
So coming back to your original question, yes Wharfedale is forcing you the Dolby tax without the Klipsch low-freq switch.
If you want a "cheaper" Atmos setup, watch this video as a guide.
We can't get those prices since we got the Malaysia tax, but it'd definitely be cheaper. Techno Dad is a professional Dolby Atmos mixer.
Onkyo this model I saw Audio Science Review, got bad design power limiting...
I found the forum on Audio Science Review.
In the last page, as of today, somebody said
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I am very happy with my 5.1.4 setup based on the Integra version of this AVR (DRX 3.4).
The only caveat, is that it can get unhappy driving "difficult" 4 ohm speakers. (which is why I use external amps for L/C/R and why I chose the Integra rather than the Onkyo, as it has pre-outs so it can be paired with external amps - I run the fronts externally and surrounds and heights using the internal amps)
If your speakers of choice are 8ohm or 6ohm nominal - it would be an excellent choice.
The Klipsch Reference Theater Pack is 8 ohms. So as suggested by Techno Dad, it's fine. Of course, you can always find another 9.2 model.
Techno Dad's suggestion with the Klipsch is for a 5.2.4.
Here's the Sony CS5 bookshelf speakers. RM700 a pair. 5 pairs is RM3,500 which gives you 10 speakers. Get a 10" powered subwoofer for around RM2,000, you have 5.1.4 setup.
For the Onkyo receiver (or any other 5.2.4 receiver) from the UK/US, you can try freight forwarding companies.
Hmm you need to bear in mind although nominal impedance is 8 ohm, often the speaker will have impedance dip to 4 ohm or even lower at certain frequency, it's unavoidable. Best to skip this fragile AVR,
I've got no interest in this receiver nor do I work in the CE industry.
Yes, impedance can dip. But that's why the NR-7100 has as ASR calls it, a "limp" mode which can be reset by physically unplugging the receiver.
But if you look at Page 9 of the ASR forum (and page 10), you can read how while the original poster did a good job at reviewing, it's not audio content - they were test tones. And played loud and long. Normal people don't do that. They listen to music and watch movies.
ASR users suggested beefier receivers costs 3 times as much or more that can provide more power. But why would you want that when your use case and budget doesn't match?
You can build a vacuum cleaner so powerful, it can suck the paint off the wall. But why would you build that? Which househusbands are demanding that much power?
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the last post at ASR thread saying the power limit will start triggered at 61c, probably need to add AVR external fan to maintain the healthy state...
61°C is pretty low. It could be that the user placed the receiver in a non-well ventilated space.
Rule of thumb of audio: If your ear drums feel pain because of what you are hearing, turn down the volume knob. It's too loud. You'll damage your hearing, your audio equipment and your relationship with your neighbor.
Also a rule of thumb: If people are complaining that it's too loud but you can hardly hear anything, either your ears are plugged or you already lost your hearing.
How loud do you watch your movies? 0dB reference level? -10dB? -20dB? I know there are people who think -20dB is already too loud.
It depends on the content. -15 to -20dB are good for Youtube and audio, including multichannel PCM and DSD. -5 to -10 are good for most movies.
There are however some movies that are mixed so low yet somehow they are technically Dolby-correct specced, that you'd have to get it to 0 dB just to hear the dialog. This also applies to Dolby Atmos music on Tidal.