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 Suzuki Gixxer 250 or 2nd Hand Yamaha MT-25

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TSrenegadeofficer89
post Apr 4 2024, 02:59 AM, updated 2y ago

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See Title.

I'm planning to get a 250cc bike, and I boiled everything down to either the Gixxer 250 (and V-Strom 250 SX, if that actually comes out here...) or a 2nd hand MT-25. Budget is under 20k, if there's any non-WFMoto bike recommendations, it's also acceptable. I plan on using it as a daily driver, I need to know reviews of:


- Longevity
- Ease of repair
- Spare part availability (this probably the MT-25 would win easily, but who knows)
- ease of maneuver (to slip between traffic in KL)
- other comments


Anyone with any suggestions, review or thoughts can put them in, anything is acceptable!
wat de....?!
post Apr 4 2024, 10:09 AM

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Gixxer handle bar vibration is quite a downside for this single cylinder bike, also not sure if you would enjoy the ride in the long run. Also note that Gixxer is oil-cooled.

MT25 is smoother as compared to Gixxer.

I owned an MT25 and test rode the Gixxer on public road. Would put my vote to MT25 anytime.

In terms of maintenance, both bikes not much difference as you can easily find workshops & spare parts for both.

For handling, both are also pretty similar. Can easily slip between traffic.
donatelo
post Apr 4 2024, 04:56 PM

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Yamaha MT-25 spare parts or accessories would be easy to get compared to other makers, but the reliability of modern-day Yamaha is not guaranteed. Anyway, I also just booked an MT25 to replace my Y15ZR for daily use.
Patent
post Apr 4 2024, 10:13 PM

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mt-25 is definitely better.. although longevity might have some issue similar to r25
just need to google it or ask around at their fb group
jaycee1
post Apr 5 2024, 10:45 AM

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Mt25 definately the more refined of the 2 bikes. More powerful and less vibration due to bing a twin.

Honestly the only interesting thing about the gixxer250 is the price. Don't expect Japanese quality for a bike coming out from India...but it is a simpler, lighter bike...being oil cooled single instead of water cooled twin.
acid_head
post Apr 12 2024, 02:45 AM

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QUOTE(jaycee1 @ Apr 5 2024, 10:45 AM)
Mt25 definately the more refined of the 2 bikes. More powerful and less vibration due to bing a twin.

Honestly the only interesting thing about the gixxer250 is the price. Don't expect Japanese quality for a bike coming out from India...but it is a simpler, lighter bike...being oil cooled single instead of water cooled twin.
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oil cooled will tend to overheat if stuck or ride slowly in the traffic?
jaycee1
post Apr 12 2024, 11:00 AM

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QUOTE(acid_head @ Apr 12 2024, 02:45 AM)
oil cooled will tend to overheat if stuck or ride slowly in the traffic?
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It should not. Unlike the older air/oil cooled bikes...the Suzuki's oil cooled bikes has a fan attached to the oil radiator. Theoretical it should be no different to a water cool setup. It's a simpler cost reduction setup. The only cost implication is you might need more oil per oil change compared to other 200-250cc single cyc bikes. But less than a twin.

As this is an Indian bike, scour the Indian forums for the bike for review/problems. And as for all Indian made bikes, the gearing is typically setup for acceleration and not top speed. So your highway travel speeds will be at a very vibey high rpm. Same issues with the Pulsars and Dominars.
ilovemotosikals2
post Apr 13 2024, 03:02 AM

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QUOTE(jaycee1 @ Apr 12 2024, 11:00 AM)
It should not. Unlike the older air/oil cooled bikes...the Suzuki's oil cooled bikes has a fan attached to the oil radiator. Theoretical it should be no different to a water cool setup. It's a simpler cost reduction setup. The only cost implication is you might need more oil per oil change compared to other 200-250cc single cyc bikes. But less than a twin.

As this is an Indian bike, scour the Indian forums for the bike for review/problems. And as for all Indian made bikes, the gearing is typically setup for acceleration and not top speed. So your highway travel speeds will be at a very vibey high rpm. Same issues with the Pulsars and Dominars.
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People tend to forget that they can downsize their sprockets to lower the rpm for more comfortable highway cruising regardless of bikes
jaycee1
post Apr 13 2024, 07:33 AM

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QUOTE(ilovemotosikals2 @ Apr 13 2024, 03:02 AM)
People tend to forget that they can downsize their sprockets to lower the rpm for more comfortable highway cruising regardless of bikes
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Not forget.

I'm running 3 tooth down on my dominar. But the gear ratio spread isn't perfect. Changing final drive changes everything, what you want is a taller 5th and 6th.
acid_head
post Apr 14 2024, 09:24 AM

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QUOTE(jaycee1 @ Apr 12 2024, 11:00 AM)
It should not. Unlike the older air/oil cooled bikes...the Suzuki's oil cooled bikes has a fan attached to the oil radiator. Theoretical it should be no different to a water cool setup. It's a simpler cost reduction setup. The only cost implication is you might need more oil per oil change compared to other 200-250cc single cyc bikes. But less than a twin.

As this is an Indian bike, scour the Indian forums for the bike for review/problems. And as for all Indian made bikes, the gearing is typically setup for acceleration and not top speed. So your highway travel speeds will be at a very vibey high rpm. Same issues with the Pulsars and Dominars.
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Thanks to the info.
One thing about the drawback is this bike don't have slipper clutch. Is that slipper clutch really functioning under downshift at slow speed, let say 70kph?

jaycee1
post Apr 14 2024, 01:25 PM

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QUOTE(acid_head @ Apr 14 2024, 09:24 AM)
Thanks to the info.
One thing about the drawback is this bike don't have slipper clutch. Is that slipper clutch really functioning under downshift at slow speed, let say 70kph?
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Slipper clutch is one of those things that are nice to have but not entirely necessary. There isn't that much engine braking on a low compression small single anyway. It just helps with novice riders not used to a clutch bike and lacks finesse with clutch play, rev matching and shift timing....in fact, as the same for other safety items like ABS, TC, actually impede learning. But I get it. It's good to have it than not as extra safety net.

Both my bikes have slipper clutches, and yes, you can still lock the rear wheels up if you try. So it's not a 100% full proof thing. Better to learn how to down shift properly.

On bigger bikes, the slipper clutch does help as it reduces clutch pull effort and mitigate poor downshifting due to significantly more engine braking on larger cc bikes.
alexei
post Apr 14 2024, 08:31 PM

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two cylinder better
just look at Z250SL vs the Z250 twin...
acid_head
post Apr 14 2024, 09:08 PM

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QUOTE(jaycee1 @ Apr 14 2024, 01:25 PM)
Slipper clutch is one of those things that are nice to have but not entirely necessary. There isn't that much engine braking on a low compression small single anyway.  It just helps with novice riders not used to a clutch bike and lacks finesse with clutch play, rev matching and shift timing....in fact, as the same for other safety items like ABS, TC, actually impede learning. But I get it. It's good to have it than not as extra safety net.

Both my bikes have slipper clutches, and yes, you can still lock the rear wheels up if you try. So it's not a 100% full proof thing. Better to learn how to down shift properly.

On bigger bikes, the slipper clutch does help as it reduces clutch pull effort and mitigate poor downshifting due to significantly more engine braking on larger cc bikes.
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How big cc is consider bigger bike? Like 500cc and above? or larger hp?
Sorry I'm a newbie currently still studying on bike and also looking a begineer bike to start the bike journey.
jaycee1
post Apr 15 2024, 10:28 AM

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QUOTE(acid_head @ Apr 14 2024, 09:08 PM)
How big cc is consider bigger bike? Like 500cc and above? or larger hp?
Sorry I'm a newbie currently still studying on bike and also looking a begineer bike to start the bike journey.
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I would consider something with more than 1 cyc that puts out over 50hp as a "bigger bike"

Most beginners can usually start at the 400cc class up to 650 (not supersport) class with no issues. That class usually have enough GO to keep you entertained for a longer time than say something in the 250s.
There is a huge jump next to the 800s when you are talking about power characteristics.

That said, better to start with something lighter and smaller. Trying to manhandle a tall and heavy bike makes learning harder as you would be more aversive to trying harder low speed maneuvers, which is the most important beginner skill to master next to defensive riding.


with respect to the slipper clutch on bigger bikes, the clutches on real big bikes with 100hp or more are usually stiffer to handle the high power, and thus the assist clutch helps to lower the clutch effort. Bigger high compression motors have much higher engine braking, increasing the risk of rear lockup on a poorly executed downshift.

The slipper clutch is designed to slip on poorly executed downshifts, and lower general clutch lever effort. The full name is Slipper and Assist Clutch...pretty descriptive in itself.

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Apr 15 2024, 10:33 AM
acid_head
post Apr 17 2024, 07:23 AM

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QUOTE(jaycee1 @ Apr 15 2024, 10:28 AM)
I would consider something with more than 1 cyc that puts out over 50hp as a "bigger bike"

Most beginners can usually start at the 400cc class up to 650 (not supersport) class with no issues. That class usually have enough GO to keep you entertained for a longer time than say something in the 250s.
There is a huge jump next to the 800s when you are talking about power characteristics.

That said, better to start with something lighter and smaller. Trying to manhandle a tall and heavy bike makes learning harder as you would be more aversive to trying harder low speed maneuvers, which is the most important beginner skill to master next to defensive riding.
with respect to the slipper clutch on bigger bikes, the clutches on real big bikes with 100hp or more are usually stiffer to handle the high power, and thus the assist clutch helps to lower the clutch effort. Bigger high compression motors have much higher engine braking, increasing the risk of rear lockup on a poorly executed downshift.

The slipper clutch is designed to slip on poorly executed downshifts, and lower general clutch lever effort. The full name is Slipper and Assist Clutch...pretty descriptive in itself.
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Is Dominar 400 a good bike to start as a beginner? I saw your post it seems quite reliable and easy to maintain I expect? Most important it is cheap and I won't feel sorry if i Jatuh bodoh.

Well I don't have much free time to ride as I have a very young kid and most of my time have been engaged with work and family, but biking is part of my hobby thar I have been chasing since during my young time. Hence, I dont want spend too much on bike.

This post has been edited by acid_head: Apr 17 2024, 07:28 AM
jaycee1
post Apr 17 2024, 10:00 AM

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QUOTE(acid_head @ Apr 17 2024, 07:23 AM)
Is Dominar 400 a good bike to start as a beginner? I saw your post it seems quite reliable and easy to maintain I expect? Most important it is cheap and I won't feel sorry if i Jatuh bodoh.

Well I don't have much free time to ride as I have a very young kid and most of my time have been engaged with work and family, but biking is part of my hobby thar I have been chasing since during my young time. Hence, I dont want spend too much on bike.
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For the price/performance, the D4 is hard bike to beat. It is not the easiest bike to ride though, due to its long wheelbase and weight. It is as big as most 650cc bikes if not bigger. It's a good all around bike, and the weight and wheelbase makes for a fairly good and stable highway bike if you plan to ride up to 130kmh. Higher speeds on the D4 is less comfortable due to vibration.

It is however quite a robust bike if you plan on learning on it. Mine survived over 100 drops with very very minimal damage...and what needs to be replaced are cheap and easily sourced from shopee.

If you are just starting out, and want a B full bike, a used ER6n/f and Dominar is a good starting point. Ride it a year or 2, before upgrading. You won't loose much on depreciation.

Reliability is a mixed bag. Some report reliability issues and some like mine is relatively trouble free despite the abuse and high mileage (70k km). If buying used, just find an old V1 facelift like mine (gold wheels, black frame) and avoid the newer UG. The V1 seems more reliable and has a more usable powerband for city use. The UG has more power but higher up the rev range...but you have to live with the vibration of high rpm use.

Common issues with the D4 are fork seals, headstock bearings and rear brakes difficult to bleed properly. Relatively minor issues. But on the flip side, for the price, you get a 400 class engine, ABS and a slipper clutch and cheap.replacement parts when do break it. Great things for a beginner.

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Apr 17 2024, 10:06 AM
ilovemotosikals2
post Apr 17 2024, 11:50 AM

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QUOTE(jaycee1 @ Apr 17 2024, 10:00 AM)
For the price/performance, the D4 is hard bike to beat. It is not the easiest bike to ride though, due to its long wheelbase and weight. It is as big as most 650cc bikes if not bigger. It's a good all around bike, and the weight and wheelbase makes for a fairly good and stable highway bike if you plan to ride up to 130kmh. Higher speeds on the D4 is less comfortable due to vibration.

It is however quite a robust bike if you plan on learning on it. Mine survived over 100 drops with very very minimal damage...and what needs to be replaced are cheap and easily sourced from shopee.

If you are just starting out, and want a B full bike, a used ER6n/f and Dominar is a good starting point. Ride it a year or 2, before upgrading. You won't loose much on depreciation.

Reliability is a mixed bag. Some report reliability issues and some like mine is relatively trouble free despite the abuse and high mileage (70k km). If buying used, just find an old V1 facelift like mine (gold wheels, black frame) and avoid the newer UG. The V1 seems more reliable and has a more usable powerband for city use. The UG has more power but higher up the rev range...but you have to live with the vibration of high rpm use.

Common issues with the D4 are fork seals, headstock bearings and rear brakes difficult to bleed properly. Relatively minor issues. But on the flip side, for the price, you get a 400 class engine, ABS and a slipper clutch and cheap.replacement parts when do break it. Great things for a beginner.
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Apparently the new UG models with the USD forks fixes the fork seals issues with 5HP more. Not to mention it's essentially a KTM 390 engine.
acid_head
post Apr 19 2024, 09:54 PM

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QUOTE(jaycee1 @ Apr 17 2024, 10:00 AM)
For the price/performance, the D4 is hard bike to beat. It is not the easiest bike to ride though, due to its long wheelbase and weight. It is as big as most 650cc bikes if not bigger. It's a good all around bike, and the weight and wheelbase makes for a fairly good and stable highway bike if you plan to ride up to 130kmh. Higher speeds on the D4 is less comfortable due to vibration.

It is however quite a robust bike if you plan on learning on it. Mine survived over 100 drops with very very minimal damage...and what needs to be replaced are cheap and easily sourced from shopee.

If you are just starting out, and want a B full bike, a used ER6n/f and Dominar is a good starting point. Ride it a year or 2, before upgrading. You won't loose much on depreciation.

Reliability is a mixed bag. Some report reliability issues and some like mine is relatively trouble free despite the abuse and high mileage (70k km). If buying used, just find an old V1 facelift like mine (gold wheels, black frame) and avoid the newer UG. The V1 seems more reliable and has a more usable powerband for city use. The UG has more power but higher up the rev range...but you have to live with the vibration of high rpm use.

Common issues with the D4 are fork seals, headstock bearings and rear brakes difficult to bleed properly. Relatively minor issues. But on the flip side, for the price, you get a 400 class engine, ABS and a slipper clutch and cheap.replacement parts when do break it. Great things for a beginner.
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Thanks for the comprehensive information. Yes indeed I'm looking a cheap entry level big bike, since I expected myself to jatuh bodoh for countless time, plus also I have no time to ride it. Probably ride about 100km a week or less.

Btw, speaking the V1 facelift, as long is gold wheel is the facelift model? How to really differentiate the facelift from appearance? I only know the V2 is is the front brake caliper is on left side and twin muffler tip.

There is no way to solve the fork seal leaking issue until now? what is the headstock bearing?
ilovemotosikals2
post Apr 20 2024, 12:40 PM

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QUOTE(acid_head @ Apr 19 2024, 09:54 PM)
Thanks for the comprehensive information. Yes indeed I'm looking a cheap entry level big bike, since I expected myself to jatuh bodoh for countless time, plus also I have no time to ride it. Probably ride about 100km a week or less.

Btw, speaking the V1 facelift, as long is gold wheel is the facelift model? How to really differentiate the facelift from appearance? I only know the V2 is is the front brake caliper is on left side and twin muffler tip.

There is no way to solve the fork seal leaking issue until now? what is the headstock bearing?
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Easiest way is to look for the USD fork. Read through the whole thread by Vi Merkz at Modenas/Bajaj Pulsar RS/NS200 and Dominar 400, I'm an Owner and a Foreman, AMA here!! . He owns a workshop that works on D400 mainly and shares how to rectify the common issues including replacing the seals with another brand.
jaycee1
post Apr 21 2024, 04:22 PM

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QUOTE(acid_head @ Apr 19 2024, 09:54 PM)
Thanks for the comprehensive information. Yes indeed I'm looking a cheap entry level big bike, since I expected myself to jatuh bodoh for countless time, plus also I have no time to ride it. Probably ride about 100km a week or less.

Btw, speaking the V1 facelift, as long is gold wheel is the facelift model? How to really differentiate the facelift from appearance? I only know the V2 is is the front brake caliper is on left side and twin muffler tip.

There is no way to solve the fork seal leaking issue until now? what is the headstock bearing?
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V1 and v2 facelift is mostly cosmetic.

The facelift (2019 ) has black engine case and frame, gold wheels. Original V1 has grey frame and bronze engine covers.
Some late model facelift 2020 models had factory included Givi rear pannier and rack with 3 boxes as a promotion pack on EoL models.

UG (v2 upgrade) has
USD forks
Radial front brake caliper
Upgraded DOHC engine with more power (+5hp but higher up the rev range)
Revised LCD display with gear indicator on sub panel
Improved mirrors
New dual outlet exhaust
Some cosmetic finishes like engine covers and minor details.
Slightly heavier by 3kg.

What you can do is also have a look to see if there are any new old year end stock with a discount or lightly used D400 adventure model available. They come with
Larger Windshield
Rear rack and saddle stays
Larger crash bar
Hand guards
And some cosmetic add ones.




As someone mentioned, read the modenas pulsar /. Dominar thread . All pertinent info is there. I vouch for Jay@vi Motorworkz. All the jobs on the bike not done by myself is done there by his staff. Perhaps you can stop by his shop and have a chat and maybe he might know someone that wants to sell one. They open late after 11am and open late, as well as Saturday and Sunday.


gck
post Apr 23 2024, 10:48 AM

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i have been waiting for Vstorm 250 but end up getting a used MT25 year 2023 June, mileage 3000km for RM15,500. Did an oil change and it drastically improve the smoothness and gear change over old engine oil. my front fork leak at 4000km mark, it was replaced FOC and HL Yamaha. get MT25 used bike, plenty going around and low mileage too.

 

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