yalor
geng lerrr

miri 2 hour flight je mar
left bout 2
reached bout 4

crap lar bro
if they really 1 2 make noise rite...
u just go back....take out the meter or wutever...then go to another sc
how they going to know?
all these meters no need cut anything wut

err guys...ya'l do realize that welding anneals the metal rite?
the car is made from pressed sheet metal of a certain class and a certain strength n hardness (not exactly sure which class tho)
but once you heat it up by welding n let it cool, it loses its properties and softens... (not to mention the heat destroys the antirust layer and thus promotes rusting in that area)
i dont think doing any of the above would be advisable anywhere on the car...let alone a region exposed to major stress

hahaha
u try piss off a croc nextime n c wen he chase u if he can catch u onot
n if u come back here n msg us then we'll know the answer

dont use grease
it will damage the belt material
use an old bar of soap (just touch it against each side of the belt)
it will solve your prob for a month or so

or you can use the custom silicon spray for belts (this is the more high class expensive solution)

both oso solve the prob wan

agree on the sport rims
but would rather have a normal ori saga muffler

nope
all these were added just for looks n all
proton din do any "modifications" or "tuning" for better performance as they claimed

err...i think its vice versa

the belt is made from rubber and nylon reinforcing fibers
grease reacts with the vulcanized rubber breaking down the chains formed in this process
this reduces the strength of the rubber and starts to cause cracking
once there are cracks the grease gets into the cracks and comes in contact with the reinforcing fibers
this will cause the fiber strands to expand and further worsen the cracking and compromise the strength of the belt
the grease in the fibers will also slowly over time cause the bonding between the fiber and the rubber to fail as the rubber that is currently bonded to the fibers begin to deteriorate

add on: grease and rubber rarely go well together unless the rubber is specifically designed to withstand exposure to grease and other oils
unfortunately, belts do not fall under that category

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Nov 1 2007, 11:15 PM

if anything, it should increase fc
but at the same time increase power marginally
the bullet has very little air flow resistance compared to a normal box
this will reduce the back pressure on the exhaust stroke which is caused by the air flowing through the exhaust pipe and being impeded by the box's dampers
less back pressure means the exhaust gas will flow out faster and more air can be sucked into the combustion chamber
more air being sucked into the combustion chamber means more fuel will get sucked in also
this will translate into more power since more fuel is combusting
but then this will also result in a slightly higher fc

im not saying it wont work
it most definitely will
the grease will lubricate the belt's movements on the pulley
so basically rather than vibrating (at a very high frequency) when running over the pulley,...the grease will help the belt to slip thus eliminating the sound
all i suggested were two alternatives which are non-destructive to the belt's material
up to ya'll to choose

thats a good question
iinm a bullet works like a gun's silencer
expansion of sound waves makes then lose energy
so...iinm...basically....nothing...
hahaha
but then again...i could be wrong...just basing it on theory

there is such a thing in the industry know as FS...which is factor of safety
these things are over-designed
anything that involves humans which might pose a safety issue to them if it fails usually has a safety factor of minimum 2.5
that means that if the belt is meant to be changed at 100k,...it is designed to last until 250k...
this is so to take into account any unforeseen occurrences that might degrade the belt during its normal operation
so even if it halves the life of the belt,...it will still last to its scheduled change at 100k

---

Added on November 2, 2007, 12:03 amerr...i flew mas the other day
same case
i think its the plane they are using
was is a 737-200?

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Nov 2 2007, 12:03 AM

err...you should leave the holes in the beams open
those holes are there for ventilation
if water gets in and all is closed (and it will get in...thats y the whole car can drain...all the beams...under the car...the channels forming the door sill...in the bonnet...even the doors have drainage holes....), water vapor will be trapped inside n cant dry out that fast
and as im sure u all know...water n iron dont exactly make a good team
the engine will most prolly be more silent compared to using the triangular pieces
but then the life of the metal will be compromised

and btw...its not sound waves we are trying to stop from getting out when we install this sound insulation as we call it
it is actually damping material
we are basically trying to dampen the vibration of the metal surface in question
not stop sound waves from penetrating it (which is impossible as the metal is a solid and sound waves are merely vibrating air particles)

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Nov 3 2007, 12:07 AM

and as we were talking about water in the bonnet justnow...doors were also mentioned
if you are not aware of just how much water comes into the door during a heavy rain,...try taking off the plastic shell door cover and leave the plastic sheet on...
then get sum1 to hose the window down at full flow
(this is only a fraction of what nature can throw at your car mind you)
and then see how much water actually flows through your door

insuflex is a rubber material (granted it is synthetic)
and i am also aware that it is a closed cell system (meaning its not a sponge)
but try dipping it in water for a few minutes then take it out
all of the surface cells (which are open on the surface) will be holding water
also, when you stick it to your door,...the inside is going to be oily as there is antirust grease which they have sprayed on the inside of the door
yes, i know it can be cleaned off
but it will never be 100% oil free unless you use petrol (which you should never do as it will damage the paint...)
so the glue u are using to glue the insuflex into place will leave cavities here n there...
i understand that you will try your very best to get it to stick all over
but it can never be a 100% job
these cavities will in turn retain water when it rains and draining will be much slower
and as mentioned above, water n metal dont make good friends
also, the insuflex will accumulate ALOT of dirt over time as the surface is not smooth
presence of dirt also accelerates the degradation of metal very significantly

that is why tar sheets are always used when it comes to areas that are exposed to water
tar is a petroleum based material and thus will not be adversely affected in any significant way by the oil film left by the antirust coating which you have cleaned off

therefore, i strongly advise against the use of insuflex/superlon to insulate inside the door cavity

hmm...k&n need to oil again after wash rite?
the only way that a filter can increase efficiency is by reducing the resistance to the airflow of the intake manifold
this in turn would mean either a thinner membrane, or bigger holes in the filter membrane
either way, the bottom line is the same...more dust particles get into the engine

these kind of filters evolved from racing and rally cars
i do admit that they improve performance
but as the saying goes....theres no such thing as a free lunch
there is always a compromise somewhere

in this case, its in the life of the engine
more particulate entering into the combustion chamber wears out parts faster (think sand paper)

the vac gauge does not influence the operation of the engine's system in any way therefore it will last as long as it can as long as it is properly taken care of
you can monitor how much you press and thus make sure that you are not merely dumping unburnt hydrocarbons into the atmosphere
this is especially important for underpowered cars like the iswara lmst as it is easy to overpress when it comes to underpowered cars

---

Added on November 3, 2007, 12:43 amerr...arent we then not addressing the real problem at hand?
the doors sound 'tinny' (like milo tin) coz the outer door panel vibrates and has no damping on it
that is the main source of the sound from the doors
even if you insulate the plastic panel inside, the metal outer panel is still vibrating
this vibration transfers to the rest of the car body through the door links and will thus increase the overall cabin noise

its better to try and stop the problem at the source...not just cover it up

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Nov 3 2007, 12:45 AM

hahaha
its not really a 'way of thinking'
that would imply that there is no basis to it and its all just my preference


anywayz...
regarding the k&n air filter
is this the type that needs to re-oil after use?
or is it just wash with water n then air dry it n can terus put back into the filter box?
whats the price of it?
how long can we use it?
thanks for the info

20k?
wow
that would be a heck of alot of dirt trapped inside d rite?
flow not affected mer?...
how much is the filter?
and the cleaner kit?

this is not about sales
this is for general info je
i think i'll be sticking with the normal filter nywayz...
so kevin cant send u warning
dun worry

u mean like pod filter?

ooo...hmm...
just wondering...
how can it filter better than a normal fiber filter and yet still allow better air flow?
these seem to be contradictory characteristics


p.s. normal air filter should be changed before the performance becomes abnormal....i.e. preventive maintenance

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Nov 3 2007, 01:35 AM